[Mr E S Capegoat]

Dedicated too Heir ConstantComeback

Sunday- went to Harston In the drizzle and cleaned an old route of Andy’s. Old King Cole. T’was minging so felt like a nice day out. Just that and pair o’genes to go back for oh and DNA tsk.
Monday- terrible cold, sniffed first defence all day
Tuesday- same. Ranted at gangle about life, he loved it
Wednesday- 20 push ups, near respiratory failure on push day
Thursday- depot in day with daughter. Lots of fun. Climbed with heir constant comeback- burned him off as usual. Bumped into TT and some nice bloke from London way, who listened intently to my entirely coherent opinion on it all
Friday - gardening
Saturday- opened the door Fiend munching carrot tops like a fucking farmyard animal. Went to cratcliffe. More raw carrot tops munched. Put the gear in suicide wall direct to warm up. Hideous nauseating hot aches (god hates me) abseil dusted the holds on Genocide. 20 ish goes and  abseil to check hold position later managed to scrape over the top. Texted Mark20 on another banal matter (what had he been doing etc)  he downgraded it to e3 6b I’d say it’s more like e2 6a.

Roll on the weekend, less rain please.

[cheque]

Good effort cleaning at Harston Dan. I want to do the HVS there at some point if you need a belay when it's dry.

M- Rest.

T- My fortieth birthday. At one point I aimed to climb 8a by this point.  Went to the gym and rode the bike. Mainly an older demograophic in there on weekday daytimes it turns out and this was reflected by hits of the 80s on the sound system. Hoped to hit 15 minutes twice on my little fitness plan, managed 14:35 first time, 13:25 the second. Ate loads.

W- Rest.

T- Rest.

F- Awesome Walls. Either the AW crowd is getting cooler or I'm becoming assimilated (further) into the punterdom.   Didn't take the weight belt as I wanted to do technique drills and boost my confidence that I could tick way harder grades witout the belt than with it. Acheived the former and part of the latter.

S- Walked around the Wiltons (If you say it that way that sounds like a posh American holiday destination rather than quarries in Bolton with firing ranges in them)- never been there before. It's halfway between my house and my mate in the Lakes' so scoping out a venue I'll be visiting next year a bit was the motivation, plus it wasn't foggy over there. Took a bit of imagination to imagine Wilton 1 in good condition but 2 and 3 look pretty cool and I also found a vole.

Unfortunately I slipped on black ice walking out and fell on my arse for the first time since my accident. A comical luge-like slide took most of the momentum out but I strained my wrist a bit. 

S- Weights scheduled but my wrist hurt a lot so didn't go. Went to Cratcliffe to take some photos late afternoon.

Wrist feeling loads better today so hopefully resume normal service this week.

[T_B]

Hideous nauseating hot aches (god hates me) abseil dusted the holds on Genocide. 20 ish goes and  abseil to check hold position later managed to scrape over the top. Texted Mark20 on another banal matter (what had he been doing etc)  he downgraded it to e3 6b I’d say it’s more like e2 6a.

Ah, I thought that was you up there on Genocide. To be fair you weren't making it look like E2 6a 

[Mr E S Capegoat]

I’ve been known to flail worse on e2 6a’s. Anyway that was before I found out where the hold was. Let’s go with Mark’s e3 6a/b then.

[T_B]

E for on-sight innit. In this case, E representing the chance of hitting the break in the right place first go 

[Mr E S Capegoat]

Easier than King Kong

[andy popp]

went to Harston In the drizzle and cleaned an old route of Andy’s. Old King Cole.

How'd it look?

[Fiend]

E for on-sight innit. In this case, E representing the chance of hitting the break in the right place first go 

I told him that, the twat. And not hitting the ledge below when you don't hit the break.
It wasn't the most onsight onsight I've ever seen. Also they were baby carrots FFS, not all of us can guzzle sweeties more than our toddlers and get away with it.

[nai]

STG: Moonboard 7A, Font 7C
Spring 2020 Lime Font 7C.

