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Power Club 523 16th-22nd March 2020 (Read 6306 times)

Will Hunt

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Power Club 523 16th-22nd March 2020
March 22, 2020, 10:09:58 pm
Last Friday I washed up my mug at work before leaving for a week's annual leave, wondering when I might next see my desk. I guessed it wouldn't be for a while.
And then the very weird week happened. What I got up to on Tuesday seems impossible and foolhardy now. I wonder what the next week will bring.

M - family walk at St Ives.

T - St Ives with Ben. Tried Gritty Shaker to no avail. Too hot and it's hard and weird. Got some beta later from people on the Instagram. Who knows when we'll try it out.
Bailed on Gritty and went to Hawkcliffe for Rumble in the Jungle. On arrival it looked wet, but we brushed it and the green just came off leaving dry rock. It was still a bit warm. Split a tip on the left hand crimp and gave up. Then suddenly the humidity dropped and Ben did it so I taped up and got it in a few more goes. Definitely not 7C with the better beta. Felt 7A or 7A+. More importantly it's got the most brilliant climbing on it. Properly unmissable. One of the best (that's a phrase that gets thrown around a lot but this really is).

W - Ancap session bludgeoning a pensioner to death with the last tin of chopped tomatoes in order to claim some 3-ply.

T - 30 minute run in the morning. Took it very easy because I despise running. Walk on Ilkley Moor with family.

F - Social distancing in Harewood House's gardens.

S -. Ilkley Rocky Valley. Warmed up in the back quarry which I've never climbed in. Did the Ilkley Bar Kid and a really hard 6C to its left. Moved on to Sweet Dreams and pulled on the holds. They don't feel too bad but I expect I need to be stronger. My heart wasn't really in it as I'd opened up my split tip during the warm up and the tape in my bag was on its last legs. Instead, tried A Crimson Tear. Which is putting your fingers into a ratty 1.5 digit pocket, foot on a foothold, and Frenching off the floor to try and catch a big pocket high up. This took 30 plus goes and I was getting my hand in the pocket a lot but always moving outwards too much to hang it. The lip of the pocket was a bit sharp and I was getting absolutely minced. Gore everywhere. But I was committed and sort of knew that this could be the last time on rock in a while. Eventually stacked my pads in a cheaty way and did it quickly (the only redeeming feature about the problem is the brilliant Font 6A+ you do to get to the top off the pocket). Came down, put the pads back in a reasonable formation and used the muscle memory from the successful cheating go to get up it in a few more attempts.
Absolutely futile to try and grade. It's in the book as 7C+ but the grade is changed massively by how thick your pads are, how firm the foam is, and how you arrange them, and thus also how tall you are. To me it felt like a knackier/more percentagey thing then Fluide. Different sort of move. Ultimately harder. So I guess somewhere between tippy top end 7B and middle 7B+.

shark

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#1 Re: Power Club 523 16th-22nd March 2020
March 22, 2020, 10:40:30 pm
Beat me to it. Was going to call it Self-Violation club

11.4-6 Average 159.1

M. Nice day. Tor with Tom. Low humidity but a bit glassy. Played around on THFML trying to make reach move easier and decided that having my LH matching like everyone else was marginally easier. Megos, Wil Bosi and Lu showed up. Repeated goes going from move 3 into the throw move and getting close each time. Then did the long link from the pocket and pinch to the end that eluded me last time. So that’s officially done in two halves now. Few goes after but busted and tips getting cut.

T. AM HighTor. First trad climbing outing for ages. Wanted to ease into it. Nick couldn’t get out so posted for a partner on FB previous evening and got a bite - a young Australian, Will. Just us at crag. Both did Original Route but noted he was quite slow. Ben Moon and STP turned up - last people I’d expect to see there. Did Debauchery next. Sun came out very briefly and it was a pleasure to do the first pitch. Turned chilly on the ledge and Will took his time doing the second pitch. I followed with numb fingers which was unpleasant. There was probably still just enough time to do Darius but not up for it by that point so we called it a day.

Eve. Assisted one armers. Recruitment pulls on ergo edge and Speed Pulls on 20mm edge

W.

T. Was keen for the Tor but Tommy wasn’t. Forecast cloudy, low humidity and 6 degrees so thought Blind Date worth a punt. Fingerboard warm up at home first. Quick backtrack in car when I realised I’d forgotten my preferred boots for it. Conditions good but not mint. Met Nick there and had buttress to ourselves other than someone popping in to solo Mutiny Crack. Took a bit getting back into it with body position on BD but soon was going  for LH slot. Seemed to get a bit warmer and Nick left with a sore elbow. Tommy keen to carry on (but not decamp to Tor) He persuaded me to carry on too despite sun threatening to peak through. Unexpectedly had three really good goes in succession. Got the LH slot twice and fell off going for RH slot and then got both slots and fell off trying to get LF on pebble. A go after that was only good to show how tired I was and packed up.

Eve Assisted one armers Recruitment pulls and Speed pulls

F.

