[Will Hunt]

Tu - Depot. Intended to climb on the board but had too much fun in the main room.

Su - Almscliff. Windy as frig, but dry. Warmed up and did Sloper Patrol. Hadn't done this before but had been aware that it was an omission from my Cliff ticklist for a while. Worked out the end and did. I think people mostly go around the corner to finish but I've never figured out how to do this and the guide is ambiguous - just saying to get to the arete and top out. Got my hand on the arete, foot blind on/around the corner and mantelled it on the lhs. Felt legit.

Bojan's pad ripped loose from its moorings under Keelhaul and ended up caught in the wooden gate in the wall between South wall and Black Wall. He says he lost a sit start pad in the same manner last week. MIA.
Had wanted to try the end of the bulb and just see if I could do it but way too windy.

For want of anything else to do I tried Stu's Left again. Was really really pleased to get through to the stand. I've felt out of form so it feels nice to do a few moves that I find hard. Split a tip so stopped.

[tomtom]

Windy cliff times. I’ve been at the Cliff and had a large alp kit pad acting like a kite whilst holding one of the extended straps (just to make a bouldering mat kite) - until it whipped around in the wind and thwacked me on the face knocking me over 😂 #karma

[tomtom]

Mon: Down to Mad Voulume straight after work. Good to bump into SteveR there - had a fun evening on the board. Didnt have much flow but managed to do a couple of things I'd not done before. Still not broken into Board 7A yet  Strangely got a second wind instead of powering out after 45 min to an hour and didn't get home until gone 9.

Tu: Long day in the office...

We: Popped into Church Crag on the way home. Decent conditions. Got frustrated on Gullivers travels - but then started to break it down move my move - and using the 'ladder' there saved some skin by climbing into each move I couldnt do and spending time getting my body position right - and micro beta/adjustments. Found some different foot beta to get my LH up into the gaston - that felt very secure - and didnt quite manage to bump my RF up into the best hold (starting hand hold). Feels like a powerful press move for me - which may not be helped by coming into it lower - but may well feel easier next time now I'm more familiar with it etc.. When tired spent a while working my other very low percentage move - the flick out to the left hand pinch. Again - spent time working out that I needed to go low and come across on my left foot. Look - this all sounds really really dull - but was actually very very gratifying, like I was systematically breaking down elements of the puzzle.

Th/Fri: Half term week, so parental duties took over..

Sa: Took a chance on Trowbarrow: It was dry from when I arrived (11:30) until about 12:45 when a couple of hefty showers came in. This was really frustrating - as I had just started to fire properly and was in my attempt, ten min rest, attempt etc.. redpoint cycle.. my last go is shown in the Pit Problem thread  - I wont bother repeating myself here. https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30464.msg599315.html#msg599315 It dried up a bit after the shower - but I couldnt get firing again properly and went home just as a big hail storm moved in. There were some chuffers on one of the easier looking problems down the other end who got caught out in the big storm (mmmm.... wet limestone trad...) one of whom was trudging back to the car (still in her rock shoes) as I departed - I asked if it was a bit grim and she was beaming from ear to ear... second time seconding someone....

Su: Parental duties looking at the niceish weather outside....

[nai]

STG:  Jerry's Roof on Wales (weather dependent) trip first week March.
2020 Lime, Grit and AN Other Font 7Cs.

Been half term so limited opportunities

M nowt

T - Fingerboard benchmarking, probably best not done at 8am.  Felt low but my scores spreadsheet has corrupted so I've lost all my PB data.
HI core

W nowt

Th - Fingerboard. half hour of board power. 60% HI core
Squash and badminton PM

Fri - family indecisive so just kept doing this and that throughout the morning - TRX low row and archer row. Pressups and dips, scap shrugs and power pulls.

Wife and eldest decided they didn't fancy any whole family options but nipper decided she fancied leading some routes at the Foundry. She has never led before, complete whim.

Warm up boulder up to L3 then between belay stints did a bit of core, bit of board, bit of campus depending where we were in the building. Managed 1-3-5 on both arms which is about the best I've ever managed.

S - Unexpected pass - Bit done in but headed to test out my dreamed up Ben's beta. Didn't work and couldn't work out a better way of doing THFML either so as-you-were. Felt weary, kept it short, must be fresh when I return.

Core

S rest

[Bradders]

I had just started to fire properly and was in my attempt, ten min rest, attempt etc.. redpoint cycle..

Just a thought, as this is a trap I feel I've often fallen into myself; ten minutes between attempts on a single move is probably too long in my experience. Often I'll have my best goes having two in quick (1-2 mins between max) succession. Ten mins is more like the sort of rest you might have if, for example, you fell off the top of Pit Problem having done 4/5 powerful moves.

