[tomtom]

Good work on the coil, TT. I'm a bit confused by all the talk of crozzle though. The streak of crozzle to the right (without using the crack) is a different problem - The Wrath of Khan at 7B. So if you just climb the crozzle then you're not doing the Coil. My understanding is that The Coil climbs the crack (and you only really need to use the top bit) with recourse to crozzle out right if you want it. Hard to tell from your video but it looks like you keep your right hand low on the starting flake. I moved it up to the top crozzle which is a good two finger crimp before going to the break which allowed me to set my feet and be less stretched. Surely this is the natural way to climb it?

I've read it described as easy for the short, easy for the tall - bloody hard if you're inbetween... From the vids I've seen and when I was up there with TStub and Andy the crack gets used for the LH but you work your RH up the crozzles sorting feet as you go for a pop for the top. I tried using crozzles for my RH and it kind of helped, but (a) they were damp/drying and (b) I didnt really need to using some lank... I can see it being a 3* wall climb crimping teeny crozzles with smallish footholds with a pop for the top... Anyway...

[Goat]

Mon-    Rest
Tues-   One arm hangs, and a few 3 finger pullups. Meh well alrightish, just doing them to rest my right-hand pulleys.
Wed-    2 hour board session, ended with core and one-armer practice. Felt alright but not that brilliant. I set a few new projects.
Thurs-  1 hour 45 min board session, ended with core and one-armer practice. Felt meh. But at the end I got on the first project in my route book, which I had never done. Did it in a oner today, so I was pretty happy with that, especially considering that I only put that project in 6 months ago, and at the time it felt undoable.
Fri-      Rest- Played tennis but got rained off after 5 mins.
Sat-    1 hour 30 minute board session. Ended with core and one-armer practice. I no longer have a tweak in my right hand middle finger pulley. However, fully crimping on my right hand didn’t feel particularly safe, so I guess it is stilled a bit miffed, but nothing too bad. I also felt a slight tweak in my left elbow, nothing serious I just want to keep it in mind.
Sun-     Rest- Successfully played tennis

[Fiend]

I can mute my whining ego and address my myriad weaknesses in peace / be more like Fiend, etc.

LOL. It's worth pointing out that Fiend is a massive bag of neuroses, insecurity, self-rage etc etc who struggles to practise what he preaches due to actually really needing to try to get a better climbing attitude to preserve his....shreds of sanity....

[Yossarian]

I can mute my whining ego and address my myriad weaknesses in peace / be more like Fiend, etc.

LOL. It's worth pointing out that Fiend is a massive bag of neuroses, insecurity, self-rage etc etc who struggles to practise what he preaches due to actually really needing to try to get a better climbing attitude to preserve his....shreds of sanity....

Don’t sell yourself short.
I’m going to order some vests in the morning...

[Steve R]

M - Rest
T- Chee Cornice.  2nd look at powerplant, dogged again, got clips in then started redpoints.  1st go got up to the crimps then realised i'd forgotten to put my knee pad on, oops.  2nd go fell on rockover onto headwall just after crux bit.  Then did it next go.  A bit unexpected but pleased to have the PE for it to feel relatively steady (I guess routes like this always do when you do 'em).  Then just a bit of mileage on big zipper and martial music.  Neither steady away but endurance def improving as got up them a bit tired without falling off.
W - Rest     
T- Wall pm.  did some of a new set on comp wall then board.  Felt pretty bad on it - heavy, no snap.
F-  ~40min light run.  wall pm.  bit on board then 3x bouts of 10mins on 10mins off easy traversing/pump managing.
S- ~40min light run
S-Chee cornice again.  3xdogs on Roof Warrior.  Had half hoped might be able to do it in a session but didn't feel on very good form so miles off that in reality.  Possibly insufficient warm up contributed as felt like never really recovered after 1st dog getting the clips in.  did manage a decentish link; from knee bar to top.  cool route, keen to get back on it soon. Optimistic go at cordless madness after.  Fell a move or two after where it leaves cosmo which was pleased with and better than expected.  got sequence sorted for next time so again, keen to have another go soon.  No ticks but really good day.  Cornice was surprisingly very quiet.

