[tomtom]

M: Work

Tu: Mad Volume in Hull. Average board session - rushed stuff too much - didnt do anything new. But good social times and my board session endurance is now over an hour...

We: Work

Th; Helsby Hilltop. About the only thing that was dry and close - and psyched by Mikes newish problems there went to open my account on "Tears in the rain" a 7B+ traverse into a nose. Spent 60-90 min on it and think I've got most of the moves sorted out (its quite sequency) apart from one which I was trying near the end so probably gassed out. Core intensive. Did this nice 7A on the nose though that I don't think I've done before...


(great hazy sunshine with the autumn colours)

Fri/Sa/Sun - family and watching the forecast - which didnt give me any opportunities. Ended up going to the Manc Depot on Sat eve and had a really good session on the 50. Did two new 6C's - and made a couple of extra moves on problems I've been trying...

I seem to have become hooked on doing board problems. Circuits of coloured plastic hold no interest now apart from to warm up. I like the real fight it takes to get to the top of the 35 at MV and the 50 at Depot - defninite sense of achievement when I get to the top.... funny - never thought I would. I think I also like it because I can partition it off as 100% being training - (wooden blobs with lights on is not like rock) whereas the plastic circuits with their range of movement sometimes blur the line between training and climbing (if that makes sense). Of course its all climbing - but I go to walls to get better at climbing outside (if the weather is shit).

[Will Hunt]

100% fuck all from me. Skin regrowth and DIY.

[dunnyg]

How is the wound?

[yetix]

M: had had a big day on Sunday in the pass but felt fresher than expected so decided to retest my max hangs, managed to add 31.5kg for 10s and 33.5kg for 8s on the 1k bottom edge at 66kg BW. So my fingers are roughly (total weight no as a %) where they were pre finger injury in April again now (+34kg @ 62kg BW in April)
T: rest
W: went to the pass to get back on lizard king. Sent Emyrs Arete whilst warming up, glad I could span this from a lower left hand and avoid the sharper holds! Managed to do Lizard King within about an hour of getting on it which I was really stoked about. My friend wanted to get on Ultimate Retro Party so agreed to join him and ended up bumping into my housemate here too! Managed to send URP despite feeling spent and somehow did Room to Swing a Katz too. Skin was obliterated by the end with a few holes and some really pink skin. Worth it.
T: rest
F: rest, had some annual leave but skin was trash still, but decided to join Jamie and Jack at the GOP, who both somehow managed to tick despite it being condensed!
S: forced rest, spent the day driving around Wales looking for dry rock, discovered elephantius cave was both flooded and had a load of run off, tried to go back to Ogwen and ended up inside a cloud. Lots of hiking in between.
S: couldn't bear getting rained off again so went to BUK and got on the 55 board, managed to send Go Go Gadget (probably the hardest thing I've sent on a board) as well as repeating 6 things I have previously found hardish. Also got close on a few other things and felt like I nearly did a really hard move on another thing I've been projecting on that board for a while!

Happy with the successes of my week written down but unhappy at the 3 rest days, feel like it's wasted time, but either gonna have to accept this will happen more now with the shit weather or embrace board season!

[tomtom]

It’s been a tough week to find dry rock Yetix... forecast has changed at the last min a few times too.

Still been a teeny bit better than it’s been in font this week by all accounts....

[cheque]

Rehab Diaries Week Sixty-three

STG- Sub-HVS *** Peak Trad list (6/27 remain), onsight HVS by end of 2019.

M- Rest.

T- Gym. Bike. Fourth week of fitness-building (pedal at 85-95RPM, increase the level once a minute 'til failure) Did 14 full minutes first go (maintaining my minute-per-week increase) but only 13:35 the second. Last couple of minutes of that were brutal!

W- Rest. Tired!

T- Very quick walk to Higgar to see how much Peaky goodness I can squeeze in after finishing working at home at 4:30 now the clocks have gone back. The answer is not much at all but it’s always good to just get out even for 30 minutes and I found a little bit of crag swag. 

F- Awesome Walls. This place has lots going for it- loads of newish holds, two new autobelay lines, higher walls than my other option and far tougher climbing on the autobelays- but it’s a quid more than the Foundry, ~6 minutes further drive and has (at the times I go at least) a far more puntery atmosphere (One guy went to get something from his car while wearing his rock shoes ffs.  ) so I neglect it.

Anyway, climbed with the 5 kilo weight belt, found it quite hard but resolved to go here more because of this. Put all my effort into ticking all the routes on the autos to a tough-feeling 6a+  (Nine of them I think) and didn’t have anything left to seriously try the harder end of the grades without the belt. All the time I was there I was cursing the place for being too hot but when I got out to my car I realised that the outside temp had increased by 7-8 degrees while I was in there  so it wasn’t deliberate.