[duncan]

STG: enjoy climbing (when I get the chance); try hard three times a week.
MTG: embrace sport-climbing, RP 7b+; classic sea-cliff (or similar) E5 before 7.06.2020.
LTG: Something Long, Hard and Free tbc

M - Brief session in Alien bloc. Offspring not psyched, fingers tweaky, knee sore, didn’t stay long. Shoulder strength: tick-tocks, handstands, side planks, asymmetric press-ups.
T - Shoulder strength; 10km brisk walking.
W - Shoulder strength. Train home. Started doing pull-us but felt frazzled and tired and binned this after a couple of sets.
T - Fingerboard ‘max.’ hangs (7 seconds at +7.5kg). Knee strength: high step-ups and single-leg mini-squats.
F - Pull-ups (up to 4 reps, +10g), 9km brisk walking.
S - Shoulder strength. Knee strength.
S - Fingerboard ‘max.’ hangs (7 seconds at +10kg). Knee strength.

A week of mainly attempting to occupy a 10 year-old whilst struck-down with a cold and a gum infection. One bonus of staying at my sister’s Scottish mansion is the rooms are big enough to practice our gymnastics. Offspring’s cartwheels and my handstands are progressing well. Knee still isn’t too happy with actual climbing but I don’t feel like I’m missing much. I’ve belatedly started to rehab. it rather than rest and hope. Alongside all this, the fingerboarding is going quite well.

With the probability of no climbing outdoors for another month I did the only rational thing and booked a Gîte below Céüse for the start of June (big birthday) and the hut in Pembroke for Easter.  Better start the endurance work fairly soon!  Also bought The White Cliff which I’ll try to do a proper review of at some point. Executive summary: up there with Peak Rock and Crusher’s Desert Spires as the best climbing coffee table books of recent years.

[yetix]

M: snowboarding, bench in evening
T: snowboarding
W: snowboarding, bench in evening
T: snowboarding
F: max hangs
S: rest
S: max hangs in am, alsmcliffe in the afternoon. Too windy for most stuff but managed to strap 5 pads together so they wouldn't blow away and get on underhand, could consistently get to the move to the last slot with both heels on, but didn't quit hit it right, could do from 3 moves in to the end consistently too. Hard to keep warm so probably didn't rest well at all. Will need to go back soon. Hopefully do quick and get on the keel

[tomtom]

I had just started to fire properly and was in my attempt, ten min rest, attempt etc.. redpoint cycle..

Just a thought, as this is a trap I feel I've often fallen into myself; ten minutes between attempts on a single move is probably too long in my experience. Often I'll have my best goes having two in quick (1-2 mins between max) succession. Ten mins is more like the sort of rest you might have if, for example, you fell off the top of Pit Problem having done 4/5 powerful moves.

Yes - absolutely (and thanks - I'd glossed over the details). I tend to have 2-3 attempts within a 'set' if the problem/move is short - with 1-2 min rest between attempts (depending on how much effort it involved). Then the ten min break. I was (frustratingly) on attempt 7 or 8 when it started raining. So right on peak form...

Its quite a hard problem to warm up for - using
(a) left arm deepish lock
(b) a fair bit of right crimp on that sidepull
(c) core (to keep it all together)
(d) pulling hard on that right heel (hamstring stuff).
So takes me a while to get into... some of that stuff only gets warmed up by trying the problem.

I was doing some pull ups on the iron bar sticking out of the shelterstone whilst it was raining to try and keep warm :D

[Yossarian]

Crusher’s Desert Spires as the best climbing coffee table books of recent years.

Is that related to this https://issuu.com/johnharlin/docs/gallwas_deserttowerscollection? I’m in serious need of some future inspiration - training / climbing has taken a complete nosedive since I started commuting...

[gollum]

M- Travelling back from Scotland.

T - Rehab weights session. Band pulls, rows, reverse flys, kettlebell concentration shoulder press, all building up to bench press which went pretty well with five reps at a weight greater than my pre injury warm up. Very chuffed with progress.
Physio session soon afterwards and am discharged, which feels liberating.
Go to Sheffield Depot and do a few reds and purples, get shut down by a few more. Once I got tired, could barely string three moves together regardless of grade.
It’s been six weeks since I tore something in my pec and was bruised from my wrist all the way to just above my waist and all the swelling and pain that went with it. In that time I’ve not been able to do very much at all, slowly building to do a bit more and I’ve eaten and drink way too much and had a skirmish with the black dog. I’m much heavier than I was and very unfit, but hopefully I can start to build again from here. Missed a trip and way behind on goals for the year, but onwards and upwards.

W- Go to Manchester Depot for a bit of a potter. Brand new reds that hurt my soft skin so bail to the blacks and just enjoying the movements.

T -  Pudsey in the evening with friends. A whole new bunch of wooden problems to play with. Quite a lot of success getting most of them done pretty quickly and a couple that will take a bit more energy although got the moves, then by last four problems was totally gassed and pulling on just felt hard as nails. Sure fitness will return as just do a bit more. It’s been quite a long break.

