UKBouldering.com

Shaftoe - Stone Age Man (Read 2253 times)

Smith42

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 74
  • Karma: +9/-0
Shaftoe - Stone Age Man
April 17, 2019, 12:06:17 pm

Saw this has been climbed a few times recently.  Anyone know where this goes over the lip? 

I thought it climbed the centre of the slab but I v watched the video of Orrin Coley climb SM as part of the Broken Arrow Link Up and he climbs the very right of the slab, sharing holds with Lost Arrowhead/Cave Dweller but staying left of the crack except for the odd foothold.

So I was just wondering if anyone knows if the middle of the slab was originally climbed as Stone Age Man or is the actual line to the right as OC video?   

harrison

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 14
  • Karma: +2/-0
#1 Re: Shaftoe - Stone Age Man
July 22, 2020, 12:52:25 pm
I had a look at Stone Age Man this week and unless you eliminate footholds out right, it definitely feels easier than f7A+ to come out the roof and then go up the hanging arete - that exit felt like f6C+ to me

I gave mantling onto the slab a go and it felt grotesque but I suspect cleaning the slab would reveal a few more semi-decent holds. The mantle the way I tried it felt hard (like f7A+/B) so I assume that is the actual crux of Stone Age Man.

This seems to match up with the NMC guidebook topo, but I don't know for certain.

spid3rz

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 41
  • Karma: +2/-0
#2 Re: Shaftoe - Stone Age Man
July 25, 2020, 10:24:28 am
I can confirm that you will find holds hidden in the slab...

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal