[Bubba]

Suppose you want to train both stamina and power...

Is it better to train power on day one, stamina on day 2, the other way round, or is the order irrelevant?

[the_dom]

Suppose you want to train both stamina and power...

Is it better to train power on day one, stamina on day 2, the other way round, or is the order irrelevant?

I reckon power first, then stamina, as you're going to lose some power training stamina first.

As a tangent, what is the opinion on training 3 days on (say tuesday, wed, thurs) but for short sessions? I don't want to get pyscho about it like FOAM, but I'm keen to try 5 days a week on (campusing, indoor and outdoor bouldering) with short sessions.

[dave]

of the top of me head i'd say power first (cos thats the order in a single session) but if you're used to going consecutive days and you're warming-up/down well and stopping well before your busted, then I wouldn't have thought theres a good reason for your power to suffer after a stamina day.

[vivahate]

should you increase your rest days with the number of consecutive days you train?

[webbo]

i would reckon that intially you would need more rest days but you would gradually develop capacity to manage with less rest days.but like dave says its about stopping before your totally wasted.

in other sports people often don't have rest days.they do what is called active rest.that is performing the activety at 50% of your max.did this when i cycle raced,although i could never do it as a runner i.e. no matter how easy i ran i was always fucked afterwards.

[saltbeef]

i regularly climb consecutive days, rarely find the climbing to be the limiting factor, usually skin. the times i've really felt too tired to climb was at ceuse (probs the walk in) and recently the krankenjura, where i climbed 6 days on (couple of easy days in there) and then three daysone off three on oneoff. felt fuct after that! as malc says listen to your body. or you'll get injured. (as for running, when i was training hard i'd probably run 10 to 11 times during the week, no days off but some days just an easy 4 miles to stretch the old pins...)

[dave]

i often train cellar/wall several eveings on in the week no probems. think its cos i always stop before totally busted (unlike outside) and cos cellar moves are starightforward and don't totally fuck your back, shoulders, side and skin like outdoors can. i don't train when feeling generally tired or busted cos its counterproductive, and generally have to rest at least a day of not 2 due to other commitments or bad skin/weekend burn.

[T.H.]

Well I don't know how you guys do it.  I only did 2 hours down the wall yesterday, none of my usual campussing and deadhanging nonsense either, and my forearms, lats and biceps are fooked.  I always need a days rest, if I don't I can guarantee myself a case of tendonitis.

[vivahate]

i think one of the problems I have is obliterating myself whenever i train, I guess I should stop half and hour earlier and do it more often.

cheers for the advice

[BoulderHog]

I think you should train until your fairly wasted, anything other than this is only maintaining your current standard. It's best to learn what your body can recover from in 24hours and try not to go over this. A good way to judge is whether you have repeated sore muscles the day after a session or a severe drop off in standard.

Train hard for a couple of months, then climb more often more days on but at a gentler pace (ie. maintenance) for a month, gives your body time to adapt before the next block of hard training.

[account_inactive]

Power sessions tend to be more productive if you leave feeling like you could climb way more.  By always going to failure you place a massive strain on your body trying to recover.  The likely hood of you overtraining in this situation is quite high.

On the other hand Stamina (faggot) training requires you to 'waste yourself' more often.

It is possible to train every day as long as you taper you sessions to suit.  Like Saltbeef my fingers skin gets fucked after more that a couple of days  and so I have to take rest days.

The order of training to get the most out of you session (i.e cause greater overload) should be - Power - Power Endurance - other gay route stuff.  This should be applied to single session and multiple days on.

The 90's fashion of 2 days on 1 day off etc is WAY to general for atheletes but would probably work better for route climbers than boulderers.  I often feel better for 4 days straight (skin permitting).  Like everthing in climbing its about knowing your own body.  Some people can train every day and not over train other people cannot climb for that 2 days straight.

After only 3 weeks back into climbing I have to take 3 or 4 rest days between sessions as otherwise I feel fucked.  As the season goes on I will be climbing more and more and training less :wink: