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Power Club 523 16th-22nd March 2020 (Read 6366 times)

HarryBD

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Weird one and feel irresponsible about the driving I did over the weekend. Glad I didn't go to Dib Scar on Sunday as I originally intended (not that I want to avoid meeting you spidermonkey but circumstances and that).

M - At work. Spent the evening wondering what work from home would look like for weeks
T - Nipped up to Ilkley buckstones and pottered
W - Nipped up to Ilkley buckstones and pottered, led a circuit training session for my work colleagues over t'internet
T - Shipley glen, tried to avoid the crowds after being one of a few too many people near to Manson's wall. Did undercracker before decamping. Spent some time on the slab below Parker - eventually got the traverse prob - I found a cool but probably duff sequence and enjoyed it. L also seemed to enjoy the stuff there.
F - Virtual pub with work colleagues which was good fun - played linkee which works well over a group call
S - Walk at Ilkley Moor with a friend - we kept our distance from each other but this was probably a bad idea. Had a wonderful time off the beaten track.
S - Sharp Haw and Flasby Fell with L - beautiful afternoon in the sun and out the wind looking across the dales. Forgot about the world for a few hours. Absolute bliss, I'll be savouring that for a while.

JohnM

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Quote
Do I remember correctly that you live in Innsbruck as well? (Me too, I don't usually post, but read on here quite a bit)
Did the police write down your name or anything, in case they see you again? I find it strange, that they stopped you, as going for a walk and  running alone/ with people that live in your house should still be aloud.
I go out running and cycling, without leaving the city-boarders, myself (as I can't run a lot due to old knee injuries) to keep sane, but so far I had no problems with the authorities.

Hi Lukas  :wave: Yeah I live in Innsbruck. Actually in Kranebitten but I am staying with my girlfriend in Wilten for the duration of the Ausgangssperre. They didn't take my name or address, just informed me that I was only allowed to leave the flat to go to the nearest supermarket, visit the doctor or take a short walk. I saw quite a lot of people jogging so I think they just randomly targeted us.

By the way, in case you were wondering, I am not the British guy in the local news who was stopped by police cycling on the closed Inn promenade, who then became abusive and aggressive towards the police who had to handcuff him and found that he was carrying various different IDs. Nice that some of my friends assumed it was me though  :lol:

Coops_13

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Agreed with the above that this has been a weird week. Last outdoor (or any) climbing for a while. US is a bit behind the UK in the whole closing the door on outdoor climbing but I think we're there now.

M: Home Workout. 300 core movements, 100 press-ups, stretching

T: Clear Creek Canyon - Mile 268 Boulders. Stopped by Mossman (cool V9) but dripping so went to the Mavericks boulder. Warmed up on Mavericks (highball V5 I did in May) then gave The North Shore V9 a few pulls. Large deadpoint move that I was close to making and not quite sticking. Moved on to 41st Street, v powerful boulder and v stiff at V7. Pieced the moves together and couldn't quite get the top. Tried from bottom and got through to the top but powered out on the lip. Couldn't get back there but psyched to return - after the virus / curve has been flattened

W: Home Workout. 300 core movements, 100 press-ups, stretching

T: Morrison - Black Hole. Deserted due to the snow, psyched it stays dry! Warmed up and finished off Lady Revlon V6. Then did Tendonitis Travers V5. Worked some of the moves on another eliminate, Death by Drowning V7 - keen for that next time. Finished by getting pumped trying Upper Wisdom (long traverse). Videos of the sends are on the Non-Quality Bouldering thread

F: 100 press-ups

S: 100 press-ups. 2 mile walk with pup around Red Rocks Trading Post Trail

S: Castlewood Canyon. Took wrong approach to the Punani boulder but got there eventually. Boulder we wanted to try was busy so went to look at The Ham V7. Hard and sharp - grim. Eventually Punani V7 was free. Tried the normal beta repeatedly and couldn't quite do it. Tried the beta with the two-finger pocket and it went, probably V6 this way... Got a vid but probably won't post until climbing outside is OK again.

Ordered a Beastmaker and a pull-up bar and purchased some wood, steel and a saw. Hope the BM arrives before any international shipping is banned... Our stay at home order starts this evening - I think I'm allowed to go to the local park (one block) to hang my portable fingerboard off a tree...

SA Chris

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I follow a few of the US climbing and skiing pages on FB, the way the news is being received over there is quite dismaying.

Coops_13

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I follow a few of the US climbing and skiing pages on FB, the way the news is being received over there is quite dismaying.
Yeah there was some to-ing and fro-ing of the community then the pros started promoting non-climbing. However even today someone I follow on IG posted to his stories saying that he's still climbing and unless they have a medical background, he doesn't want to hear from anyone. It is more of a selfish (capitalist) culture over here though I suppose.

Bradders

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Wasn't going to post this week but probably best to keep it going. Pretty terrible week really with everything going on in the world and a personal loss. Showing me the incredible value of being able to get out; miss it already.

M - Forest Rock. Thankfully no one there. Very drippy. Hasty warm up then did Anti-Hero short in a couple of goes (couldn't do the full thing due to the rail being soaked). Then onto Enchantress which was all dry. Bit anti-style this as I'm bad on undercuts. Spent ages working out a sequence, trying loads of things which all felt a bit desperate. Thought I'd have a go from the start and fell off the last move! Second go fell off halfway but pulled on immediately and went to the top. Third go dropped the last move again. Ran out of time then as had been taking big rests. Annoyingly on my second go heard a click in my right ring finger knuckle; think it might actually have dislocated slightly through weirdly angled pressure through it on an undercling. Felt pretty painful at various times in the following week but seems okay now.

