Steve, I’d lower the intensity but increase the volume. Maybe consider a solid 6-8 week ancap phase moving into summer then building the finger up from there. These issues take a while. Lots of up-downing on auto belays or circuits on the 10 minutes. Try to hang from a jug rather than step off completely even if both feet are on the ground 👍
Lagers describes it as 5B to do the move, 6B to bail.
Think you've said in the past that you rarely go to new places preferring to stick with what you know? Maybe you should branch out elsewhere, climb a load of stuff at lower grades, but climb them well not just scrape up them. Keep repeating until they feel easy for the grade. You're clearly strong enough but maybe need to work on expanding your movement vocabulary, and your belief in it. Then you'll spot the knack more easily and won't be getting shut down on stuff you feel you should be capable of.
Murph. Here's a very soft 7B... though the move might be a bit of a stretch sure theres another way...
Power ClubGoals: ....62kg...7C regularly in UKCurrently: Still 75.7kg, ...found out my 1 rep max hang on one arm is only 2 kg's under my body weight was super happy with that
Quote from: xelaxela on May 15, 2019, 10:30:21 amPower ClubGoals: ....62kg...7C regularly in UKCurrently: Still 75.7kg, ...found out my 1 rep max hang on one arm is only 2 kg's under my body weight was super happy with that If you hit your 62kg goal (or even get half way there) whilst maintaining current finger strength I'd have thought 7C's would most likely serve as pleasant warm ups whilst touring around on 8B's.
Yeah, I think that’s what it says in the rankings when all other variables are taken into account . I’m still just deciding between a cwp, Lopez, Anderson or moon protocol. Anyone experimented with these? Which showed the most gains?
Hanging one arm from the middle slot of a bm2k = 8B strength?For real??