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Harcles Hill Quarry - new problems (Read 2919 times)

r-man

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Harcles Hill Quarry - new problems
October 08, 2004, 11:24:55 pm
Just been to Harcles Hill Small Quarry, did a couple of nice semi-eliminates up the arete on the right of the crag.  Technically they're eliminates, as there are good holds to the left, but the problems do follow an obvious line. Sorry, no 8cs, but I reckon they be sweeeeeet lil problems nonetheless...

Changed the names and grades, as I don't think connecting the sit-down start to the eliminate missing out the jug makes it much harder (there's a good rest in between), though it is still fun to connect them...

Tennis Players Beware (V5) - sitstart from the low jug right of the arete, move onto the arete using only holds on the arete (pinches and slopers, get away from that crack!) to acheieve a standing position. Finish on the jug at the top of the arete. (basically, climb the arete and only the arete) :up:

Arete Good Laugh (V3) - Start (or continue TPB) at the point where reaching for the jug becomes possible, and instead palm the underneath of the roof, move right hand further up the arete (but stay on the arete!), adjust feet and go for the very top...  :rocker:

Both nice little problems. I could be a bit out on the grade as I haven't been climbing at full strength for a while (bloody golfer's elbow :x ), but if you've got golfer's elbow in your left arm, these problems don't hurt.  :P  If you had tennis elbow, on the other hand...

Might post a little vid of the problem, as I just got a shiny new camera for my birthday. Watch this space. Go on, watch it.

Just added pictures in Places to visit...

Got another cool project on the go at that crag, but it might have to wait till my elbow's better. (do these things ever bloody heal?)

Quarried grit is where it's at. Word. Any word. Preferably one that makes sense.

Graeme

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#1 Harcles Hill Quarry - new problems
October 18, 2004, 01:01:32 pm
Is that the big arete of that E2?

r-man

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#2 Harcles Hill Quarry - new problems
October 18, 2004, 01:53:03 pm
Quote
Is that the big arete of that E2?


No, that's in the main quarry I presume. I'm talking about Harcles Hill small quarry, the one on the left just before the main one. There's a short piece of rock a few metres long. My problem is on the arete at the right.

..You actually done anything in the main quarry then? The top outs look horrible!

Graeme

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#3 Harcles Hill Quarry - new problems
October 18, 2004, 03:06:27 pm
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..You actually done anything in the main quarry then? The top outs look horrible!


I've soloed a few easy things in there, and did a HVS on the main wall with a rope dangled over the last 10-15ft, it was tres scary too. I did quite a bit of traveresing on the big overhanging buttress years ago before I knew better.

Still confused as to the exact location of your problem. Take it you mean on the right of the little buttress in the small quarry?

r-man

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#4 Harcles Hill Quarry - new problems
October 18, 2004, 03:27:20 pm
Yes, on the right of that buttress there is a small roof. The arete I'm talking about is the right arete of that roof. On the right hand side of that arete is a vertical crack. Down and right of the crack and arete is a low ledge. Sit start using the low ledge as the starting jug. Pull across onto the arete using a hold on the arete (there are only pinches and slopers). Carry on up the arete using whatever holds you can find on the arete (nothing to the right or left though).

Hopefully that makes sense?

Graeme

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#5 Harcles Hill Quarry - new problems
October 18, 2004, 03:29:04 pm
It will do if ever drag my arse up there to have look round again.

r-man

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#6 Harcles Hill Quarry - new problems
October 18, 2004, 03:30:29 pm
Well, if you do, let me know what you think... :)

 

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