[shark]

For the avoidance of doubt Power Club is a designated safe space for micro, macro and even meso aggressions.

11.1

M –Rest day 5 of 7. Sonia does the Boston marathon 

T-Rest day 6 of 7. Samuel Adams brewery tour

W-Rest day 7 0f 7 Visit MIT and Harvard and catch plane

T- Arrive back in Manchester midday. Evening. Jet lagged but determined to do an FB / Ergo Edge max hangs session. Not too shoddy

F. Eve Tor. Hot. Felt tired. Just me there. Did sections of Bens but tips felt thin and pulling quickly became painful. Did OK

S. Turned 55. Midday – 30 mins AeroCap on systems board

S. PM FB / Ergo Edge max hangs session. Wore shorts and scrote got pinched between two plates. Ouch. Spurred on to a better performance. Hee haw!
Eve. Crag X. No one in layby when I got there then Stone pulled over along with another car and asked if Id show Matthew W and friend the holy place. Took them down and showed them the ancient artefacts. They said they would go and get their pads. Didn’t see them again. Not sure what I said. OK session re-familiarising myself on JR/Moffatrocity   

Too hot for Malham at moment. Maybe friday

[Duma]

T-Rest day 6 of 7. Samuel Adams brewery tour

Jealous.

[Will Hunt]

T - Ilkley. Arrived at did Baby Spice. Then minced around getting action shots. A couple of VSs at the end.

Su - Castlebergh guidebook checking. Got loads done and a few action shots in the bank. A couple of easy things climbed plus a 7a in scorching connies.

[Duma]

Power Club

Goals: Uninjured, 70kg, 8A in UK, Rocklands in June.

M -  battered from the weekend, lots of aches especially delts. Went to wall anyway as other half away with work so at a loose end. Intended to just do recovery circuits but got distracted by reclimbing some oranges that had been tweaked since last week, so mediumish bouldering I suppose. 30PU, 15VSit, 15SU.

T - 30PU, 15VSit, 15SU.

W - 30PU, 15VSit, 15SU, 20PINCU.

T -  Beach with daughter. Playing in surf, damming streams etc. TCA briefly in eve, warmed up and got straight on 35° Black, did crux to top straight off at end of warm up, next go did crux from start but dropped next move, next go did it fine. Chuffed to put this to bed, def brought my undercut crapness into sharp relief. Managed good link on another black after but stopped early as wanted to train Friday too. 30PU, 15VSit, 15SU, 10PINCU.

F - TCA am, not feeling full of energy as had been up at 5 to drop gf at airport. Only brief session but surprised and pleased to tick off the black I'd made progress on yesterday. This has a weird powerful undercut start so hopefully this and the 35° one I managed earlier in the week are evidence of improvement on undercuts. Found some low undercuts on the moonboard and did touches after. TCA eve, went back after work, intended circuits but ended up on more blacks, less steep stuff this time and again surprised to do well, managed to tick one that I'd not managed the crux move on previously, and tickled the last hold on another. 30PU, 15VSit, 15SU, 10PINCU.

S - drive to Pembroke, play in the sea. 30PU, 15VSit, 15SU, 10PINCU.

S - play in the sea.

Av 70.7 kg.

Happy with this week, pleased to be making progress on the blacks again esp the 35°. Weight not brilliant but I drink more when it's sunny...

[Duma]

Also, well done Mrs shark!

[nai]

M - Felt sluggish when I woke up but thought I might be able to battle through it and headed to Griffs to check out the low starts to Ovine anyway.  Other options might have been better but really just wanted to know what I was up against.  Could barely do a move on either, Lovine felt reachy and pretty unlikely but Low Left but felt like it might be possible on another day.
Also had a play on Mint Sauce, which felt like it could come together and is really nice; and the nails minging death crimps of Bovine Original, which didn't, and isn't.
Headed to Rubicon but couldn't even pull on to the Press or BSD which was telling.
Core back home.