F - Rest day.

S - Back at Pudsey to see how well I’ve recovered from Thursday. Back on the woods problems. Ticked off all but one of the half dozen I had left and definitely feel like regaining the ability to try hard. A good session.

S - Rest day

A week still working through rehab. No pain whatsoever and some progress with the bouldering. Still restricting all the other exercise to keep strain low but reckon I will start to step it back up in a couple of weeks when I get back from boarding trip to Mayrhofen.

[tomtom]

Glad to hear the recovery process is going well Gollum. Sounds weird/Nasty what ever happened - and a bonus to be pain free now!

I wonder what I would do if I couldn’t climb (re black dog).... good to see you back in PC.

[gollum]

Cheers TT.

It’s good to be back

[JohnM]

Weight 10st2-3lb

M: Rest

T: Bouldering indoors + assisted one arm hangs on lower middle rung of Beastmaker -6kg x 5 and weighted two arm hangs on lower outer edges + 20kg x 5.

W: Long fast tempo run. 24.5km +907m height gain.

T: AM: Routes at KI. Warm-up and then 2 x 7cs. My aim is to do all the 7cs on the main wall as a base. 5 more to go. Hopefully the second 7c I did on Thursday was the hardest! PM: Minute on/off hill sprints. Brutal training that is not really enjoyable in anyway. I ended up further up the hill than previous sessions so think I have improved.

F: 0.5km 20% hill runs x 5. Got a PB for the hill (4'30") and moved up to the 8th best of all time on Strava. Still 50 seconds behind the leader though! Afterwards a run up to a hut in the forest and back down. 13.2km + 1066m height gain.

S: Climbing at Starkenbach. Fell off the 6b+ warm-up then tried to do a 7c i'd tried previously as a second warm-up putting the clips in. Got really pumped as putting the clips in involves lots of hard lock offs and trying to get the draws under the horrendous in-situ clips that need removing. Fell off the crux boulder at the top. Did the route second try and it felt like a path. Tried another 7c with a hard boulder though a roof at half height. The bolt above the crux is placed annoyingly out of reach and the other is a your feet providing a nasty fall. Failed to commit on the onsite and then forgot to extend the draw so wasted my second try doing that. 3rd try climbing easily though the crux and then fired off violently backwards though the air. I assumed a hold had broken but it turns out it was just wet. The seepage seems to come though at this crag later in the day once the sun goes off it.

S: Peak hill climbing training session before my first mountain ultra in 6 weeks. I basically spent 10 hours running/fast hiking up and down to 1500m on the mountain  behind my flat 5 times. This is kind of boring and is mentally as well as physically challenging but it the best way to maximise hill training without running many kilometers of flat between hills and avoiding snow. I also used it as an opportunity to train "time on feet" and nutrition. I tried eating proper food for the first time and stashed a bag with extra isotonic and a tupperware of gnocchi in the forest near the trail which I ate after the 3rd set. The gnocchi tasted great after only having gels/bars and was digested easily. Although I dropped 20 minutes on the 4th set with eating and being slower afterwards, I was pleased to come back strong on the 5th set and manage to go up and down in just over 2 hours, only a few minutes slower than my first. 53.5km + 4697m height gain.

A good week and the first for a while with no debilitating niggles and neck pain. I managed to do all the training sessions I wanted to and they all went as well or better than expected. I am still not as fit as I would like to be in climbing at this time of year but that is due to missing the best part of 2 months of proper climbing training over December and January and prioritizing running volume over climbing. However, I was pleased with how easily the climbs/cruxes I did do this week went down when I actually climbed the routes. I will drop the running volume now so should be able to increase the volume of climbing to increase the fitness as well. It was also good to get the maximum hill training/long day out running out of the way. It went really well and unless I get some kind of injury I am pretty sure I can grind out my first mountain ultra of the year in 6 weeks in a reasonable time.

[HarryBD]

Crap week at work, finished up a couple of projects that have been hanging around forever but didn't really feel good to get them out the way and now feel a bit directionless. Sleep was terrible as a result and motivation low in general.

T - Depot, got up my first yellow (don't think I've ever really had a go tbf) tried hard on some other stuff which is good. Ended up on the circuit board to finish off and could barely string 3 moves together on anything other than the easiest circuit without getting completely pumped.

S - L had vouchers for Betty's so got treated to breakfast in Ilkley and walked home over the moor. Amazing food. Blowy as but felt great to spend a good portion of the day outside and wasn't as far away as I thought.

S - Almscliff, wanted to give Great Western a go but wind had other ideas. Warmed up on some things on the wedge boulder then went to Black Wall as it was sunny and out the wind. Omnishambles on Black Wall, glassy skin meant I was gripping hard on JUGS, put all the wrong gear in all the handholds, got so pumped I can still feel it this morning. Lost all psyche and couldn't find anywhere hospitable so called it a day.

