[teestub]

This has probably been covered elsewhere on the forum but whats your view re one armed hangs front on or side on, with the shoulder either fully open or not?

Has deffo been covered previously. I go side on as I want my fingers not my shoulders to be limiting factor when I’m fingerboarding. Can understand rationale for front on though.

[tomtom]

what a strange problem.
Play on Kidneystone was enjoyable. Did the stand start from the flake which is a good little 6b+ ish. Almost sorted the sequence from the low jug but it involves a bit of trickery and avoiding dabbing seems to be the crux.

I found SOTG pretty underwhelming
Be interested to know your trickery on Kidneystone, generally end up stumped

I find SOTG completely frustrating :D

[shark]

11.5-7 average 160.4lbs up 0.1lb

M.

T.AM Tor. Rainy. Cold. Just me. Standard. Hangs and THFML to warm up. Drip, drip, drip. Didn’t feel great. Lots of goes - too many - failing on throw move. Did a good link after holding pocket and pinch to holding high edge on on THFML but swung off. Spent after. Had a weird moment at end when ferrying stuff to car and one of my mats disappeared. Could only think that someone driving by had nicked it. Found it 30 yards away - must have blown over the road and cleared thorn bushes on the other side. Enthusiasm waning as progress is plateauing. Going to make a conscious effort next session of not getting too sucked in on throw move and getting spent on it so I can benefit from doing decent PE training links. If that doesn’t work I’ll take a break from it.
Eve. Assisted one armers and fingerboard recruitment hangs session

W.

T.

F. Morning. Tor. Miserable weather but good connies. Rationed myself on throw move but did less good links than Tuesday despite two rest days. Time to have a break from it and do something different for a while. Fuck knows what.

S.

S. PM Conscious I need to start upping volume tried to do a Bill Ramsey ‘go big’ day of cramming everything in. Foundry. Loads there not seen for a while so quite a bit of chatting. Started on campus board and felt a bit stronger on bigger moves and fast moves went well too. Also did well on hard Oak move on woodie even trying it off poor RH pinch. Moved to Wave. After a few attempts managed to get hard fluoro yellow with difficult to hold blob that I’d failed on last time. Flashed the fluoro pink to its right and quickly did the yellow to its right so that’s all the level 3s on steep bit. Ryan E pointed out the easier next level problems. Left and went on my systems board. Did ok on benchmarks but skin wearing thin. Tried ok PE circuit but too powered down. Did AeroCap 20/10s. Managed first set but faded at move 100 on second set. Went home. Intention was to do fingerboard and weights but sense prevailed and had a couple of glasses of wine instead.

In some ways a wasted week. With hindsight should have sacked off Bens last week and moved on to other stuff. Enjoyed my sessions unlocking the moves, trying hard and making progress. Being reliably dry has been a godsend with the awful weather. It definitely feels do-able long tern now as I’m kind of in overlapping thirds territory. All the moves individually now feel ok except the first of the new hard moves going out from the pocket and the pinch to the crimp. I assume this is the crux for everybody but for me I think especially hard it’s off my weakest arm (left) and weakest grip (a full crimp in the pocket) and also my contact strength is poor for getting and holding the crimp. All stuff I can train though. Don’t think it’s helped that I’ve hurt my shoulder trying it and whilst it’s improved it’s still not fully recovered. Overall feel I’ve gained some useful burl and core strength and got acclimatised to pulling on small painful holds going on it and getting outside has kept me reasonably sane.

Not sure what do with myself now. Need to keep working at getting snap/strength but also add in Endurance/Power Endurance. Indoors+dog walks in the Peak?, Magstone? eatswood? Work original right hand finish to Bens?

Right shoulder still cranky and is interrupting sleep.

Impressed with continued psyche here in the face of this long shit winter

[tomtom]

Not sure what do with myself now. Need to keep working at getting snap/strength but also add in Endurance/Power Endurance. Indoors+dog walks in the Peak?, Magstone? eatswood? Work original right hand finish to Bens?

