[tomtom]

Evenin all...

M: Anston on my way to work... psyche was high - rested, nearly a month since I was last there - Reservation was going down. Was if fuck. I felt like I was climbing OK - but it was all really hard - couldn’t do the moves, dropped a couple. Tried really really hard but ended up skulking away.

On the way in I was challenged by an oldish lady walking her dog who told me climbing wasn’t allowed. I said it was in certain places - which didn’t seem to please her and she just waved her hands at me and tottered off with her dog. Brexit voter obvs.

Tu: MAD VOLUME wall in Hull. I really like this wall... growing on me. I managed two problems on the board!! (35 deg LED Beastmaker type wooden holds board) Cool... Good power hour.

Thurs: Big day up at Blackstone with Dolly. Warmed up by the Hueco boulders - nearly did the 7A trig slab, showed Dolly the ropes and he had a good day out I think.. I managed an eliminate of the Lushering that has been (I’ve since discovered) been done before (of course it had...) but had a really cool rock over (I used double heels!) Prepare for video overload (sorry)







Sat: Looked at the weather and decided to wait until Sunday... Was very amused by Fiends posts on FB about the Battle of Britain at the Depot...

Sun: Wished I’d gone out on Sat :D Went to Helsby - that was damp in many places, but had a good relaxed session in the woods buttress, before moving to Ron Burgandys (its so hard that problem...).

My L arm tennis elbow is getting tweaky again - as I up my intensity to 4 sessions a week. Going to carry on for a bit and see if it stabilises...

[yetix]

STG: 100 7As in 2019 (83), another 7C and focus on a short list of problems I'd like to get done.
MTG: 7C+
LTG: 8A

M: rest
T: rest
W: Jerry's roof, fell off the jug mantelling on Bus Stop then had progressively worse goes. Tried Jerry's arete right at the end should have done it but too tired. Both lined up for next session so should go swiftly and mean I can go elsewhere afterwards.
T: rest
F: Boulder UK board session. First session on the board in ages. Didn't expect alot but repeated quite a few things I'd found hard at the start of the year despite being heavy (for me) and not having climbing on a board much in a while. Need to improve my tension significantly! Not sure how I've previously kept my feet on the board for some problems.
S: rest
S: Carrock, had an epic on Sloping Arete, struggled with this problem before but managed to get it done in the end with some slight beta tweeks. Got McCaffies Crack shortly after once I changed how I held the right hand hold to pull on (who knew pulling down on it would make it easier? Haha). Then spent 90 mins on the Prow, got close but still felt so far at the same time and managed to get some deep cuts to middle pads from it which is frustrating!

Okay week despite being ill at the start of the week whilst also having to deal with splitting with my long term partner and some difficulties in work and with the rest of my family. Hopefully a lower stress week next week will lead to more success.

[nai]

STG: Moonboard 7A, Another Lime > Font 7B.
Winter: short list of grit problems in the 7B-7C range.
Spring 2020 Lime Font 7C.

M
Warm up at home, took aaaaaages to get going and wasn't firing, couldn't repeat either of the problems from last week that'd felt ok. Left shoulder felt very weak so got stuck into it with a massage ball then headed to Tor anyway. Figured if I could work the remaining moves and have a complete sequence it was time well spent. Took a couple of hours but it all came together and I gave it a hopeful attempt from the start but I couldn't do that move again. Decent session though, ready to go next dry spell.

Core

Felt a bit fucked and tweaky, also a little demotivated, decided to take a few days off.

T rest - got stuck into leg, shoulder and back with a variety of massage implements. Seem to have a trigger point every sqaure inch.  Bit of shoulder and leg mobiility

W - stuck at home without a car.  Bit of leg work, convinced left leg is weak and something not working properly.
Core
more massage and mobility


Th 20km mtb. Lovely day to be on the moors. Chiily air, low, weak sun, trees and bracken on the turn producing beautiful colours, stags' calls carried on the wind from Big Moor to Totley Moor. Lovely.  Ground was totally filthy but the edges looked magnificent and experienced a few gritstone hankerings.

