[abarro81]

Irrespective of whether she's anorexic or not, I still think it's good if she doesn't win, given that she looks anorexic. Nothing like watching anorexic looking people win to make kids want to be like that..

P.s. this thread reminds me a bit of how when people said Sasha looked too thin people came out saying na, she's fine, seen her smash in the burgers etc.. guess what, she wasn't..

[moose]

Irrespective of whether she's anorexic or not, I still think it's good if she doesn't win, given that she looks anorexic.

Dans ce pays-ci, il est bon de tuer de temps en temps un amiral pour encourager les autres"
In this country, it is wise to kill an admiral from time to time to encourage the others."

Voltaire, Candide

[monkoffunk]

Not to go way off topic here but..... I don’t think this is a simple issue either way and the phrase “body shaming” is thrown around so much these days that it seems you can’t have a conversation about morbidly obese models on the front cover of Cosmo or athletes who do appear to be particularly thin without being accused of it.

Look at the modelling industry where more and more countries have recently been setting lower limits on BMI. Criticism here has also revolves around the flaws of BMI, the naturally skinny and those with eating disorders and normal BMI. I guess there is never a simple answer, but there have been deaths from anorexia in professional models and it is undoubtedly true that social media etc etc is putting vast new pressures on children/teenagers today.

I don’t know where Natsuki Tanii falls on the spectrum between the naturally skinny teenager and an eating disorder, but perhaps in a strength to weight ratio sport like climbing what we need is more openness/information about what team doctors are doing to monitor the health (including weight) and nutrition of their athletes. If all you see is an end result, much like the ‘naturally skinny’ model then yes you very well might encourage eating disorders in children.

[battery]

I'm not sure if she's on here but Rebecca Dent is worth following on Facebook. She is a qualified dietitian who has worked with the GB bouldering team in the past and now works with high performance althetes in the alps. I've always found her to have a really sensible and evidence based approach to weight, food and health.

[Paul B]

I'm not sure if she's on here but Rebecca Dent is worth following on Facebook. She is a qualified dietitian who has worked with the GB bouldering team in the past and now works with high performance althetes in the alps. I've always found her to have a really sensible and evidence based approach to weight, food and health.

From what I've seen it's somewhat selective in that criticism is levied quite openly against Dave N=1 MacLeod whereas there's relative silence on over-caffeinated sugary drinks placement. I have to say that following a strict 2.5-week Madagascan food poisoning diet, it's the easiest training I've ever done, and I'm with Dave  (tongue firmly in cheek ).

[Fiend]

Just finished catching up on all the combined qualis and finals. PHEW. Jeez. We were watching them as a long evening chillout before bed, I ended up having to play Rage 2 most nights afterwards just to calm down. Plenty of thrills and spills not least:

Ai Mori - plucky little limpet, on almost everything. Such tenacity and a new favourite Chez Fiend.

Petra - beasting it in the bouldering qualis

Shauna - back on form again!

The sheer difficulty and technicality of the combined boulder and lead finals.

Ondra - blowing the lead qualis during his usual shockingly smooth "chalk up on moves other climbers couldn't do" performance, and then disqualified for the bolt, aaargh.

Sean - the z-clip of doom then a fantastic battle and tenacity overcoming that.

Tomoa - just a beast.

Alex - sproinging a finger and pulling out full stop.

Plus so many crazy moves and near misses.



A few things stood out overall:

Having seen the combined format with speed work in a more established way, it is even worse than I thought. Having great climbers sabotaged by their fastmonkeying results was obviously a terrible idea, but then seeing speed specialists in the qualis and even finals was just a farce - embarrassing watching them so out of their depth. I actually felt sorry for the speed guys and girls, they should be on a pedestal and podium in their own very separate discipline and lauded for that, not having that tainted by an obviously poor show in the other disciplines (obviously I didn't watch the actual speed events as I'd rather watch a dog having explosive diarrhoea on repeat for 30 mins instead).

The quality and balance of the problems and routes in the combined, compared to, say, the men's championship boulder finals, was, although sometimes slightly too difficult (F boulder 3 final), was consistently interesting and good - particularly a distinct lack of low percentage parkour trickiness and replacing it with sheer brutality mixed with trickiness. The longer problems in the final showcased some cool varied climbing, and the routes showcased some proper power endurance / stamina beastliness. Separation seemed good and natural based on those too.

Charlie and Mike's commentary seems to be improving all the time, and really they did a great job keeping it consistent and entertaining over a very long week and a bit. Fair play to them, they have got on the ball properly (I like it when technicals crop up and they immediately try to get info and keep us informed).


Overall a great watch, almost dizzying in the totality of it!

[SA Chris]

Looks like Max Milne finished Youth World Champ qualifiers in first place.

[Duma]

finals live now

[Duma]

hang on thats the youth B, think hes on in a bit

[bigironhorse]

Just finished catching up on all the combined qualis and finals. PHEW. Jeez. We were watching them as a long evening chillout before bed, I ended up having to play Rage 2 most nights afterwards just to calm down. Plenty of thrills and spills not least:

Ai Mori - plucky little limpet, on almost everything. Such tenacity and a new favourite Chez Fiend.

Petra - beasting it in the bouldering qualis

Shauna - back on form again!

The sheer difficulty and technicality of the combined boulder and lead finals.

Ondra - blowing the lead qualis during his usual shockingly smooth "chalk up on moves other climbers couldn't do" performance, and then disqualified for the bolt, aaargh.

