[Fiend]

JFC.

STG: Don't drown / dissolve in current weather.
MTG: Go to at least one brutal death metal gig a month.
LTG: Convince Cheetham to print UFKC on soft, quilted paper.

Mon - can't even remember.
Tue - ran 0.7 miles to gym, did a middling weights session. Lower body stuff was desperate on de-oxygenated legs and thus form was bad.
Wed - could barely move with sore back / DOMS. Attempted some routes at Awesome Walls Stockport. Had to re-warm up pelvis after each belay to even put my shoes on.
Thu - light stretching to try to gain some movement. Twinged something in my groin doing so.
Fri - could actually put pants and socks on first go, but now groin inhibitively sore. Some routes at Boardroom. Constant pain despite chewing paracetamols. Climbed terrible. 4 mixed grip deadhangs at the end, the climbing highlight of the week. Ingested / Within Destruction gig, some neck training for belay sessions.
Sat - light stretching and short stroll. After 15 mins I was almost walking without hobbling.
Sun - campussing and hanging at AWS, plenty of stretching in-between. Walking pretty much normally. Minor elbow soreness at end so will be careful.

More wank than a teenager discovering Pr0nhub. Attempting to kickstart some training energy / positivity by running to the gym ensured another week's set back. Thankfully not missing the mintest connies ever.

[yetix]

M rest
T lamp sessions at Trowbarrow, managed to dispatch Texas Hold Em and Rob got sent Vitrivian Man, Ste got close on a Texas Hold Em, class session!
W rest
T Gouther Crag, managed to flash Trevs Traverse whilst warming up and do Khukuri and Khukuri RH, Atom Smasher looked wet so left that for another time. J Masicus looked scary solo so after doing the bottom decided to leave it for another time. Went back to Trowbarrow on the way home, tried to do Pit Problem sit, could do the move in isolation but linking into it felt hard!
F max hangs and IYTs on the rings
S rest
S tried to go to Ultimate Warrior, was very wet so bailed to the cave on the way back, which was a little condensed, LF was wet so repeated rock atrocity which was a surprise and then tried the lower start with no success. LWH eventually dried out and did to the pillar start before feeling boxed.

[Mr E S Capegoat]

Re warm up pelvis wtf 🤣🤣🤣 don’t worry Matt I’ll pull the plug on it soon just for you.

[tomtom]

Is warm up pelvis like ‘going for a rest’ in the bogs at work? 😃🤷‍♂️

[moose]

Is warm up pelvis like ‘going for a rest’ in the bogs at work? 😃🤷‍♂️

Perhaps, but I've now found a name for my Elvis impersonation act... coming soon to a working mens club near you, "Warm-up Pelvis: Tribute to the King".

[tomtom]

Hmm. Fiend as an Elvis impersonator...?? Have to admit I’ve not seen him sing dance or rotate his pelvis - so can’t comment. I have seen some dire and some great Elvis tributes...

[Fiend]

Right you bunch of fit, healthy, skinny fuckers. It was a serious issue. Each time I belayed I'd seize up and have to mobilise my lower back and buttocks just to squat down and put my shoes on, before climbing - badly.

Now post some fucking power. You especially, GapeScrote  .

[teestub]

Was it possible to mobilise your buttocks yourself, or did that require third party assistance? 

[SA Chris]

M - not much i don't think.
T - likewise
W - Lunch Run - 7.23km. Evening bouldering - actually a good session, shoulder is definitely getting better.
T - lunch weights, hangs and conditioning at gym.
F - interval session on dreadmill. I hate them, but can feel the benefit.
S - nothing.
S - Short walk with kids in the rain.

[cheque]

M- Rest.

T- Fingerboard for the first time since March. Did the same session as then with pretty much exactly the same "scores". Pretty cool.

W- Gym, bike. My fitness building session of pedalling pretty fast (>80RPM) and increasing the resistance every minute. Managed 14 minutes, rest, then 13:25- exactly what I did last time. I was hoping to add a minute to each as per previous improvements but after a few weeks off I guess that was a bit too much to expect.

