[SA Chris]

Cheers.

I'd like to go and see someone who is clued up about these things, but no climbing specialists in NE Scotland I know of.

[James Malloch]

Cheers.

I'd like to go and see someone who is clued up about these things, but no climbing specialists in NE Scotland I know of.

I’d really recommend Andy who specialises in Remote physio sessions.

I’ve not had an in-person appointment in a long time and unless I could be bothered to drive to see him I wouldn’t go anywhere else for climbing physio.

Caveat is that I do know him personally but it genuinely wouldn’t change my recommendation. He’s just great and being remote doesn’t detract from it in the slightest.

He has great after care too. Generally I’ve had one appointment which leads to some kind of write up and plan. Then any questions I have are all dealt with via email.

He makes cool splints too for climbing with pulley injuries.

https://www.processphysiotherapy.co.uk/

[SA Chris]

Excellent, doing it remotely had not crossed my mind for some reason. I'll get in touch.

[James Malloch]

Excellent, doing it remotely had not crossed my mind for some reason. I'll get in touch.

He’s been a saviour on our trip. So many sessions 😂

[mrjonathanr]

He’s a sound guy.

[MischaHY]

Cheers.

I'd like to go and see someone who is clued up about these things, but no climbing specialists in NE Scotland I know of.

I’d really recommend Andy who specialises in Remote physio sessions.

I’ve not had an in-person appointment in a long time and unless I could be bothered to drive to see him I wouldn’t go anywhere else for climbing physio.

Caveat is that I do know him personally but it genuinely wouldn’t change my recommendation. He’s just great and being remote doesn’t detract from it in the slightest.

He has great after care too. Generally I’ve had one appointment which leads to some kind of write up and plan. Then any questions I have are all dealt with via email.

He makes cool splints too for climbing with pulley injuries.

https://www.processphysiotherapy.co.uk/

Apparently also has a book coming out?! I had no idea. Looks ace. https://www.processphysiotherapy.co.uk/the-self-rehabbed-climber

[James Malloch]

Cheers.

I'd like to go and see someone who is clued up about these things, but no climbing specialists in NE Scotland I know of.

I’d really recommend Andy who specialises in Remote physio sessions.

I’ve not had an in-person appointment in a long time and unless I could be bothered to drive to see him I wouldn’t go anywhere else for climbing physio.

Caveat is that I do know him personally but it genuinely wouldn’t change my recommendation. He’s just great and being remote doesn’t detract from it in the slightest.

He has great after care too. Generally I’ve had one appointment which leads to some kind of write up and plan. Then any questions I have are all dealt with via email.

He makes cool splints too for climbing with pulley injuries.

https://www.processphysiotherapy.co.uk/

Apparently also has a book coming out?! I had no idea. Looks ace. https://www.processphysiotherapy.co.uk/the-self-rehabbed-climber

Yeah I’ve got one on order - I think it’ll be a nice thing to have to hand. He’s doing a bunch of sessions over at Kendal Wall in the next 2/3 months too - it’s a shame I’m away for most of them.

He took me on my first sport climbing session back in 2011 in El Chorro. Didn’t care that I’d not been before and was psyched to get out to Desplo despite it being September and 30+ degrees! Real nice guy.

[highrepute]

I also got one of those splints when I saw this James guy in Sheffield. He did explain where he was getting them from but I can't remember, perhaps it was this guy. Quite possible it was which would be a great endorsement.

Anyway, the splint seemed to really help. But this was my first pulley I jury so I've no reference point.

[James Malloch]

I also got one of those splints when I saw this James guy in Sheffield. He did explain where he was getting them from but I can't remember, perhaps it was this guy. Quite possible it was which would be a great endorsement.

Anyway, the splint seemed to really help. But this was my first pulley I jury so I've no reference point.

The type Andy makes are in his video here:

[Coops_13]

I've had my fair share of finger injuries including two ruptures. Best diagnosis is an ultrasound to identify whether and how much the tendon is lifting off the bone under load. For both, I've been wearing pulley ring 24/7 for min. four weeks. Pain in the ass and sore on the top of finger but helps a lot. I am actually at four weeks exactly today (seeing PT again on Monday so keeping on till then). Then wear pulley ring for min. four weeks after only when climbing.