T 6x5mins LI

W Rubicon - much better, no problem getting off the floor on the Press today and had a few stabs at fumbling the crimp.
BSD Low started to come together, few attempts almost getting the undercut on the stand, quite a warm morning so better connies and there's a chance.
Core back home, felt strongest ever so decided to do extra high intensity reps rather than the usual high volume floor circuit and managed proper Dragon Flags for the first time.  This is a YYFY, first tried them in October and could only manage tucked reverses, been doing harder and harder progressions since but didn't feel like I was close until five minutes before they happened.

Th - Second PE session, base level 7a circuit x2 laps, much improved on last time, had to add an extra set to fail on

F - Good Friday, wife away, kiddy hearding, etc

S -
Tried a few max hangs to start, bettered F3 PB despite the only FBing I've done for four months is monthly retest sessions.  Looks like there's more than one way to skin that cat.

PE3, upped intensity, maybe 7b+, Stopped after failng late in laps 7&8.  Good session.

Running out of time so had to squeeze in a conditioning session - 2 sets of scap pullups, Ts, Ys & reverses then core-  LVL sits, lever progressions, more Dragons, nice to prove Wed wasn't a fluke.

Took nipper to Hathersage pool in the PM, managed a few lengths but mostly just an hour of bobbing and gentle pootling around.

S - wife back from weekend away, hoped to get out in the afternoon but it was far too warm to be arsed.  Made a brief attempt at warming up in the garage before deciding I was still tired from Saturday.

[duncan]

Congratulations to Sonia.

STG: Manage aches and pains. A long day outside.
MTG: Colorado bucket list in May, a classic sea cliff E5 this summer.
LTG: 5.13 at 60; a LH&F BHAG.

M - Shoulder strength: IsYsTs on the rings etc. Hip stretches. Westway, bouldering warm-up, shoulder still tweaky so did not continue.
T - Shoulder strength. Hip stretches. Fingerboard pick-ups, 32.5kg on 18mm edges.
W - Shoulder strength. Westway, routes: 4 up to 5+ on the autobelay, shoulder still not great.
T - Drove to Pembroke with Hugo, grabbed a few easy routes at Saddle Head including the E1 right of Sea Mist before it got completely dark.
F - Carreg Y Barcud. Scorchio! Be Brave (E1), Stingray (E2) and Startling by the Sea (E2). Snapped a right hand-hold on the latter, just held on, barn-dooring around my left shoulder. It survived: a good test. Hugo also did Kitten Claws and Mean Feat and rescued an off-route leader on Be Brave. Not a bad day!
S - Chasing the shade, so morning at Rusty Walls and afternoon on the The Castle. Managed to abseil in with only one one of the ropes so escaped via Corrosion (E2). This seems to have lost rock as the description doesn’t fit and is now not very recommendable. Felt mentally and physically low energy and didn’t fancy anything much harder. Did Kramer vs Kramer (E2). This was great, a real uphill battle with crack climbing of all widths and not too many distracting face holds, excellent training for the US. It’s correctly been upgraded in the CC select, might even merit the legendary 5.9+.  Finished with Davey Crockett (HVSish) , a gem, similar standard and at least as good as Too Much Pressure.  Drove back to London.
S - Exhausted. Hip stretches.

Glorious weather in Pembroke, good climbing and company, and some bonus heat training for the US desert! Shoulder felt pretty good, I could probably increase the difficulty a bit but main priority now is to stay fit.

Plan: route mileage, long day(s), and a bit of leg conditioning.

[monkoffunk]

STG - Climb Fighting Torque
Plan/train for Spring Font trip
Weight 72-74kg
MTG - go to Ansteys, go to Font
More volume: Climb 10 routes 7a-7c+ by end June
Portland Font 7A+/B from unfinished list, autumn
LTG - 7C

M - PE circuit 6 laps. Hard. 3rd day on though. Massive focus on recovery and recruitment now! Yoga before sleep.

T - Yoga before sleep

W - Active recovery/recruitment session. 20 mins gentle warm up. Few high quality goes on board project over next 45 mins. Lots of rest. Actually did it, which was a big surprise. Have been trying that longer than Fighting Torque. Compared to stuff outdoors if thought 7Bish would be reasonable and would take me a lot longer. Promising. Yoga in evening.