[SA Chris]

Black Wall can still be a grim old place even on the nicest of days.

[duncan]

Crusher’s Desert Spires as the best climbing coffee table books of recent years.

Is that related to this https://issuu.com/johnharlin/docs/gallwas_deserttowerscollection?

This. Doesn't appear to be available in the UK currently and it's north of £50 second hand. If you contacted Crusher directly he might be able to help. A trip to the SW US desert should be on all but the most diehard sport climber's bucket list. There looks to be some great bouldering too, although this would be missing the point to me.

I’m in serious need of some future inspiration - training / climbing has taken a complete nosedive since I started commuting...

At times like this, when aiming for a specific goal seems impossible, it's easy to jack it in completely. I find it helpful to accept that you've not going to improve but tell myself something is infinitely better than nothing. One session of trying hard a week will keep the tendons stiff, remind the muscles of their existence, and maintain the habit of exercise.


Good to have you back gollum. Looking forward to you making me feel like a total slacker again.

[spidermonkey09]

Black Wall has special pump inducing powers even in mint conditions!

M - Max hangs at 30kg. Felt desperate on the first few sets but warmed up into them.

T - SC wall. Decided to stay off the board and do some problems. Definitely better on the indoor style but shut down on some of the more comp-style ones that involved high heels etc.

W - Core. Another tick in the box just for doing it!

T - Max hangs. decided to add another plate and pleasingly completed the set. So much of this is neural adaption. Went to the Tower after and did a few 7a's which was pleasing considering I'd just done the hangs.

F - rest.

S - in the Peak with friends but freezing in the wind. Was keen to climb but couldn't make companions stand in the cold so went to Outside and bought a pulley instead for one armed hangs in the coming weeks.

S - forecast suggested a nice afternoon so hammered it back to the Peak for a session at Gardoms with Matt. Knocked off Marks Roof Original quickly after last sessions failure and started trying the 7B version. Bastard awkward finish; got up on the slopers a few times but didn't have the guns to lock them out. They aren't very sticky which doesn't help; perhaps due to popularity. Moved on to Soft on the G and did this reasonably quickly; what a strange problem. Play on Kidneystone was enjoyable. Did the stand start from the flake which is a good little 6b+ ish. Almost sorted the sequence from the low jug but it involves a bit of trickery and avoiding dabbing seems to be the crux. Good problem though. Finished off down on the edge having a look at Perfect Day Direct. Didn't have the guns to match the initial edge but think it would be ok when fresh.

Pleased to make the most of some sunshine and get out on Sunday. Feel broken today. More of the same this week before a weekend in the Lakes where god willing some dry rock will be found...

Thinking of mixing up the max hangs with one 2 arm and one arm session per week. Something that occurred to me when looking at the documentation that came with the pulley; how effective actually are they ; eg. if I attach 20kg to it does it actually take 20kg off? I tried reading the science but got confused.

[teestub]

Thinking of mixing up the max hangs with one 2 arm and one arm session per week. Something that occurred to me when looking at the documentation that came with the pulley; how effective actually are they ; eg. if I attach 20kg to it does it actually take 20kg off? I tried reading the science but got confused.

I’d recommend picking one to do for a couple of sessions a week for a block at a time, and then changing it up, so you get a decent volume of each max hang type in at once. Can also vary hold size for 2 arm (e.g using Micros rather than adding weight, or just a smaller hold with less weight).

I don’t think the frictional effects of the pulley are worth worrying about, as long as you are always using the same set up you can measure your own personal progress. FWIW the small petzl one I use at home seems to produce a negligible amount of friction.

[nai]

what a strange problem.
Play on Kidneystone was enjoyable. Did the stand start from the flake which is a good little 6b+ ish. Almost sorted the sequence from the low jug but it involves a bit of trickery and avoiding dabbing seems to be the crux.

I found SOTG pretty underwhelming
Be interested to know your trickery on Kidneystone, generally end up stumped

[spidermonkey09]

I’d recommend picking one to do for a couple of sessions a week for a block at a time, and then changing it up, so you get a decent volume of each max hang type in at once. Can also vary hold size for 2 arm (e.g using Micros rather than adding weight, or just a smaller hold with less weight).

I don’t think the frictional effects of the pulley are worth worrying about, as long as you are always using the same set up you can measure your own personal progress. FWIW the small petzl one I use at home seems to produce a negligible amount of friction.

Cheers, makes sense. I think I should hopefully get some reasonably quick gains from one armed hangs as I haven't ever trained them beyond a brief dabble with the CWP programme in my uni days!

Not worrying re pulley, more interested! This has probably been covered elsewhere on the forum but whats your view re one armed hangs front on or side on, with the shoulder either fully open or not?

[sdm]

Something that occurred to me when looking at the documentation that came with the pulley; how effective actually are they ; eg. if I attach 20kg to it does it actually take 20kg off? I tried reading the science but got confused.