Go climbing 4 times a week. If its wet go indoors.

Avoid Bens. Avoid deadhanging, avoid training at home.

[Bradders]

Not sure what do with myself now. Need to keep working at getting snap/strength but also add in Endurance/Power Endurance. Indoors+dog walks in the Peak?, Magstone? eatswood? Work original right hand finish to Bens?

Go climbing 4 times a week. If its wet go indoors.

Avoid Bens. Avoid deadhanging, avoid training at home.

This.

I mean, I'd always say do what you're psyched for, but going to the Tor in this weather sounds utterly grim and hardly helpful for psych, health, fitness or strength; just because the holds are dry doesn't mean it's a good idea to go. There's a reason you're always the only one there...

[yetix]

Not sure what do with myself now. Need to keep working at getting snap/strength but also add in Endurance/Power Endurance. Indoors+dog walks in the Peak?, Magstone? eatswood? Work original right hand finish to Bens?

Go climbing 4 times a week. If its wet go indoors.

Avoid Bens. Avoid deadhanging, avoid training at home.

Do new moves. Try new problems. Learn new things. Some new limit boulders (a few sessions), some new sub maximal problems (in a session)

Stop worrying about losing weight constantly and worry about getting stronger and more powerful for an extended period.

Maybe less replicas and more general moves when you get inside (I think like (?) Pete's comments long ago about doing lots of different problems on the moonboard rather than repeating a replica of the crux oak move over and over on your home board)

[Bradders]

Its quite a hard problem to warm up for

Yes, Trowbarrow as a whole is tricky to warm up. When I was working things like Pit and Vitruvian I always took a fingerboard to get the fingers recruited and then did things like Pit pulling on at the crimp, The Groove, the ramp traverse on the side. Ned's Problem is also good if you've not done that. And one of the better lines there Regular John seems to rarely get done but is awesome.

[Coops_13]

Windy cliff times. I’ve been at the Cliff and had a large alp kit pad acting like a kite whilst holding one of the extended straps (just to make a bouldering mat kite) - until it whipped around in the wind and thwacked me on the face knocking me over 😂 #karma

I once had to place a big rock on my pad as I did Silver Trout to stop in flying away - definitely an incentive not to fall!

[Coops_13]

Mon: Movement Baker. 15 boulders up to V2, 8 V3s, 3 V4s. Really good session, skin burning at the end. Skin seems to be limiting volume slightly more than wrist at the moment

Thu: DBC. Really good session. 9 boulders up to E+, 8 M-, 9 M. Tried a couple of M+ but above my pay grade atm. In middle of session I did 3* 10 second hangs on BM1K bottom edges. Felt hard but not overly sore on wrist. 8 pull-ups *3. Pressups on medicine ball either side (18 total). Shoulder symmetry band workout, 40lb shoulder press and 30lb bicep curls. Wrist curls 10lb supinated, 8lb pronated. Core workout (300 movements). Stretching to finish

Sat: Clear Creek Canyon - Cat Slab Boulders. Warmed up and tried a V5 cop-out finish to the classic V7 Into The Light. Really nice moves on lovely Gneiss holds. Skin and power lacking for the link but so good to be out nonetheless. Felt like I was able to try hard - my screeches appeared for the first time in five months...

[JohnM]

Quote from: spidermonkey09 on Today at 10:56:46 am
This has probably been covered elsewhere on the forum but whats your view re one armed hangs front on or side on, with the shoulder either fully open or not?

You climb (generally) front on so should really hang front on, while you're mostly trying to work your fingers there's a whole chain involved.
 
I started doing scap shrugs so that I can hang front on with an engaged shoulder, haven't quite reached the point that I can pull up into the engaged position yet but if you can hold it then you know that's not the weak point.