Fr  Banishing such thought from my mind it was back to the Tor.
Warmed up ok and today I was firing, set off optimistic about chances on Cave Problem.  Unfortunately, of eight holds three were wet and two damp, so it was a non-starter. Ummed anmd ahhed and nearly left for the Foundry but decided I might as well have a play on Ben's.
Worked out start to kneebar quickly enough; kneebar to gruesome sidepull took a while longer but sussed it eventually.  Didn't managed the "karate kick", couldn't get the second kneebar to stick and couldn't do the cross through move.
Took a rest and during a mozey around checked the start of Cave Problem only to find it had dried back a lot.  Bit of brushing, towelling and dabbing and there was barely any dampness coming through.  Shifted pads.
Pulled on 3 moves in to practice the end, bottled the final slap.  Then did the same again, face almost level with the hold, I know it's a deep incut, but just can't make myself go for it
Tried the first move. First try got the distance, second touched the hold then held it at the third attempt, swung the heel in first attempt and started to claw my through, even managing to request that Mick B turn encouragement into spotting, set for the final move not believing but slapped, barely hit the hold but fortunately it's big enough to be forgiving.
Boom, totally unexpected and pretty quick, two sessions and 15 minutes over eight days.  First lime 7B+ and first of the grade (except eatswood Traverse which doesn't count) since January 2013.
Wondered about working Ben's some more but concerned about it chewing my skin, walked down the far end to see if Kristian's was dry but the  finishing crimp looked wet. Couldn't get motivated, chatted for too long and left not leaving myself enough time to do much conditioning work.

HI core back home

S planned to rest but felt ok, managed to get warmed up at half time of NZ Ireland then spent the second half nipping out for problem attempts while they setup set pieces etc.  Amazing how much you can get done while the forwards try to get a scrum right.
Scap shrugs -8kg up to 6 on left and on right.

S rest

[dunnyg]

You make Mike's arete look about 6A in that tomtom! Where the hard bit? (Genuine question) Lushering eliminate looks tricky too...

[tomtom]

You make Mike's arete look about 6A in that tomtom! Where the hard bit? (Genuine question) Lushering eliminate looks tricky too...

That’s Dolly climbing! I make it look harder. Tricky bit is holding the body/stopping the barn door when you move your Lh up from the undercut to the first hold. I find that a tough move. It’s one of them that’s not too bad when you’ve figured it out - but tricky if you don’t have the beta!

[tomtom]

👏👏👏 Nai.

[shark]

Bravo nai 

10.12-13 average 152.8 till Friday *see below


M

T . Foundry to warm up with Victor. Felt weak. Anston. Woodys. River too high to cross with wellies. Worked on SC. What else. Best link 2nd move into setup for 3rd. Lots of failure and frustration trying 3rd move in isolation. Shattered after. Slept for over 2 hours when got home

W

T

F Noon. Unexpected Malham trip with Paul. Crag still had a lot of run off but Oak was largely dry. Had to break out a brand new pair of whites. Cons x 2. Two warm up goes on the Oak. Undercut by third bolt wet but towelled it dry. Go1 Got to the undercut but it was wet. Short rest and dried it then from there to middle of traverse. Felt like hard work. Left towel in undercut. After belaying Paul has a short nap Go2 knocked towel out and led from ground to set up for throw but busted. Short rest and did the throw. Go3 Toes killed, tips sore. Busted. Stripped it. Terrible session. Hero to zero in 7 days

S

S PM Leaf shovelling and trench filling. Regretting not going on the grit with Paul et al. Systems board Aero Cap 20/10’s

What a difference a week makes.

I deferred my Oak campaign on 11th Sept to have a break and wait for onset of cooler temps it got wet. Unfortunately as soon as weather cooled off the crag got wet. I had the one session on the 27th Sept when the top half of the route was wet and then got completely soaked.