S- Rest. Sore.

S- Up at 3:30AM  to fly to Iceland.

In Reykjavík now- non-climbing holiday (is there climbing here? There’s certainly rock!) so not going to be doing any training or climbing ‘til the weekend at the earliest.

[andy popp]

In Reykjavík now- non-climbing holiday (is there climbing here? There’s certainly rock!)

I've definitely seen videos of bouldering in Iceland.

[Fiend]

In Reykjavík now- non-climbing holiday (is there climbing here? There’s certainly rock!)

I've definitely seen topos of sport climbing in Iceland.

[cheque]

Found this which makes it look and sound brilliant, although a native guide may be a necessity. I don’t even have a hire car myself but the mountains look very impressive. Going on some kind of coach trip to geysers, waterfalls etc. tomorrow- regretting not bringing a tripod...

[nai]

STG: Moonboard 7A, Font 7C
Spring 2020 Lime Font 7C.

M
Home warm up went on a bit while trying to decide where to head, eventually realised Yoghurt Hypnotist would be catching what breeze there was, so Rowtor.  Started on Short Sean's. Bit of a nemesis problem for me this, almost 7 years since I first tried it, only been back 2/3 times but it's always eluded me.  Looked like it was going to again today, all options felts nails and I just couldn't get closer than tickling the break.  Then I decided to see if pulling on using a different foothold would make any difference. Turns out it makes all the difference, five minutes later I'd done it and it felt soft, pleased to do it but felt a bit cheated and a bit daft that it too so long to figure out something so simple.

Headed up to YH, couple of harsh crimps on this problem, previous times I came it was around freezing with a Northerly and felt horrible, Today it was about 10c minus the breeze and was about right. Managed to do all the moves out to join Chip Shop Mantle in two sections and felt sure I could link them when fresher, wouldn't have been able to top out today anyway as CSM was damp and I was short of pads.  Next time connies come good I'll be back with a Sea of Foam aiming to finish it off.

Core back home

T nowt

W - family trip to Silverdale, managed to negotiate a pass for while they had lunch. Aim was Angel Deelite, warmed up on a 6C just left, flash attempt at AD ended predictably at the crimp, struggled with the lip moves but just managed to complete in about 45 minutes from cold, normally takes me about that long to warm up.

Th - nowt

Fr - same

Sa Warmed shoulders up thoroughly then headed to the Foundry. Packed but luckily Pattsy was in charge of the moonboard. Got straight on it and had a great session. 3 6A+/B flashes, a 6C, a 6B+ that I'd tried a few weeks back and dismissed the last move as too reachy (it was an all it jump), and a first 6C+. Good work on a couple of other 6C+s too. Spent about 90 minutes on it vs 60 normally, possibly due to climbing with other folk and resting more
Bit of HI core
TRX IYT
Scap shrugs
Got involved in a willy waving contest with a couple of guys trying each others' core exercises.  Glad to have discovered the hanging V-up while reversing out of a pullup into a pullup while reversing out of teh V-up, but wish I hadn't done three sets.

S - Ouch. Nowt

[Will Hunt]

How is the wound?

Newly exposed skin is still thin but not so sensitive now. Surrounded by two layers of skin, the outer of which is thick and rubbish. Should probably do some sanding to try and even it all out?

[36chambers]

How is the wound?

Newly exposed skin is still thin but not so sensitive now. Surrounded by two layers of skin, the outer of which is thick and rubbish. Should probably do some sanding to try and even it all out?

use a stanley blade, sanding is probably too crude

[gollum]

M - Back on the lifting game. Push day with a lot of chest work. Start with a standard bench working up to 8 slow reps at 75 and then follow it up with the same on the decline bench. Smith machine inclines with a pause, two sets of 8 at 60 and then a drop set with 8 at 60 and 8 at 40, which definitely starts to get my triceps and shoulders. Finish weights with neutral grip shoulder presses for 10s with the last set being a drop set. Good session and glad to be back on it.
Trip to Sheffield Depot with friends during the day. Fun day, ticking a few more purples, working a few more and getting shut down by some more, also do a couple of cracking reds that I’ve not tried before. Feel shattered by the end of the session and fingers definitely feel like I’ve been trying hard.

