[andy_e]

That's the future right there.

[spidermonkey09]

It's been well over a year since I touched my training diary so I thought I'd hop on here for a bit to get the ball rolling.

S: Cliff. Bad back so campused and one armed things. Drizzle lead us under crusis, nothing to do but get someone to push me into the positions on Cherry Falls, which were all surprisingly easy to hold. Miles off any of the moves though...

Good to see you trying this. Keep at it, good one to try while Louise sorts out Crusis.

[spidermonkey09]

M - drove to France. Stopped somewhere near Brive. Van was OK, touch wood.
T - arrive in Rodellar.
W- straight down to business in the Piscineta with Al and Eddie. Paddled down in the boat: amazing approach. Fuck me, what a crag. Did the 6c+ and dogged the 7b+. Not fit on jugs. Fell off fixed rope ledge and somehow avoided breaking my ankles. 
T - mileage in Mascun. 3 7s, coco loco was the best route and also diametrically different in style to most at rodellar being a slab.
F- Piscineta. Did the 7b+. Started trying 7c+. Knee bars and jugs mostly. Amazing climbing, about 35 degrees overhanging.
S- intended to be a rest day but felt OK waking up so cracked on. Good day, made some progress.
S- rest day. Sat in the sun reading.

Rodellar is pretty easy living. Lots of sun, lots of jugs. Fitness is coming. Hopefully start trying some 8s later next week.

[duncan]

Would one arm standing deadhangs be better instead? Its something I do to get re-recruited at Malham using low edges. Super controllable - you can apply gradually greater load to suit or bear down straight away. Doing it training you can stand on bathroom scales to monitor load (with decent eyesight)

Thanks for the nudge. In lots of ways this would be much better than pick-ups (or two-arm hangs; climbing training exercises are usually better done unilaterally/asymmetrically as climbing movements are nearly always asymmetric [/theory]). It also engages shoulder stabilisers in a functional position when done with good form, which would be good for my long-term shoulder health.

Two reasons why I don’t yet do this very often. Firstly, I started doing pickups after my dislocation because my shoulder tolerated them even when it wasn’t happy hanging. This still sometimes applies but, if I’m honest, there is also a degree of inertia. I’m a beginner with fingerboarding so I’ve seen good progress even though it’s not ideal (something is infinitely better than nothing).

Secondly, I like the quantifiability and seeing small improvement is positive feedback as we all know. Measuring progress is much harder when you’re just ‘trying hard’, even when standing on scales (my bathroom scales quickly stop registering change so measuring force applied for a 7 seconds hold doesn’t work). The ideal set-up would be some kind of counterbalance pulley but it’s a bit awkward to leave in place as the fingerboard is in the front room. That could be this week’s project.

[teestub]

Sounds like you need to get yourself an exsurgo gstength, cheap at twice the price for that quantifiable progress!!

https://www.exsurgo.us/gshop/gstrength500

(This was on a training beta episode and it seemed somewhat over the top even for a number obsessed trainer https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/tyler-nelson-fingers/ )

[Bradders]

Sounds like you need to get yourself an exsurgo gstength, cheap at twice the price for that quantifiable progress!!

https://www.exsurgo.us/gshop/gstrength500

(This was on a training beta episode and it seemed somewhat over the top even for a number obsessed trainer https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/tyler-nelson-fingers/ )

I enjoyed reading the article about "the simplest finger training programme", which turned out to be easily the most complicated method I've heard of in a while

[duncan]

Nai: what’s the point of keeping the shin vertical and what’s so bad about using the Quads?

The more the shin/knee points forward the less engagement you get in glute/hamstring and more quad you use. Nothing bad about using quads but to work the whole chain better to get the form right.  Also not good for the knees I believe, more weight through them and less through hip? 
Good idea to try squatting facing a wall to help get form right, comedy to start with.

Thanks. Interesting. I'm not sure how much of this is science and how much is BroScience...!
I do disagree about more joint loading per se being bad, it assumes joints don't adapt in the same way as muscles or other connective tissue.