M -
Fingerboard warmup at home. 10s F3 10mm for first time
Moonboard - managed a second 6C+, came closer on another couple and did all the moves of a 7A.
HI Core (Wipers, Dragons, L-Sit-Pullup, Ab wheel, reverse lever, lever progressions (or regressions as they seem to be atm))

T -
squat
hamstring curls
DL
Few Scap holds but had done some previous day too and didn't want to overdo it
pullups - 2 reps up to 90kg (BW 57kg)
TRX - low row, rev fly, T. Y, supermans.

w rest

th - Tried to get going but struggled (had been out night before), just did a bit of core in the end

F - warmed up and did a lot of procrasinating at home. Very indecisive, eventually decided to head out with binoculars to check crags from the road. kept driving past Baslow, Curbar, Froggatt, Burbage South, Secret Garden, Owler, Higgar and eventually landed at Barbage North an hour after leaving. Twat.
Headed to Terrace, bumped into Simon, would have nice to stop and chat about the Red but clock was now ticking. Unfortunately it was boiling which wasn't helpful for doing the first move. Calf cramped up every time I tried really hard on it.  Did the other moves.
Met up with Dolly and went to check Monochrome which was surprisngly dry, unfortunately since I last tried it, the span between the holds hasn't shortened and I haven't grown. Did better on it, just about well enough to justify another look.

S - Surprise pass. Ventured out with Pattsy, drove around a lot looking for dry crags, maybe our definitions of climable are different to others' but we struggled to find much. Tried some aretes at Stanton-in but no cigars

Decent session of Scapshrugs (think I did BW on R, which was surprise, but couldn't repeat for camera so not sure if I started semi-engaged), power pullups (+10kg), Ys, bit tweaky on Ts so sacked them, Reverse fly, low row, HI Core (dragons, WS Wipers, hanging ab crunch, lever progressions), OH Squats, Hamstring extension.

S nowt

[gollum]

M - A day in the Lakes running the Abraham’s Tea Round. A great day out and highly recommended. Much slower than we planned as about a third of the way in one of the group got really bad cramp on his legs which never really went away. It was a fantastic achievement on his part to actually get round.
Felt like an adventure as did more peaks in the dark than we planned and weather was grim at times. Of the ten peaks on the round, we did four in the dark and six where in the cloud line, so not a day for summit views.
Felt like I’d earned my pie and chips.

T - Rest day. Original plan was to go bouldering but discretion is the better part of valour.

W - Legs still tired but reckon I better go to Manchester Depot if I want to do this round of the competition. Manage to do pretty much what I would expect, so not a great day, not a bad day. Legs felt fine whilst climbing but sore again when I got home.

T - Evening session at the Depot. On the newish reds. Goal 1 is to do them in a session, don’t think I’ve done this before . Goal 2 is to flash as many as possible. Achieve goal 1 but fail to flash  3 problems, taking 2 goes on two and three on the other.  Do some other purple and yellow bits and pieces that I’ve done before. Solid enough session.

F - Bitterly cold. Original plan was Caley but decide to take the van up to Ilkley instead, then if it gets cold can retreat for a brew easily.
Had a cracking session on the Calf. Got up a few of my old benchmark problems and got long links on some others. A good place to relearn footwork and work on tension moves.
Weather was cold and conditions grippy. I was surprised that the Calf looked a bit neglected. I wondered whether it’s because there is no recent topo (we were using memory and Steve Rhodes’ guide), because if you wanted to climb that style you’d go on a board or it’s just not the in vogue place to go. I’ve spent many a happy session here and plan to have many more.

S - Weights day. Start with bench and feels good up to 90 for triples but 95 feels hard work. Move on to declines and call it at 90 as feels a bit niggly when lifting bar off the rack. Do some TRX flys which I always find hard. Then just squeeze a Swiss ball with arms outstretched for a few reps, which feels a good specific exercise. Finish with some kettlebell stability presses and some alternating front and lateral raises again with lots of control for stability. Think I may have a cold on its way, not surprising really as Mrs B has had one all week.
After lunch we go out for a steady 5k in the cold. Brrrrr!!!!!

S- Wake up feeling a bit grim do decide that the best thing to do is rest.

Reflected this week on why I train the way I do and do the things that I do and it is really pretty simple. I like to do it this way. It helps me with my battles with depression and anxiety, both of which are improving at the moment, but it is also a reaction to having a condition four years ago that could easily have proved fatal and took a long time to recover from physically. Hence, I will do what I can to squeeze every drop of life out of this old corporal entity that I have been gifted.

This week was a good week.

