[Bradders]

I'd agree, if he was actually doing the move / any moves. Trying a move and not sticking it doesn't really train anything other than poor motor skills shirley?

When I try moves I can't do on the board, I tend to fail on them for ages, then I start tickling the hold, then it becomes low percentage, and hopefully eventually it becomes fairly steady. I think you can definitely get stronger trying an individual hard move, no?

More powerful / recruited; maybe. But, do you do anything else in those sessions, or just try that one move and then go home? I imagine you fit trying those "moves you can't do" within the structure of an overall session that involves doing moves you can do?

My point is that the best power and strength training is done somewhere around 80-100% of your maximum. If you can't do a move within a session then surely that indicates the move is over 100% of your max, in which case it's not a good way to train; it'd be far more beneficial to work on 3 or 4 move problems where it's stringing the moves together that's really hard, and it's a little bit easier doing them in isolation (i.e. they're still pretty hard but you can do them at least a couple of times in a session). And then go back every now and then to try the move you couldn't do to see if you're any closer.

I'm also absolutely not criticising the idea of training on outdoor boulders; I'm doing something very similar myself right now. I just think you need to actually do some moves in your session.

[Fiend]

Pfffft actually doing moves means you're totally underperforming, what next, chalkblowing during those moves??

[Bradders]

Anyway, thought I might get back involved with this thing as an outlet for a bit. I'm afraid it won't be all that interesting; fully intend to just go to Almscliff for a while as it's time efficient and reliable, and is as close to training as outdoor climbing gets.

M - really quick hit at Almscliff with my girlfriend. Arrived at the parking 1pm and walking out at 3pm as she was too cold in the strong breeze. Just climbed on Demon Wall Roof; did DWR, DBS, Stu's stand and DWR LH stand, then worked and did all the moves on Exorcist. Three goes from the start and was dropping move to big flat crimp.

T - rest

W - Eastby, t_stub and I with the crag to ourselves; a welcome relief from the crowds I imagine. Did some nice easy problems to get warm then had maybe 5/6 goes at Ill Gotten Gains. Got to the hard bit every go and basically ruled out 2 of the 3 beta options. Stopped when I pinged off as scared of splitting on that 'orrible crimp. Went over to Dead Babies and did it 2nd go. Scary at the top on slightly damp rock but a great route.

T - 20 mins of stretching at lunch

F - Almscliff; mint connies. Standard warm up on Demon Wall stuff then a load of goes on Exorcist. Dropped it 3/4 times with my hand on the big flat crimp, need to get tighter on matching.

S - rest, went for a walk and did some stretching

S - Almscliff; rubbish connies; humid and warm and only a gentle breeze. Super duper busy so Exorcist wasn't really an option. Got stuck into Stu's instead; have dabbled on various prior occasions but never had a full session before. Spent quite a while trying and failing on some beta I'd been given which turned out not to suit me. Eventually sussed it and had 4 proper goes from the start, 2x dropped the LH move to the face crimp and 2x heel popped going for the break. Skin very then by that point so finished with a quick mess around on The Keel.

Pretty worked after Sunday session; fair while spent trying to pull small holds closer together. Had a chance to finish Stu's off but couldn't quite get it over the line. Back on Wednesday.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - Push ups, legs, shoulders, pull ups.
Tue - weights.
Wed - fingers: back3, front3 hangs on 14 mm edge @100 kg x7; @95 kg x2. Pull ups + 10 kg in between. EMOM deadlift x10 (60 kg) + 1' overhead walk (30 kg) x 6 total. Beautiful session despite skin and tiredness from previous night's partying. 
Thu - boxing bag.
Fri - rest.
Sat - trap bar DL, pull ups, overhead walk. Beautiful session.
Sun - ab wheel, tabata session.

[shark]

I'd agree, if he was actually doing the move / any moves. Trying a move and not sticking it doesn't really train anything other than poor motor skills shirley?

Did the move today. Tweaked my beta after watching a couple of vids. Makes it a bit less Oak like unfortunately. Apart from that.... 

[Yossarian]

Mon - Wall. A generally much harder set on the wave section (my favourite) has meant that most wall trips over Xmas (of which there have been quite a few) have been sessioning problems rather than training / climbing on the board. Often feel a bit of regret if I skip the latter, but have actually really enjoyed every sessions. Daughter, freed from the shackles of squad training has been doing the same and is looking very strong.
T
W
Thurs - Same again, although we were joined by son on his 5th birthday for his first session. He had a great time, totally up for trying all sorts of stuff. Not quite as unproductive a session as I had feared.
F
Sat - Same again. Realised afterwards that I had basically sieged a single problem for over 2hrs, which has also been main focus on previous 3 / 4 visits. Will persevere for another session and then reboot a more organised approach to training.
Sun - Pulls / strength - Enjoyed Moonboard-maestro Hoesok Lee’s training vid the other day ( and so thought I would start some longer pull-up sessions. Being quite heavy currently (92-3kg ish) I did 10x10 focusing on different grip positions rather than assisted 1-arms or anything weighted. With the various inevitable challenges to training this year I want to work out some decent bang-for-the-buck routines that I can do when I can‘t make it to the wall. Also did some KB presses and various press-ups inc offset and narrow (nails).

London commute starting (started) Monday so trying to organise one night climbing in London and one down here. With some m ore of this stuff plus fingerboard, plus weekends, I should be ok for the short term. Need to drop 5kg before too long as well.