A couple of boulders in the torridon area. Malc's Arête they ain't, but they're nice enough, more sheltered than the celtic jumble if it's windy and cold, and very accessible.
Moat boulders
Just after the first hairpins on the diabaig road there is a cattle grid with a large layby just beyond (enough space for 3 cars). On the opposite side of the road are a few boulders in the woods, below a broken crag and waterfall. All of the described problems are on the left hand boulder, but the other boulders would yield more problems in the grade 4 to 6 range. As would the left side of the crag above and the tier of crags above this, which has some quality easier highballs to be done.
Bàta Beag 7b+
The ramp and prow line on the left side of the boulder. Sit start matched on the smiley jug rail. Follow the lovely sloping ramp out rightwards to the little prow and climb this. A sitting start under the prow (lh vertical sidepull, rh slopey crimp) is nice too, at about 6c.
Lyme Time 6b+
Start matched on the left end of same rail as Bàta Beag but go straight up on slopey crimps and up the slab to finish
6b the groove, with an awkward sit start off the boulders
Kid Gloves 6c
The left side of the vertical face. sit start (rh on curved crimp that looks like the top of a snow peaked mountain, lh on a square cut protruding crimp at a similar level). Pull up left to crimps in the thin break, then up left again to carefully use the fragile flake to gain a nice flat crimp on the left then straight up to finish.
Cluais Balla 7a
The right side of the vertical face. from the same sit start as kid gloves follow the break up right to a big span to the cool juggy ear in a pocket then on to the top. Probably easier for those who don't have to undercut the break.
Hairpin boulder
This is the boulder above the diabaig road on the first hairpins after leaving torridon, with one steep side, which almost overhangs the road.
Wot's Hairpinning 6c
The left arête of the face is a short prow, which climbs nicely and doesn't give up till your stood on top. Start sitting in the dip, lh on the large sloper and rh on the good sidepull next to it.
Chicane 7b
From a stretched sit start matching the blind flake in the middle of the face, make a hard pull on and go for the nice juggy pinch on the flake up and right. From here go up left past the crucifix crack and back up right to a perfect jug on the lip of the boulder. 7a from a crouch start matching the starting flake.
Accidents Hairpin 5
Heading up right after the first move shares the same crux but is considerably easier after this, following lovely juggy pinches and pocket, so is arguably better from a standing start at about 5 (careful on the horizontal pinch, it moves, and could leave you lying on the road!)
I've got a few pics that I'll try and figure out how to post at some point.