[Mr E S Capegoat]

went to Harston In the drizzle and cleaned an old route of Andy’s. Old King Cole.

How'd it look?

It looked like a neglected esoteric gem. Very scrittly with some snappy rock and not amazing gear. Reasonably clean now apart from the top. The bit that was slightly worrying would be reaching up to place the gear from the brittle flake low down. Had some one cleaned it up prior to the FA? Will defo go back at first opportunity- thanks mike (cheque) ✌️💗

Re Genocide- it was definitely carrot tops and turnip bottoms. I remember a crotch heated moam stripe having to be consumed to help Fiend?
I’m not convinced about ‘grading for the onsight’ on these bouldery little grit routes. The system doesn’t work well. Can imagine it went something like well that’s harder than reticent mass murderer so I’ll give it e6 plus could do with a cover shot etc etc. Anyway it’s prob e2 5b for lankmeisters like TB

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon -  some board climbing but was tired. Weights.
Tue - weighted carries.
Wed - rest.
Thu - PE problem 1 one foot + 8kg. Bar work, weights.
Fri - weights, loaded carries.
Sat - boxing bag. Exhausting.
Sun - farmer's walk. Tweaked my right knee again.

[tomtom]

I've three weeks of entries. In no particular order I have:

a. Turned 50
b. Been to Ullswater and not climbed at Carrock twice - but had lots of fun playing lego with the toddler (and occasionally dragging him outside)
c. Visited Dollys shed of ultimate power (for the first time)
d. Had a 'lads' weekend in Matlock - which started in a very gentile way with Lagers, Dolly and Plattsy and then morphed into a night out with my University friends (that turned very messy for them...)
e. Visited Wilton 3, 3 times and maybe got better at Rodins Requiem,
f. Visited Helsby Hilltop 2 times and worked all the moves overlapping on 'Tears in the rain'
g. Been to the Hull wall and played on the 35 three times
f. Been to the Depot in Manchester and played on the 50 two times.

No new ticks but bit of progress. But it has been raining alot.

[gollum]

a. Turned 50

Great stuff TT. Life really does begin at 50. Congrats

[andy popp]

Had some one cleaned it up prior to the FA?

Yes, it had certainly had at least some cleaning, but I didn't know by who. There was a bit of chalk on it, which was why I tried it. 

[nai]

d. Had a 'lads' weekend in Matlock Bakewell.

Nothing to do with point a. I'm sure 

And a belated Happy Birthday to cheque also

[Mr E S Capegoat]

Had some one cleaned it up prior to the FA?

Yes, it had certainly had at least some cleaning, but I didn't know by who. There was a bit of chalk on it, which was why I tried it.

I can imagine once you got to the pocket it was ok. Bet the move to it felt committing onsight. Lovely runnels at the top tho *

[shark]

11.2-4 Average 157.3

M.

T.

W.

T.

F. Nice day at last. Had some of Ben’s Bristol friends staying. Hoped their enthusiasm would rub off. Ferried them to Plantation. It was damp. Took them to Remergence. It was too warm and glassy. For me. Left them to it, saying I would do an FB session at home. I didn’t. Bumped into nai on way out

S. Bit hung over. Freezing fog. Took boys to Remergence. Pretty good connies but not good enough. Left them to it and went to the Tor. Never seen it so soggy. However bit I was interested in was dry. Had an enjoyable time unlocking two of the moves on Bens without kneebarring. Almost did the first and managed the second. Happy with that all things considered.

S. Hangover. Lots of leaf shovelling. Short AeroCap session on systems board 2 x sets of 20/10s. Eve Andy Pollitt appreciation evening. Good to catch up with Spider and Mike Owen - not seen them for an age

Spoilt by RRG. No psyche so ended up taking 10 days off. Warming back into it. Treat me gently

[galpinos]

Two more weeks of me being ill, kids being ill, work being all over the shop and builders going rogue.

I will climb again one day.

[SA Chris]

M - lunchtime weights  / conditioning session
T - treadmill - tempo session.
W - nowt
T - wall session. Felt OK, shoulder injury still on the cusp though
F - nowt
S - kids at panto, so bonus wall session in arvo. Always amazed at how much better i climb after a relatively relaxed morning, compared to evening session after work.
S - not much, helped at school Xmas Fair. Knackering