T - Trip to Sheffield Depot for a training session. Start with some scapular work and feels like there has been some improvement. Move on to a campus session. Just working on progressions. Left arm is certainly where I am much weaker or less coordinated. Move on to do some weights. Deadlifts up to 160 which goes fairly steadily and think I may have a little bit more in me. Then on to off set pull-ups which feel okay today. Some kettlebell rows and some band face pulls finish off the weights. Repeater session on Beastmaker 2000 and feels pretty good with all grip combinations other than Mid 2 feeling pretty solid. Finish off working on sections of some of the harder circuits and have surprising levels of success.

W - Trip to Manchester as have some bits and pieces to do over there. Working on the circuit board at the Depot. Interesting stuff. Excepting the easier circuits I can pretty much do everything in three sections, be it 7a or 7c+, very similar to my route climbing 15 years ago when I would get to the third bolt, but not beyond, on pretty much whatever I tried, be it 7b or 8b+, need to knuckle down with this.
Afternoon biceps and triceps session. Four different types of bicep curl and four different types of triceps press. All good fun.

T - Press day. Bench for doubles up to 95 and the same for decline at triples. Then do a wide range of flys with low weight but holding the stretched position as long as I can on each rep. Chest feels like it’s been worked hard today.
Evening social session at Leeds Depot. Working around the new purples. Get quite a few ticks and come across a couple of tricky moves. Would guess I have about a third of them left to do in the coming weeks. Everyone in the group is climbing well which is always good to see.

F - Back to 0630 starts so can get my session in before RWC Bronze Final. Pull day. Start with deadlifts for speed and am pretty comfortable at 140. Move on to rows and Roman Chair to get the rest of my back engaged. Some narrow grip lat pull downs followed by some wide grip. Finish off the session doing isometric holds on one of the cable machines in an iron cross position, which feels really good.
Afternoon session at the Big Depot. Lots of climbing reds, purples and yellows. Feel tired by the end of the session but in a good way.

S - Quick lifting session before rushing back for the RWC final. Bench press doubles with a very comfortable 95 with both arms being balanced as opposed to being right arm dominant, as is usually the case. Then on to declines with a pause for triples. Get to 90 with a strong pause but can’t manage to go heavier. Incline smith machine for fives up to 80. Rare machine press up to 110 and machine shoulder press up to 55. A really good solid session.

S - Mostly resting although did go out for a short run with Mrs B to blow out the cobwebs.

Overall, I’m settling in to the amount of time that I have free to train and am definitely taking advantage of it. Do think that to progress much I need to get my weight closer to where it was when I was climbing 15 years ago.

[duncan]

A tufa...

M - R. Elbow sore. Fingerboard, 18mm edge pick-ups and assisted hangs with the L arm. ‘Max’ hangs type of session
T - Elbow more sore. L Shoulder strength work: one arm planks, IsYsTs.
W - L Shoulder strength. Elbow sore doing household chores.
T - Squats, pistols. Fingerboard, 18mm edge pick-ups.
F - 9km slow jog.
S - Shoulder strength
S - Shoulder strength.
M - short run
T - stretches. Fly to Reus. Siurana with Travis et al.
W - Herbolari 5+ and 6a. Elbow tolerated this, felt positive.
T - Primavera 5+ and 6a. La siuranella 6b, not such a good idea.
F - Rest. Exploring new-to-me parts of Siurana.
S - 20km walk along the top of Montsant (Roca Corbatera).
S - Grau dels Masets 4+, 5+, 6a. Elbow v. sore.

It’s a gamble going on a trip with a tweak. Usually the gamble pays off but not this time. Climbing over for some weeks I suspect, time to do some proper rehab

[abarro81]

Do think that to progress much I need to get my weight closer to where it was when I was climbing 15 years ago. do fewer weights sessions

Fixed for you (though realistically I'm assuming you do the weights because you like lifting weights and not for any other reason, in which case do what makes you happy)

[galpinos]

M –
T – Bouldering at the Depot - 30degree board and "problems". Really good session, felt like the project on the 30 is coming together. Definitely seeing progress. Managed to make a little progress on some yellows as well (as seeing Ru and Caff not get up them either helped the psyche!)
W – AeroCap @ -36kg
T – 
F –
S –
S –

Pretty poor week due to fingers feeling tweaky, haloween and trip to see in-laws in London. Added to that my shit chest is playing up so couldn't even cycle to work this morning. Attempting to keep the psyche an hit the fingerboard as well as the wall this week, early night to help the chest get better and hoping for a dry Sunday morning so I can actaully tickle some grit........