Mentally I’d written off the Oak for the year and looking forward to imminent trip to the Red. Was out for a walk with the dogs at Higgar on Thursday when I got a text from Jerome at 4pm saying it was dry. Couldn’t decide if it was a blessing or curse. Up till then I’d been resting up looking forward to having a low stress session on Soul Crusher refining micro beta on the swing on move 3. Complete change of mentality required. Cue frantic texting to the Malham regulars to sort out Friday.

Not sure what to read into my bad performance and session stamina. Hadn’t eaten much previous day and slept really badly that night. Also working Soul Crusher is hard powerful work and I may not have fully recovered with 2 days rest (Victor took 3 rest days and he’s 21!) I’m hoping these were the main reasons for my abysmal performance on Friday however I suspect that I’m physically burnt out following several weeks of try hard and dieting and could ideally do with a break.

Hard call but I’ll have another Malham session with Paul on Tuesday and see how it goes. Feel obliged to give it another go but I’m not hopeful to say the least.

*In general was feeling strung out from keeping my weight down. Decided to resume eating ‘normally’ when I got home on Friday night and feel better for it but now back over 11stone. Im proud that I’ve kept my weight below 11 stone for 7 weeks but it’s been too obsessive and wearing and not something I can live with indefinitely.

[teestub]

. Best link 2nd move into setup for 3rd.

This makes it sound like your best link was half a move 

[shark]

  Yes did the second move first. If you know it then it was pull body up holding poor undercut with LH and intermediate edge with RH and bump out for blind slot with RH then cross left foot over right and right foot goes up to hold in the roof.

[Will Hunt]

T - Depot. Can't remember much other than it being a long old session.

S - took the bab to the lab. She had fun and did some good little moves but I forgot (again) the cuddly toy to coax her up the wall. Pulled on myself a few times while she ate lunch but with no real intent, saving myself for Sunday.

S - called at Hawkcliffe for Rumble in the Jungle. We battled along the top of the crag and found it wet. Walked out along the top which is very much easier.
Then Earl. It chucked it down on the way over there but the crag was dried quickly by the fearsome northerly. Warmed up and did the flakes on the third go. Wasn't properly warm so the top was a shambles.
Pottered a bit. Pulled onto Underpants and found making the distance to the Underworld rail fairly easily but wasn't sticking it and couldn't decide which bit to go for. Tips appreciated. Pulled onto lager and the sloper thing that you go for felt abominable. Tips appreciated.

Then off for a look at the 7C arete at the far end of the crag - Colt 45.
Stubbs, ready yourself, the downgrade is coming. The start is easy and then the top out gets a bit blank. 7A in all. But an absolute classic. It's a shame that the grade is so wrong. It should be a much sought after 7A beauty but as it happens it only has 4 ticks on UKC.

[teestub]

Stubbs, ready yourself, the downgrade is coming.

Will, you are both brave and humble. Did your non-albatross proportioned friends agree too?

[Will Hunt]

Stubbs, ready yourself, the downgrade is coming.

Will, you are both brave and humble. Did your non-albatross proportioned friends agree too?

Fear not, they did 

I don't get brave and humble though. What's so brave and humble about inflating your CV with toss grades?

Btw, have you done it, its brilliant.

[Bradders]

I agree for once Will. Easier than any of the 7Bs at Earl for sure. A thoroughly excellent problem though.

[gollum]

M - Spend morning sorting stuff in Manchester so pop in to Manchester Depot for a quick training session. Start with some campus, using the small rounds for shorter moves, which feels like good contact strength training. Then on to repeaters which go okay. On last few sets I have be hand on lower board and other on the higher board, which seems to be a fairly effective alternative. Finish off with a few circuits to get some blood flowing, nothing to hard, just concentrating on foot placement.
Triceps work. 3 sets of standing rope press, 3 sets of leaning overhead rope press, 3 sets of single arm Tate press with drop sets and overhead dumbbell tri press to finish. Bicep work. Cable hammer curls, incline curls, Zotmann curls and concentration curls.
A good session to start the week. Not too hard but not so easy.