Weight 74kg so another kilo down, 4 to go - will aim for half a kilo per week from here, marathon not a sprint approach.  Good days in Cheedale this week.  Disappointing session on board on Thurs as felt good warming up and was rested.  I suppose a drop in power and strength is inevitable as soon as you start prioritising more endurance stuff though.   

[Will Hunt]

I have come to the conclusion that Yorkshire Limestone trad is probably the biggest overall test of your ability as a trad climber that you're likely to find on single pitch routes in the UK.

Too say the least - don't forget the loose rock, abseil approaches and tides that you have to contend with at Attermire.

Abseiling? Tides? Entirely predictable and not exactly difficult. There is some loose rock at Attermire, from the perspective of a gritstoner if not Fiend.

I think a better way of putting it would be to say that I don't think the grades are stiffer anywhere and the challenge often comes from things that aren't doing the moves. It can be difficult to read and the gear is fiddly so routes of the same physical difficulty as elsewhere generally feel pumpier. The trickiness of reading the rock and the ever-present possibility of finding loose stuff at the top mean that you have to put in a lot more gear as well. Away from places like Twistleton and Malham, the gear is often in rock that's a bit flakey or snappy-looking, so it's not like grit or volcanic where you can lob with impunity.

It's not entirely universal. Malham and Gigg South Upper and Twistleton didn't feel too bad. Maybe it's just a few crags where the grades are a bit stiff.

Feel free to mock me for my opinion.

[webbo]

After mocking your previous post and remembering we used to solo things at Attermire. I went and dug out my old Yorkshire Limestone guide and despite my rapidly fading memory I was correct.
We used to solo things like Red Light, Blue Light and Legover Groove, this was in the days when Wombat, Carnage, Midnight Cowboy and Slender Loris were all graded HVS and you think you’ve got it tough.

[tomtom]

Is this a "Will going to climb and UPgrading routes" scandal?

Akin to the Will Hunt isn't tall conspiracy theories

[Fiend]

Away from the 3 star classics (genuine ones not weirdo "give stars to any old crumbly bs" in the old YL guides ones), inland limestone is pokey as fuck. Everyone has sodded off sport climbing and the less classic trad routes are neglected, likely to have changed due to loose rock, grass, etc, and full of bullshit grades compared to things like Wombat and Midnight Cowboy etc which have been actually sorted out. Add in the inherently unappealing nature of the base material which makes it harder to get psyched to deal with some nasty little dusty wobbly sandbag... Less of an all-round trad test and more of a test of grot tolerance.

[dunnyg]

I wish my knob was as big as webbos so I could wave it around as much.

[Will Hunt]

Away from the 3 star classics (genuine ones not weirdo "give stars to any old crumbly bs" in the old YL guides ones), inland limestone is pokey as fuck. Everyone has sodded off sport climbing and the less classic trad routes are neglected, likely to have changed due to loose rock, grass, etc, and full of bullshit grades compared to things like Wombat and Midnight Cowboy etc which have been actually sorted out. Add in the inherently unappealing nature of the base material which makes it harder to get psyched to deal with some nasty little dusty wobbly sandbag... Less of an all-round trad test and more of a test of grot tolerance.

Even the starred classics are a bit neglected in places. The finish of Recessed Slab was keeping hands low and building high feet so you could then reach right up and over and grab armfuls of the better rooted grass. Amber Gambler, which is brilliant, had an impenetrable ivy cornice which Dave hacked at a bit before he did it. Stood on the ledge at the top looking down you couldn't actually see any rock, just ivy. To pull over this you had to crimp a little limestone pebble embedded in the earth on the ledge, which started to peel away as you did so 

And yet the climbs are so satisfying, probably because when you get to the top you feel like you were really tested on a number of different abilities - many of which cannot be honed on a campus board.

