the shizzle > diet, training and injuries

Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport (RED-S)

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shark:
Article by Mina on UKC

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/relative_energy_deficiency_in_sport_-_a_cautionary_tale-12345


Not heard of RED-S before.

From the article


--- Quote ---So, low energy availability is the villain here and lack of periods is just one of many problems associated with RED-S. Essentially, when the body doesn't receive enough energy (specifically carbohydrate) relative to demand, it will prioritise fuelling movement and down-regulate other physiological processes in order to conserve energy. Over-exercising, relative under-fuelling (intentional or unintentional), psychological stress or any combination of the three can lead to low energy availability.

RED-S can result in a multitude of dysfunctions with signs and symptoms including frequent illness and injury, lack of or irregular menstruation, fatigue, decreased performance and training response, impaired concentration, stress fractures, cold intolerance, mood swings, weight loss, delayed puberty and decreased morning erections in men.
--- End quote ---

Doylo:
I can’t imagine training as hard as that no matter what I’m eating. Don’t know how people do it double sessions 5/6 days a week. Not surprised doing it for years along with underfueling causes problems. Hope she makes a quick recovery. I’m sure she will now she knows what’s going on.
 
--- Quote from: shark on October 21, 2019, 10:01:53 am ---and decreased morning erections in men.
--- End quote ---
I put this down to self loathing.

Mr E S Capegoat:
‘Red-S’ sounds like a combination of overtraining and restrictive eating patterns which seem quite common in climbing. Other factors associated include obsessional behaviour, perfectionism, singular goal driven behaviour  lots of repetition, despite downwards spiral, failing to see the wood for the trees etc. Wander round Malham catwalk any given weekend and it’s all going on. Sardines and salad etc. Other non sports related but physiologically related ideas include neuro fatigue, central fatigue, ME, chronic fatigue, depression, post viral syndrome etc. I think this might be often reported in sport, did Steve Ovett suffer this in the late 80’s?

mrjonathanr:
Seb Coe  struggled to recover from virus,  not uncommon with overtraining

nick63:
There's lots of info on RED-S on the British Journal of Sports Medicine site. It's a big problem and used to be thought only a female issue, however the latest evidence suggests it's both female and male.

There's good podcast, again on the BJSM site, about RED-S. We all know climbing is a power to weight ratio sport but not eating enough will probably cause more problems in the long run; increased risk of injury, poor recovery from injury or illness, sudden drop in performance. Stress fractures are a common and again fail to heal or re-fracture with little stress.

Is it better to get strong at a healthy weight (whatever that is) or calorie restrict and risk the consequences of RED-S?

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