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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: remus on February 05, 2020, 01:12:32 pm

Title: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: remus on February 05, 2020, 01:12:32 pm
Will bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: spidermonkey09 on February 05, 2020, 01:23:09 pm
Beast!
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: SA Chris on February 05, 2020, 01:30:32 pm
Surely IOC should give Olympic wildcards to comp climbers who tick a 9b outdoors?
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Fiend on February 05, 2020, 01:36:17 pm
Well that's a bloody good effort.

Always was giving off fun vibes when he got into IFSC semis or finals too.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: gme on February 05, 2020, 02:09:23 pm
Great news. Donít think heís being trying it long.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: shark on February 05, 2020, 02:15:09 pm
Will bosi has done La Capella, 9b.

How do you know? He posted on Instagram that he fell off the jugs at the top yesterday
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Bradders on February 05, 2020, 02:51:20 pm
Will bosi has done La Capella, 9b.

How do you know? He posted on Instagram that he fell off the jugs at the top yesterday

Video or it didn't happen  :-\ :lol:
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: teestub on February 05, 2020, 03:26:24 pm

Video or it didn't happen  :-\ :lol:

Canít believe Shark is calling out Bosi!  :lol:
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: nai on February 05, 2020, 03:30:48 pm
Doesn't remus work for Lattice who train/sponsor/work with Will?
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Doylo on February 05, 2020, 04:28:26 pm
Must be one of the quickest ascents of a 9b.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Will Hunt on February 05, 2020, 04:55:14 pm
Remus has used his Lattice data hoard to create a model that can perfectly predict how long it will take Climber X to complete Project Y. He doesn't need to hear from Bosi that he's done it; from the exact moment that Bosi decided to try it, Remus knew to the second when the chains would be clipped.

I heard that he once fed in the parameters for Shark climbing the Oak. Inside Lattice HQ the control panels start to flash manically, the banks of supercomputers begin to smoke and explode, sirens wail, the lights turn red, blast doors start to close. Megos runs in*.
"Ve haff an instability in ze core! It's going into meltdown! Shut it down, Remus, shut it down!"











*Why Megos? Because he has the German accent that this tale needs.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: SA Chris on February 05, 2020, 05:07:56 pm
I heard it was still computing the result. It kept getting to a certain line of code involving the string ending with HORN, then rebooting.




(i know shit all about computers and programming)
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: 36chambers on February 05, 2020, 05:47:26 pm
I heard it was still computing the result. It kept getting to a certain line of code involving the string ending with HORN, then rebooting.

there was actually a bug in the code and it's stuck in an infinite loop.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: shark on February 05, 2020, 05:49:36 pm

Video or it didn't happen  :-\ :lol:

Canít believe Shark is calling out Bosi!  :lol:

As if. This is a big tick. Just wanted to double check that remus hadn't misread his Instagram post.   
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: remus on February 05, 2020, 06:24:13 pm

Video or it didn't happen  :-\ :lol:

Canít believe Shark is calling out Bosi!  :lol:

As if. This is a big tick. Just wanted to double check that remus hadn't misread his Instagram post.

Heard it from Tom, I assume Will sent him a text.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: remus on February 05, 2020, 06:25:53 pm
Must be one of the quickest ascents of a 9b.

He's skipped 9a+ too! Such a boring grade anyway.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: jwi on February 05, 2020, 06:52:01 pm
3 days according to fanatic climbing. Must be the fastest ascent of a 9b ever by someone who's not Ondra. Not even Jacob Schubert has done one in less than a week.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: teestub on February 05, 2020, 09:41:45 pm
https://www.instagram.com/p/B8MW1F6pAs4/ Just for Shark's benefit.

What a monster!
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Doylo on February 06, 2020, 08:12:52 am
Only took 125 days less than Mcclureís 9b. I bet itís easier though  :fishing:
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: remus on February 06, 2020, 06:33:44 pm
Only took 125 days less than Mcclureís 9b. I bet itís easier though  :fishing:

Mutation is looking pretty tricky given how much time Will (and several other 9a beasts) have put in to it. I think it's fair to say Rainman isn't going to be soft.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Wood FT on February 06, 2020, 10:33:17 pm
Rainman will be repeated before Mutation in my (complete arse on armchair) opinion.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Andy F on February 06, 2020, 11:12:16 pm
Let's be honest, Mutation is 9a+. At least.