I also did these and can now hang front on with an engaged shoulder in quite a stable way. However, I find it a bit harder on the right arm as there seems to be some impingement issue in the shoulder when I hang in that position. What are people's thoughts on one armed dead hangs, front on but with a fully locked out shoulder. From what I have seen this seems to be a lot of people's method on the middle rung of the Beastmaker or the Lattice rung. I could barely hang in this position so failed even before my fingers had a chance to fail. I have got better at this but still struggle on the right arm because of the aforementioned impingement. What is the theory for hanging like this or is it just because most people who can hang one armed find it easier in this position? I thought fully locked out was bad for the elbow and shoulder?

[Bradders]

I thought the knowledge was just to use whichever is most comfortable for you.

My experience is that my arms are always the limiting factor in one arm hangs, so I've stopped bothering with them as a way to train finger strength, and there are probably better ways to train the relevant arm stability/strength?

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - fingers, garage session, quite strong. Some tests on the 9 mm edge one armed. Weights, abs.
Tue - rest.
Wed - rest.
Thu - barbell complex x5, tired.
Fri - rest.
Sat - 30" finishers, pull ups x4, clean and press x3 36 kg, trap bar DL x5 70 kg, trap bar hangs 130 kg.
Sun - boxing bag, weights.

[Bradders]

Spent first half of the week in Ireland visiting family. Felt good for having five days off although shame it rained the entire time.

M - rest, bit of a cold, plus knackered from a pretty harrowing journey during the storm on Sunday

T - see Monday, cold a bit worse. Did some stretching and elbow rehab.

W - feeling better. Went to a hotel gym. Dumbbell presses and 20-30 sec two arm lock offs at 90 and full. Then a few sets of military presses. Hadn't done these in ages but still very close to my previous max level.

T - travel back, much easier trip thankfully

F - Depot Pudsey. Power hour as short on time. Did a load of the new woods which feature some lovely new holds. Then tried three of my projects on the fifty, close on first one but stopper move still...stopping me on second and last one is just hard but did the moves.

S - morning yoga and stretching. Elbow rehab a few further times during the day plus a very windy walk.

S - Depot Pudsey. Good social project type session. Tried 3 oranges and got pretty close on all of them; they'll definitely go if I put the time in. Then on the fifty had one or two goes each on 7 problems from warm up to project; nearly did one project (one I was close to on Friday) and did another which turned out to be pretty easy really more like advanced warm up level in hindsight. Stopped before power out. Then did 30 mins of yoga in the evening.

[Dolly]

M teriyaki salmon with baby sweet corn green bean and various sprouts salad and toasted sesame oil dressing
T fusilli con zucchini limone e aioli
W Down in  London at m in laws pies with Swiss chard. Obvs brought my own Hendos
T baked sea bass with fennel  potatoes and garlic and white wine
F roasted aubergine with tahini yoghurt and pine nuts
S conchiglie with porcini in thyme and white wine
S home made pizzas anchovies capers garlic chilli scamorza affumicata . Massive savoury hit

[Fiend]

Top post, I bet you woke with a mouth feeling like  a fishmonger's arsehole after that pizza.

[Dolly]

God that’s so true

[Will Hunt]

No bastard mushrooms on that bastard pizza? Where's the bastarding umami?

[eastside]

Power club!

2/17 hangboard repeaters 1/2 crimp, sloper, pinch

2/18 - deadlift 135 x2 x5, front squat 65x3x5

2/19 - bench press 110 x3 x5, overhead press 55 x3 x5

2/20 - Happy Boulders - vb, 0, 1, 2, 3, 2, 4, 3, 2, 0
Trying Disco Diva v8 - fell off the Crux from the sit, did the Crux in isolation, fell off Crux again from sit, then punted off the start twice more
Trying Cue Ball v4- got spanked, can't remember my beta, bah

2/21 - rest

2/22- deadlift 145 x2 x5, front squat 67.5 x3 x5

2/23 - home wall with friends - v1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 2, 2, 2, 3, 4, 4, - feeling much stronger on the 45 now

[spidermonkey09]

Has deffo been covered previously. I go side on as I want my fingers not my shoulders to be limiting factor when I’m fingerboarding. Can understand rationale for front on though.