T- Rest.

F- Awesome Walls. Usually I bitch about this place every time I mention it (and not just on here)- it's bizarrely warm for such a cavernous building, the music's terrible, it's full of krelboynes, it's a quid more than the Foundry etc. but the bottom line is that there's masses of training value for me here. Obviously paying attention to indoor grades is the path to madness but whatever they call them there are currently no routes that I can breeze up 100% in my comfort zone (with the weight belt on), which is pretty cool. Did loads of pitches with the weight belt. There are three given 6a+ and I was determined to tick all of them- flashed one,  did another second go (of this session, I couldn't do it last time...) and had many goes at a red slopey one but didn't tick it.  Good session. This is the sort of volume session I want to start alternating with a technique-based one which I'll "pilot" next week.

S- Rest.

S- Weights at the gym. Usual stuff, some better than before, some worse, some the same. Got the standing-on-BOSU-ball-holding-kettle-bells-in-each-hand going again (I've now learnt that it's called "farmer's hold") which is a cool exercise. Went for a very muddy walk to Chatsworth Edge (currently out of condition in case anyone was wondering  ) and Dobb Edge, the latter I'd never been to before. Scrambled up a very short Mod descent route in my approach shoes at Dobb like a total badman.

Back on the training for real after two weeks gap. Four sessions in the same pattern I was doing last winter. It'll be tougher to stick to this year as I visit my ailing parents at least once a week now but I have faith in myself.

[Coops_13]

M: Hotel Gym. 10 mins bike then first upper body workout in 2.5 months. Found a machine to do as close to a pull-up as possible, some kind of seated row. Pectoral fly, press-ups. Finished with some leg press and stretching

T
W

T: 50 press-ups at home, some pain.
Movement Baker. Top-roping to test wrist. O/S all I tried up to 5.10d. 5.10d same difficulty as 5.6 due to being tired near top. Pain on holds smaller than jugs too early for this…

F

S: Breckenridge skiing. 14 downhills, 17k descent. New top speed of 47.7mph

S: Apartment gym. 50 pull-ups and 50 press-ups with some stretching and chest cables also involved

Wrist still not great, getting a second opinion in a couple of weeks. Got some squeezy putty and going to start trying to load hand with portable fingerboard held by my feet (with cord)

[nai]

STG: Moonboard 7A, Font 7C
Spring 2020 Lime Font 7C.

Warning - overdetailed summaries of bog-standard days out follow

M -
Newstones to warm up, absolutely boiling in the sun, did a few problems up and down, first time I topped out found the tops still soaking and slippery.  Headed to Gib
Gib - Straight on Stall, in wind and shade, perfect. For a moment thought I was going to do it first go. Didn't but had an even better second attempt before regrressing and couldn't get anywhere near for about 10 tries. Started to doubt my sequence and tried some alternatives before realising I just had to try a bit harder.  Relieved to complete it, been a bit if a nemesis.

Tried Fin SS having done the stand last week. Strange lack of wind just 10 metres right and left wall in the sun,  Worked out the bottom and climbed to the move for the pocket on the stand but couldn't make myself go for it, wondering whether the top (and pocket) was wet like at Newstones, with the ground sloping away and without a burly spotter like last week I bottled it and headed away.

After much debate headed to Rowtor, thinking Yoghurt Hypnotist would be catching the wind.  It was and the problem itself was mint but on a shimmy along the Chip Shop Mantle break I could feel water and mud oozing through fingers. There was no chance of finishing it so headed around the corner, I was hoping to try Domes but that was also wet so tried Short Sean's without the block, came up just short on the slap to the runnel time after time.

