https://www.rokblok.de/post/fame-is-a-bitch
It is all very sad. I climbed with Said for a day about a week before he did TTT in Nice this autumn, and he was an absolute monster – displaying the kind of ability on strength-endurance routes that I would take to translate into 8c+/9a form. I also been climbing with him when he's been nowhere near close to that ability.
I've recently made the experience of just how damn close you can feel on something and still not be able to do it on the link. I've got no experience in the 9a range but recently spent 12 sessions trying to climb Migranya which is an 8b in Siurana and a similar style of route in that it's a power/power endurance type thing. Long story short despite having it wired and being able to do the individual moves and even make overlapping halves very smoothly, I still fell 8 times from the last hard move (post here for reference: https://www.facebook.com/MHawkerYates/posts/10218329835071032?__tn__=H-R) With this in mind I just cannot fathom how anyone could even begin to claim they'd done a route when multiple witnesses confirm that they couldn't even link it bolt to bolt. Even a slight drop in form and energy levels was enough to end my redpoint chances on any given day and I was getting maybe two good attempts per session. I don't believe in magic moments, unless the 'magic' is a tiny tiny margin which could be construed to conditions, psyche or just having that extra boost from a cheeky haribo. Apparently even Simpson could link the top bit solidly. My mate who only climbs around 8b+ has done all the moves bolt to bolt aside from the jump.
My current max is 8A, but last time I tried Cromlech Roof Crack I got shut down. If anyone had seen me on CRC that day, there is absolutely no way they would believe I was within 3 years of Diesel Power, let alone had already done it!Am I missing something here???
Quote from: jwi on December 09, 2019, 09:29:47 amIt is all very sad. I climbed with Said for a day about a week before he did TTT in Nice this autumn, and he was an absolute monster – displaying the kind of ability on strength-endurance routes that I would take to translate into 8c+/9a form. I also been climbing with him when he's been nowhere near close to that ability.Given the topic of this thread, I find this to be extremely interesting. I have heard a lot of people use the "he was strong, but no where near THAT strong" as something of a demonstration that various people could have fabricated ascents (we have even seen it in this thread). I have always been left in awe of peoples capacity to be so consistent with their climbing performance that it becomes a counterproof to other peoples claims when they see someone struggle on something 5< grades below their purported max! My current max is 8A, but last time I tried Cromlech Roof Crack I got shut down. If anyone had seen me on CRC that day, there is absolutely no way they would believe I was within 3 years of Diesel Power, let alone had already done it!I can absolutely see how someone could fluctuate wildly in their performance, given that I have done it myself. For me all it usually takes is sitting down and eating something and suddenly I can't pull on that thing I was getting close to earlier. Because of this I always dismiss anecdotal evidence of this kind as interesting but ultimately meaningless. Am I missing something here???
Quote from: AMorris on December 09, 2019, 10:35:04 amMy current max is 8A, but last time I tried Cromlech Roof Crack I got shut down. If anyone had seen me on CRC that day, there is absolutely no way they would believe I was within 3 years of Diesel Power, let alone had already done it!Am I missing something here???Yes, your ascent of DP is clearly fabricated, as is anything above 7b. Any evidence otherwise has clearly been created at Disney Industrial Light and Magic at massive expense**In case anyone has any doubt, this is a joke.
Quote from: MischaHY on December 09, 2019, 11:06:22 amI've recently made the experience of just how damn close you can feel on something and still not be able to do it on the link. I've got no experience in the 9a range but recently spent 12 sessions trying to climb Migranya which is an 8b in Siurana and a similar style of route in that it's a power/power endurance type thing. Long story short despite having it wired and being able to do the individual moves and even make overlapping halves very smoothly, I still fell 8 times from the last hard move (post here for reference: https://www.facebook.com/MHawkerYates/posts/10218329835071032?__tn__=H-R) With this in mind I just cannot fathom how anyone could even begin to claim they'd done a route when multiple witnesses confirm that they couldn't even link it bolt to bolt. Even a slight drop in form and energy levels was enough to end my redpoint chances on any given day and I was getting maybe two good attempts per session. I don't believe in magic moments, unless the 'magic' is a tiny tiny margin which could be construed to conditions, psyche or just having that extra boost from a cheeky haribo. Apparently even Simpson could link the top bit solidly. My mate who only climbs around 8b+ has done all the moves bolt to bolt aside from the jump.Maybe more ancap in the base phaze followed up with aero-pow but not over doing the anpow due to chance of lactic overload? Should see you up it. There’s a couple on here that might be able to help. Maybe not with Said’s marketing strategy though, process being more important than end result these days
Given the topic of this thread, I find this to be extremely interesting. I have heard a lot of people use the "he was strong, but no where near THAT strong" as something of a demonstration that various people could have fabricated ascents (we have even seen it in this thread).
I never believed Paul Robinson did Lucid Dreaming when I heard the story behind it. Utter bollocks.
Alas, I have always interpreted mystery belayer as "no, I couldn't be arsed in the end"
Not fair Pete, that was solid advice based on the seminal pdf