I have a pulley ring like the one in that video for 24/7 wear but a different, thermoplastic pulley ring: https://rocknsport.square.site/  for climbing. It's lower profile so doesn't get in the way but it doesn't leave much room for your veins at the side of finger.

[James Malloch]

I've had my fair share of finger injuries including two ruptures. Best diagnosis is an ultrasound to identify whether and how much the tendon is lifting off the bone under load. For both, I've been wearing pulley ring 24/7 for min. four weeks. Pain in the ass and sore on the top of finger but helps a lot. I am actually at four weeks exactly today (seeing PT again on Monday so keeping on till then). Then wear pulley ring for min. four weeks after only when climbing.

I have a pulley ring like the one in that video for 24/7 wear but a different, thermoplastic pulley ring: https://rocknsport.square.site/  for climbing. It's lower profile so doesn't get in the way but it doesn't leave much room for your veins at the side of finger.

Not heard of those. No photos to see what they are like unfortunately.

I’m back wearing mine tomorrow after getting a tweak on a project (note to self, don’t try so hard).

Andy’s earlier versions were a bit better for me (little bit less bulky) but I also managed to snap quite a few so I think his current ones are a bit more heavy duty.

I’ve not actually used the newer ones as I bought them for our trip and haven’t needed one until now. But I used the old versions a lot last winter. Will report back on how this one is tomorrow.

[Coops_13]

I wear this 24/7: https://www.amazon.com/NiceClimbs-Pulley-Climbing-Finger-Splint/dp/B088MM4937

Approx. half way down the page in purple is the pulley ring (with tape) I wear while climbing: https://www.unionpt.com/climbing-finger-pulley-injury/

[James Malloch]

I wear this 24/7: https://www.amazon.com/NiceClimbs-Pulley-Climbing-Finger-Splint/dp/B088MM4937

Approx. half way down the page in purple is the pulley ring (with tape) I wear while climbing: https://www.unionpt.com/climbing-finger-pulley-injury/

Cheers. Interesting to see them 👍🏻

The one I have (whilst climbing) is similar to the one in your first link with lots of tight tape. But nothing the rest of the time (do some density hangs etc).

But My injuries have been pretty minor.

Current niggle is the A4 rather than A2. The ring should help a bit but obviously not a silver bullet.

I’m just hoping I get up my project first go tomorrow after dropping the last foot movements twice yesterday 

[Bradders]

I've had my fair share of finger injuries including two ruptures. Best diagnosis is an ultrasound to identify whether and how much the tendon is lifting off the bone under load. For both, I've been wearing pulley ring 24/7 for min. four weeks. Pain in the ass and sore on the top of finger but helps a lot. I am actually at four weeks exactly today (seeing PT again on Monday so keeping on till then). Then wear pulley ring for min. four weeks after only when climbing.

I have a pulley ring like the one in that video for 24/7 wear but a different, thermoplastic pulley ring: https://rocknsport.square.site/  for climbing. It's lower profile so doesn't get in the way but it doesn't leave much room for your veins at the side of finger.

Judging by your power club posts I'd say you've had a lot more than your fair share!!

Out of interest, have you ever injured the same pulley more than once?

[Coops_13]

I've had my fair share of finger injuries including two ruptures. Best diagnosis is an ultrasound to identify whether and how much the tendon is lifting off the bone under load. For both, I've been wearing pulley ring 24/7 for min. four weeks. Pain in the ass and sore on the top of finger but helps a lot. I am actually at four weeks exactly today (seeing PT again on Monday so keeping on till then). Then wear pulley ring for min. four weeks after only when climbing.

I have a pulley ring like the one in that video for 24/7 wear but a different, thermoplastic pulley ring: https://rocknsport.square.site/  for climbing. It's lower profile so doesn't get in the way but it doesn't leave much room for your veins at the side of finger.

Judging by your power club posts I'd say you've had a lot more than your fair share!!

Out of interest, have you ever injured the same pulley more than once?

