Tue April 16
Climbing outdoors, Super Manjoc
7a/+ rp
8b+ Hangdog. Opened account on Disciple de Pyrrhon, a fairly short route with about 20 hard moves after some opening 7a-ish climbing. I did all moves except three (the crux)
8b+ Hangdog. 2nd time up and I managed to do the remaining moves, just… Did the three hard moves in “overlapping halfs” (2 moves + 2 moves) possibly helped a bit by tight top-rope
Fairly destroyed after this. Lost quite a bit of skin
Thu April 18
Climbing outdoors, Super Manjoc
6c rp.
8b+ hangdog (Disciple). Was too tired from tuesday’s session. Sussed out the intense climbing on the double tufa after the hardest moves. Couldn’t link the crux, which was the goal of today. Tried Alizée’s sequence on the crux, which was as impossible as expected.
8b+ hangdog (Disciple). Ouch. could still not do the crux. Totally spent. Forgot a draw on the route.
Finished the day by optimistically trying to dog an 8b. Manage to struggle up to the crux boulderproblem. Looked at it. Decided I’d have nothing of that.
Overly optimistic to return to supermanjoc after only one day of rest. Lesson learned.
Sat April 20
Climbing outdoors, Gorges du Tarn
Still pretty depleted from last two weeks excessive volume of climbing.
7a+ rp. 56m. A route I onsighted a few years back, so felt mostly like onsighting. Way too long and fiddly for warmup.
8a (Astrotarn) HD. Quite wet on the crack (first 20 m). Felt totally out of my element on the pockets. Where are all the pinches and kneebars?
8a (Astrotarn) HD. Second hd of astrotarn sussing out more of the moves. The crack was even wetter (seeping) later in the evening.
I need at least two days of rest soon, but I am on belay duty this easter weekend.