It doesn't really matter as long as you are consistent. My home setup  is a single pulley with some retired climbing rope positioned so that you hang quite front on. My home beastmaker is also overhanging by 1°. The setup at the wall has a double pulley on a narrow cord, positioned for a more side on hanging position. The wall setup allows me to take off less weight but as long as you are consistent on each setup, it doesn't really matter unless you travel a lot and train on lots of different setups.

If you really want to know, you could test using some scales but I've never seen the point.

[spidermonkey09]

I found SOTG pretty underwhelming
Be interested to know your trickery on Kidneystone, generally end up stumped

Yeah, not a classic but as one move wonders go its quite a good one because the holds aren't grim and it doesn't trash your skin. Not 7B though!

Re Kidneystone, I think if one is tall enough to get left hand on the crimp before pulling on its way easier as this takes about 4 moves out of the sequence. I had right heel on the good edge, LF on shit edge in middle of roof, RH in jug, LH on obvious sloper. The foot becomes a heel toe once I pull on, then match sloper and do a few bumps of the LH across to crimp rail. Next bit is a work in progres but essentially: LF toe hook next to RF, and then a very tenuous RF heel in the starting jug hollow. Once this is on (only got it to stick once) I was planning on bouncing hands up to the jug flake maybe via a sloper.

Its a weird sequence and definitely easier if taller... 

[nai]

This has probably been covered elsewhere on the forum but whats your view re one armed hangs front on or side on, with the shoulder either fully open or not?

You climb (generally) front on so should really hang front on, while you're mostly trying to work your fingers there's a whole chain involved.
 
I started doing scap shrugs so that I can hang front on with an engaged shoulder, haven't quite reached the point that I can pull up into the engaged position yet but if you can hold it then you know that's not the weak point.

[nai]

I found SOTG pretty underwhelming
Be interested to know your trickery on Kidneystone, generally end up stumped

Yeah, not a classic but as one move wonders go its quite a good one because the holds aren't grim and it doesn't trash your skin. Not 7B though!

Re Kidneystone, I think if one is tall enough to get left hand on the crimp before pulling on its way easier as this takes about 4 moves out of the sequence. I had right heel on the good edge, LF on shit edge in middle of roof, RH in jug, LH on obvious sloper. The foot becomes a heel toe once I pull on, then match sloper and do a few bumps of the LH across to crimp rail. Next bit is a work in progres but essentially: LF toe hook next to RF, and then a very tenuous RF heel in the starting jug hollow. Once this is on (only got it to stick once) I was planning on bouncing hands up to the jug flake maybe via a sloper.

Its a weird sequence and definitely easier if taller... 

Cheers, think I've tried similar previously.  Far far easier if tall but then it's a KC problem isn't it so we can't use that as an excuse.

Careful with that Jug flake btw, bit of flex on it.

[SA Chris]

M - walk in park, travel home
T - 5 k lunch run
W - 8.5 k run. in evening. Minging weather, wish I'd done it at lunchtime. Wall session in evening. Motivation low, no craic, place pretty deserted.
T - Nothing
F - meant to run at lunch, but meeting overran.
S - Long run home. Sunny but howling wind. Took a detour into woods convinced I might find some boulders or crags. Surprisingly I did, need a damned good clean though. Took another detour on a path which disappeared, ended up in bog and clambering over deadfall. 24k
S - walk with kids, then 8km run in afternoon.

[teestub]

This has probably been covered elsewhere on the forum but whats your view re one armed hangs front on or side on, with the shoulder either fully open or not?

Has deffo been covered previously. I go side on as I want my fingers not my shoulders to be limiting factor when I’m fingerboarding. Can understand rationale for front on though.

[tomtom]

what a strange problem.
Play on Kidneystone was enjoyable. Did the stand start from the flake which is a good little 6b+ ish. Almost sorted the sequence from the low jug but it involves a bit of trickery and avoiding dabbing seems to be the crux.

I found SOTG pretty underwhelming
Be interested to know your trickery on Kidneystone, generally end up stumped

I find SOTG completely frustrating :D

[shark]

11.5-7 average 160.4lbs up 0.1lb

M.

T.AM Tor. Rainy. Cold. Just me. Standard. Hangs and THFML to warm up. Drip, drip, drip. Didn’t feel great. Lots of goes - too many - failing on throw move. Did a good link after holding pocket and pinch to holding high edge on on THFML but swung off. Spent after. Had a weird moment at end when ferrying stuff to car and one of my mats disappeared. Could only think that someone driving by had nicked it. Found it 30 yards away - must have blown over the road and cleared thorn bushes on the other side. Enthusiasm waning as progress is plateauing. Going to make a conscious effort next session of not getting too sucked in on throw move and getting spent on it so I can benefit from doing decent PE training links. If that doesn’t work I’ll take a break from it.
Eve. Assisted one armers and fingerboard recruitment hangs session

W.

T.