T - 73.3kg. Odd day. Felt really sick and dizzy out of the blue around lunch. No obvious cause. Smashed a large dose of some anti emetic which worked nicely, but odd all the same.

F - Session 14 on Fighting Torque. Much better performance wise. Only started when sun off but still well over 20 degrees.   Warm with no t shirt at 2000. Did a 6b then clips in FT. First go struggled, off at shield. Expected that, good warm up. Second go best go yet. Up to top of crux, did crux move. Got high right foot, slightly off hold, just needed to drop knee and grab jug. Felt strong, thought would go. Suddenly right hand just pinged and was off. Third go, pinged off undercuts. Fourth, pinged off just past undercuts again feeling super strong. Fifth go tired, but still managed to fight up to top of shield, was never happening though.

Best performance and strongest feeling. Three goes falling when hands pinged off holds. New high point by part of a foot move. Do truly think might have gone if 10 degrees colder. Going to be colder on Thursday. Will have to not have the most excessive Easter....

Lots of positives and great day out on rock with good people. Can’t feel disappointed with how I climbed. Still enjoying process, but next time I think I’ll limit attempts and try and tick off some 7s while I’m at it.

S - Realised how much climbing I did day before when I woke up! Started day with really good yoga session which felt amazing. Did a short core session which was also positive in that I held a front lever for a perceptible unit of time for the first time ever. Real battle of day will be limiting Prosecco and chocolate as family around me end lent in style.

S - Yoga. Good. Core. Slow pull ups to warm up. Flat jug.
5 hanging crunch tuck things.
5 hanging leg raise
5 single leg raises far as can reach both legs
5 front lever reps
3 rounds.
Couple one arm hangs
Hot cross buns and roast lamb.
Probably more excessive than should have been...

[SA Chris]

M –Rest day 5 of 7. Sonia does the Boston marathon 

Awesome, How did she find it? Rowena had appalling conditions last year! Loved the city though.

STG - London Marathon, less than a week to go.
MTG - weight down, get on rocks
LTG - projects.


M- attempt at running intervals 5.9km

T - nothing

W - 5.5 km easy pace. Boulder session in evening. Felt OK, pretty strong

T - weight 13st 2lbs, just 2 off race weight. Lunchtime yoga.

F - shitty day at work, sun was shining, no-one was in office and i had a ton to do. left office at 6:30, did 10 miles in 1hr 16 - a pace much faster than I should have, but felt the need to thrash it a bit (probably stupidly). felt great after though.

S - in town, walking tour to see all the new artwork on the buildings https://www.eveningexpress.co.uk/fp/news/local/video-aberdeen-streets-come-alive-with-colour-as-nuart-festival-officially-launches/ worth a wander should anyone find themselves here.

S - easter egg trail with kids. Glorious weather.

486km in training outdoors this year, plus a few treadmill sessions. As it stands I'll be at the start line without any major injuries, (touch wood) which was the main goal. Just hope the weather cools down a bit or else it may all go a bit wobbly. Training has been an interesting process, pushing it out a bit week on week, and walking the line between tweaks and injuries!

And a reminder if anyone else wants to donate to the cause;

https://mydonate.bt.com/fundraisers/chrisfryervmlm2019

[Coops_13]

M:

T: Movement Climbing & Fitness Baker. Large wall with really good looking ropes area. Bouldering a bit smaller, nice that it was graded though. Felt a bit soft as I flashed a few V6s… Everyone really friendly and had a good min-sesh on a 40 board upstairs. Campus board spacing whack at this wall though - 1-4-7 way too easy... Finished with some stretching. Found out Spot is opening a new gym 10 mins walk from new apartment - 19k sq ft bouldering and Kilter + Tension boards. Psyched!