T - Push day. Start with bench press for doubles. Very clean all the way to 100. Move on to benching off the pins. 100 is steady, go for 110....fail, go for 105.......easy, go for 110 again...fail. Hey ho. Them barbell shoulder press for four reps up to 45. Finish session with neutral grip dumbbell shoulder presses and press ups on the bands. Enjoyed that.
Sheffield Depot during the day. Tick lots more purples, work a few more and look confused at most of the yellows as just can’t see how to do them. Good mix of powerful and technical stuff.

W - Pull day. Gym mega busy when I arrive so do some stuff that I rarely do. Drop sets on the vertical traction machine and the seated row leave my arms and grip feeling like they have worked. Some slow steady shrugs to hit the traps. Single arm pull downs for five sets with the last set being a four stage drop set leaves me feeling my last. Deadlift to test it out and do some speed work and goes surprisingly well with 140 flying off the floor. Finish off with some light ultra strict rear felt work.
Spend the morning doing domestic stuff and then time to train so head to Sheffield Depot. Scapular raises to warm up. Campus board next. All about consolidating and trying to regain my mojo, which seems to go pretty well mixing the session between big moves stuff and small holds stuff. A way off my benchmarks but the harder I practice the luckier I will get. Move onto fingerboard and do some Max hangs for a change, which work okay given the length of time since doing them. Do some small edge hangs at the end. Manage a solid 10 seconds on 6mm edges with body weight plus 5k and a much less solid 8 seconds with 10k added. Do some offset pull-ups, trying to increase the number of reps over last week. Definitely getting more zoned into this exercise, although too early to say whether I’m actually getting any stronger, although the fact that I am momentarily leaving the bar at the top of some reps even on the widest grip would suggest some improvement in strength as well as just sussing the engram.
Play on the moonboatd briefly to try to just stick with it and get used to it. Finish working out some sections of some of the harder (for me) circuits and have reasonable success, particularly given that long sections was never my forte.

T - Push day in the gym and have the luxury of a great deal of time. Start with decline press for 10 reps working up to a steady 70. Bench is 5x5 day and max on 4th set at 85, having to drop the weight back to 80 after 3 reps on final set. Then 5x5 on Smith incline which gets up to 80 without lifting off the bench. Still on the Smith machine do 5 reps shoulder press to the front and then 5 to back of neck. Keep weight low to keep it all safe. Then do cable flys in a mid, high and then low position which gs my chest fluttering. Finishing lifting section with some lateral raises, front raises and neutral presses as a rising pyramid with the last set as a drop set. Phew!!!!!! Bit of core before home for well deserved food.
Evening session at Leeds Depot. Good social session with lots of us doing lots of things. For me I get another yellow that takes my total to five, with a target of six, also get moves sorted on a couple of others, so looking alright.

F - Trip to Manchester Depot. They are setting for Battle of Britain tomorrow, which I’m no longer doing due to a trip to Scotland instead, which means lots is cordoned off, although we still get loads done. Get up lots of reds and purples and a handful of yellows with only very limited working going on for almost all of them. Really enjoy it here, although maybe it just plays to my strengths a bit. A good session and feel wasted by the end of the session.

S - Rest as driving to Scotland for a few days.

S - Struggling with a cold so spend the vast majority of the day in bed.

[nai]

the harder I practice the luckier I will get.

Love that quote 

[Will Hunt]

The rock is going to get ripped a new arsehole when gollum puts all this training to good use outdoors!

[36chambers]

Stubbs, ready yourself, the downgrade is coming.

Will, you are both brave and humble. Did your non-albatross proportioned friends agree too?

Fear not, they did 

I couldn't get both feet on the wall until I used an extra pad to pull on from Will's starting position. Then I topped it straight away. Great problem once you're on it. 