S. Desperate to go to Tor but ruled it out for obvious reasons. Anston instead with Tommy where I figured there would be more options to climb on our own. Chilly and breezy with a whiff of garlic. Woodys Roof was drippy and damp but serviceable and most importantly unoccupied. Reacquainted with Soul Crusher 7C which has 3 hard moves into a 6C. Long session. Did the 3rd move and the 1st move once each and close multiple times on the 2nd. Right foot shoe dilemma as the heel of the white is best for the first two moves but something downturned with a narrower toe profile better for the third. Tommy did well too. Didn’t quite do his first move (which skips my second move) but did his 2nd move to top. Felt ok at end of session but a couple of hours later at home felt broken so abandoned notion of fingerboarding.

S. PM In an act of stupidity to match my burning hand incident I managed lop the tip of my left middle finger and deeply cut the ring finger with the lawnmower.  :slap:

Won’t be training for a while.
« Last Edit: March 25, 2020, 11:14:27 am by shark »

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#2 Re: Power Club 523 16th-22nd March 2020
March 22, 2020, 10:57:21 pm
Honestly mate,

You could have just said you weren’t going to climb outside and exerted willpower; you didn’t have to go through ritual mutilation to shore up your resolve.

Best wishes, get fit soon.

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#3 Re: Power Club 523 16th-22nd March 2020
March 22, 2020, 11:08:31 pm
Thanks Will. Good title. Good week to have off by the sounds. Mend well shark good time for an injury this.

STG get back into it and lose 7kgs. 4.5kgs to go.
MTG new 7
LTG new 7C

Haven't posted for a couple of weeks. Societal collapse has been rumbling away under my psyche for a few weeks. Hadnt thought SCC was all that much of a priority. But now the next few months looks like it will involve bodyweight exercises and stretching or else I thought i would resume. I know you had all been wondering...

Friday before. Took the boy to curbar for the first time in an age and played on trackside then repeated Dan's wall. Videod to try out my new phone and I would have saved this one for myself but it was good to repeat a 7 that isnt trackside - first since losing mojo last may - and who knows when I'll next take a selfie vid.



M- first wfh day. Went to plantation for 45 minutes during a break. Repeated zippys traverse in very short order- almost retro flashed but forgot you have to get your heel back on. If I might say it was a very good bit of climbing for me. Felt I was going ok.
T- trackside lap. Found that I could get to the pocket on crack and pocket without the arete  which goes at 7A. Determined to go back. Good 5k run.
W-
T-5k run
M-
S-
S-5k run

70-67.5kg year to date. Will have to up my train from home routine I think. It's a bit lacking.

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#4 Re: Power Club 523 16th-22nd March 2020
March 23, 2020, 09:01:06 am
I’m going to start doing this again. Did absolutely nothing apart from going for a walk on the moors on Saturday (haven’t even been stretching) this week as I’ve lost all motivation to train. Committing to writing this week up in next week’s PC will hopefully get me out of that.

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#5 Re: Power Club 523 16th-22nd March 2020
March 23, 2020, 09:12:28 am
A weird week that involved a lot more contemplative thought than climbing.

M - fingerboard. Experimented with 5kg assist and did three sets of this before the power was gone. Had nothing left afterwards.

T - fingerboard again. Felt weak so sacked it after a while.

W - core. Felt good after this.

T - fingerboard. Near enough a full set on 5kg assist which was very pleasing. Dropped out of half crimp towards the end of one or two sets but on balance very good. Left arm feels quite a bit stronger than right.

F - nothing.

S - went for a big 10 mile walk in the Dales. Saw almost nobody all day which was good for the soul but given the scenes across the country was forced to conclude that I was part of the problem. Decided to do a route at Giggleswick at the end of the day. Walked in past about 12 people and felt really uncomfortable being there. September Buttress was deserted so did that and then left. Good climbing but struggled to enjoy the experience due to worry about being irresponsible.

S - A tricky situation as was already in the Dales but if I wasn't already, I wouldn't have gone out. Drove over the tops via Arncliffe which was the highlight of the weekend; what a stunning, stunning landscape, a view I never get tired of. Went to Dib Scar in an effort to ensure isolation, which worked. Did a 6a+ and a 6c+ but my heart wasn't in it. Cool crag though and will come back one day to do the steep 7s. A relief to drive home in a lot of ways.

Really bizarre weekend and if I had my time again I probably wouldn't go, despite effectively isolating ourselves in the van and in remote areas. Pictures of Malham rammed on the news and national parks across the country swamped were hard to justify and its pretty clear to me that we are part of the problem even if we contort ourselves into arguing that we aren't. Back on the fingerboard this week and guesses on a postcard what the situation will be next Monday.




shark

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#6 Re: Power Club 523 16th-22nd March 2020
March 23, 2020, 09:59:38 am
A weird week that involved a lot more contemplative thought than climbing.

Yep. Was our Silver Wedding anniversary on weds and had a low key day out to South Manchester revisiting where we first met, lived and got married. Celebratory weekend booked in London was obviously cancelled. Also cancelled reservation at RRG where I was looking forward to going with habrich and get a big team together. Aged parents are holed up on their farm in Devon and Dad has a minor heart condition. Then there’s financial worries/hit. Thought well at least my training and climbing are going well and blew that in a second of absent minded stupidity. Would be devastated in normal circumstances but with all that’s going on putting things in perspective currently feel curiously calm and collected.

