Yes High repute. I have. The examples I gave above are real and made a big difference to my climbing (mainly in sport / bouldering / indoor). I went from a Shark to a Shark+.
I took some deep breaths, went and soloed White Wand, then came back in an amped-but-calm state and dispatched.
In that case I’ll aspire to shark(-) If When I do the Oak I’ll change my user name
Getting back to the OP, who I'm pretty sure is talking about bouldering not redpointing, an approach I've used a few times effectively is to go and solo something fairly hard/ bold (for you) to reset your brain a bit, from the try-hard-but-fail state to smoth-flow-failure-not-an-option.
This scenario has played out many times in my climbing... Three climbers are trying the same route/boulder. You're all of similar ability. You all get to the stage where the moves are worked and the route/problem will fall any go now. Jacob does it the next go. Hugh sends it around 10 goes later and Shark is still trying it 10 years later. What separates these three climbers is their mental game.I think this mental game is deeply ingrained. Perhaps it's genetic or the sum result of all the events in our life before this point. Either way it's who we are.
Therefore, it is also key to train to remain focussed despite being scared or despite being anxious about a redpoint. How to do this is a different kettle of fish of course. I think mindfulness - awful new wave clap-trap that it is - might offer some help.
Have you succeeded in getting nearer to being a Jacob? or have you always been and remained a Hugh?
Another factor or perspective worth considering is identity. In order for Shark or Hugh to send like Jacob they have to believe it is part of who they are and how they climb to send routes quickly, this is more than just positive attitude.Hazel talks a lot about this in her mental training, the process of improving your mental game is not skin deep and involves a fundamental change in the way you see yourself and react to external stimuli.
I've thought about this a lot recently, as a result of climbing with Barrows, who is very much a Jacob to my Hugh.
We make mistakes when we lose focus. Consider making a cup of tea; a move that is technically possible for most of us. And yet, when we don't pay attention we sometimes spill the tea, or knock the cup over.Lots of things in climbing make us lose focus, like being scared on a runout or getting performance anxiety near the end of a link. These things are distracting, and paying attention to them reduces the attention we are giving our movement. So we try to train so we don't get scared, or keep relaxed. That's OK I guess, but has very limited results in my experience. You will always get scared. When a project matters to you, you'll always be anxious about success.Therefore, it is also key to train to remain focussed despite being scared or despite being anxious about a redpoint.
Quote from: 2 Tru on May 23, 2019, 03:15:15 pmAnother factor or perspective worth considering is identity. In order for Shark or Hugh to send like Jacob they have to believe it is part of who they are and how they climb to send routes quickly, this is more than just positive attitude.Hazel talks a lot about this in her mental training, the process of improving your mental game is not skin deep and involves a fundamental change in the way you see yourself and react to external stimuli. This is what I was talking about higher up the thread as what I took as the most important message of the Mastermind book.
Reckon banking more successes as Doylo said should help with that.
view the main objective of a session as just occupying a day until I feel justified in going home for telly and booze
If this thread has any conclusion maybe it's that there are lots of strategies to get into the right mindset and you might have to experiment a bit to find the things that work for you individually, and the different scenarios in which different things work..?