What is the normal distribution of strength in each digit?
I have always found anything other than chisel, half crimp and to an extent 3 finger drag really tweaky/ horrible feeling. Will try using the weights and sling to work on pinky and ring fingers.
I've now managed to build a board (steep) and am wondering how to mix up the board/fingerboard sessions.
Quote from: shark on April 10, 2020, 12:15:38 pmWhat is the normal distribution of strength in each digit?I actually tested this recently, so here's an N=1 dataset for you: 14-16-12-10 kgs, using first pad on a sling.
People doing individual finger scores - can you actually try to max on anything other than middle finger mono? I'm way too tweaky to go anywhere near max on ring, index or pinky. I'm 90% sure I'd break before I failed...
People doing individual finger scores - can you actually try to max on anything other than middle finger mono?
When hanging one armed, should we be facing forwards or to the side?
Repeaters are often said to be a better place to start, but, does no one else find them much more challenging to maintain good form? Personally, I think it might be wise to to 6secs on, 4 off and only do 5 reps per set. With 7:3 x5 I find I'm sloppy by the end and it always feels risky.
repeaters near my limit
Crimpd app is good if you want to follow predefined timings, but what's everyone fav timer for custom stuff?