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#7 Re: Power Club 523 16th-22nd March 2020
March 23, 2020, 10:05:09 am
Weight: Don't care anymore

M: Rest

T: 50 pull-ups, core (knee raises, leg raises, L-hangs), finger boarding (3 x 10 secs 30mm, 18mm, 15mm, 12mm half crimp. 3 x 10 secs half crimp front 18mm and 12mm). Run 9.85km 392m vert.

W: 100 pull-ups, finger boarding (3 x 10 secs 30mm, 18mm, 15mm, 12mm half crimp. 3 x 10 secs half crimp front 18mm and 12mm).

T: Walked for an hour into the forest to drink some beers by the river.

F: 50 pull-ups, finger boarding (3 x 10 secs 30mm, 18mm, 15mm, 12mm half crimp. 3 x 10 secs half crimp front 18mm and 12mm). All sets with added weight (4kg). Run 16.97km 954m vert.

S: 100 pull-ups (50 on the bar + 50 on edges 15-30mm all with 4 kg added). Core (knee raises, leg raises, L-hangs), finger boarding (3 x 10 secs 30mm, 18mm, 15mm, 12mm half crimp. 3 x 10 secs half crimp front 18mm and 12mm all with 4kg weight added).Foam rolling. Run 5.45km 239m vert.

S: Run 32.54km 1892m vert.

First week trying to train during the lockdown. Unfortunately, I don't have an ideal setup at home, just a bar and a Woody's fingerboard to hang off it. I like the finger board and don't mind that it is not statically mounted but it is hard to keep my knees off the floor when hanging off the smallest edges. I could do with more weights (+ my pulley) for assisted one arm hangs and weighted hangs/pulls. However, they are 7km away in my flat. I am trying to decide whether to risk a trip there to get them either by foot or on bike and trying to convince the police it is essential travel if I get stopped.

Running was going as normal but I was taking it very steady as I would be very embarrassed/ashamed if I ended up in A+E if I tripped running downhill. However, after yesterday's run we were stopped by the police and told that this is now banned. I don't see the issue as we are staying well clear of anyone, whilst in the meantime the police are having to actively disperse groups of parents and kids meeting in playgrounds. Some of these groups are actively refusing to move knowing that the police won't actually physically move them and that their powers have not actually been extended despite the lockdown. Having said that, I fully buy into the lockdown and having read a lot of the literature and modelling it seems to be the most effective way stemming the exponential spread of the virus and reducing the infection rate "R" to a number below 1 despite the large shock to the economy. It seems to be having results here after only one week as people in general seem to respect the rules. Infection rates have reduced from doubling every two days to every 4-6 days. Obviously it is still too early to tell and the numbers are still relatively small per capita. I despair for the UK though.

I am overall happy with the training I was able to do despite the lockdown. The climbing training felt high quality and, whilst a bit boring, it might develop some raw strength that I have been lacking for sometime if I don't get injured. However, I allowed myself to hit the booze quite heavily this week to cope with the loss of freedoms! I need to rein that in this week and try and stop drinking every day or at least cut out lunchtime/early afternoon drinks!







sdm

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#8 Re: Power Club 523 16th-22nd March 2020
March 23, 2020, 10:06:27 am
Reacquainted with Soul Crusher 7C which has 3 hard moves into a 6C. Long session. Did the 3rd move and the 1st move once each and close multiple times on the 2nd. Right foot shoe dilemma as the heel of the white is best for the first two moves but something downturned with a narrower toe profile better for the third.

How are you doing that move? I do it with the right foot on the faaar right polished nubbin and a very deep left drop knee (left hip touching the roof).

The shape of the right toe didn't feel that important to me, the thing that seemed to matter was having the softest right shoe possible (Furia S) so that I could put more weight in to the right foot. I preferred a stiff left shoe (Instinct VS) for this move.

Also, the heels at the start seemed so generous that I don't think it would make any difference which shoes I wore for the first 2 moves? I use a really vertical left heel on the first move, then I get a right heel-toe out right for the second move that really locks in to the roof. While working the start moves, I used my old Magos for comfort and the heels on those are rubbish.

Quote
Tommy did well too. Didn’t quite do his first move (which skips my second move) but did his 2nd move to top.

I didn't have the power for that sequence either. Would have saved me a lot of lost skin from holding that tooth!

Quote
Felt ok at end of session but a couple of hours later at home felt broken so abandoned notion of fingerboarding.
I can't imagine being in a state where a fingerboard session was possible after a session on Soulcrusher!

shark

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#9 Re: Power Club 523 16th-22nd March 2020
March 23, 2020, 10:20:56 am
For the third move I have to give my lazy right leg a stern talking to and get it to drill onto the hold as if trying to pointing toe back to the base of the roof which gets my hip out a bit with leg crossed underneath but not getting hip high like you as find that increases swing. Letting go of undercut with LH I briefly dab a small sharp flake on way to the rail. 