T - Warmed up at home and headed to Froggatt. Straight to Stottie, spent a while an age stuck on the same move, a slap to a decent edge high on the arete, could get the distance and beyond but just couldn't stick it. Trashed my hands a bit on the process.  Had to call it a day, quick look at Bullitt on the way out, couple of decent attempts but came up just short and was just making skin worse so headed home.
Core

W rest

Th -
Baslow. Stopped off at square block to try the 6A that I've never managed, the second hold is out of reach for me with feet still on the start footholds and despite it being a 2/3 joint incut I'd labelled it morpho and never thought to simply pop for it.  Obviously popping for it is fine and despite being nine grades below my target for the day I was strangely pleased to complete it.
Main aim was Flatworld, felt like a decent session tickling the top sidepull a couple of times, haven't tried it for years so can't remember previous attempts but not sure I ever even reached the lower intermediate.  Maybe a bit fresher with better skin....
Headed to Curbar to see if I could work out new beta on the end of LMI but couldn't so reworked what I did from last year, didn't quite manage the move but reasoned it'd be ok fresher
Had 15 minutes on Jihad just before leaving, almost did the big slap. Again, if fresher....

Fri
Conditioning
Scap shrugs - managed to initiate a pull at 95% BW and get into position, hold and reverse at BW.
Pullups @ 120% BW
Hamstring extension
Squats, proper ones, on two legs, with weight. Find them hard, not so much on the legs but can feel the core buckling with just 50% BW. And as for overheads  think I managed 5%.
Deadlift @ 120% BW
KB swings

Good week, lots of ground work done despite a lack of successes.

[Sasquatch]

Winter is finally upon us here in AK, so back to organized training.   
Jan Goal - 20mm 155lb pull, up 5.12 down 5.11 x 3, 3x4xv8 AnCap sets
Mar Goal - 20mm 165lb pull, up 5.13- down 5.11 x 3, 3x4xv9 AnCap sets
May Goal - Send Spotted Dick Project (5.14b-d ish)
Oct Goal - Send Niffleheim Project (v14ish)

Monday - Travel
Tuesday - v10 and v11 projecting followed by v7 AnCap set, Recruitment hangs in PM
Wednesday - AeroCap - 3 x18min (up5.12-, d5.10+), PM - Density Hangs
Thursday - Short MB session for fun w Friends
Friday - Travel for Work
Saturday  - Exhausted from travel.  Projecting in AM two new v10's, Jammed left middle finger bad enough to have to stop for the day
Sunday - Roped session, WU- 5.10,5.11, 5.11+  Then 2 x 5.12-, then worked new 13(3 hangs). then to older 5.13(felt all over the place w bad beta.), 5.12, back on older 5.13 (much better with good beta), then 15min up 5.12, down 5.10+, U5.11+, down 5.10+, Up 5.12. finger feeling better.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - fingers, garage. Strong. Bar work in between hangs. Clean and press, deadlift, farmer's. Very good.
Tue - rest.
Wed - weights, various complexes, loaded carries.
Thu - standing ab wheel progression, bar work on BM. One foot bouldering on PE 1 + 8kg, + 2kg. Strong. Muscle snatch, clean and press, 5x5.
Fri - rest.
Sat - trap bar deadlift (60%), pull ups opposite pyramids 12-1.
Sun - board climbing, set a new problem, did it in two halves. It was hard. Two laps on a 7b+/c at the end.

[shark]

11.2-3 Average 157.1

M. Went to the Zoo. Did a couple of straightforward but good warmups at 11a and 11b. Keith then onsighted the short and steep Scar Tissue 12a. I fell off on the crux then had two abortive redpoints getting past the crux at the top but being too pumped to do a simple and short pop from one slopey jug to the next with the chain by my nose

T. The feted Funk Rock City. Felt more of a wilderness experience away from the climber-owned crags with their signs, emergency phones and waiver forms. Warmed up on a slab then ended up doing a desperate sequence following the guidebook description (not 11b that way) on the Eye of the Needle – great route. Then did the even greater Prime Directive 11b up an amazing arete with exposed and technical climbing at the top. One of the absolute standout routes of the trip. There goes the Neighbourhood was a superb 11c wall climb left of Orange Juice. Was tired but had a go at the five star Infidel 11d at the end of the day. Got pumped faffing at the top and took the ride. Had a rest then went to the belay and stripped it.