It's sat in the middle of the most popular hard sport crag close to the most climber populated city in the UK and no-one has repeated it in 22 years.

No locals, no visiting wads. No-one.

Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: spidermonkey09 on February 07, 2020, 08:37:25 am
Remember reading once that Sharma said Mutation was impossible for him; accurate or apocryphal?

I agree that Rainman is likely to get some attention from the beasts soon. Probably doesn't help Mutation's cause that that crux move simply looks a bit grim...
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Ru on February 07, 2020, 08:44:51 am
Probably doesn't help Mutation's cause that that crux move simply looks a bit grim...

Crux move is cool. The climbing above that is grim. Very small holds.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: spidermonkey09 on February 07, 2020, 08:49:27 am

Crux move is cool. The climbing above that is grim. Very small holds.

Makes sense. To be fair, sections of Rainman also look grim. Probably goes with the territory on hard UK routes.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: SA Chris on February 07, 2020, 09:00:37 am
Remember reading once that Sharma said Mutation was impossible for him; accurate or apocryphal?


Did he say why?
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Doylo on February 07, 2020, 09:24:12 am
Remember reading once that Sharma said Mutation was impossible for him; accurate or apocryphal?


Did he say why?

Far too fat. Definitely a route for feathers.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: James Malloch on February 07, 2020, 09:29:12 am
Rainman will be repeated before Mutation in my (complete arse on armchair) opinion.

Arenít a few people close to Mutation? Pete & Will?
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: SA Chris on February 07, 2020, 10:16:30 am
Remember reading once that Sharma said Mutation was impossible for him; accurate or apocryphal?


Did he say why?

Fuck, counts me out too, was going for the onsight this year.

Far too fat. Definitely a route for feathers.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 07, 2020, 11:38:57 am
I think it was because he realised it would require putting some time in and the hour he'd already spent at Raven tor was more than enough.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: JackPal on February 07, 2020, 12:23:40 pm

Rainman will be repeated before Mutation in my (complete arse on armchair) opinion.

Arenít a few people close to Mutation? Pete & Will?

Not Sure how close Bosi is or was, he gets to try very rarely, I do know he thought the crux was nails though, mutterings about harder than Practice of the Wild.

Pete hasn't done the boulder in one yet, how hard do you have to climb to get there? So not that close I guess that would mean, to be close surely you have to be on redpoint? He's a monster though and his drive to do something once it's on his radar is totally unrelenting.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: James Malloch on February 07, 2020, 01:01:58 pm

Rainman will be repeated before Mutation in my (complete arse on armchair) opinion.

Arenít a few people close to Mutation? Pete & Will?

Not Sure how close Bosi is or was, he gets to try very rarely, I do know he thought the crux was nails though, mutterings about harder than Practice of the Wild.

Pete hasn't done the boulder in one yet, how hard do you have to climb to get there? So not that close I guess that would mean, to be close surely you have to be on redpoint? He's a monster though and his drive to do something once it's on his radar is totally unrelenting.

Ah fair enough. I was chatting to someone at the wall whoíd said Pete was getting close. Be ace when it does get a repeat!
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: remus on February 07, 2020, 01:05:22 pm

Not Sure how close Bosi is or was, he gets to try very rarely, I do know he thought the crux was nails though, mutterings about harder than Practice of the Wild.

Pete hasn't done the boulder in one yet, how hard do you have to climb to get there? So not that close I guess that would mean, to be close surely you have to be on redpoint? He's a monster though and his drive to do something once it's on his radar is totally unrelenting.

I think Im right in saying Will was getting to the crux pretty reliably but hasn't stuck it yet. He's done the boulder in isolation though. From memory you climb most of evolution to get to the boulder problem.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: cheque on February 07, 2020, 04:38:58 pm
I believe the Sharma quote is "I will never climb this route". Open to interpretation.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: crimpinainteasy on February 16, 2020, 06:08:51 pm
I believe the Sharma quote is "I will never climb this route". Open to interpretation.

Does this mean that it's an enormous sandbag, probably closer to hard 9a+ than 9a?
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Ged on February 16, 2020, 09:31:01 pm
Or its really grim and he has no desire to ever do it.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: shark on February 16, 2020, 10:46:30 pm
Grimness is in the eye of the beholder
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