Old vid here:



First move felt at limit yesterday but the undercuts did feel glassy and was trying from middle of session so hopefully heel won’t be crucial in better conditions

Heel/toe for second move sounds interesting. Have you got any ‘footage’

All a bit academic for a while obviously
« Last Edit: March 23, 2020, 10:30:31 am by shark »

duncan

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Heal well Simon.

STG: survive, do something active every day, don’t get injured
MTG-LTG: who knows?.

M -  :sick: Knee strength (high step-ups, single leg squats)
T -  :sick: Shoulder strength (one arm planks, handstands, tick-tocks); knee strength.
W -  :sick: Shoulder and knee strength.
T -  :sick: Shoulder strength
F -  :sick: Knee strength. Elbows had started aching with inactivity so did some 2 second “minimum hangs” fingerboard session. Better after this.
S -  :sick: Knee strength. A few pull-ups, similar effect as Friday’s fingerboard..
S - Feeling a bit better. Short walk outside for the first time in a week. Had a chat with several of the neighbours (from the middle of the road). N. London was quieter than usual, by no means shut down but most people seemed to be keeping to themselves or in small family groups. House clean and tidy effort, cursory shoulder strength exercises. Felt sick, exhausted, and a bit low after all this.

Felt wiped-out all week, lost 1.5kg, persistent exhausting cough but no temp. spike so probably just a cold. Self-isolated and pulled the lad out of school just in case. The college had already decreed we’d be working from home so this was no big deal. Wasn’t up for any kind of vigorous exercise, felt worse when I did more than a minuscule amount, but better for doing something rather than nothing. Going out on Sunday felt a bit weird even though within current recommendations. Can’t imagine wanting to go climbing right now.

In many ways I’m ideally set up for a lock-down: no financial worries, a job that can mostly be done from home, plenty of food in easy walking distance, good basic home exercise set-up, too far from rock to be tempted to sneak out for a quiet boulder, and I’m generally happy with my own company. It still wasn’t an easy week.   

Take care everyone. 

Nibile

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I don't want to be rude with Will, but I find this week's topic title very distasteful, unnecessary and not funny at all. Maybe it's just my take on this whole thing and I am overreacting.

Shark, get well soon.

Power Club

Mon - very short session. Overhead carry 45"/15" x 6 (30 kg). Farmer's 45"/15" x 4 (80 kg). Very hard. Playing with work/rest ratio is so cool.
Tue - recovery session, light boxing bag.
Wed - snatch singles up to 44 kg. Then snatch 5x5 (38 kg). DL 5x5 (80 kg). Front lever pulls 5x5. Farmer's 45/15 x6 (80 kg). Brilliant session.
Thu - tests on 9 mm edge up to +40 kg that felt quite easy, then front3 finger flexions on Lattice Edge. Then TB DL x10, pull ups x5, 1' rest, 1' overhead carry, 1' rest x9. Brutal.
Fri - recovery session, light boxing bag.
Sat - board climbing! 6 laps on test problem 2. Hot. Weights. Clean and press finisher.
Sun - ab wheel 20x5. Glutes, squat, overhead carry lunges, snatch pulls.

shark

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I don't want to be rude with Will, but I find this week's topic title very distasteful, unnecessary and not funny at all. Maybe it's just my take on this whole thing and I am overreacting.

Shark, get well soon.


Altered and thank you

sdm

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For the third move I have to give my lazy right leg a stern talking to and get it to drill onto the hold as if trying to pointing toe back to the base of the roof which gets my hip out a bit with leg crossed underneath but not getting hip high like you as find that increases swing. Letting go of undercut with LH I briefly dab a small sharp flake on way to the rail. 

Old vid here:



I think we are using different right footholds for that move. I think mine was quite a long way further right / closer to the lip. It was the furthest right of all the footholds.

I tried the flagging through method for this move but could never make it work, I had to find a way to get more weight on to my feet.

Quote
Heel/toe for second move sounds interesting. Have you got any ‘footage’
Sadly I think the only footage I have is on the harddrive of my busted laptop. I keep meaning to try recovering the data but haven't got round to it yet. Maybe I'll actually find the time to get it sorted now...

From memory, I pull on with the left heel placed vertically on a good obvious hold, right foot quite low.

Then for the second move, I step right foot, then left foot both out to the right (on polished holds near the bottom of the wall, just above where it cuts away in to another mini roof), then get my right heel further right at the top of the wall, just below where the back wall/side wall meets the roof. I think it's quite obvious where the heel goes if you are looking for it. The right foot is placed horizontally and the toe/instep cams in against something in the roof (right by the join with the back wall).

Quote
All a bit academic for a while obviously

Plenty of time to work on visualising the move!

shark

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Yes. Most walk their feet up high and back but I’m not strong enough. Also I start with my right heel on..

Will Hunt

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I don't want to be rude with Will, but I find this week's topic title very distasteful, unnecessary and not funny at all. Maybe it's just my take on this whole thing and I am overreacting.

  :slap: :oops: :badidea: :sorry:

nai

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goals - stay home, surive

m rest

T convinced myself a quiet crag would be ok, headed to Anston so I could pop into Costco on the way home. Flailed on Reservation for a while, briefly tried the Beretta extension crux. Repeated Beretta, felt 6C+ this time.

