[tommytwotone]

Goal - knock off the remaining new (to me) 7a needed to make 3 for 2019

2nd week of missus and kids being away on holiday, leaving me on my own!

M: Nowt - painting and tidying house, trying to get it ready for sale
T: Big Depot after work. Felt a bit knackered / undercooked so took it easy - low grade pottering.
W: Nowt - more house stuff
T: HIIT class on lunch - still brutal. Good workout. Down to London in afternoon for work - went out to Hip Hop Karaoke, no booze, performed, crashed out in hotel relatively early
F: work in London, then stuck in London thanks to the power outage, crashed at a mate's overnight
S: epic journey back from London
S: mega lie-in (till 11:30am!), then Leeds Depot session in amongst tip / Screwfix etc trips. Had a bash at Summer Bouldering League problems, pretty respectable showing. Felt like I did all the stuff I should, pulled a couple out of the bag after having to try hard.

[SA Chris]

went out to Hip Hop Karaoke, no booze, performed

Performed what? No-one does Karaoke sober.

[tommytwotone]

I did a rendition of Cypress Hill's "Insane In The Brain", which given it's about the perils of boozing is kind of apt!

I realised this wasn't the best song choice for a night in Shoreditch / Hoxton, when it dawned on me that c.95% of the audience weren't even born when the song came out in 1992...

[cheque]

I realised this wasn't the best song choice for a night in Shoreditch / Hoxton, when it dawned on me that c.95% of the audience weren't even born when the song came out in 1992...

[SA Chris]

or even better

[shark]

11.3-6 Average 158.1 up 0.3lbs on previous week

M.

T. AM Foron with Tom Cloudy bit of a breeze. Started on a horrid 6C. Did it with hangs. Not a great warmup. Flashed the 7a+ I’d failed to onsight or redpoint the previous week. Tom keen for A Couer a cris 7a+ which we’d tried before We both reworked it. He got it on redpoint with good conditions but sun came out on my go and I fell on the last hard move near the top tickling a good slot

W

T Morning. Warm 25degrees. Medonnet again for Bens benefit - it’s a long drive away. Somehow we forgot the mats. Ben distraught. Me and Tommy thought was hilarious. I spent all my time grappling with the classic Proue and got completely cooked and no send -but have the hard-won beta written down if I ever go back. Tommy got it but didn’t find it easy. Ben didn’t get it. They both did another more basic 7A up the hill that I didn’t try.

F Felt busted so decided to have a rest day. Went to Mondriond lake for a dip. Temps soared to 32 degrees followed by thunderstorms that night

S Slept badly. Claggy and sticky in morning so didn’t head out till lunchtime to Foron with Tom. Dogged up Couer a cris to warm up and put up rope for Tommy on the adjacent 7b, L’as de pic.Tommy had a go in it - looked hard, especially the star. I redpointed the 7a+ but got a bit of a pump on. Tommy had a failed redpoint then persuaded me to have a flash go which ended at the second bolt and I had a dog on the lower moves and came down. Powerful reachy moves on greasy slots - not my thing. Tommy then got it. I had another go failing at the second bolt again then worked it to the top. Decent rest then put in a big effort and got it. Very happy with that.

S Exhausting long drive home from Morzine, not without incident

Good family holiday and felt I was getting some endurance back by the end. Keen for the Oak when I get a report that it’s dry
 
Tommy doing Proue Assis at Medonnet. Love the way he closes on on the sidepull from a drag to a full crimp

[SA Chris]

but sun came out on my go and I fell on the last hard move near the top tickling a good slot

Aye, right.

[Yossarian]

M - Wall. Fingers still achy / sore, and then one of them split down the side of the nail. Great. Ok session in the end though.
T
W
T - Wall, ditto but finger joints feeling much worse. Wonder whether its synovitis.
F
S - Wall. Very gradual warm up / long rests, etc. Some decent flashes of new problems, progress on some harder things. Good times. We were there for four hours in the end and fingers still felt ok at the end.
S

Have session booked with physio (Cris Costa) at Mile End this week, so hopefully my shoulder injury will cease being an annoying mystery. Pretty syked to get back to some proper training.

Trip to Ansteys (totally focused on Empire) next Monday seems to be possible / probable weather-wise. Trip with daughter starting the following day is now up in the air thanks to horrendous weather forecasts for Scotland. Torridon was the first choice. We might end up in north Wales or the Peak, but now seriously considering Font as, like Torridon, it’s harder to fit into a term-time weekend. Also looking forward to getting back on Road Rage with Duncan sometime soon.

[SA Chris]

Go to N Wales or Font. At leas there are wet weather alternatives (wall etc). Sadly as much as i love it there, in Torridon there is little if weather is pish apart from walking in the rain and midges, or the pub.

[dunnyg]

Must be some surf up there somewhere?

[shark]

but sun came out on my go and I fell on the last hard move near the top tickling a good slot

Aye, right.

Cut me some slack Chris - no you cunt - take in, take in

[Fiend]

Don't short-rope him FFS!

[monkoffunk]

Can sympathise with anyone getting stuck in sharp situations attempting to take short cuts in shorts, with or without giant rodents.

STG - Sport projects. Do more DWS
Maintain Lose weight back 74kg.
MTG - Portland Font 7A+/B from unfinished list, autumn (or summer evenings).
LTG - 7C

M - Slightly hung over, day off. Slept a lot.
T - Oakwood. Mostly boulders.
W - Inductions new job
T - More inductions.
F - Project, Poole. Boulders.
S - Working.
S - Working.

Weather not looking great right now, trying to figure out a new routine living between three towns without an obvious place to train is harder than expected. Need more discipline this week on doing something at home when can’t get to wall! 75.6kg this week, getting back on track. Some optimism for a couple of projects when the weather breaks.
Stag do this weekend, I went on one when I was trying Fighting Torque and drank nothing. Don’t this I will be quite so good, but with any luck will be vaguely sensible.

[SA Chris]

Must be some surf up there somewhere?

Not really. Some small swell windows due to a bloody great Harris / Lewis in the way. Beaches like the one near Melvaig and Mellon Udrigle may have potential but nothing consistently reliable that I've heard of, and a long drive on single track roads for a speculative punt and nowhere to hire, so need your own kit.

[dunnyg]

Bloody islands...