W:

T: Movement Climbing & Fitness Rino. Huge wall, just for bouldering. No way I could get round the whole thing in a session. Really good setting, lots of outdoorsy problems - none of this comp style wank you get in the UK. Grading again a bit soft but it had circuits up to V12 - V14! Definitely one of the best walls I've been to. Spent most of time climbing problems, flashed a few V6 - 8s. Almost flashed a V8 - 10 but then couldn't get back there. Finished with some romanian deadlifts up to 135lb

F:

S: Arapahoe Basin spring skiing. First time skiing for three years. V wobbly at start but got it back quick and was flying towards the end. Only a few wipe-outs as muscles were fatiguing. R knee hurting towards the end of the day so may have overdone it.

S: Moved into new place, lots of unpacking and even more online ordering - feeling v poor...

Knee sore today, hurts in rear right side when I straighten it - managed to walk 20 mins to work this morning so can't be too bad - fingers crossed I can manage through it and get outside this weekend!

[shark]

M –Rest day 5 of 7. Sonia does the Boston marathon 

Awesome, How did she find it? Rowena had appalling conditions last year! Loved the city though.

Last year was obviously appalling weather so good effort completing it. This year the weather was really hot then a deluge for the last four miles which was welcome giving a chance for her to cool down after ‘heartbreak hill’ at 21 miles. Course was more undulating than she expected. She has run under 4 hours before but came in at 4.25

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - rest.
Tue - rest.
Wed - fingers, garage session with a twist, nice. The twist being front3 fingers curls (fingertips pull ups) on 15 mm edge. Then usual one arm hangs on same edge and two arms on 9 mm edge. Trap Bar Deadlifts in between hangs, up to 132 kg, new PB after ages since my last TBD session.
Thu - snatch pulls 5x6 up to 56 kg. Clean and press 5x5. Simple and effective.
Fri - some system and some weights: clean and press x10, pull ups x7, x3. Very tired.
Sat - boxing bag.
Sun - rest.

[SA Chris]

M –Rest day 5 of 7. Sonia does the Boston marathon 

Awesome, How did she find it? Rowena had appalling conditions last year! Loved the city though.

Last year was obviously appalling weather so good effort completing it. This year the weather was really hot then a deluge for the last four miles which was welcome giving a chance for her to cool down after ‘heartbreak hill’ at 21 miles. Course was more undulating than she expected. She has run under 4 hours before but came in at 4.25

It's a great time! I have similar concerns about weather in London this weekend.

[SA Chris]

S: Arapahoe Basin spring skiing. First time skiing for three years. V wobbly at start but got it back quick and was flying towards the end. Only a few wipe-outs as muscles were fatiguing. R knee hurting towards the end of the day so may have overdone it.

Great place. I hit it once just as they opened East Wall traverse after a couple of foot of fresh 2 days before. Just a bonkers free for all. The runs directly off Pallavicini are probably some the steepest lift accessed I've ever done. You need to get over to Winter park too, my old haunt for 2 seasons.

Looking on map, looks like a new BC gate and loads more terrain to get to!

[gollum]

M - Push day, working on multiple reps. Bench, incline and decline all in the 8-12 rep range and up to 75k. A bit of shoulders work at around 8-10 reps and finish off with some scapular work and core.
Steady treadmill run at lunch as I’m back on call and so struggle to get outside unless I’m running in circles.
Depot in the evening. Warm up with some edge pulls on the 14 mm BM2K edges with 15k added and then on to some campus work. Right arm definitely fires better than left but will keep at it to redress the balance.......playing with the halfway rungs to get similar range of motion in top of movement.
Finish off with strength intervals. Definitely a solid workout for fingers, arms and core.

T - Solid legs session this morning with Squats for triples up to 120 and deadlifts for doubles to 140. Felt better than I have in a while. Pull us and some levers to get some other work done. Crack on with a treadmill run concentrating on form and cadence.
Quick session at the Depot between work stuff. Max hangs on centre of BM followed by a few repeaters, which I need to do a bit more of. Then do a 6 problems in 6 minutes for 3 sets, which gets me tired. Then finish with half an hour on new purples, some flashes, some feel doable with a bit of effort and some feel nails. Goal is to get all this set done before they go. Game on!