T - nothing

W - nothing

T - Baildon Bank. Deserted apart from a few runners who kept their distance. Got stupid close on Pinch 32 sit. Did the stand first go, then from two moves in to the top immediately after. Best go got the pinch (crux of the stand) but couldn't quite close up on it and after trying to readjust a couple of times my heel popped off and I was down. Reckon if I'd closed up I'd have done it. Lots of goes and into the stand on most. Couple of times hit the hold again but not in control.

F - nothing

S - Simon's Seat. Picked somewhere remote but lots to go at. Lots of walkers and a few climbers but all kept at a very safe distance. Repeated Galaxy, then did Whaleback. Managed to flash Delta, then had a quick go on Toe-Fu. It'll go, but heart wasn't in it. Noticed instead an alternative start to Delta, pulling on with left hand in the Toe-Fu start hold and right on a small undercling, and slapping powerfully for the shelf. Took quite a few goes but did it eventually. Reckon it won't have been done before. Fair bit harder than Delta I think. Vid below; how flipping cool is that feature?!



Walked over to Lord's which was a mistake as the wind was howling. Uncertainty Principle looks super cool though, very keen if we ever get out of this mess. Back to Simon's and wandered around for a bit before heading home, just enjoying scrambling over rock and being out with the place to myself.

S - 6 mile local walk

gollum

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M - Bizarre day travelling back from Barcelona. Airport is eerily quiet with only a few flights out and all the shops shut except for one newsagent with a strict 2 people at any one time policy and most oddly the mobile phone shop. 
Flight delayed but finally get back to find the roads very quiet.

T - Just a walk around the block.

W - Another walk around the block.

T - Venture out to Brimham based on the NT statement encouraging visits to their outdoor sites. Do a few of the easier things on Jokers Wall and then Whisky Galore which takes a few goes. I must have done this problem dozens of times but not for well over ten years. Really neat problem.
See another team on Lovers Leap but nobody else climbing and when walking back there are a few families but really not many at all.

F - Nip to Hetchell and work on traverse which I fall off the last move a couple of times. Then do a few up problems.
There is a team there with a rope who are packing up when we arrive, other than that only see a couple of dog walkers.

S - Plans to go to Brimham are cancelled, as are plans to go to Almscliffe, Hetchell and West Vale as I read this forum and think about what the right thing to do is. Walk round the block.

S - Walk up to farm shop with Mrs B for some supplies. Decide potatoes are quite heavy.

A very odd week, with a lot of considering what I think is the right thing to do on a particular day. In retrospect, I’m still not sure either way about any of the things I did.

Bradders

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Rumble in the Jungle. Definitely not 7C with the better beta. Felt 7A or 7A+. More importantly it's got the most brilliant climbing on it. Properly unmissable. One of the best (that's a phrase that gets thrown around a lot but this really is).

No idea why Olly did it with his beta. Proper FA blinkers. Tom and I said 7B to each other on the way out when we did it, definitely harder for the short and top move felt pretty spicy. Felt a bit like Andy Brown's at Earl but with a slightly easier top move and a harder sequence to get to it.

Couldn't agree more that it's brilliant, and a great effort from Olly and Seb building the landing.

Footwork

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Rumble in the Jungle. Definitely not 7C with the better beta. Felt 7A or 7A+. More importantly it's got the most brilliant climbing on it. Properly unmissable. One of the best (that's a phrase that gets thrown around a lot but this really is).

No idea why Olly did it with his beta. Proper FA blinkers. Tom and I said 7B to each other on the way out when we did it, definitely harder for the short and top move felt pretty spicy. Felt a bit like Andy Brown's at Earl but with a slightly easier top move and a harder sequence to get to it.

Couldn't agree more that it's brilliant, and a great effort from Olly and Seb building the landing.

The FA blinkers are real. Will thought he was trying 7A+ at Adel crag once upon a long time ago. Was more like 6A if you just heaved yourself over the lip using you knees.

I definitely thought more 7A++ as it's a long way to the top from the last hold (you almost think you won't make it until you start gaining momentum) which we did dynamically but without a cut loose.

Talking of off the track gems, I did Phoenix Wall at Panorama a couple of weeks ago. One of the best slabs I've done. Are there any other really good slabs at 7B+ and harder in Yorkshire?

Bradders

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Talking of off the track gems, I did Phoenix Wall at Panorama a couple of weeks ago. One of the best slabs I've done. Are there any other really good slabs at 7B+ and harder in Yorkshire?

It's great isn't it. Isn't Yorkshire supposed to be the slab climbing capital of the UK?

Not that I've done any of them, but off the top of my head some hard Yorkshire slabs:

- Pebbledash
- Serious Sauntering
- The Doppler Effect
- To Be Is Not To Bolt
- Your Grace
- Your Majesty
- Psycho Direct
- Marrow Bone Jelly
- Terry
- Syrett's Saunter
- Scary Canary
- The Chieftain

Will Hunt

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I looked up at Pebbledash recently and thought it looked surprisingly all there. Would like a go at some point.

36chambers

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don't forget the classic Dreamland Sit.

Footwork

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No good slab has a sit start

tomtom

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No good slab has a sit start
Or a font start ;)

Andy F

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I know it's not in Yorkshire, but Mono block 7c+ at Pex is technically a slab.

 

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