I’ve made great gains from the Ergo Edge this year.
Quote from: shark on September 15, 2019, 12:15:07 pm I’ve made great gains from the Ergo Edge this year. Do you mean great gains ON or FROM the edge? I'm struggling to square the latter with your recent posts about not feeling good on the Oak?
P.s. what is it again?
But hard work being ill with a 3yo... (smallest violin etc...)
Then went to look at Olicana Arete. Fuck me.
Quote from: abarro81 on September 15, 2019, 05:23:36 pmQuote from: shark on September 15, 2019, 12:15:07 pm I’ve made great gains from the Ergo Edge this year. Do you mean great gains ON or FROM the edge? I'm struggling to square the latter with your recent posts about not feeling good on the Oak?Yes mainly on. I can hang on it with more weight (about 10-12kg extra) and the gains have translated to a more conventional edge and pulling on small holds on my systems board. I generally feel stronger in my fingers outdoors. It’s gutting that the extra fingerboarding I’ve done this year hasn’t given me the extra something I hoped it would for the Oak so other factors are obviously at play.
It's just glaringly obvious to me, having done that move/route, that you lack the simple power to suck-in, throw and hold the horn....I'd bet my month's wages that you're really shit on moonboard 6C-7As. The good thing is, power can be tuned up in very short time. If you can do that throw move regularly you'll send the route I reckon.
Is this stuff you’ve done? Gym rope is impractical. I can use the campus board and Moonboard at the Foundry.
Isn't there a gym rope in the Furnace, opposite corner to the campus board?edit: although up and down large rungs on the campus board would be pretty much the same?
. What's the worst that can happen...
RE Ergo Edge, what's the thinking behind it? It seems counter-intuitive to me given that it's less like most holds you'll encounter outdoors than a simple edge or pocket?