W - Push day for 5x5. Bench up to 85k, followed by decline and incline Dumbbell work. A bit of TRX and press ups and finish the session with a bit of shoulder work for each of the three heads of the deltoid. A good solid maintenance session.
Lunch run. Nice and steady, speeding up a bit at the end.

T - Pull day. Quick deadlifts warm up followed by Roman Chair and shrugs. Then do a bit of core work before doing a few sets of doubles on OAP with a bit of weight on RH and a bit of assistance on LH. Last exercise is 10 seconds 90 degree locks which are okay on both arms.
Still on call, so still on treadmill. Steady trot playing around with slower and quicker paced at the end.
Depot in the evening, just for fun. Start off with some edge pulls with 17.5k added for 5 sets. This feels like a really good way to warm my fingers. Then have lots of fun with the purples and a reasonable level of success, although some are definitely going to take a bit of work. Fun times with friends are really what its all about.

F - Long run day, which is particularly long as have to do it on the treadmill. Take it steady and watch a film as I go….two and a bit hours later all done without too much effort.
Stretching and rehab for legs and shoulders later in the day.

S - Push day. Benching for triples up to 100k which I think has been a while since I last did that and then on to triples for decline and incline. Do a bit of volume shoulder pressing which pleasingly is completely without pain. Some TRX work on IYTs and then finish with some tricep accessory work.
Depot session. Warm up with a bit of campusing and pleased that fire off all my benchmarks. Into a project session. Start with Steady Intro on left and do it in two halves, which is best I’ve ever managed. Then go onto the RH version, on which I manage the same......just. Finish project session with Zoo York Medium problem, on which I consistently fall off trying to hold a pinch. Feels like it’s been a battle but making progress on this board. Tick off a few more purples before I go home, although get shut down by an equal number.
Short run in the sun when I get home.

S - Pull day at the gym. More deadlifts followed by rows and Roman chair. Then get into single arm work with 2 reps of OAP for 4 sets, finishing with 4 on RH. Then do some 10 second locks at 90 degrees varying the body position with each set which alters the tension in my shoulders. Finish with some scapular activations and core work.
Steady treadmill trot to get the distance up to target.
Then go to Depot for a chilled session and to get out of the heat. Play with more purples, slowly ticking them off.  Do a round of 6 problems in 6 minutes for 3 sets on the purples and finish with minute on two off. Safe to say feel pretty bushed by the end of it, but pleasantly so.

All feels like it's heading in the right direction. Slow and steady does it.

[Coops_13]

S: Arapahoe Basin spring skiing. First time skiing for three years. V wobbly at start but got it back quick and was flying towards the end. Only a few wipe-outs as muscles were fatiguing. R knee hurting towards the end of the day so may have overdone it.

Great place. I hit it once just as they opened East Wall traverse after a couple of foot of fresh 2 days before. Just a bonkers free for all. The runs directly off Pallavicini are probably some the steepest lift accessed I've ever done. You need to get over to Winter park too, my old haunt for 2 seasons.

Looking on map, looks like a new BC gate and loads more terrain to get to!

Yeah it was great, and snow was good for the most part - v warm though! Crazy that this area stays open till June!

[Murph]

Just had a brilliant Easter break and struggling to remember as far back as Monday.

M-stretches including the arm ones. Not entirely sure why. Fingerboard max hangs. Ok session. Strict half crimp up to +32 for 5s on bm med, up to +24 for 10s on bm small.
T-stretches. Thinking during them that if only I knew which stretch to stretch.
W-5k morning jog. stretches. Majored on pigeon this time. Cannot get near but you already knew that.
T-5k morning jog. Curbar after work. Warmed up on trackside but things weren’t going well as fell off strawberries a couple of times and that just doesn’t happen. Bad Lip was massively harder than when I first ticked it which didn’t bode well for Late Junction. BL eventually went but after 7-8 goes rather than 1-2. LJ sequence to BL was a path, but BL always felt hard. Eventually a couple of others turned up and they worked out that the intermediate on BL is actually quite useful. Had 1 maybe 2 good goes on LJ after that and it surely would have gone if fresh.
F-rest. Took kids up Mam Tor.
S-Round 3 on Late Junction. Thursday’s beta turned out to be the way after all and it didn’t put up much of a fight. Took two goes after cocking up the sequence the first time. This go actually survived some foot slip shenanigans. Was really pleased to get it, first of the grade this year.