W - leg, hip & shoulder massage and mobility

Th - Torn, decided against driving too far so headed to Burbage Bridge. Pretty surprised at how many we're out, layby and car park both full.  Plan A, Mermaid, was wet but there was nobody on Little Roof area so did all the problems on that block.  Felt a bit conflicted about being out and a bit nervy every time I saw anybody approaching. Went home early and decided I wouldn't go anywhere so public again

Fr - Andersons 3 & pickups, weighted pullups & negative one armers. Also did the BD core workout that teestub linked. Felt pretty good and exposed some mobility limitations, core ached on Saturday.

S - 3x5mins LI Aero. leg, hip & shoulder massage and mobility

S  - nowt

I'm very fortunate to have pretty much everything I could need at home, fairly motivated to improve FS so going to concentrate on that and conditioning work for now

Stay Safe everyone







Nibile

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I don't want to be rude with Will, but I find this week's topic title very distasteful, unnecessary and not funny at all. Maybe it's just my take on this whole thing and I am overreacting.

  :slap: :oops: :badidea: :sorry:
Hey Will, no problem.
 Thanks for your message, much appreciated.
Stay safe everyone.

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Heal well Simon,

I am debating wether to share my training notes or not. Pros vs Cons a bit unclear atm. One of the cons is that my notes are extremely detailed and that I have a hard time believing that knowing what I do would make anyone psyched. I cannot be bothered to summarise either.... maybe I should write a script for that... mm... could be a good NLP-exercise. For now I put my notes in a scroll window so they are easy to skip for sane people.

Code: [Select]
Sunday, 15 March.
Morning weight 67.9 kg
Climbing Capucin in the evening.
Start of Ramponaux to dry it out for J, A quite wet Cassin pitch1 7a+ two hangs.
Osmos 8b/+ 3 hangs.  Start of Ramponaux to dry it out for J.
Osmos big fall, falling far not able to boink back to rock.
Osmos 1 hang up to the crux, but couldn’t do crux.

Monday, 16 March.
Morning weight 67.9 kg

CORONAVIRUS ISOLATION

Tuesday, 17 March.
Morning weight 68 kg
Day 1.
Morning: Fingerboard.
2 arm hangs
20mm Halfcrimp bw+5.25 kg 40s (+2-3s?), 7 min rest,  bw+6.25kg (33s)
Open hand 20mm bw+6.25kg 40s +
Discovered that the hangboard was skewed! Adjusted then:
Open hand 20mm bw+7.25kg 40s +0s to task failure
Full crimp 20mm bw 30s ouch
Right ringfinger half crimp 7.25kg 40s.
Morning/Midday: Stretching 5min
Evening: Strength
Pullups bw. 18,15
Pushups bw 15, 14
Hanging leg ups 7
Supermans 20
V-ups 6 eh….
Diagonals 10, 9
Gaston with orange band 2x10
Shoulder dumbell stuff
Traverse under the table
Wednesday, 18 March.
Morning weight 67.1 kg
Lunch Run 4.8km at leisurely pace ~30min
Stretching 3x3x30s
Evening
Fingerboarding 1-arm hangs
bw=68.1kg
Half crimp 20 mm: 20s@bw-16kg right,  20s@bw-14kg left
Half crimp 20 mm: 20s@bw-14kg right,  20s@bw-12kg left hard on left
Half crimp 20 mm: 17s@bw-12kg right,  17s@bw-10kg left to task failure
Open hand  20 mm: 20s@bw-10kg left,  20s@bw-12kg right
Open hand  20 mm: 20s@bw-12kg right,  20s@bw-10kg left hard on left
Open hand  20 mm: 25s@bw-10kg right,  23s@bw-9kg left
Full crimp 20mm: 20s@bw-14kg left, 20s,  20s@bw-14kg right
Full crimp 20mm: 19s@bw-10kg left, 20s,  19s@bw-10kg right
Mono pocket right ring finger 10kg 20 s
Wide pinch 5 pieces between. 20 kg 5s both hands x 2


Thursday, 19 March.
Morning weight: 67.9 kg

Friday, 20 March.
Morning weight 67.6 kg
Fingerboarding 1-arm hangs
bw=68.5kg
Half crimp 20 mm: 20s@bw-14kg left,  20s@bw-14kg right
Half crimp 20 mm: 20s@bw-14kg left,  20s@bw-14kg right
Half crimp 20 mm: 20s@bw-12kg left,  19s@bw-12kg right
Half crimp 20 mm: 17s@bw-10kg left,  17s@bw-11kg right
Open hand  20 mm: 20s@bw-10kg left,  20s@bw-10kg right
Open hand  20 mm: 20s@bw-10kg left,  20s@bw-10kg right
Open hand  20 mm: 20s@bw-10kg left,  20s@bw-10kg right
Open hand  20 mm: 14s@bw-5kg right,  15s@bw-5kg left
Crimp 2 hands 20mm bw: 20s, 20s
Wide pinch 5 pieces between. 14 kg 20s both hands x 3 easy
Thin pinch 0 pieces beween. 14 kg 20s both hands x 3 to failure on right on last set
Some extra stress on the right ring finger.
Physical
Pullups 20 w/ some kicks, 17 with fewer kicks, 15 yellow rubber band to knee
Pushups 17, 15, 12
Supermans 20
Vups 9
Diagonals 11
Shoulder stuff,



Saturday, 21 March.
Morning Weight 68.1 kg
Morning:
Running about 20 min
Evening:
Endurance board 30min on, then
Big flat hold  on fingerboard shaking out bw-14kg 2x5 min with 30s rest.
Some stretching.