[36chambers]

M: light condition session
T: indoors. Puntering around in the main room. not resting, not thinking, not really getting up anything. Oldschool ting.
W: lightweight deadlifts (not a Coleman ting)
T: indoors. Fingers too tweaky for the board. Another poorly managed sesh linking 2-3 moves on stuff too hard for me. Allez.
F:
S: Cliff, reluctantly. Tried the futuristic Snappy Roof jug to break campus and I'm miles off.
S: Earl. Did Lagers and Colt 45 and was too much of a wuss to properly commit to the jump on Close Range.

Will try to have some sort of plan for my next indoors sessions.

[Yossarian]

M - Wall. Index finger pip still doing weird clicking and fingers feeling generally tweaky, so avoided board and instead shuffled round in a grump. Largely unproductive.
T - London. Few KM on hire bike and walked quite a long way. Had thought about Mile End, but decided against it.
W
T - Ditto Monday.
F - Cheddar. Had considered Churnet for the day, but decided to risk the weather for some routes. Arrived in damp mist and drizzle, which turned to proper rain. This stopped after a short while though, and with a bit of a breeze the Wave dried out very fast. I’d not visited since 1994, but seemed to remember the sloping gravel-covered top level feeling v sketchy, so opted to solo stickclip my way up. Total pain in the arse, especially with a heavy window cleaning pole stickclip. Anyway, did Raw Deal 7a three times, mainly because I couldn’t be arsed to put the rope up on anything else. Brilliant fun route through, and got pretty psyched for a return trip to try Insatiable, Split Rambo, Seven Months Later and Liquid Crystal (at some point). I realised that there are fair more impressive things at Cheddar, but having been rock-starved for a few weeks i was totally syked.
S
S - Wall with daughter. She skipped comp the previous day, so we had fun session trying stuff together rather than at the end of her squad session. New prow set, and both had a great time.

Need to figure out a plan to keep on top of tweaky fingers. More icing and maybe some gentle fingerboarding. Totally syked by trip to Cheddar and keen to get as many sport days in the diary for the rest of the year. Daughter and I are heading up the Peak for 2-3 days this week and keen to assess post-Font board training on bouldering performance.

[Ballsofcottonwool]

M: nothing
T: Avertical World bouldering, Autobelay warm up then 35deg board upstairs, Black(V2-V4) x3 Green(V3-V5) attemptsx3( making good progress after 3 weeks,  solid through crux1,discovered I’d missed a hold around the arete which is going to make crux2 a lot easier), then onto Moonboard again to try Benchmark problems 7x6A+ retro-flashed, 1x6B+ 4th go YY,  2 attempts each on the 4 other 6A+ benchmarks, 1x attempt each on first 10x6B benchmarks
W: nothing
T:nothing
F: Transition extreme, with eldest daughter, hour belaying for her, followed by half hour of power for me, a quick warm up on autobelays, then foot on campus board 1-6-1 30s on 2m30s off x 10. Leg raises and crunches for core during rests.
S:  Working on MTG, clearing out summer clothes the kids have outgrown. 2 bin bags worth gone. 
S: Gentle walk around Glamis castle gardens, offset by an amazing pork,pistachio and apricot pie from the Tayport bakery stall at the Autumn fair.

STG(November) Moonboard 6C
MTG(spring clean) clear the shite out of the garage so I have somewhere to train at home again.
LTG   Moonboard 7A,   f8a route

[galpinos]

LTGs: F7C, E5, F8a
Winter Goals: Multiple F7Bs, a 7B+, get down to 80kg
Currently 85kg

M – AeroCap @ -36kg, Max Hangs @ +26kg
T – Bouldering at the Depot - 30degree board and "problems". Still can't link the board prject but nice to be able to link a few moves together repeatedly. Ticked the yellow on the "barrel" by using a heel - actually quite easy!
W – AeroCap @ -36kg, Max Hangs @ +26kg
T –  Bouldering at the Depot - Poor session. Turned up late, lowe [psyche, tired and not "up for it". Dio the "nails" purple on the back wall, felt fine, turns out they'd change dthe holds and made it a lot easier!
F – AeroCap @ -36kg
S – Rest
S – AeroCap @ -36kg

Wife ill and general tiredness meant an easy weekend. Hopefully back on it this week and might actually get outside this weekend (cue rain....)