I see there’s a fun looking 7C that goes into it so might give that a bash next. Took kids up Win Hill and had a 9k jog on return.

S-took kids to windgather. Stretches.
M (bank holiday bonus) - early morning at griffs. I have def had more sessions than is healthy on Ovine. I just can’t flipping do it. And each time I think this is the one. If only griffs wasn’t such a lovely spot with such great potential I might look elsewhere. Took kids up Lose Hill.

66.0kgs lightest of the year.

[Duma]

Nice one Murph, strong legging game.

[yetix]

M:rest
T:rest
W: recruitment hangs then went to Sour Milk Ghyll, managed to do Thermodynamics (7A+) and Lambrini Girls (7B/+) also tried the 7C exit but was strapped for time, so only had 1 go!
T:rest
F: Milestone's buttress, flashed Harvey Oswald stand (7A) and managed to work all the moves to the sit into the last move withing a few goes but was haemorrhaging skin far quicker than reasonable at the start of the bank holiday! Other half wanted to try UFOrb so I tried and sent Robs Roof (7A)
S:rest
S: Lily Savage boulders Inthe morning, managed to get Paul O'Grady stand (6C+/7A) and all the sit moves before it was in the sun, so another one to back to, also managed Lily Savage (7B) after battling a little with the first few moves.

Managed to fall off the jugs of Elephantiasis in the evening when feeling fatigued (definitely should have called it after the session at the Lily Savage boulders in hindsight!)

Had a really productive week so feeling psyched, got a finger that's got some light pain at the base of the A2, but hopefully a lighter week and it'll be fine!

[Coops_13]

Strong week Yetix 

[user deactivated]

Some fantastic microaggressions going on here! From subverting the title to reverting it (because my bs is intolerable) to wearing a pair of 80’s style troll pants in a microaggressive masterpiece of satire

[tomtom]

Good Murph. Ovine is a pig (ha!) of a problem. Not dared go back to it yet... really it’s the only one left for me to do there before I up my level a fairly significant notch... and it’s not one I’m especially keen on (that bloody sloper...) anyway.

Mon. Anston. Frodo. Felt terrible. Arrived after the schlep over the Woodhead and lay in my mats sapped of energy and feeling rubbish. Ate my lunch (it was 10:30) but couldn’t be arsed warming up. Was playing on Nazgul LH and tried lots of different sequences that all showed promise but gave up after an hour in full knowledge I was a way from my best. Tennis elbow felt alrightosh afterwards.

We: wasn’t sure whether to go out or not but Nai twisted my arm and I joined him at Rubicon for my first session there this year. Warm ups went well - sketched my way up millers tale first time (usually have to think about it) and felt ok on the rock. Fucked about on Kidos and the Press. Got nowhere on both but didn’t feel hopeless - no worse than last year really - press initially hurt my TE but it felt better after a while. Nai was climbing like a beast.

Fri. Quick morning Helsby hit. Some kind soul built a mini patio under the very slopey landing of the barrel buttress. And with two pads did the V3 roll out the barrel - that’s (for me) highball at 6-7 m. Great problem - slopey sligjtly dirty topout put me well out of my comfort zone and a foot slip as I was pressing out the top mantle gave me a good old adrenaline shot. Then worked the 7B Traverse start into it (Ron Burgundy’s moustache) which felt nails but doable nails compared to previous years I’ve tried it. A summer project... esp as I’ve now done the top (unlike my usual MO).

Easter weekend at parents in Kendal. Couple of short walks and lots of toddler running around activities. Just got back and got the nipper to bed at last

[Murph]

Thanks chaps. I got psyched about jazzy tights from seeing this picture of the Broomgrove glory days. If it was good enough for them...

[shark]

Where does one purchase tights like these?

Asking for a friend

[Murph]

Classic micro aggression there, Shark.
Amazon for £3 or £4. But can’t seem to find them at that price now.