F. Morning. Tor. Miserable weather but good connies. Rationed myself on throw move but did less good links than Tuesday despite two rest days. Time to have a break from it and do something different for a while. Fuck knows what.

S.

S. PM Conscious I need to start upping volume tried to do a Bill Ramsey ‘go big’ day of cramming everything in. Foundry. Loads there not seen for a while so quite a bit of chatting. Started on campus board and felt a bit stronger on bigger moves and fast moves went well too. Also did well on hard Oak move on woodie even trying it off poor RH pinch. Moved to Wave. After a few attempts managed to get hard fluoro yellow with difficult to hold blob that I’d failed on last time. Flashed the fluoro pink to its right and quickly did the yellow to its right so that’s all the level 3s on steep bit. Ryan E pointed out the easier next level problems. Left and went on my systems board. Did ok on benchmarks but skin wearing thin. Tried ok PE circuit but too powered down. Did AeroCap 20/10s. Managed first set but faded at move 100 on second set. Went home. Intention was to do fingerboard and weights but sense prevailed and had a couple of glasses of wine instead.

In some ways a wasted week. With hindsight should have sacked off Bens last week and moved on to other stuff. Enjoyed my sessions unlocking the moves, trying hard and making progress. Being reliably dry has been a godsend with the awful weather. It definitely feels do-able long tern now as I’m kind of in overlapping thirds territory. All the moves individually now feel ok except the first of the new hard moves going out from the pocket and the pinch to the crimp. I assume this is the crux for everybody but for me I think especially hard it’s off my weakest arm (left) and weakest grip (a full crimp in the pocket) and also my contact strength is poor for getting and holding the crimp. All stuff I can train though. Don’t think it’s helped that I’ve hurt my shoulder trying it and whilst it’s improved it’s still not fully recovered. Overall feel I’ve gained some useful burl and core strength and got acclimatised to pulling on small painful holds going on it and getting outside has kept me reasonably sane.

Not sure what do with myself now. Need to keep working at getting snap/strength but also add in Endurance/Power Endurance. Indoors+dog walks in the Peak?, Magstone? eatswood? Work original right hand finish to Bens?

Right shoulder still cranky and is interrupting sleep.

Impressed with continued psyche here in the face of this long shit winter

[tomtom]

Not sure what do with myself now. Need to keep working at getting snap/strength but also add in Endurance/Power Endurance. Indoors+dog walks in the Peak?, Magstone? eatswood? Work original right hand finish to Bens?

Go climbing 4 times a week. If its wet go indoors.

Avoid Bens. Avoid deadhanging, avoid training at home.

[Bradders]

Not sure what do with myself now. Need to keep working at getting snap/strength but also add in Endurance/Power Endurance. Indoors+dog walks in the Peak?, Magstone? eatswood? Work original right hand finish to Bens?

Go climbing 4 times a week. If its wet go indoors.

Avoid Bens. Avoid deadhanging, avoid training at home.

This.

I mean, I'd always say do what you're psyched for, but going to the Tor in this weather sounds utterly grim and hardly helpful for psych, health, fitness or strength; just because the holds are dry doesn't mean it's a good idea to go. There's a reason you're always the only one there...

[yetix]

Not sure what do with myself now. Need to keep working at getting snap/strength but also add in Endurance/Power Endurance. Indoors+dog walks in the Peak?, Magstone? eatswood? Work original right hand finish to Bens?

Go climbing 4 times a week. If its wet go indoors.

Avoid Bens. Avoid deadhanging, avoid training at home.

Do new moves. Try new problems. Learn new things. Some new limit boulders (a few sessions), some new sub maximal problems (in a session)

Stop worrying about losing weight constantly and worry about getting stronger and more powerful for an extended period.

Maybe less replicas and more general moves when you get inside (I think like (?) Pete's comments long ago about doing lots of different problems on the moonboard rather than repeating a replica of the crux oak move over and over on your home board)

[Bradders]

Its quite a hard problem to warm up for

Yes, Trowbarrow as a whole is tricky to warm up. When I was working things like Pit and Vitruvian I always took a fingerboard to get the fingers recruited and then did things like Pit pulling on at the crimp, The Groove, the ramp traverse on the side. Ned's Problem is also good if you've not done that. And one of the better lines there Regular John seems to rarely get done but is awesome.

[Coops_13]

Windy cliff times. I’ve been at the Cliff and had a large alp kit pad acting like a kite whilst holding one of the extended straps (just to make a bouldering mat kite) - until it whipped around in the wind and thwacked me on the face knocking me over 😂 #karma

I once had to place a big rock on my pad as I did Silver Trout to stop in flying away - definitely an incentive not to fall!