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - weights, bar work.
Tue - various loaded carries 20'.
Wed - fingers, garage session, quite strong. Managed a solid 5" hang on 14 mm edge with 2 kg added RH. LH had to take off 3 kg. Bar work in between hangs.
Thu - fingers, system. Despite Wednesday's session, I was quite strong. 15 various hangs on pinches and edges. Rings in between. Finished with 3 laps on PE problem n. 1 with 1' rests in between. Then weights.
Fri - rest.
Sat - boxing bag.
Sun - rest.

[cheque]

Effort Nai.

Terrible session. Hero to zero in 7 days

Surely this is to be expected on the back of climbing your hardest boulder problem though?

Rehab Diaries Week Sixty-one

STG- Sub-HVS *** Peak Trad list (6/27 remain), onsight HVS by end of 2019.

M- Rest.

T- Gym. Bike. Second week of the pulmonary fitness sessions- for those who've lost the notes they took while reading last week's Power Club, this involves pedalling at a consistent 80-90RPM, starting at the easiest resistance setting and increasing it by one each minute until failure  . Managed 12 full minutes twice with a break inbetween. Fucking awful but an an improvement from last week.

W-F Rest. Absolutely knackered for three days after the gym torture!

S- Foundry. An unusual session helping my girlfriend gain some confidence as a belayer- despite being good at it she finds belaying way more stressful than need be and I thought that the best way to help this would be for her to have a session with a nice understanding female instructor next to her and me as "crash test dummy" climbing up, down and falling off on command- her only instruction so far has been from me while I've been on the lead which I'm sure everyone reading will agree is not an ideal way to learn!

It was a great success as Rache got loads of belaying mileage in, now knows she can hold falls (the main aim) and has had her first experience of belaying a leader with a GriGri too. From my perspective it involved repeatedly climbing 5s as slowly as possible, often while waiting very patiently to get slack (aerocap?!) and also taking quite a few leader falls, some of which were genuinely big, which can only be good for my head. Having not taken a fall of any real size since March I was a little concerned that I would be hesitant when it came to this but no such problems. 

S- Rest. Didn't really need it but doing family stuff.

The fitness sessions on the bike can really only be described as making my body do something that it is not prepared to do (the contrast between me gasping and groaning and the other people on the bikes and treadmills at my cheap gym is pretty funny to the observer I reckon) and although I know from experience that this will yield results it's also an unwelcome return to the hard non-climbing work/ being knackered from it pattern that the more-pleasant-weathered months have been a break from... if the weather plays ball it'll hopefully be two days of climbing this weekend to say goodbye to BST though.   

[Coops_13]

Insatiable, Split Rambo, Seven Months Later and Liquid Crystal (at some point).

I really enjoyed Insatiable - perfect route for a boulderer

[Coops_13]

Sat: 4.2 mile hike from Berthoud Pass, 1500ft ascent. Plan was Mount Flora (13er) but deep drifted snow and wind forced us back to our backup plan of Colorado Mines Peak (12,391ft). V cold and windy but fairly clear weather

Sun: First skiing of the season at Keystone. One run open a long 3.5 mile green. Perfect for getting the technique back and starting firing again. V cold and windy with 6 inches of snow falling throughout the day. 33 miles total (think that may include lifts) and 15,000ft of skiing descent. So psyched for the season. More snow forecast so further runs should be open next weekend.

Wrist still not great - seeing physio this week which should hopefully give a path back to crushing...

