[Fiend]

Like I said, nowadays I think it's mostly either a subset of "influencer" (or "competitive athlete"). Hence why some 9a+ climbers get the odd free shoe and some 8c+ climbers are full-time pro.

...

Have you seen SBC's insta following? Don't take it from me, take it from Jorg. Bear in mind that restrictions are temporary too.

Entertaining discussion from you and the rest of the Derbyshire Times Comments Section massive. It's a fair point about the lying spin, but then again surely that has to be the party line.

More pertinently though, it's probably a good thing that he's erring to being a pro-climber based on doing world class routes and getting meritocratic attention, rather than a vacuous influencer meekly obeying the rules whilst getting acclaim for fucking Lattice interviews or clickbait videos about The SICKEST INSANE Lockdown Training Project etc etc 

[Stu Littlefair]

More pertinently though, it's probably a good thing that he's erring to being a pro-climber based on doing world class routes and getting meritocratic attention

The hardest tick of them all

[cowboyhat]

AFAIK Buster is still out there; I'm sure my dad has got some SCAB placards left over from Orgreave if you want to meet him at the airport?

[shark]

Probably back now unless he managed to extend his visa

[cowboyhat]

Probably back now unless he managed to extend his visa

Apply for residency, then you can stay while it's being processed.

All the cyclists in Girona have done this.

[TobyD]

Bouldering wise Aidan Roberts in Rocklands was certainly not shit.

and then there's his campaign in the Lakes.... Superpowers, Outliers, the problems at Kentmere and Coppermines.

I didn't realise that devolution had reached the stage where the Lakes counted as bouldering abroad. Is it going to rejoin the EU as well?

[remus]

Little vid of the 9b FA, Furia de Jabali.

[Whatthedickens]

Definitely easier to be a pro for the 80's and 90's guys. Based on merit it'd need to be 8b+ onsight and 9b redpoint at least these days, obviously there's the social media route but that's totally immoral.

[webbo]

Definitely easier to be a pro for the 80's and 90's guys. Based on merit it'd need to be 8b+ onsight and 9b redpoint at least these days, obviously there's the social media route but that's totally immoral.

Name more than five 80’s or 90’s pro’s who got paid just for climbing.

[Fiend]

Little vid of the 9b FA, Furia de Jabali.

Nice. Bringing Rubicon-size nasties to the area.

[remus]

Nice. Bringing Rubicon-size nasties to the area.

Britain's finest export.

Tom did a little interview with Will about his trip:

[abarro81]

it'd need to be 8b+ onsight and 9b redpoint at least these days, .

Funny to see 8b+ os and 9b rp mentioned in the same post. People must suck at onsighting! I guess it's not very "in vogue" nowadays, despite ondras best efforts

[jwi]

Indeed!

[Fiend]

I'm sure the os-rp disparity used to be regarded as 2 letter grades i.e. 8c-9b which is not far off the above. Or 9a-9c at the very top.

[abarro81]

Yeah I guess so.

3-4 grades seems about right (e.g. 8b+ os and 9a/9a+ RP). Fits roughly with both personal experience and top-end all-rounders Ondra (4), Megos (3), Magnus (3?), with the odd outlier e.g. Patxi (2?). So 5 is only a "bit" specialist

...but...
Back when 8b+ first got onsighted there were only a couple of 9as in the world, and lots more people have onsighted b+ than climbed 9b. I don't think I'd have remarked on 8c/9b comparison - not many have o/s 8c - even if it's only 1 grade off. "Feels" very different in some way to me though, in a vague "level of eliteness" kind of way. I've belayed/watched multiple 8b+ onsights but never seen anyone do 9b (or even get close). Perhaps it just expresses my prejudices for onsighting/flashing, or that fact that my formative years in climbing were spent looking up to Patxi/Ramon/Yuji who are actually maybe disproportionately good at onsight and flash.

[Duma]

Has megos OS 9a+?

[remus]

Has megos OS 9a+?

No, 9a is still the max, Megos is on 2 and Ondra 3. Ondra's also flashed a 9a+.

[remus]

Footage of King Capella, the 9b+.

[Fiend]

Would that be better named as Capella Indirect Start??

[Duma]

Has megos OS 9a+?

No, 9a is still the max, Megos is on 2 and Ondra 3. Ondra's also flashed a 9a+.

So Megos is 4(RP - OS grade diff), same as Ondra then.

[Felix14]

Does that make mutation 9c?

[mrjonathanr]

Would that be better named as Capella Indirect Start??

A Capella, surely?

[Yossarian]

Would that be better named as Capella Indirect Start??

A Capella, surely?

Paella Salmonella

[tomtom]

Would that be better named as Capella Indirect Start??

A Capella, surely?

👏👏

Flat Capella.

[Wellsy]

Emiliano Capella?