Got fed up trying to work out Moonboard app
Quote from: shark on December 16, 2019, 10:20:29 am Got fed up trying to work out Moonboard app Best way I've found:Turn the board on and give it a moment to start up, open the app, turn on bluetooth, try to light up a problem and the app will say you're not connected to a board, would you like to connect. Tap Yes and it should find the board and connectedit: assuming of course it's connecting that you're struggling with
T- Fingerboard. I wrote a post on here recently about how weak my fingers are and how I can’t fathom how people can hang anything but the big holds unassisted. On reflection I can’t complain really as I hardly ever do it. Did this session and mused that I don’t really know why I don’t as it doesn’t take too long and isn’t even that hard a session- I think part of the reason I’m not keen on it is it never feels like a big enough workout. Going to try and stick to it and finally see the benefits now.
Your ability to hold nothing but the largest holds would seem to tie in with your general climbing grade from what you report here?
Did this session and mused that I don’t really know why I don’t as it doesn’t take too long and isn’t even that hard a session- I think part of the reason I’m not keen on it is it never feels like a big enough workout. Going to try and stick to it and finally see the benefits now.
Cheers, yeah I need to get used to it. I do get that finger-fade and I use it to gauge when the session’s over. Part of the problem I had for years was that I didn’t use any kind of assistance to use smaller holds on the fingerboard so I wasn’t getting to that point at all. I’ve always found fingerboarding highly unsatisfying as it reminds me I’m weak, doesn’t feel like I’ve really done much after and I always hated that feeling of having sore/ tight forearms and nothing else. These days the last one doesn’t bother me at all and I don’t have the finger tweaks that used to put me off it either so I just need to get used to it and hope to gradually improve.It certainly corresponds to my current psyche for easy trad routes that for sure! I am basically still recovering from a massive list of injuries though and although my fingerboard performance is not far off what it was before I have climbed harder than I do on a week-to-week basis at the moment- I’ve redpointed 7a since my accident and in 2017 (pre-doomsday) I climbed 4 7A boulder problems and 3 7a+ sport routes, plus trad up to E2 and a lot of stuff in the grades just below that stuff. Far from the highest numbers in the world but possibly better than my fingerboarding ability would suggest? Depends on how you expect these things to correlate I suppose!
Hadn’t got that far - it was trying to get a list of easy popular problems.
Select a problem then swipe left and right to move on.
S: Keystone skiing. Lots of powder. > 50 inches have fallen in the last four days. Quick morning session as had to get back for a Christmas party. Managed 21.5k descent and 13 runs. Some deeeep blues on the back mountains and some nice steep blacks
Pain comes more from everyday tasks...
It really does feel like this is the most sustained period of shit climbing weather I've exerienced in the last 10 years or so...
I used to dislike fingerboarding for the same reason, doing hangs is boring and you don't feel like you do much. I added pull ups to the end of 8s hangs and it makes a much more interesting/ useful session, plus it feels challenging and you get a sweat on.
If you want your session to feel a bot more like you're 'doing something', I'd recommend the 'Integrated Strength' sessions from Bechtel's Logical Progression book. In essence you do a few sets, circuit style of a fingerboard hang, a strength exercise and a stretch, for example:Set 1: Half Crimp, One Leg Squat, Frog Stretch (repeated 3 times)Set 2: 3 Finger Drag, Overhead Press, Splits (repeated 3 times)Set 3: Sloper, Pull up, Hamstring Stretch (repeated 3 times)
Quote from: tomtom on December 16, 2019, 02:13:55 pmIt really does feel like this is the most sustained period of shit climbing weather I've exerienced in the last 10 years or so...Chin up! It always FEELS that way when the weather is so changeable and doesn't line up with your days off.
Yeah, still not quite as simple as knocking out a one-legged squat or the splits unfortunately!
Quote from: cheque on December 17, 2019, 11:26:31 amYeah, still not quite as simple as knocking out a one-legged squat or the splits unfortunately! No, but you could just do two legged squats, two legged weighted squats etc. You could also add press ups, one arm dumbbell shoulder press and dumbbell bent over rows as mentioned in the Crimpd App workouts. Flexibility, though obvious a tricky area, is still something to work on as well (as I don't and it's a detriment to my climbing)
Last night that meant a session spread over three hours of six progressive hangs with increasing weight and followed by three hangs at the heaviest weight until I was on the decline.