[Coops_13]

Mon: Movement Baker. 15 boulders up to V2, 8 V3s, 3 V4s. Really good session, skin burning at the end. Skin seems to be limiting volume slightly more than wrist at the moment

Thu: DBC. Really good session. 9 boulders up to E+, 8 M-, 9 M. Tried a couple of M+ but above my pay grade atm. In middle of session I did 3* 10 second hangs on BM1K bottom edges. Felt hard but not overly sore on wrist. 8 pull-ups *3. Pressups on medicine ball either side (18 total). Shoulder symmetry band workout, 40lb shoulder press and 30lb bicep curls. Wrist curls 10lb supinated, 8lb pronated. Core workout (300 movements). Stretching to finish

Sat: Clear Creek Canyon - Cat Slab Boulders. Warmed up and tried a V5 cop-out finish to the classic V7 Into The Light. Really nice moves on lovely Gneiss holds. Skin and power lacking for the link but so good to be out nonetheless. Felt like I was able to try hard - my screeches appeared for the first time in five months...

[JohnM]

Quote from: spidermonkey09 on Today at 10:56:46 am
This has probably been covered elsewhere on the forum but whats your view re one armed hangs front on or side on, with the shoulder either fully open or not?

You climb (generally) front on so should really hang front on, while you're mostly trying to work your fingers there's a whole chain involved.
 
I started doing scap shrugs so that I can hang front on with an engaged shoulder, haven't quite reached the point that I can pull up into the engaged position yet but if you can hold it then you know that's not the weak point.

I also did these and can now hang front on with an engaged shoulder in quite a stable way. However, I find it a bit harder on the right arm as there seems to be some impingement issue in the shoulder when I hang in that position. What are people's thoughts on one armed dead hangs, front on but with a fully locked out shoulder. From what I have seen this seems to be a lot of people's method on the middle rung of the Beastmaker or the Lattice rung. I could barely hang in this position so failed even before my fingers had a chance to fail. I have got better at this but still struggle on the right arm because of the aforementioned impingement. What is the theory for hanging like this or is it just because most people who can hang one armed find it easier in this position? I thought fully locked out was bad for the elbow and shoulder?

[Bradders]

I thought the knowledge was just to use whichever is most comfortable for you.

My experience is that my arms are always the limiting factor in one arm hangs, so I've stopped bothering with them as a way to train finger strength, and there are probably better ways to train the relevant arm stability/strength?

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - fingers, garage session, quite strong. Some tests on the 9 mm edge one armed. Weights, abs.
Tue - rest.
Wed - rest.
Thu - barbell complex x5, tired.
Fri - rest.
Sat - 30" finishers, pull ups x4, clean and press x3 36 kg, trap bar DL x5 70 kg, trap bar hangs 130 kg.
Sun - boxing bag, weights.

[Bradders]

Spent first half of the week in Ireland visiting family. Felt good for having five days off although shame it rained the entire time.

M - rest, bit of a cold, plus knackered from a pretty harrowing journey during the storm on Sunday

T - see Monday, cold a bit worse. Did some stretching and elbow rehab.

W - feeling better. Went to a hotel gym. Dumbbell presses and 20-30 sec two arm lock offs at 90 and full. Then a few sets of military presses. Hadn't done these in ages but still very close to my previous max level.

T - travel back, much easier trip thankfully

F - Depot Pudsey. Power hour as short on time. Did a load of the new woods which feature some lovely new holds. Then tried three of my projects on the fifty, close on first one but stopper move still...stopping me on second and last one is just hard but did the moves.

S - morning yoga and stretching. Elbow rehab a few further times during the day plus a very windy walk.

S - Depot Pudsey. Good social project type session. Tried 3 oranges and got pretty close on all of them; they'll definitely go if I put the time in. Then on the fifty had one or two goes each on 7 problems from warm up to project; nearly did one project (one I was close to on Friday) and did another which turned out to be pretty easy really more like advanced warm up level in hindsight. Stopped before power out. Then did 30 mins of yoga in the evening.

[Dolly]

M teriyaki salmon with baby sweet corn green bean and various sprouts salad and toasted sesame oil dressing
T fusilli con zucchini limone e aioli
W Down in  London at m in laws pies with Swiss chard. Obvs brought my own Hendos
T baked sea bass with fennel  potatoes and garlic and white wine
F roasted aubergine with tahini yoghurt and pine nuts
S conchiglie with porcini in thyme and white wine
S home made pizzas anchovies capers garlic chilli scamorza affumicata . Massive savoury hit

[Fiend]

Top post, I bet you woke with a mouth feeling like  a fishmonger's arsehole after that pizza.

[Dolly]

God that’s so true

[Will Hunt]

No bastard mushrooms on that bastard pizza? Where's the bastarding umami?

[eastside]

Power club!