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - fingers, garage session, very humid. Not bad, especially back and front3 on 9 mm edge with 2 kg added. Tried one brief hang on the 5 mm with 16 kg, left the ground and held it but felt very precarious. Front lever pulls x3 and clean and press x3 in between, 13 total sets.
Tue - rest.
Wed - 20" lock off on 14 mm edge x20. Clean and press in between. Weights.
Thu - PE problem 2 and problem 1 x10 alternated. 2' rests in between goes. Fell at the end of 9th go. Weights.
Fri - various loaded carries. Very tired.
Sat - boxing bag. Tired.
Sun - board climbing. True climbing after one exact year. Not bad, had fun with friends. Two problems set, one problem climbed. By me.

[36chambers]

After 4 days on and probably 30 goes on Yorkshireman Sit, I felt pretty battered all of last week. So decided to take it very easy.

M:
T:
W:
T: Indoors. Struggled to do much other than flail around.
F:
S:
S: Cliff. Recently discovered that I can do the crux on Keelhaul every time without any fuss (either I've grown or the boulder has shrunk in the last 3 years). I have zero PE atm, so was enjoying playing around on it without feeling like I should give it any serious attempts from the start. Nice one to play on if I'm ever forced back there.

Left shoulder still a little sore, but will hopefully get on the board this week to see how it holds up.

edit: weighed myself this morning for the first time in a while. Currently at an all time high!

[highrepute]

Monday
Brent Fell - pleasant spot with the family about 2 minutes of climbing with only one climbing shoe

Wednesday
Burbage - bonus morning out. Unfortunately wasn't ideal conditions, wet in the shade and too warm in the sun. Voyager looked dry on first inspection but after a few goes realised it was greasy and I couldn't get anything out of the LH starting hold to control the jump to the crimp. I did get my heel up on the first go so a positive. Decided to retreat to remergence but ended up trying In The Flick of Time 7c+. This seems to come down to the first move to the sloper (which I didn't manage) and then holding the sloper for long enough to move to the break (which I sort did did once before it started feeling too warm). The rest of the moves seem fairly steady. It was only later that I realised that the top half is a 7b that I'd flashed, must have suited me. I've got a few little projects I can try when Voyager isn't working so sessions always feel worthwhile.

[highrepute]

I seem to have become hooked on doing board problems. Circuits of coloured plastic hold no interest now apart from to warm up. I like the real fight it takes to get to the top of the 35 at MV and the 50 at Depot - defninite sense of achievement when I get to the top.... funny - never thought I would. I think I also like it because I can partition it off as 100% being training - (wooden blobs with lights on is not like rock) whereas the plastic circuits with their range of movement sometimes blur the line between training and climbing (if that makes sense). Of course its all climbing - but I go to walls to get better at climbing outside (if the weather is shit).

Welcome to the club.

[highrepute]

Happy with the successes of my week written down but unhappy at the 3 rest days, feel like it's wasted time, but either gonna have to accept this will happen more now with the shit weather or embrace board season!

3 rest days seems fairly standard for the time rich. Do you aim to climb every day, can your body handle it? Resting has its value too.

[yetix]

Happy with the successes of my week written down but unhappy at the 3 rest days, feel like it's wasted time, but either gonna have to accept this will happen more now with the shit weather or embrace board season!

3 rest days seems fairly standard for the time rich. Do you aim to climb every day, can your body handle it? Resting has its value too.

Normally I'd do 4 days out of 7 climbing, 2 days outside, 1 day on a board(about 2.5h including a warmup), and 1 day of some sub maximal hangs stuff just to keep the tweeks at bay (about 60 mins including warmup)

[yetix]

Sorry I meant 3 rest days in a row btw (thurs, fri, sat) especially as I had fri and sat off work and didnt manage to climb

[gollum]

Do think that to progress much I need to get my weight closer to where it was when I was climbing 15 years ago. do fewer weights sessions

Fixed for you (though realistically I'm assuming you do the weights because you like lifting weights and not for any other reason, in which case do what makes you happy)

Probably a fair assessment. I do enjoy it for its own sake. Even when I was climbing at my best, I have always pushed metal, although probably did a lot less combination exercises back then and I have always focused on recruitment rather than hypertrophy.......,,,,excepting the years when I wasn’t climbing.

I will definitely think about how to tailor it more though Alex.

Ta

[Coops_13]

W: Hotel Gym. 10 mins bike, 10 mins elliptical

S: Hike up to top between Flatiron #1 and #2. 3.5 miles, 1400ft ascent. Very snowy and slippery underfoot

S: Keystone skiing. Lots more runs open.14 downhills with 25,000ft descent, 45.8 miles, max speed 36.4mph. Mostly blues with a small black run four times - similar to a hard European red