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St Bees Knowledge (Read 2599 times)

Moo

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St Bees Knowledge
July 03, 2009, 01:57:52 pm
yo check this link out

http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=96155606761

dont be shy drop in your info.

Will Hunt

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#1 Re: St Bees Knowledge
February 24, 2020, 01:24:35 pm
There's a cop out finish described for Yellow Desert Scream. I've not been before; is it really obvious what is the cop out and what is proper? Online videos seem to vary but all are labelled as YDS. Some monkey across to the ledge bit with their hands, some people put their feet on the ledge. Not sure if anyone eschews ki completely?

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#2 Re: St Bees Knowledge
February 24, 2020, 03:00:00 pm
I did what the first (green t-shirt) bloke does in this video :-

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=2&v=DsVPCPQZwx0&feature=emb_title

Felt about 7A from (distant) memory and I'd always thought I'd mistakenly done the cop-out version. I think what green t-shirt tries to do in an earlier attempt (keeping right hand on arete) might be the correct way of doing things, but I'll wait for Nige/Greg/someone with more knowledge to confirm. I think second bloke (yellow t-shirt) just traverses off.

Will Hunt

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#3 Re: St Bees Knowledge
February 24, 2020, 03:32:17 pm
Green t-shirt looks legit to me. He doesn't seem to use the ledge, just a high foothold on the wall. That must be fair, surely.
Looking a bit closer (didn't see it at first), yellow t-shirt's ascent is actually captioned as the cop-out.

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#4 Re: St Bees Knowledge
February 24, 2020, 03:46:19 pm
My logic was based on a couple of things. Firstly, YDS used to get 7B (or maybe +?), which what I did clearly wasn't. Secondly, you aren't climbing the arete - you do two moves up the arete then drift left and top out 2 or 3 feet left of the arete. Like I said, Nige would know for certain as I think it was his problem.

Will Hunt

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#5 Re: St Bees Knowledge
February 24, 2020, 04:28:12 pm
My logic was based on a couple of things. Firstly, YDS used to get 7B (or maybe +?), which what I did clearly wasn't. Secondly, you aren't climbing the arete - you do two moves up the arete then drift left and top out 2 or 3 feet left of the arete. Like I said, Nige would know for certain as I think it was his problem.

Maybe the grade came down in light of the fact that staying right on the arete is whack beta? :shrug:
Hopefully Greg will let us know the score.

205Chris

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#6 Re: St Bees Knowledge
February 24, 2020, 07:25:59 pm
Have you not seen this gem of a vid Will? Fun starts at 3:27


 

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