[galpinos]

Matt, by all means go and do one of these problems some time. Then your opinion may be worth more than nothing.

As you've now starting downgrading problems I've done, I would agree that they are soft for the taller gent (and probably very soft the tall and light gent).

Alliance - Always been a soft touch if you can span, I assume it kept it's grade as it's high and impossible for the short. I enjoyed it though.
Monochrome - With good beta it feels fine, I climbed it when not getting up other 7Bs so probably soft but "stronger" people than me were struggling. Regardless of grade, it is a fantastic problem.
Boyager - I haven't been on this but it's on my list for this winter. Grade seems to fluctuate and from feedback it seems to flatter the taller climber.

So, you seem to be finding problems that favour the taller climber easier than the grade. Quelle surprise?

[nai]

Look, I find stuff totally piss all the time. The trick is to just to muster up a toothy grin, a wry shake of the head, and then take the grade.

Now can this be logpiled

[Will Hunt]

Matt, by all means go and do one of these problems some time. Then your opinion may be worth more than nothing.

As you've now starting downgrading problems I've done, I would agree that they are soft for the taller gent (and probably very soft the tall and light gent).

Alliance - Always been a soft touch if you can span, I assume it kept it's grade as it's high and impossible for the short. I enjoyed it though.
Monochrome - With good beta it feels fine, I climbed it when not getting up other 7Bs so probably soft but "stronger" people than me were struggling. Regardless of grade, it is a fantastic problem.
Boyager - I haven't been on this but it's on my list for this winter. Grade seems to fluctuate and from feedback it seems to flatter the taller climber.

So, you seem to be finding problems that favour the taller climber easier than the grade. Quelle surprise?

Those are just the three problems I did on Saturday.
I said Boyager depends entirely on what you can do with your heels and whether you can clamp both sides from the off. To me it felt like a 6C+, maybe 7A. Other people in our group found it much harder because they have tiny arms. Hardly surprising.

Monochrome. I looked back through some old threads on here from around the time it was done. I'm certainly not the first to suggest it's easier than 7B. It's less than a decade old and has probably cleaned up and had its beta refined loads since the FA. Hardly surprising if people are suggesting downgrades. I think it would probably be 7A+ if it was in Font. The grade isn't that far out.

The Alliance. Morpho in the extreme. No downgrade suggested.


I do think that Fiend's whitterings have blown this out of all proportion. If anybody actually cares enough to list out the problems where I've suggested the grade is seriously out, you'll probably find that there's not that many of them and that the problems are generally newish or have had a new sequence found on them or have cleaned up significantly since the FA. Moreover, if you look at comments on UKC you'll find that other people are saying exactly the same thing, just not on this particular forum.

[galpinos]

The Alliance. Morpho in the extreme. No downgrade suggested.

And that's the one I thought everyone thinks is soft (if you have the span)

I do think that Fiend's whitterings have blown this out of all proportion.

I think everyone is just enjoying taking the piss/niggling to be fair.

[Fiend]

Will, the way you phrased things in Power Club does suggest you enjoy keeping the ball rolling.........

[Will Hunt]

Hmmm. You bumped this thread after I posted a jokey write up of a day out in Power Club. I thought this was an act of mercy to break up the drudgery of the usual litany of max hangs and kettle bell routines. Maybe you've taken it too seriously?

This thread should really have been logpiled on page one.

[SA Chris]

Well it's all making sense. FWIW The Ondra is 5'11" and 70kg-ish fighting weight with his chunky big-waller legs, and at least 2" of the extra height is neck length so hardly a reach advantage.

This made me lol.

On this subject, Will is clearly not massively tall (by my standards anyway) but how is the ape index?

[Rob F]

Ha ha ha- just found a website that "helps shorter folk find climbs in Fontainebleau to suit them"

Obviously not being heightist I shall not be sharing the URL, but shall make for very interesting reading as to what goes up and what goes down...

[dunnyg]

I think will should have his height/ape index in his profile to reduce the asking of this question. Can the mods make this happen?

[tomtom]

Dunny- why not have another poll to decide what Wills ape index is? 😃

[dunnyg]

Maybe by bird type....

[Duma]

Not sure this is the right place but it (and the scarf) made me laugh:

https://www.instagram.com/p/B81yBBklVGY/?igshid=ut2lsgk9cem8

(Red was given 8A and Fuoco di Paglia 8A+/B)

[Bradders]

Haha nice, shots fired! Tagging the FA in the post as well 

[Rob F]

Bout time this thread was sent to the logpile. It's been well over a week since Will downgraded anything...

[teestub]

Bout time this thread was sent to the logpile. It's been well over a week since Will downgraded anything...

I reckon he’s probably got a few in the can for Almscliff he’s keeping until someone notes that they did a problem:

“Pistol Whip, I thought more 6C+ myself as it’s certainly easier than my 7A FA Pistachios Are Not The Only Nut at Windy Choss Clough”

[Will Hunt]

Who told you about Windy Choss Clough?
 

[galpinos]

Not sure this is the right place but it (and the scarf) made me laugh:

https://www.instagram.com/p/B81yBBklVGY/?igshid=ut2lsgk9cem8

(Red was given 8A and Fuoco di Paglia 8A+/B)

Scarf has a big "Stu Littlefair flashing Alta*" vibe from the old OTE Font Guide.

*I think it was Alta, it's a while since I looked at the guide.