W Travelling

T Travelling

F

S

S

Superb holiday. Read another novel.  I frigged or climbed 61 routes over 12.5 days – all high on quality and generally low on grade. The grading felt generally stern with more sandbags than soft touches with my lack of stamina and basic pulling strength catching me out on the steeper routes when the jugs ran out.

It’s been a downer coming back especially to this dank weather. Still struggling with jet lag / sleeping. Taking a break before recommencing climbing and training.

Surprised I haven’t put on weight as we were shovelling down the carbs whilst away.

After a lot of soul searching decided not to take up an offer of employment which was due to start in January.   

[Rob F]

2Oak20!!!!!

[tomtom]

Good effort Shark. Fuck work.
👍👍

[Nibile]

Dave Mac is very proud of you.
Now it's time to write a note to your beloved one:
"Sell the house. Sell the car. Sell the kids. Find someone else. I'm never coming back. Forget it!"

[gollum]

M - Travelled to Albarracin for a few days. Arrive around 4:30 and head up to the crag to get a feel for the place. Bleeding freezing and hands couldn’t get going but it was great to be back on rock.

T - A great day. Spent the morning at Parking and the afternoon at La Fuente. Getting reacquainted with how to stand on footholds outside and topping out, with both skills coming along nicely. Get lots of volume done in the high sixes and have a half hearted attempt at one seven and a much less half hearted attempt on another, not quiet there yet.

W - Albarracin at the Arrastadero sector. Just great to be out doing stuff. Again lots of volume in the sixes and a good go at failing on a seven. The whole group did lots. When it got cold we retreated back to Parking sector and did a load more problems including some much more fingery stuff that was good to do at the end of the day.

T- Last day of climbing in Albarracin. Climb in the Cabrerizo rector and do lots of fairly high sixes in the morning. Spend an hour at the don Pepo roof area and do Techo don Pepo in a couple of goes and flash the traverse. Very much my style of climbing. Finish the trip off with a bit of pottering in the Entreguas area.
A great trip and has felt good to get outside again.

F - Long journey home. Had a fantastic trip. Started to get into the groove by the end of it.

S - one of my two weights sessions this week. Bench press for triples up to a solid 90, then do the same on decline and incline. Then move on to do neutral grip ultra slow dumbbell presses, with a light weight. Really good engagement of the muscle and focus. On to some shoulder work with strict single arm presses, lateral raises and front raises. To finish I drop the weight right down for single arm lateral raises with a long pause at the top and do the same for front raises. Good session.

S - Pulling day. Start with machine pull downs up to 140k for two reps. Move on to deadlift and 150k feels pretty steady  moving with good speed. Then dynamic rows, shrugs and Roman chair. Some prone rows and some iron cross movement and hold on the cables. Finally do some bicep work with a range of curls, although right arm feels really stiff where the tear is. Great d session mind.

A really good week and the fire is back in my belly for getting stuff done outside.

[cheque]

the fire is back in my belly for getting stuff done outside.

 

[Duma]

Warning - overdetailed summaries of bog-standard days out follow

That's what I'm here for!

Sounds like a good trip shark.
And gollum, though if I'd just retired I'd be spending a lot longer at albarracin than that!

[gollum]

 

You are right, we are going back in January for a week.

[Fiend]

And gollum, though if I'd just retired I'd be spending a lot longer at albarracin than that!

He had to rush back for another day of gym push-pulls for 3 hours, an hour lunchtime run, some afternoon campussing and hangs, and 3 hours of circuits at The Depot....

Nai, that thing on the Baslow Square Stone is an utter morpho bastard and more like 7A than 6A.

[nai]

Nai, that thing on the Baslow Square Stone is an utter morpho bastard and more like 7A than 6A.

Well done for making it that far.

I'd always thought that but 8 weeks of moonboarding has made it possible. So glad I've not been wasting my time.