[galpinos]

Sun: First skiing of the season at Keystone. One run open a long 3.5 mile green. Perfect for getting the technique back and starting firing again. V cold and windy with 6 inches of snow falling throughout the day. 33 miles total (think that may include lifts) and 15,000ft of skiing descent. So psyched for the season. More snow forecast so further runs should be open next weekend.

I've never met you but already hate you. I've only just joined Power Club but if your posts are going to be filled with smug skiing entries I'm going have to quit in an envy induced state of rage.

[mr chaz]

Don't worry galpinos. Simple mistake on Coops' behalf - misread as powder club.

As you were...

[Coops_13]

Sun: First skiing of the season at Keystone. One run open a long 3.5 mile green. Perfect for getting the technique back and starting firing again. V cold and windy with 6 inches of snow falling throughout the day. 33 miles total (think that may include lifts) and 15,000ft of skiing descent. So psyched for the season. More snow forecast so further runs should be open next weekend.

I've never met you but already hate you. I've only just joined Power Club but if your posts are going to be filled with smug skiing entries I'm going have to quit in an envy induced state of rage.

Haha, apologies Galpinos. Maybe I should use the NSFW feature for these entries

[Yossarian]

Insatiable, Split Rambo, Seven Months Later and Liquid Crystal (at some point).

I really enjoyed Insatiable - perfect route for a boulderer

Yep, that looked great. The Wave routes do look like they pack a lot in. There was some self-deprecatory dismissal of Liquid Crystal in the Project 8a thread (which I keep meaning to revive) by Andy W, who described it as, "short and shit", but in the vids I've seen of it the climbing looks cool and the ascentionists look pretty syked. (Plus there's the advantage of not needing to worry too much about shuffling around the circuit board in preparation...)

[duncan]

Shark, +1 on the post-project crash. Totally normal.

Nai   

STG: continue rehab. Try some vertical 7as.
MTG: 7b+ by the end of the year.
LTG: tbc

M - Westway bouldering to ’V3’. Sore elbow.
T - 7km slow jog. Shoulder strength: one arm planks, side planks, one arm IsYsTs.
W - Fingerboard, 18mm edge. ‘Max’ hangs type of session. Elbow OK with this.
T - Pull-ups (2 reps per set)- a mistake, elbow didn’t like this. Squats, pistols.
F - 9km slow jog.
S - Portland with Mike Highbury and Cyan. Warmed up then tried Last Rose of Summer (7a) which I managed to scratch up. However...one line of bolts up a featureless wall of shells looks much like another and it turned out I’d actually done most of Daydream Believer (6c+), not in the guidebook, with a move or two of Last Rose for good measure. Followed up with Love the Smell of Resin ... (6c): more shell game.   
S - Catching up with old friends. Shoulder strength: planks, side planks, IsYsTs. Hip and knee strength. Elbow sore.

Shoulder much better; elbow not better. Good to get outside on a glorious day with good company. Felt like I had a little in hand on Daydream Believer/Last Rose and should be capable of harder in this style. Off to Siurana in a week but will have to forego the PE top-up as this is almost guaranteed to stir up the elbow.   

[spidermonkey09]

Great effort Nai! Having a rest day in the hotel while it pisses it down so thought I might as well annoy Andy.

Finally did Adios Pepito at the Piscineta yesterday in five sessions. Quite pleased with this as it is the first step stabilising the pyramid and I have found the style here very challenging. The route itself is incredible; 45m long and pure endurance. Fell off several times at the crux at 35m, including once just after it  , before making it to the final kneebar and going to the top. Good timing as well as it is absolutely pissing it down here and will continue to do so tomorrow.

Tried to respond to Barrows last week but the thread seemed to be locked. I think you are right that I'm unfamilar with the style/ not as comfortable on thuggy routes etc, but I also think I am right that a certain amount of bouldering power (ie upper arm/ shoulders being strong) is really helpful here. I think I would go better here in spring than autumn for that reason. I don't think the Bat Route crux power I had accrued is that relevant as I had it so dialled and efficient by the end and the style is so different; its totally static compared to Rodellar climbing. As such I have been completely spanked here but its been a lot of fun and hopefully made me a better climber. I certainly didn't expect to be onsighting 8a and sure enough I haven't been! Very pleased with even getting up one.