Sunday, 22 March.
Morning weight 68 kg
Very sore in the morning.
Pullups 18 w/ orange band. 20 w/ orange + yellow band assist! 22 w/ orange + yellow band assist…
Fingerboarding 1-arm hangs
bw=69kg
Half crimp 20 mm: 20s@bw-14kg r,  20s@bw-14kg l
Half crimp 20 mm: 20s@bw-12kg r,  20s@bw-12kg l
Half crimp 20 mm: 20s@bw-11kg r,  20s@bw-11kg l
Half crimp 20 mm: 19s@bw-10.5kg r,  20s+@bw-10kg l
Open hand  20 mm: 20s@bw-8.5kg left,  20s@bw-9kg right
Open hand  20 mm: 20s@bw-8.5kg left,  20s@bw-9kg right
Open hand  20 mm: 20s@bw-8.5kg left,  20s@bw-9kg right
Open hand  20 mm: 20s@bw-8kg right,  20s@bw-8kg left


Monday, 23 March.
Morning weight 67.1 kg

Nutty

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Been a while but I'm going to re-join Power Club to keep up some training psyche.

Goals: Get strong, don't get injured, stay healthy and sane.

M: Fingerboard and mobility - 5 x 20sec body weight hangs 15mm edge
T: Rest:
W: Fingerboard and mobility - 5 x 20sec body weight hangs 15mm edge
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: Rest
S: Garden Board session. Decided to break in some new instinct laces that I've been saving as I felt my instinct slippers were getting too worn at the toe - made a move that felt desperate last session easy. Rechargeable site lamp I use for illumination died curtailing the session - battery capacity has decreased to the point that I need to get a new one.

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Update.

Seen the specialist at Northern General Hand Clinic and looks like I’ve got off lightly which is a huge relief.

Don’t need a graft as skin should fully grow back and have feeling in tip in about 8 weeks barring complications. Can potentially even train at second joint if I don’t load the tip which will make for some novel training exercises going forward.

Will be doing a lot of visualisation practice of my projects so at least I can pretend I’m climbing


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M- nope
T - nope
W - 1st day working from home - nope
T - 2nd day working from home - nope
F - 3rd day - see above
S - short walk with kids 5km - a bit of core.
S - short walk with kids 6 km - some kettlebells.

petejh

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Update.

Seen the specialist at Northern General Hand Clinic and looks like I’ve got off lightly which is a huge relief.

Don’t need a graft as skin should fully grow back and have feeling in tip in about 8 weeks barring complications. Can potentially even train at second joint if I don’t load the tip which will make for some novel training exercises going forward.

Will be doing a lot of visualisation practice of my projects so at least I can pretend I’m climbing


A poor man's Tommy Caldwell.

shark

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A poor man's Tommy Caldwell Dolly

FTFY

lukas_s

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Running was going as normal but I was taking it very steady as I would be very embarrassed/ashamed if I ended up in A+E if I tripped running downhill. However, after yesterday's run we were stopped by the police and told that this is now banned. I don't see the issue as we are staying well clear of anyone, whilst in the meantime the police are having to actively disperse groups of parents and kids meeting in playgrounds. Some of these groups are actively refusing to move knowing that the police won't actually physically move them and that their powers have not actually been extended despite the lockdown. Having said that, I fully buy into the lockdown and having read a lot of the literature and modelling it seems to be the most effective way stemming the exponential spread of the virus and reducing the infection rate "R" to a number below 1 despite the large shock to the economy. It seems to be having results here after only one week as people in general seem to respect the rules. Infection rates have reduced from doubling every two days to every 4-6 days. Obviously it is still too early to tell and the numbers are still relatively small per capita. I despair for the UK though.

Do I remember correctly that you live in Innsbruck as well? (Me too, I don't usually post, but read on here quite a bit)
Did the police write down your name or anything, in case they see you again? I find it strange, that they stopped you, as going for a walk and  running alone/ with people that live in your house should still be aloud.
I go out running and cycling, without leaving the city-boarders, myself (as I can't run a lot due to old knee injuries) to keep sane, but so far I had no problems with the authorities.

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Weird one and feel irresponsible about the driving I did over the weekend. Glad I didn't go to Dib Scar on Sunday as I originally intended (not that I want to avoid meeting you spidermonkey but circumstances and that).