Sounds like you need to get yourself an exsurgo gstength, cheap at twice the price for that quantifiable progress!!

https://www.exsurgo.us/gshop/gstrength500

(This was on a training beta episode and it seemed somewhat over the top even for a number obsessed trainer https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/tyler-nelson-fingers/ )

I enjoyed reading the article about "the simplest finger training programme", which turned out to be easily the most complicated method I've heard of in a while

I have access to a force platform at work, perhaps I should set up a hangboard above it!

I nearly linked the "simplest training program". I think there are some interesting ideas in there, about promoting change in connective tissue for example, though I'm not sure about the execution.  One for a different thread perhaps?

[abarro81]

So the simplest fingerboard program is actually three different different sessions, all of which have to be programmed in a different way with the other stuff you're doing to get the best effect. And here I was thinking the simplest fingerboard program was "pull on, try really hard for somewhere from 5s to 30s, rest until you feel fresh(ish), repeat". Guess its makes too short an article though...

[Bradders]

I think you should grant Neely another interview Alex.

[monkoffunk]

I listened to about 30 mins of the podcast but failed to maintain enough concentration. Three exercises seem fairly simple when you get down to it, but I do wonder about the safety of hanging to failure on a finger board. Always though that was a good way to injure yourself.

[highrepute]

I listened to about 30 mins of the podcast but failed to maintain enough concentration. Three exercises seem fairly simple when you get down to it, but I do wonder about the safety of hanging to failure on a finger board. Always though that was a good way to injure yourself.

I always hang until failure. Aim for failure on my last rep of last set. I've never had a finger injury.

[abarro81]

I always hang until failure. Aim for failure on my last rep of last set. I've never had a finger injury.

I often hang until failure. I always have finger injuries.

(to caveat, I don't think it's due to my fingerboarding)

[highrepute]

M - drove to France. Stopped somewhere near Brive. Van was OK, touch wood.
T - arrive in Rodellar.
W- straight down to business in the Piscineta with Al and Eddie. Paddled down in the boat: amazing approach. Fuck me, what a crag. Did the 6c+ and dogged the 7b+. Not fit on jugs. Fell off fixed rope ledge and somehow avoided breaking my ankles. 
T - mileage in Mascun. 3 7s, coco loco was the best route and also diametrically different in style to most at rodellar being a slab.
F- Piscineta. Did the 7b+. Started trying 7c+. Knee bars and jugs mostly. Amazing climbing, about 35 degrees overhanging.
S- intended to be a rest day but felt OK waking up so cracked on. Good day, made some progress.
S- rest day. Sat in the sun reading.

Rodellar is pretty easy living. Lots of sun, lots of jugs. Fitness is coming. Hopefully start trying some 8s later next week.

Dreamy

[SA Chris]

M - nowt
T - nowt
W - wall session. Felt a bit jaded, need a change of scene.
T - nowt
F - first of winter proms series 3k race down at Aberdeen Beachfront. After varying levels of enthusiasm, 3 of us from work went down to do it. 1 mile warmup, £2 at car window, get race number, ready to run. Surprisingly popular for a weekday lunch, 129 entrants. Never raced such a short distance before, not even done a parkrun in nearly 3 years. managed 11:46, fastest SuperVet. Really enjoyed it, looking forward to trying to do rest of series and working on times over winter once ultra is done.
S - run home after dropping van at garage, 7 km.
S - Trampoline session with kids, fun but knackering. Back a bit sore afterwards, but feels OK now.

[36chambers]

It's been well over a year since I touched my training diary so I thought I'd hop on here for a bit to get the ball rolling.

S: Cliff. Bad back so campused and one armed things. Drizzle lead us under crusis, nothing to do but get someone to push me into the positions on Cherry Falls, which were all surprisingly easy to hold. Miles off any of the moves though...

Good to see you trying this. Keep at it, good one to try while Louise sorts out Crusis.

I was just messing about. I think I've achieved as much as I ever will on that problem.

[Nibile]

There's only ONE simplest fingerboarding program, and we all know which one it is.