Raining tomorrow so giving skin a much needed rest before going to Siurana for a week or so on Friday. Anticipate mostly onsighting which will be great.

[monkoffunk]

STG - Heal finger. Get boulder strong.
Lose weight back 74kg.
MTG - Boulder projects.
LTG - 7C

M - Board at Rockburn. Reasonable session.

T - Rest

W - nothing.

T - Board at Bouldershack. Also reasonable. Not quite trusting finger on 45. Some roof stuff.

F - S - Nothing.

Mostly rest with some maintenance. Finger has needed some time off despite not being that bad. Will test it out this week. Once it’s better I really want to start working towards the 7C stuff around Portland so need to get working harder and more consistently! Slightly more optimism about this weeks weather forecast.

[Duma]

In case anyone doesn't hate spidermonkey yet, here's what piscineta looks like :

https://www.instagram.com/p/B3y0m2hID0p/?igshid=1cmyevh3ge5j1

Worth swiping to the last pic for a sense of scale

[dunnyg]

 

[Bradders]

In case anyone doesn't hate spidermonkey yet, here's what piscineta looks like :

https://www.instagram.com/p/B3y0m2hID0p/?igshid=1cmyevh3ge5j1

Worth swiping to the last pic for a sense of scale

Jeepers. Makes me want to take up sport climbing.

first step stabilising the pyramid

Assuming your UKC logbook is accurate, your pyramid looks more like a stick! Incredible stuff. Hope you enjoy broadening it out a bit more.

[highrepute]

We'd
Works - Comp wall problems

Thu
Quick warmup and campus session in the kitchen

Sat
Tiny bit of fingerboarding

Sun
Burbage North - Checked out Cinzano Roof - unlikely I'll ever go back to this. Then All Quiet direct, which was affected by run-off. I was still able to climb direct start but then dropped off. Then over to Voyager for the first pull-on of the season. Just had one pad, intending to just try the first move to see if I had pro/regressed much. First go I got through to setting up for the crux throw. Had a few more goes which weren't quite as good, felt like I didn't really have my eye in on the jump to the crimp and kept fumbling it. Although, having one pad, I was jumping off a cheat block which was wobbly and in the wrong place. Very pleased with this, I'll take enough pads and start trying it properly next chance I get.



Good week in terms of climbing. Three full sessions! Promising start to grit season.

[galpinos]

In case anyone doesn't hate spidermonkey yet, here's what piscineta looks like :

https://www.instagram.com/p/B3y0m2hID0p/?igshid=1cmyevh3ge5j1

Worth swiping to the last pic for a sense of scale

He's added to the list.....

People I hate on Power Club
Coops_13
spidermonkey

[dunnyg]

Is that a ukb wiki list?

[spidermonkey09]

In case anyone doesn't hate spidermonkey yet, here's what piscineta looks like :

https://www.instagram.com/p/B3y0m2hID0p/?igshid=1cmyevh3ge5j1

Worth swiping to the last pic for a sense of scale

It is as good as it looks! Adios starts on the pillar like feature in the centre of the photo and then takes the leftward line of weakness to the lip.

[Coops_13]

Is that a ukb wiki list?

Should get Remus to look after it for you galpinos

And don't worry, I've had an annoying wrist injury for five weeks so have been off climbing - if that makes you feel any better

[36chambers]

Is that a ukb wiki list?

Should get Remus to look after it for you galpinos

And don't worry, I've had an annoying wrist injury for five weeks so have been off climbing - if that makes you feel any better

Trying to climb a font 5 crack again?

[Coops_13]

Trying to climb a font 5 crack again?

  playing volleyball