2/17 hangboard repeaters 1/2 crimp, sloper, pinch

2/18 - deadlift 135 x2 x5, front squat 65x3x5

2/19 - bench press 110 x3 x5, overhead press 55 x3 x5

2/20 - Happy Boulders - vb, 0, 1, 2, 3, 2, 4, 3, 2, 0
Trying Disco Diva v8 - fell off the Crux from the sit, did the Crux in isolation, fell off Crux again from sit, then punted off the start twice more
Trying Cue Ball v4- got spanked, can't remember my beta, bah

2/21 - rest

2/22- deadlift 145 x2 x5, front squat 67.5 x3 x5

2/23 - home wall with friends - v1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 2, 2, 2, 3, 4, 4, - feeling much stronger on the 45 now

[spidermonkey09]

Has deffo been covered previously. I go side on as I want my fingers not my shoulders to be limiting factor when I’m fingerboarding. Can understand rationale for front on though.

Did some of these last night as found this thread (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,29794.50.html) and was interested to see whether I have a bilateral deficit. Seems I do; the ratio is 1:1.75, which surprises me as I thought I would be well off the pace one armed. Did the one arm hangs front on mostly but would be interesting to see how much of a difference side on makes. The other interesting thing would be to decrease hold size and see what a difference it makes; I currently use a medium campus rung which has a slight incut, not sure how big it is but probably about 22mm? I find bottom outside on the BM2k a bit grim on my skin so wouldn't want to use that hold and obviously there is only one central slot so couldn't do 2arm hangs on that. Maybe time to get a new edge.

[SA Chris]

Happy Boulders

How's it looking in there these days? Some probs were looking pretty worn when i was there in 2004.

[Dolly]

No bastard mushrooms on that bastard pizza? Where's the bastarding umami?

Kin marmite pizza
What an idea

[sam_read]

Bit late with my entry for this week, I had the week off work however the weather was too iffy to make the journey from London to anywhere worth while, got a bit done indoors amongst the sucking and checking daily for cheap flights to Spain.

Mon - Nowt

Tue - 2 x 6a, 2 x 6a+, 2 x 6b, new 6C+ maybe 4th go after working the crux, crimpy 6c x 2, 6c+ first go repeat having unsighted previously. There seems to be a good batch of sustained crimpy routes in the high 6s at the wall at the moment.
Ring push up 10 x 4, Ring Fly 5 x 5

Wed - 6a+ x 2, 6b x 2, new 7a 2 attempts and failed, 6a+ x 2, 6b+ x 1 long rest (read eat a snickers) 6C+, different 7a 2 attempts failed, previous 7a clean ascent, sustained crimpy 6c 3 times back to back.

Thur - Nowt

Fri - Nowt

Sat - Visited a friend and did a session on his board, about 2.5 hours, did some good stuff up to V6ish. Body tension felt good on stretched out, foot on moves.

Sun - 6a x 4 then the wall go busy so board 4 x 4 all V3/4ish done twice on the left then right to mix it up. TRX Y & T 10 x 3

Not a bad week, though again not overly focused on training as much as climbing, I feel a bit stronger from regular volume and am enjoying just climbing too much!

Started a new job in Bournemouth this week so won't be getting much done as I'll be there all week before dropping down to twice a week, however got AL booked for a week in April then again in May so hopefully that will bring about some focus.

[Murph]

I’m a bit late too. Coops it’s great to hear that the power helps are coming back!

STG - get back into it and lose 7kgs
MTG - new 7
LTG - new 7C

M-
T-5k jog and kettlebell routine. Loads slower than I used to and loads lighter. 3 sets of 3 pull ups. I kid you not this was a challenge.
W-DOMS
T-works hour and a half to do most of the yellow 5A circuit. Couldn’t do them all too buggered.
F-
S-
S-works for 2 hours. Irn Bru 6A circuit managed 12 out of the 15 I tried.

Seriously off the pace but I’m sticking with it. A week before I only managed maybe 3 Irn Brus.

70.0->69.2kgs

[eastside]

Happy Boulders

How's it looking in there these days? Some probs were looking pretty worn when i was there in 2004.

Things keep breaking, it's sad. At the milks too. Action Figure broke recently, it's still v6 but now heinously sharp. Hulk, Gleaner, and Every color are still good. Acid Wash changes every year but it's still about the same grade. Things break, get reclimbed, break again. Rock is a plastic medium.

[eastside]

Things keep breaking, it's sad.

Although to be fair, it's still really fun. Sorry couldn't figure out how to edit and add that.

[SA Chris]

I thought Sads were round the corner

Surprised things break much at Buttermilks, though the rock was a bit more resilient.

[eastside]

I thought Sads were round the corner

Surprised things break much at Buttermilks, though the rock was a bit more resilient.

Oh yeah, they are! And some of the problems there are getting super polished too - Pow Pow for example, I almost think it's been poffed with how squeaky the crux holds are now.

And yes the milks do break on occasion. Suspended in Silence broke twice and is now v8 rather than v5, the start of Yayoi broke and is supposedly the same grade but I can't repeat it now, even Mandala has crumbled a little but still goes at the same grade.

Too many people climbing when the rock is still damp, even the granite is susceptible to breakage