[tomtom]

Away from the 3 star classics (genuine ones not weirdo "give stars to any old crumbly bs" in the old YL guides ones), inland limestone is pokey as fuck. Everyone has sodded off sport climbing and the less classic trad routes are neglected, likely to have changed due to loose rock, grass, etc, and full of bullshit grades compared to things like Wombat and Midnight Cowboy etc which have been actually sorted out. Add in the inherently unappealing nature of the base material which makes it harder to get psyched to deal with some nasty little dusty wobbly sandbag... Less of an all-round trad test and more of a test of grot tolerance.

So to summarise this week: off the beaten path inland lime is tottering horror type II fun choss and we should all be focussing on restoring holds on polished bouldering testpieces whilst topless. 

And Will is tall.

[andy_e]

I wish my knob was as big as webbos so I could wave it around as much.

Normally I'd agree but he's waving it in Will's face so I don't mind so much.

[36chambers]

Away from the 3 star classics (genuine ones not weirdo "give stars to any old crumbly bs" in the old YL guides ones), inland limestone is pokey as fuck. Everyone has sodded off sport climbing and the less classic trad routes are neglected, likely to have changed due to loose rock, grass, etc, and full of bullshit grades compared to things like Wombat and Midnight Cowboy etc which have been actually sorted out. Add in the inherently unappealing nature of the base material which makes it harder to get psyched to deal with some nasty little dusty wobbly sandbag... Less of an all-round trad test and more of a test of grot tolerance.

So to summarise this week: off the beaten path inland lime is tottering horror type II fun choss and we should all be focussing on restoring holds on polished bouldering testpieces whilst topless. 

And Will is tall.

Don't forget the rumour that Ondra glued Silence

[webbo]

I wish my knob was as big as webbos so I could wave it around as much.

Just do few solo sessions on Yorkshire lime and you will be able to use it to keep your neck warm when it’s cold.

[36chambers]

I wish my knob was as big as webbos so I could wave it around as much.

Just do few solo sessions on Yorkshire lime and you will be able to use it to keep your neck warm when it’s cold.

and that's when it's cold!

[dunnyg]

Do you have to tell everyone before it grows or is it just the climbing? Asking for a friend (who needs a scarf).

[webbo]

The best way is to wait till Will fails on some 50 year old route then solo it and before you know it, you will find it’s long enough to use as a spare rope.

[Will Hunt]

Keep going, Webbo, it's great. We were actually laughing about this at the crag. We had a similar discussion and we came to the conclusion that you could express such thoughts on UKBouldering but that Steve Webster would definitely be in like a shot to remind everyone how much better everyone was in the 70s and 80s. I do wonder whether you've got a little database of pre-written reminders of your superiority that you can easily adjust to fit the route/crag to save time?

As far as I'm aware, nobody "failed" on a route on our little trip to the crag, but even if we had I wouldn't take any shame from failing on something that Tony Barley put up (especially if whatever shiny pegs it may have had in 1970 are now just snapped off pieces of rust). He was a very good, very bold climber.

[webbo]

Don’t worry will I have always known my place in the pecking order. I had just led one of those short routes then graded HVS on Malhams left wing, Martin Berzin who led it before stated it was at least E2 if not harder. At which Mike Hamill said how can it be as he’s just done it pointing at me.

[Will Hunt]

Don’t worry will I have always known my place in the pecking order. I had just led one of those short routes then graded HVS on Malhams left wing, Martin Berzin who led it before stated it was at least E2 if not harder. At which Mike Hamill said how can it be as he’s just done it pointing at me.

 

I'm going to have to file that away in my own database of snarks.

[dunnyg]

When the weather gets shit again, i'm going to make a customisable random snark generator. Enter crag, year of birth and it will generate something appropriate. Anyway, this is as close as I get to posting in power club. Sorry to get 

\end{powerclubhijack}