Did some of these last night as found this thread (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,29794.50.html) and was interested to see whether I have a bilateral deficit. Seems I do; the ratio is 1:1.75, which surprises me as I thought I would be well off the pace one armed. Did the one arm hangs front on mostly but would be interesting to see how much of a difference side on makes. The other interesting thing would be to decrease hold size and see what a difference it makes; I currently use a medium campus rung which has a slight incut, not sure how big it is but probably about 22mm? I find bottom outside on the BM2k a bit grim on my skin so wouldn't want to use that hold and obviously there is only one central slot so couldn't do 2arm hangs on that. Maybe time to get a new edge.

[SA Chris]

Happy Boulders

How's it looking in there these days? Some probs were looking pretty worn when i was there in 2004.

[Dolly]

No bastard mushrooms on that bastard pizza? Where's the bastarding umami?

Kin marmite pizza
What an idea

[sam_read]

Bit late with my entry for this week, I had the week off work however the weather was too iffy to make the journey from London to anywhere worth while, got a bit done indoors amongst the sucking and checking daily for cheap flights to Spain.

Mon - Nowt

Tue - 2 x 6a, 2 x 6a+, 2 x 6b, new 6C+ maybe 4th go after working the crux, crimpy 6c x 2, 6c+ first go repeat having unsighted previously. There seems to be a good batch of sustained crimpy routes in the high 6s at the wall at the moment.
Ring push up 10 x 4, Ring Fly 5 x 5

Wed - 6a+ x 2, 6b x 2, new 7a 2 attempts and failed, 6a+ x 2, 6b+ x 1 long rest (read eat a snickers) 6C+, different 7a 2 attempts failed, previous 7a clean ascent, sustained crimpy 6c 3 times back to back.

Thur - Nowt

Fri - Nowt

Sat - Visited a friend and did a session on his board, about 2.5 hours, did some good stuff up to V6ish. Body tension felt good on stretched out, foot on moves.

Sun - 6a x 4 then the wall go busy so board 4 x 4 all V3/4ish done twice on the left then right to mix it up. TRX Y & T 10 x 3

Not a bad week, though again not overly focused on training as much as climbing, I feel a bit stronger from regular volume and am enjoying just climbing too much!

Started a new job in Bournemouth this week so won't be getting much done as I'll be there all week before dropping down to twice a week, however got AL booked for a week in April then again in May so hopefully that will bring about some focus.

[Murph]

I’m a bit late too. Coops it’s great to hear that the power helps are coming back!

STG - get back into it and lose 7kgs
MTG - new 7
LTG - new 7C

M-
T-5k jog and kettlebell routine. Loads slower than I used to and loads lighter. 3 sets of 3 pull ups. I kid you not this was a challenge.
W-DOMS
T-works hour and a half to do most of the yellow 5A circuit. Couldn’t do them all too buggered.
F-
S-
S-works for 2 hours. Irn Bru 6A circuit managed 12 out of the 15 I tried.

Seriously off the pace but I’m sticking with it. A week before I only managed maybe 3 Irn Brus.

70.0->69.2kgs

[eastside]

Happy Boulders

How's it looking in there these days? Some probs were looking pretty worn when i was there in 2004.

Things keep breaking, it's sad. At the milks too. Action Figure broke recently, it's still v6 but now heinously sharp. Hulk, Gleaner, and Every color are still good. Acid Wash changes every year but it's still about the same grade. Things break, get reclimbed, break again. Rock is a plastic medium.

[eastside]

Things keep breaking, it's sad.

Although to be fair, it's still really fun. Sorry couldn't figure out how to edit and add that.