[yetix]

Damn!  First A2 in YEARS!

Very mild, ring finger on my right hand. I suspect doing a max hangs test session to "see where I'm at" plus a short but intense boulder session after (just a couple of problems, limit stuff, maybe 10 attempts in total after a couple of slightly less full on boulders).

Feels so mild/minor that I can probably take a short bit of rest and just avoid boning on it for a while but don't want to make it worse. My middle finger A2s are somewhat life-long chronically grumbly (and have a lump on the side of the RH one) but they never hurt while climbing, and generally get better with maintenance fingerboarding.

Any thoughts non rehabbing a very mild, but definitely "new" A2.

When did you notice initial symptoms?

When I woke up this morning. Got full ROM no pain but HC gives me a noticeable sensation at the A2. Probably not even a grade 1! Grade 0.4 strain 

I'd take 3 days off to let the initial inflammation sort itself before doing anything and then go from there personally. But I always take 3 days off if something feels like I might have injured it. I'm sure I've read before that it's 48-72 hours for inflammation to settle(think inflammation peaks at 1-3 days if I recall correctly)

Ideally don't mess with it at all during those 72 hours (I personally x tape during this period just because I have adhd and it reminds me not to poke it every 5 minutes)

If you're not certain see a physio 

[Fultonius]

Thanks. Aye, that was my rough plan. (especially the mot prodding/testing thing).

Just nipped out for a bacon roll to maximise rehab. 

[Fultonius]

A2 update. All going well.

Took 5/6 days off completely. No taping, no massage, no ice. Just rest and avoiding any pain.

Then I built up daily with 2 sessions of half crimp, just using enough load to get to the "sensation" point, without pain. Often this meant very low load on the first couple of reps. 10 reps of 10s hangs, twice a day.

I've been doing that since around Monday /Tuesday this week and I'm already up to around 80/90% BW on the big BM2k slots, strict half crimp with NO PAIN. I'm holding myself back as I know it can be easy to overdo it in the early stages. The first rep or 2 often feels a sensation then nothing on the next reps, no pain during the day. Most mornings there's a tiny bit of increased sensation but it goes away with a few hand squeezes. No swelling, not sore to touch.

On Thursday I did a 20 minute ARC session, no pain at all.

All in, very happy with progress - just need to keep taking it easy for a bit and I think all will be well!

[Fultonius]

Up to solid half crimp, bodyweight (80kg) on 20mm edge.

I've had 4 or 5 decent endurance sessions, slightly above ARC level. Little bit of bouldering, avoiding crimps. Both times I could feel it a little afterwords, but fine next day. I suspect I'm treading the line of "too much too soon", so trying to keep it sensible. I feel that this is probably the critical point - moving from controlled fingerboard to more variable climbing...

[Moo]

Sounds like it’s all headed in the right direction fult, just try to not to get over excited!!

I’ve always had good luck using the metolious squeeze balls for a finger rehab. They’re not gonna fix anything on their own obviously but I definitely think they help with the alignment of scar tissue and letting you get a few for where the injury is at in a safe way.

[Fultonius]

Sounds like it’s all headed in the right direction fult, just try to not to get over excited!!

The inevitable...

On Thursday I warmed up at the Propstore, the usual, progressively harder half crimp hangs on the fingerboard. 20mm & BW, fine. 10mm & BW, fine.  Did some recruitment pulls on a 21mm campus edge one handed, fine. No pain, totally solid.

So, decided to have a short, carful boulder session before some gym work. All went well. Had some feeling of sensation around the A2 after one problem but it went away in 10-15 seconds and didn't notice it at all for the rest of the session. Finished early after maybe 15-20 attempts at various problems. No pain all day.

Woke up next morning, A2 a bit stiff and sore    Kinda tender and noticeable all day, to be honest, almost as much as when I first hurt it....  Had to climb 3 wind turbines, so 150m of ladder climbing. Feltnit a bit, but probably mainly just from the square metal rungs.

This morning it was ok, a bit of sensation/soreness first few fist clenches. Tentatively built up to 80%ish BW half crimp on the board, noticeable mild sensation (still not really "pain"). Feeling ok all day.

Thought I'd fucked it, but probably ok. 

[Fiend]

Based on my generalised multiple injury management learning from guru Biscuit, I would say you might be okay with the day-after-day-after having a noticable drop in pain. Obviously ease off for a bit and, errr, try not to get over excited....