Sean - the z-clip of doom then a fantastic battle and tenacity overcoming that.

Tomoa - just a beast.

Alex - sproinging a finger and pulling out full stop.

Plus so many crazy moves and near misses.



A few things stood out overall:

Having seen the combined format with speed work in a more established way, it is even worse than I thought. Having great climbers sabotaged by their fastmonkeying results was obviously a terrible idea, but then seeing speed specialists in the qualis and even finals was just a farce - embarrassing watching them so out of their depth. I actually felt sorry for the speed guys and girls, they should be on a pedestal and podium in their own very separate discipline and lauded for that, not having that tainted by an obviously poor show in the other disciplines (obviously I didn't watch the actual speed events as I'd rather watch a dog having explosive diarrhoea on repeat for 30 mins instead).

The quality and balance of the problems and routes in the combined, compared to, say, the men's championship boulder finals, was, although sometimes slightly too difficult (F boulder 3 final), was consistently interesting and good - particularly a distinct lack of low percentage parkour trickiness and replacing it with sheer brutality mixed with trickiness. The longer problems in the final showcased some cool varied climbing, and the routes showcased some proper power endurance / stamina beastliness. Separation seemed good and natural based on those too.

Charlie and Mike's commentary seems to be improving all the time, and really they did a great job keeping it consistent and entertaining over a very long week and a bit. Fair play to them, they have got on the ball properly (I like it when technicals crop up and they immediately try to get info and keep us informed).


Overall a great watch, almost dizzying in the totality of it!

I'm not as against speed as you, but would probably prefer it separate. I think there are better options than head to head if it has to be included though. For example, a time trial format where you get a couple of attempts and your fastest time counts.

I think a problem with the head to head system is that the competitors have radically different specialties. In the combined final megos qualified in first place and was put against a lower ranked climber. This would normally provide an advantage to the top qualifier who is placed against a weaker opponent. However in this case he was against a speed climber so was destined to finish in the bottom half before it even started!

 It seems like this will often be the case as the best allrounders will qualify in the top positions whereas speed climbers are more likely to qualify in the lower positions. I'm not sure how the "races" are determined though, as it seems a bit random.

[Steve R]

I'm not sure how the "races" are determined though, as it seems a bit random.

Would be interested to know the answer on this one too.  Seems entirely possible that medal positions will be won and lost on this and it appears to be a pure luck of the draw thing?   

[SA Chris]

Looks like Max Milne finished Youth World Champ qualifiers in first place.

Result Below in case anyone wants to actually watch it

NSFW  :

Max finished 4th, took too many tries, or else would have got third place? Seems to cruise through to finals and they nerves get to him in finals? Good effort either way.

[bigironhorse]

Anyone know if there is a stream/replay of the european bouldering champs?

[bigironhorse]

Or rock masters?

In need of some Sunday night viewing.

[sherlock]

Do you mean the Adidas RockStars? Think it's next week.
And we couldn't find the stream for the Euros either.

[bigironhorse]

Do you mean the Adidas RockStars? Think it's next week.
And we couldn't find the stream for the Euros either.

No. I think the arco rock masters comp was on at the same time as the youth world champs last week.

The rockstars comp should be a good one!

[Fiend]

Watching the VODs of the Junior finals is well recommended, some really good problems / routes / climbing in them.

[bigironhorse]

Watching the VODs of the Junior finals is well recommended, some really good problems / routes / climbing in them.

Unfortunately I have already watched all 3000+ hours of world champs footage from the last few weeks.

Agreed that the quality was high, particularly the junior finals.

[Fiend]

Unfortunately I have already watched all 3000+ hours of world champs footage from the last few weeks.

LOL!! It has been quite something hasn't it? I don't if I've got IFSC withdrawal symptoms or IFSC stream hangover, or both.

[GraemeA]

Unfortunately I have already watched all 3000+ hours of world champs footage from the last few weeks.

LOL!! It has been quite something hasn't it? I don't if I've got IFSC withdrawal symptoms or IFSC stream hangover, or both.

Well the Rockstars is on today, semi finals just finished,
Finals on later today, I think at 1935 for the start of the climbing

[Fiend]

Cheers for the reminder G! I was sure something was on this weekend....

[Fiend]

Let's talk Kranj!



Some hardcore routes for sure (semis too). Properly tricky mix of power and stamina. W's not quite well balanced enough, but men's, great apart from the low sloper of doom. Camera work and dancing fox a bit annoying. Boscoe on current good form with his usual "once per stream legit hilarious gem" too.

[Fiend]

Dafuck. Control-C is not working on my PC. Let's try this instead:

[Muenchener]

Yeah, let's. I was expecting a little more general shock & astonishment at "Janja not in top four Slovenian women"

[Fiend]

I know. What a shocker. IIRC it looked like she just didn't properly go for the move she came off?? On the one hand it was quite nice without the forgone conclusion of her winning the finals, on the other hand the final route was so hard it would have been nice to see her give it a proper shot. As it was we were rooting for Ai of course, but a pity she came off so early as I'd have liked to have seen her hang around trying to work out the crux for 2 minutes (like her cut loose epic session in the semis).

Partly similarly with the mens', a real pity Jakob came off so low. Maybe the route setters didn't anticipate how much gank that sloper would gain over time?? A tiny screw on nipple would have alleviated that. Still, the winning performance was as excellent as one could have hoped.