Maybe from a niggles standpoint but not major injuries. Injured most pulleys at some point over past 10 years so who knows. Maybe I should get a tattoo on each pulley when I injure it to keep track 

[highrepute]

I also got one of those splints when I saw this James guy in Sheffield. He did explain where he was getting them from but I can't remember, perhaps it was this guy. Quite possible it was which would be a great endorsement.

Anyway, the splint seemed to really help. But this was my first pulley I jury so I've no reference point.

The type Andy makes are in his video here:

Yeah that's not the same. And the way it's used looks to be very different too.

I thought voklers paper had shown that H taping was better for protecting A2 than taping over the actual pulley?

[James Malloch]

I also got one of those splints when I saw this James guy in Sheffield. He did explain where he was getting them from but I can't remember, perhaps it was this guy. Quite possible it was which would be a great endorsement.

Anyway, the splint seemed to really help. But this was my first pulley I jury so I've no reference point.

The type Andy makes are in his video here:

Yeah that's not the same. And the way it's used looks to be very different too.

I thought voklers paper had shown that H taping was better for protecting A2 than taping over the actual pulley?

I‘ve no idea on which is better if I‘m honest. Never looked at Volkers stuff.

I know Andy is massively into the research/papers side so I‘d assume that this product is the results of plenty of research. I know that one benefit is that you can tape really tight without restricting blood flow too much. And that means the stretch/loosening of the tape is reduced too.

He says the below but no idea which type of taping it refers to.

Flexor Pulley Splints follow the same principles of taping, but provide much more support. It is possible to wear them for hours at a time, even when climbing (at the appropriate stage of rehab). They allow for adequate blood flow to the finger whilst providing effective support.

[Fultonius]

Damn!  First A2 in YEARS!

Very mild, ring finger on my right hand. I suspect doing a max hangs test session to "see where I'm at" plus a short but intense boulder session after (just a couple of problems, limit stuff, maybe 10 attempts in total after a couple of slightly less full on boulders).

Feels so mild/minor that I can probably take a short bit of rest and just avoid boning on it for a while but don't want to make it worse. My middle finger A2s are somewhat life-long chronically grumbly (and have a lump on the side of the RH one) but they never hurt while climbing, and generally get better with maintenance fingerboarding.

Any thoughts non rehabbing a very mild, but definitely "new" A2.

[Dingdong]

Damn!  First A2 in YEARS!

Very mild, ring finger on my right hand. I suspect doing a max hangs test session to "see where I'm at" plus a short but intense boulder session after (just a couple of problems, limit stuff, maybe 10 attempts in total after a couple of slightly less full on boulders).

Feels so mild/minor that I can probably take a short bit of rest and just avoid boning on it for a while but don't want to make it worse. My middle finger A2s are somewhat life-long chronically grumbly (and have a lump on the side of the RH one) but they never hurt while climbing, and generally get better with maintenance fingerboarding.

Any thoughts non rehabbing a very mild, but definitely "new" A2.

6 sets of 30 second density lifts, 1 minutes rest with a 20mm edge, starting with whatever weight feels like 3/10 pain maximum and slowly build that weight up. I do these as part of my warmup now as it’s basically free prehab. I do density hangs into fingerboard hangs and then I’m ready to climb.

[Wellsy]

Damn!  First A2 in YEARS!

Very mild, ring finger on my right hand. I suspect doing a max hangs test session to "see where I'm at" plus a short but intense boulder session after (just a couple of problems, limit stuff, maybe 10 attempts in total after a couple of slightly less full on boulders).

Feels so mild/minor that I can probably take a short bit of rest and just avoid boning on it for a while but don't want to make it worse. My middle finger A2s are somewhat life-long chronically grumbly (and have a lump on the side of the RH one) but they never hurt while climbing, and generally get better with maintenance fingerboarding.

Any thoughts non rehabbing a very mild, but definitely "new" A2.

6 sets of 30 second density lifts, 1 minutes rest with a 20mm edge, starting with whatever weight feels like 3/10 pain maximum and slowly build that weight up. I do these as part of my warmup now as it’s basically free prehab. I do density hangs into fingerboard hangs and then I’m ready to climb.