M - At work. Spent the evening wondering what work from home would look like for weeks
T - Nipped up to Ilkley buckstones and pottered
W - Nipped up to Ilkley buckstones and pottered, led a circuit training session for my work colleagues over t'internet
T - Shipley glen, tried to avoid the crowds after being one of a few too many people near to Manson's wall. Did undercracker before decamping. Spent some time on the slab below Parker - eventually got the traverse prob - I found a cool but probably duff sequence and enjoyed it. L also seemed to enjoy the stuff there.
F - Virtual pub with work colleagues which was good fun - played linkee which works well over a group call
S - Walk at Ilkley Moor with a friend - we kept our distance from each other but this was probably a bad idea. Had a wonderful time off the beaten track.
S - Sharp Haw and Flasby Fell with L - beautiful afternoon in the sun and out the wind looking across the dales. Forgot about the world for a few hours. Absolute bliss, I'll be savouring that for a while.

JohnM

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Quote
Do I remember correctly that you live in Innsbruck as well? (Me too, I don't usually post, but read on here quite a bit)
Did the police write down your name or anything, in case they see you again? I find it strange, that they stopped you, as going for a walk and  running alone/ with people that live in your house should still be aloud.
I go out running and cycling, without leaving the city-boarders, myself (as I can't run a lot due to old knee injuries) to keep sane, but so far I had no problems with the authorities.

Hi Lukas  :wave: Yeah I live in Innsbruck. Actually in Kranebitten but I am staying with my girlfriend in Wilten for the duration of the Ausgangssperre. They didn't take my name or address, just informed me that I was only allowed to leave the flat to go to the nearest supermarket, visit the doctor or take a short walk. I saw quite a lot of people jogging so I think they just randomly targeted us.

By the way, in case you were wondering, I am not the British guy in the local news who was stopped by police cycling on the closed Inn promenade, who then became abusive and aggressive towards the police who had to handcuff him and found that he was carrying various different IDs. Nice that some of my friends assumed it was me though  :lol:

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Agreed with the above that this has been a weird week. Last outdoor (or any) climbing for a while. US is a bit behind the UK in the whole closing the door on outdoor climbing but I think we're there now.

M: Home Workout. 300 core movements, 100 press-ups, stretching

T: Clear Creek Canyon - Mile 268 Boulders. Stopped by Mossman (cool V9) but dripping so went to the Mavericks boulder. Warmed up on Mavericks (highball V5 I did in May) then gave The North Shore V9 a few pulls. Large deadpoint move that I was close to making and not quite sticking. Moved on to 41st Street, v powerful boulder and v stiff at V7. Pieced the moves together and couldn't quite get the top. Tried from bottom and got through to the top but powered out on the lip. Couldn't get back there but psyched to return - after the virus / curve has been flattened

W: Home Workout. 300 core movements, 100 press-ups, stretching

T: Morrison - Black Hole. Deserted due to the snow, psyched it stays dry! Warmed up and finished off Lady Revlon V6. Then did Tendonitis Travers V5. Worked some of the moves on another eliminate, Death by Drowning V7 - keen for that next time. Finished by getting pumped trying Upper Wisdom (long traverse). Videos of the sends are on the Non-Quality Bouldering thread

F: 100 press-ups

S: 100 press-ups. 2 mile walk with pup around Red Rocks Trading Post Trail

S: Castlewood Canyon. Took wrong approach to the Punani boulder but got there eventually. Boulder we wanted to try was busy so went to look at The Ham V7. Hard and sharp - grim. Eventually Punani V7 was free. Tried the normal beta repeatedly and couldn't quite do it. Tried the beta with the two-finger pocket and it went, probably V6 this way... Got a vid but probably won't post until climbing outside is OK again.

Ordered a Beastmaker and a pull-up bar and purchased some wood, steel and a saw. Hope the BM arrives before any international shipping is banned... Our stay at home order starts this evening - I think I'm allowed to go to the local park (one block) to hang my portable fingerboard off a tree...

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I follow a few of the US climbing and skiing pages on FB, the way the news is being received over there is quite dismaying.

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I follow a few of the US climbing and skiing pages on FB, the way the news is being received over there is quite dismaying.
Yeah there was some to-ing and fro-ing of the community then the pros started promoting non-climbing. However even today someone I follow on IG posted to his stories saying that he's still climbing and unless they have a medical background, he doesn't want to hear from anyone. It is more of a selfish (capitalist) culture over here though I suppose.

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Wasn't going to post this week but probably best to keep it going. Pretty terrible week really with everything going on in the world and a personal loss. Showing me the incredible value of being able to get out; miss it already.

M - Forest Rock. Thankfully no one there. Very drippy. Hasty warm up then did Anti-Hero short in a couple of goes (couldn't do the full thing due to the rail being soaked). Then onto Enchantress which was all dry. Bit anti-style this as I'm bad on undercuts. Spent ages working out a sequence, trying loads of things which all felt a bit desperate. Thought I'd have a go from the start and fell off the last move! Second go fell off halfway but pulled on immediately and went to the top. Third go dropped the last move again. Ran out of time then as had been taking big rests. Annoyingly on my second go heard a click in my right ring finger knuckle; think it might actually have dislocated slightly through weirdly angled pressure through it on an undercling. Felt pretty painful at various times in the following week but seems okay now.

