[abarro81]

Does anyone have any opinions on the advantages/disadvantages of different ways of adding weight (for bouldering, just a few kgs)?

[Dexter]

Vest
Pros:-
If it's well strapped it wont shake around very much (so doesn't throw off balance too much with big swings)
Usually the highest amount of variability in weight (allows you to mix it up more)
Distributes the weight across a large area
Pretty comfy to wear for a while if you get a half decent one
Cons:-
Hurts like a bitch if you fall onto your back on the weights (I usually put as many to the front as possible)
Sweaty as fuck (especially in summer)
Makes you even more top heavy than usual
Usually most expensive

Belt:
Pros:-
Most centrally distributed weight
Usually pretty cheap
easily stacked (if you want to add more)
Cons:-
Can move around a bit when climbing and throw you off balance
Weight is all focused in one area so affects certain moves a lot more than others
A bit uncomfortable to wear for longer amounts of time

Ankle:
Pros:-
Good core focus
Cheapest option
Cons:-
As with the belt the weight is all focused in one area so affects certain moves a lot more than others (particularly depending on foothold size)
Sometimes makes toe hooks easier (maybe this is a pro)
Makes some heel hooks really awkward


Personally I like to use a weight vest over belt and then occasionally add in ankle weights for a bit more of a core focus and to balance out the top heaviness of the vest

[Potash]

Ankles is kinder on your knees when you jump off. Speaking as a man with dodgy knees that is important for me.

[cheque]

A belt is the closest simulation of carrying gear on your harness if that’s what you’re training for.

[tomtom]

Double denim.

Wet for more gainzzz. 

[Dexter]

Isn't there a niche in the market for a weighted knee pad?

[gollum]

Ankle weights with both weights attached to make a belt always worked best for me and had lowest effect on centre of gravity, so was the most beneficial.

[Doylo]

I go ankle weights over weight vest for actual climbing. Easier to climb naturally, think weight vest more likely to be detrimental to your movement. Start off low though as it’s hard on your lower back. I went too heavy when I started and my back wasn’t happy. Ankle weights are incredible core training and obviously more  specific to actual climbing than other core stuff.

[36chambers]

Full body chain mail works best for me. There's also the added benefit of being ready for battle should the crusaders attack.

[teestub]

Deus vult!

[tomtom]

Full body chain mail works best for me. There's also the added benefit of being ready for battle should the crusaders attack.

Its a pig to look after though - and I always end up smelling of WD40...

[Paul B]

Ankle weights with both weights attached to make a belt always worked best for me and had lowest effect on centre of gravity, so was the most beneficial.

This is what I've used in the past and unlike other (divers?) belts I've seen/used it punishes your kidneys less when you get it wrong. With respect to movement, I remember discussing this on the forum a fair while ago (perhaps with Duncan) with respect to 'rate coding'. I think there was a paper where people had used weighted baseball bats or something similar which might be worth searching out.

Personally, I secretly want this:


 

[gme]

Fish, chips, beer.

Think Macro cycles not micro.

[abarro81]

Thanks all.

With respect to movement, I remember discussing this on the forum a fair while ago (perhaps with Duncan) with respect to 'rate coding'. I think there was a paper where people had used weighted baseball bats or something similar which might be worth searching out.

Yeah, I remember discussions along those lines. In the past I've generally only used it for exercises that don't really involve moving (hangs, pull-ups, foot-on-campus) for that kind of reason. At the moment though I'm finding it difficult to make my pocket problems at the Foundry harder, without making them either dead tweaky (fingers can't have that many goes on small monos) or much less "relevant" feeling, so was pondering adding a few kgs on my easier problems...

[Eddies]

I bought this 3kg weight belt a few months ago. Very comfy, can fall from the top of the wall with in on safely.
got a lil pocket in too, so can fit another two 0.5kg plates.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/adidas-3kg-Weighted-Belt-Unisex-Weightlifting-Zip-Sport-Activity/202381797663?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

[nai]

you can buy an Aldi vest for mot much more than that, might be starting to sell them off cheaper in stores now the NY fitness intentions have come to nothing
Takes 10kg but you can load up to 5kg just around the waist or on the front. Works pretty well for climbing loaded at the waist with the option to load it fully for conditioning stuff

[TobyD]

Thanks all.

With respect to movement, I remember discussing this on the forum a fair while ago (perhaps with Duncan) with respect to 'rate coding'. I think there was a paper where people had used weighted baseball bats or something similar which might be worth searching out.

Yeah, I remember discussions along those lines. In the past I've generally only used it for exercises that don't really involve moving (hangs, pull-ups, foot-on-campus) for that kind of reason. At the moment though I'm finding it difficult to make my pocket problems at the Foundry harder, without making them either dead tweaky (fingers can't have that many goes on small monos) or much less "relevant" feeling, so was pondering adding a few kgs on my easier problems...

If you have any back pain issues,  a vest might be wiser since a belt may be slightly more likely to put strain on your lower back. That said if it's only a couple of kilos it probably won't matter.  A belt seems like itd make your core work harder to keep your feet on,  possibly more benefit,  but at the slight risk of back.
This is obviously conjecture rather than hard science,  but I doubt that the science exists. 

[turnipturned]

I think ankle weights are a bit pointless useless your feet are coming off and swinging about (which if that’s you barrows you are probably not on the wall anymore  )

I use a weight belt, it alright but I think it’s makes your centre of gravity a bit weird and jumping around isn’t very nice.

I think a weight vest would be the better option, however, I don’t like how it pulls your shoulders down.

If you just want to add a small amount of weight, I have two 1kg ankle weights that I strap together to make a waist belt, they are quite soft to kind of mould to you..... but 2kg not really worth it!

[Doylo]

Not really pointless if you can do some of your harder stuff with 1kg on each leg. Feels pretty hard.  Cutlooses are nails yes.

[turnipturned]

Not really pointless if you can do some of your harder stuff with 1kg on each leg. Feels pretty hard.  Cutlooses are nails yes.

But if your feet aren’t coming off, I have never really found it’s worked my core, it’s just feels like you are putting holes in your boots and no really standing on the foot holds well.

I think somewhere like the school room where your feet are coming off and it’s feet follow hands is more useful.

[abarro81]

Sounds like some experimentation is in order.. would be for problems without cutting really (at least for what I was thinking of) so I'll try belt/ankle weights as a belt for starters..

[tomtom]

Shirley It’s about how far (horizontally) the weight is away from your lowest main point of contact.

So in a 40 for example, ankle weights will do nothing if the foot is on / but will work the core when moving your leg to a new foothold.

Conversely a weight vest will be 50cm or more away from the wall foot horizontally / so exert much more weight on the arms - but less on the core when it comes to moving the foot (than the foot weight).

Just like a scales - the further you move a weight from the pivot - the greater the pull down.

[Fultonius]

Just take immodium for a few days, then the extra kilos will be exactly where you want them.   

[Steve Crowe]

I used a pair of 2.2 kilo ankle weights around my waist, I’m sure they’ve got your name on them.

[Steve Crowe]

If a 50m climbing rope weighs about 2.5kg, that’s a lot of weight to drag up a 50m route