I also did this, 30 second lifts. Every day, really low intensity, slowly built up. Worked a treat.

[Dingdong]

Damn!  First A2 in YEARS!

Very mild, ring finger on my right hand. I suspect doing a max hangs test session to "see where I'm at" plus a short but intense boulder session after (just a couple of problems, limit stuff, maybe 10 attempts in total after a couple of slightly less full on boulders).

Feels so mild/minor that I can probably take a short bit of rest and just avoid boning on it for a while but don't want to make it worse. My middle finger A2s are somewhat life-long chronically grumbly (and have a lump on the side of the RH one) but they never hurt while climbing, and generally get better with maintenance fingerboarding.

Any thoughts non rehabbing a very mild, but definitely "new" A2.

6 sets of 30 second density lifts, 1 minutes rest with a 20mm edge, starting with whatever weight feels like 3/10 pain maximum and slowly build that weight up. I do these as part of my warmup now as it’s basically free prehab. I do density hangs into fingerboard hangs and then I’m ready to climb.

I also did this, 30 second lifts. Every day, really low intensity, slowly built up. Worked a treat.

I think this is pretty much the gold standard of A2 rehab other than maybe injecting BPC-157 between your fingers 

[yetix]

Damn!  First A2 in YEARS!

Very mild, ring finger on my right hand. I suspect doing a max hangs test session to "see where I'm at" plus a short but intense boulder session after (just a couple of problems, limit stuff, maybe 10 attempts in total after a couple of slightly less full on boulders).

Feels so mild/minor that I can probably take a short bit of rest and just avoid boning on it for a while but don't want to make it worse. My middle finger A2s are somewhat life-long chronically grumbly (and have a lump on the side of the RH one) but they never hurt while climbing, and generally get better with maintenance fingerboarding.

Any thoughts non rehabbing a very mild, but definitely "new" A2.

When did you notice initial symptoms?

[Fultonius]

Damn!  First A2 in YEARS!

Very mild, ring finger on my right hand. I suspect doing a max hangs test session to "see where I'm at" plus a short but intense boulder session after (just a couple of problems, limit stuff, maybe 10 attempts in total after a couple of slightly less full on boulders).

Feels so mild/minor that I can probably take a short bit of rest and just avoid boning on it for a while but don't want to make it worse. My middle finger A2s are somewhat life-long chronically grumbly (and have a lump on the side of the RH one) but they never hurt while climbing, and generally get better with maintenance fingerboarding.

Any thoughts non rehabbing a very mild, but definitely "new" A2.

When did you notice initial symptoms?

When I woke up this morning. Got full ROM no pain but HC gives me a noticeable sensation at the A2. Probably not even a grade 1! Grade 0.4 strain 

[M1V0]

I had a similarly minor sprain back in June. I went to Andy (Biscuit on here) - his advice was to tape it up and "mummify" the finger so that you can't half crimp on it. Open hand only when actually climbing. Then constant stretching and periodic open hand hangs to stimulate blood flow to the finger. Still took a few months before it felt okay (but then I was and still am in a state of chronic stress, so healing was pretty slow).

[Fultonius]

I had a similarly minor sprain back in June. I went to Andy (Biscuit on here) - his advice was to tape it up and "mummify" the finger so that you can't half crimp on it. Open hand only when actually climbing. Then constant stretching and periodic open hand hangs to stimulate blood flow to the finger. Still took a few months before it felt okay (but then I was and still am in a state of chronic stress, so healing was pretty slow).

I find this interesting and wonder if Andy/Biscuit is reading and can clarify? My understanding of A2s was that they had effectively no/very little blood supply, and that most of the repair and nutrients came from synovial fluid? And that the transport of this came through pressure cycles of loading/unloading, hence it being worth having a decent amount of protein digested in your system pre-training (something I had started doing regularly last year but come to think of it have totally slacked off on this year...)

I'm not shooting the messenger here - and it probably makes little difference to the rehab (except that I will remember to eat some mackerel pre session again!)