T - nothing

W - nothing

T - Baildon Bank. Deserted apart from a few runners who kept their distance. Got stupid close on Pinch 32 sit. Did the stand first go, then from two moves in to the top immediately after. Best go got the pinch (crux of the stand) but couldn't quite close up on it and after trying to readjust a couple of times my heel popped off and I was down. Reckon if I'd closed up I'd have done it. Lots of goes and into the stand on most. Couple of times hit the hold again but not in control.

F - nothing

S - Simon's Seat. Picked somewhere remote but lots to go at. Lots of walkers and a few climbers but all kept at a very safe distance. Repeated Galaxy, then did Whaleback. Managed to flash Delta, then had a quick go on Toe-Fu. It'll go, but heart wasn't in it. Noticed instead an alternative start to Delta, pulling on with left hand in the Toe-Fu start hold and right on a small undercling, and slapping powerfully for the shelf. Took quite a few goes but did it eventually. Reckon it won't have been done before. Fair bit harder than Delta I think. Vid below; how flipping cool is that feature?!



Walked over to Lord's which was a mistake as the wind was howling. Uncertainty Principle looks super cool though, very keen if we ever get out of this mess. Back to Simon's and wandered around for a bit before heading home, just enjoying scrambling over rock and being out with the place to myself.

S - 6 mile local walk

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M - Bizarre day travelling back from Barcelona. Airport is eerily quiet with only a few flights out and all the shops shut except for one newsagent with a strict 2 people at any one time policy and most oddly the mobile phone shop. 
Flight delayed but finally get back to find the roads very quiet.

T - Just a walk around the block.

W - Another walk around the block.

T - Venture out to Brimham based on the NT statement encouraging visits to their outdoor sites. Do a few of the easier things on Jokers Wall and then Whisky Galore which takes a few goes. I must have done this problem dozens of times but not for well over ten years. Really neat problem.
See another team on Lovers Leap but nobody else climbing and when walking back there are a few families but really not many at all.

F - Nip to Hetchell and work on traverse which I fall off the last move a couple of times. Then do a few up problems.
There is a team there with a rope who are packing up when we arrive, other than that only see a couple of dog walkers.

S - Plans to go to Brimham are cancelled, as are plans to go to Almscliffe, Hetchell and West Vale as I read this forum and think about what the right thing to do is. Walk round the block.

S - Walk up to farm shop with Mrs B for some supplies. Decide potatoes are quite heavy.

A very odd week, with a lot of considering what I think is the right thing to do on a particular day. In retrospect, I’m still not sure either way about any of the things I did.

Bradders

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Rumble in the Jungle. Definitely not 7C with the better beta. Felt 7A or 7A+. More importantly it's got the most brilliant climbing on it. Properly unmissable. One of the best (that's a phrase that gets thrown around a lot but this really is).

No idea why Olly did it with his beta. Proper FA blinkers. Tom and I said 7B to each other on the way out when we did it, definitely harder for the short and top move felt pretty spicy. Felt a bit like Andy Brown's at Earl but with a slightly easier top move and a harder sequence to get to it.

Couldn't agree more that it's brilliant, and a great effort from Olly and Seb building the landing.

Footwork

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Rumble in the Jungle. Definitely not 7C with the better beta. Felt 7A or 7A+. More importantly it's got the most brilliant climbing on it. Properly unmissable. One of the best (that's a phrase that gets thrown around a lot but this really is).

No idea why Olly did it with his beta. Proper FA blinkers. Tom and I said 7B to each other on the way out when we did it, definitely harder for the short and top move felt pretty spicy. Felt a bit like Andy Brown's at Earl but with a slightly easier top move and a harder sequence to get to it.

Couldn't agree more that it's brilliant, and a great effort from Olly and Seb building the landing.

The FA blinkers are real. Will thought he was trying 7A+ at Adel crag once upon a long time ago. Was more like 6A if you just heaved yourself over the lip using you knees.

I definitely thought more 7A++ as it's a long way to the top from the last hold (you almost think you won't make it until you start gaining momentum) which we did dynamically but without a cut loose.

Talking of off the track gems, I did Phoenix Wall at Panorama a couple of weeks ago. One of the best slabs I've done. Are there any other really good slabs at 7B+ and harder in Yorkshire?

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Talking of off the track gems, I did Phoenix Wall at Panorama a couple of weeks ago. One of the best slabs I've done. Are there any other really good slabs at 7B+ and harder in Yorkshire?

It's great isn't it. Isn't Yorkshire supposed to be the slab climbing capital of the UK?

Not that I've done any of them, but off the top of my head some hard Yorkshire slabs:

- Pebbledash
- Serious Sauntering
- The Doppler Effect
- To Be Is Not To Bolt
- Your Grace
- Your Majesty
- Psycho Direct
- Marrow Bone Jelly
- Terry
- Syrett's Saunter
- Scary Canary
- The Chieftain

Will Hunt

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I looked up at Pebbledash recently and thought it looked surprisingly all there. Would like a go at some point.

36chambers

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don't forget the classic Dreamland Sit.

Footwork

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No good slab has a sit start

tomtom

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No good slab has a sit start
Or a font start ;)

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I know it's not in Yorkshire, but Mono block 7c+ at Pex is technically a slab.

 

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