Guess he thinks climbers should be able to do more.
Lots of useful stuff on this thread, thanks!Whenever I've done some fingerboarding (which isn't much) I've only ever bothered that much with what I thought was a 'normal' grip and a three finger drag. It turns out my normal grip is to always chisel, which I can comfortably use to hang for 10 seconds on a 10mm edge (both arms at bw) - but after reading this and some other material it seems a half crimp is what I should be using but I've found I can barely engage a half crimp on a 20mm edge let alone a 10mm (both arms at bw). Does this mean I just have weak index fingers and I should spend some time training my half crimp on bigger edges?
Crossfit pull-ups aren’t pull ups
That weights section is heavily caveated and I guess it just goes to show the variety in physical strength in elite level climbers. To take 2 examples who have both climbed 8C this year, I bet Matt Fultz is fullstekur for all of the strength ones and Eliot Stephens may not get Halfstekur on any of them! For me this is one of the beauties of climbing.
I similarly re trained to half crimp over the last 18 months. It’s mainly just adjustment for me - getting used to it and your fingers getting comfortable in the different position.
So it’s even better to do more weight on a bigger edge than less weight on a smaller edge, even if you’re training for really small edges?
Yeah. The study – it’s basically the only fingerboard study we have out there – they split two groups and one group trained more weight from a larger edge and the other one less weight from a smaller edge and then they brought them back to test them on the smaller edge. The group that trained more weight from a larger edge performed better on the small edge than the group that trained less weight on the small edge.
Very vital question: when training 3 fingers (front 3 or back 3) what do you do with the other finger. Bend it or keep it straight???
Quote from: tomtom on April 12, 2020, 05:30:46 pmI similarly re trained to half crimp over the last 18 months. It’s mainly just adjustment for me - getting used to it and your fingers getting comfortable in the different position.+1Also couldn’t hang a 20mm Edge with a strict half crimp. Neither could Mina. It felt so uncomfortable and plain weird and inspired me to design an ergonomic hold where all the fingers could be at the same joint angle.
Is 10 good enough or 20.