[Will Hunt]

The weight of a chalk bag is going to be such a tiny fraction of the total weight (you could probably make the weight saving by using a rope that was .1mm thinner) of the climber and clothes and harness that I can't see any benefit in ditching it. I don't know the Oak, but surely there's a slim chance that Shark could arrive near the chain, have slightly sweaty hands but no chalk bag, and then be presented with the perfect excuse to flop off and try again for another 10 years? I wouldn't chance it. It might not be in the plan to chalk, but imagine having to chalk near the top and not being able to because you'd left chalk on the ground for "weight-saving".

[SA Chris]

lose more weight having a strong coffee and going for a shit.

[Smith42]

Good work on the Oak.  Inspiring to read about other people plugging away at their personal goals.

M – Ran 5km
T – Sunderland lead wall, Aerobic capacity training (I think!) 6 reps of ten mins on 20mins off.
W – Valley, Aerobic capacity training 3 reps of ten mins on ten mins off. @ 200moves each rep then core work out.
Th – Ran 5km
F – Shaftoe, flipping hit traffic jam for second Friday in row heading to this crag which meant didn’t get to start climbing till 7 instead of 6! Consequently was rushed and everything got damp once sun went down so was rubbish session.  Had quick go on Power Is Nothing Without Control (PINWC) but quickly realised was wasting my time.  Went home in foul mood, horrendous work week and was hanging out for Friday evening bouldering for much needed de-stress.
Sat – Weather damp and not looking any better tomorrow so double wall session, did around 60 easy problems and some aerobic stuff in morning, then went back for 3 reps of ten mins on ten mins off in afternoon.
Sun – hour of yoga then finger boarding, max hangs with +25kg, two sets of four reps then Valley going round random problems close to on sight limit.

Good foundation week for Aerobic stuff but motivation a little low, rather of been outside on the weekend and knew best shot was Friday evening but spent 60minutes of my journey time just sat in a traffic jam.

[xelaxela]

After nearly a year back, following 4 years off with a left hand pulley injury (lots of conditioning) and trying to manage a 1 yr old.

Goals: Remain Uninjured , 62kg, back to bouldering 7C regularly in UK
Currently: OK, 77kg, 6C regularly (7A indoors)

M - 20mm Edge Max Hangs 10 seconds with 2 mins rest between sets body weight plus 35kg for 6 sets and
      weighted pull ups 5 pull ups body weight plus 35kg with 3 mins rest between sets for 5 sets
T - 45 minute indoor bouldering conditioning session before work, 5 routes without touching the ground as a warm up, 5 mins rest then 30 problems of varying difficulty max 30 seconds rest between each.
W - Indoor bouldering session with mates, full conditioning session same as Tuesday, chatting and whatever mates were trying at the time
T - 45 minute indoor bouldering conditioning session before work, 5 routes without touching the ground as a warm up, 5 mins rest then 30 problems of varying difficulty max 30 seconds rest between each.
F - 45 minute indoor bouldering conditioning session before work, 5 routes without touching the ground as a warm up, 5 mins rest then 30 problems of varying difficulty max 30 seconds rest between each.
S - Rest
S - Rest

[Coops_13]

No climbing at all this week. Spent packing, stressing and drinking before leaving the country today. In NY for a few days of work before I make my way to Denver. Doesn’t quite feel real yet...

Are you going to miss Denver's upcoming snow bomb event tomorrow?

I think we'll miss the hit but meet the after-effects...

[highrepute]

Effort getting the link, shark. Pretty pointless having that chalkbag swinging around weighing you down and causing drag. Might as well ditch it if you''re not going to use it.

Good spot. Didn’t realise I didn’t chalk up. Usually would before the top traverse but guess I didn’t because my tips were numb with cold. Maybe wouldn’t have slipped out of undercut if I’d chalked up. Did notice my chalk bag was heavy so should dig out or buy a lighter one

Arnaud Petit recommends ditching the chalk bag but absolutely cake the first bit of the rope in chalk so that when you clip you also get some chalk on your hands. (Just one of the many tricks from his discursive book "Escalade".)

Me thinks Arnaud is not a sweaty bugger then.

I've tried it myself on a sequence of 4 bolts were I couldn't stop to chalk up, but I cannot say that I noticed any difference... but hey, might be worth trying.

If we're taking about marginal chalk related gainZ. I have in the past put extra chalk on the bottom of my palm that I can run my fingers over to quickly chalk up. You can do this so quickly that it can be done mid move without any hesitation.