[TobyD]

Hi all, thinking about going sport climbing somewhere at the end of July,  probably for a week or so, so European really. Any suggestions? I'll specify not Ceuse as I think it's better earlier or later in the year, and I know the UK is good then, before anyone suggests it! Although a novel UK destination might be ok, never been to tunnel wall for example. 

[spidermonkey09]

Gorges du Loup is supposed to be good in mid summer I believe?

I thought Ceuse was perfect in July, maximises the amount of shade each day while the sun is high!

[Paul B]

https://www.planetmountain.com/english/Rock/crags/falesia.html?idfalesia=131

[shark]

Briancon Area is good. Nothing singularly world class but high up, lots of crags facing different directions, lots of development and a good guidebook which is regularly updated to keep up with developments (welcome to borrow my copy)

[jwi]

Flatanger?

La Saume near Briançon. Make sure that you have a high clearance vehicle or that you like hiking.

La Hermida? But you need to be lucky with the weather.

[spidermonkey09]

Briancon Area is good. Nothing singularly world class but high up, lots of crags facing different directions, lots of development and a good guidebook which is regularly updated to keep up with developments (welcome to borrow my copy)

 
Going there on holiday next week. If you or anyone else has any crag recommendations I'd be keen to hear them, particularly crags with a wide spread of grades. I'm feeling a bit overwhelmed by the guidebook, theres a lot in it.

[shark]

Start at Mont Dauphin if you want to climb in the sun or Rue de Masques if seeking shade and take it from there. They are only a mile apart as the crow flies

Some more info here: https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,28310.msg556293.html#msg556293

[Ged]

Briancon Area is good. Nothing singularly world class but high up, lots of crags facing different directions, lots of development and a good guidebook which is regularly updated to keep up with developments (welcome to borrow my copy)

 
Going there on holiday next week. If you or anyone else has any crag recommendations I'd be keen to hear them, particularly crags with a wide spread of grades. I'm feeling a bit overwhelmed by the guidebook, theres a lot in it.

Where are you staying? Fair old drive between some areas. In general, I found the guidebook is less overwhelming if you just ignore the crags that aren't three star (the star system is for crags rather than individual routes). I thought the three star crags were great, some of the two star ones pretty poor.

Rue dws masque is great if you're down that way. Around vallouise there's some great stuff too. Entre aygues I think it's called? And fessourier. That place has some great long 7's. Up at ailfroide, the canyon sector is good for 6c and 7a

[Ged]

Other July suggestions, I'd second the flatanger suggestion. It's brilliant. Cheap flights to ttondheim I think.

[TobyD]

Other July suggestions, I'd second the flatanger suggestion. It's brilliant. Cheap flights to ttondheim I think.

Worth going for a week  though? Most people I know have been for at least 2. Good up to 7c?

[TobyD]

Start at Mont Dauphin if you want to climb in the sun or Rue de Masques if seeking shade and take it from there. They are only a mile apart as the crow flies

Some more info here: https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,28310.msg556293.html#msg556293

Actually climbed around here for a while  a long time ago I remember going to much better crags than  Mont dauphin, but it is more than a decade ago

[Ged]

I would've thought it's worth it.  It's about a 3 hour (very scenic) drive from Trondheim, can't imagine the flight is too long.  Up to 7c it's great, although after a week you'd probably need to start redpointing harder stuff.  There is a reasonable looking crag near the airport too.  It's a very beautiful place to spend a week.  Only downside could be the weather.  We had a week of glorious sunshine in August, as part of a much longer trip.  It rained the rest of the time.  If the flights are cheap enough, you could always bail somehwere else last minute if the forecast is awful.

[spidermonkey09]

Where are you staying? Fair old drive between some areas. In general, I found the guidebook is less overwhelming if you just ignore the crags that aren't three star (the star system is for crags rather than individual routes). I thought the three star crags were great, some of the two star ones pretty poor.

Rue dws masque is great if you're down that way. Around vallouise there's some great stuff too. Entre aygues I think it's called? And fessourier. That place has some great long 7's. Up at ailfroide, the canyon sector is good for 6c and 7a

Staying in Argentiere la Bessee. Seems reasonably central so might have accidentally booked a good location. Thanks for the steer re:  3* crags.

Any (mythical?) crags that have some good 5's and good 7's reasonably close to each other would be great. Have heard Mont Dauphin good for this?

[shark]

Yes - sector Ralph at Dauphin is good for that

Edit - maybe low 6’s rather than 5’s. Can’t remember

[dunnyg]

Just a heads up in Briancon, weather is supposed to crap out for the next week from Sunday... Think we might bail to finale.. Only done easy stuff/via ferratas here so far but you can easily chase sun/shade here and its an ace place to hang round. Good gear shop in briancon too, camping isnt too expensive if that is your accommodation, seems to be enough van dossing spots about too.

[Fultonius]

Obviously not Europe....but....waterfall boven in Sud Afrique?  Heard it's amazing.

[jwi]

A bit far for a week though.... But Waterval is what we're trying this year to escape the heat in July. I will report back on this.

[TobyD]

Obviously not Europe....but....waterfall boven in Sud Afrique?  Heard it's amazing.

Now that sounds exciting.  Might see if I can get more than a week off, where do you fly to?

[jwi]

Johannesburg

[spidermonkey09]

Just a heads up in Briancon, weather is supposed to crap out for the next week from Sunday... Think we might bail to finale.. Only done easy stuff/via ferratas here so far but you can easily chase sun/shade here and its an ace place to hang round. Good gear shop in briancon too, camping isnt too expensive if that is your accommodation, seems to be enough van dossing spots about too.

Fingers crossed it has de-crapped come next weekend! Got an air bnb so will have to make the best of it regardless. Glad to hear its a good spot though. Keen for some via ferrata/easy stuff recommendations if you have the time.

[SA Chris]

We stayed up in Fressiniere for a week or so back in the early 90s and there are some good things up there, I think we climbed some of the easier things on the Grande Falaise. It was a bit cooler up there than in the main valley. I remember L'Horloge at Argentiere being one of the scrappiest sport crags I've ever been to. Avoid.

[SA Chris]

Johannesburg

If you are flying straight in it's a straight motorway drive from the airport (once you get on it), but if you were flying from Cape Town, Nelspruit Airport is closer (plus you can sample the great bouldering near the airport). You staying at Tranquilitas?

[jwi]

We're staying in the hostel/climber's lodge

[SA Chris]

Gustav's one in town?

[jwi]

Yes that's the one.