It is mildly amusing, but got to feel for the guy if he doesn't get there. Also, I'm not acquainted with lead comp scoring; if you stand on a bolt, is that complete disqualification, and nil points? Or do you still get a score for the climbing up to where you stand on the bolt?
Quote from: robertostallioni on August 12, 2019, 02:39:17 pmThere are 3 comps providing a direct qualification route to Tokyo, not including a"wild card" slot and some countries will have more than 2 athletes qualifying. The national governing bodies will then select their favourite 2 of each gender even though more athletes might have "qualified".probably realistically only an issue for the Slovs/Japs.more accurate description would prob be"will qualify for consideration by their national governing body for selection as one of the top 2 athletes by gender for selection to the Tokyo 2020 Summer Olympic Games."What are the other two comps?
There are 3 comps providing a direct qualification route to Tokyo, not including a"wild card" slot and some countries will have more than 2 athletes qualifying. The national governing bodies will then select their favourite 2 of each gender even though more athletes might have "qualified".probably realistically only an issue for the Slovs/Japs.more accurate description would prob be"will qualify for consideration by their national governing body for selection as one of the top 2 athletes by gender for selection to the Tokyo 2020 Summer Olympic Games."
Bolt was very low so doubt it would make a difference?
Quote from: Duma on August 19, 2019, 03:53:00 pmBolt was very low so doubt it would make a difference?Ah OK, didn't know. Didn't he cock up badly once in a comp before, stepping back off first move or something?
Think it was cham a couple of years ago where he went to clip 2 bolts at the same time. The lower one didn't seat properly and popped out after he'd clipped the top one meaning he'd 'skipped' a bolt which meant he was called off the route.
Great combined event this morning - felt for Shauna ending up in 3rd after it started so well but great to see Janja pull it back after a shaky start! First time I've ever watched a full speed event (whilst walking to work)...
Good that a speed climber can make the final but not looking likely that they could win. Speed climbing is a great watch when its between equally matched climbers and an easy place to f**k up if your going for it.
I though the whole finals was brilliant and the format works. IFSC must be pretty happy.Good that a speed climber can make the final but not looking likely that they could win. Speed climbing is a great watch when its between equally matched climbers and an easy place to f**k up if your going for it. Good effort Shauna and good to see that it wont be a walk in the park for janja although i cant help but think she would normally do better in the speed. The mens should be equally competitive. Fingers crossed.The only issue is that of the bolts. Climbing shouldn't be about avoiding things and i would have thought it could easily be corrected. Didnt effect the result for Shauna, but could have, and royally messed things up for Ondra although he seemed off par in the whole event (and the last) to be fair so maybe the correct result. Some kind of cover cap on the bolt head that stops it being pushed off would sort the issue then your allowed to touch it with your foot.I think Ondra is trying to hard. Still looks like the best climber a lot of the time but not getting the finals right. He looked steady eddy before he slipped of in the the lead final.
Should quit his Road to Tokyo YouTube videos. Talk about adding more pressure and you look like a tit if the Road to Tokyo is a Dead End.
The only issue is that of the bolts. Climbing shouldn't be about avoiding things and i would have thought it could easily be corrected. Didnt effect the result for Shauna, but could have, and royally messed things up for Ondra although he seemed off par in the whole event (and the last) to be fair so maybe the correct result. Some kind of cover cap on the bolt head that stops it being pushed off would sort the issue then your allowed to touch it with your foot.
It will be a great showcase for the sport. A bunch of strong climbers looking like the don’t know the sequence on the speed, and then someone who can’t pull off the floor on the boulders literally laughing to themselves about what they are being expected to do.
I would feel sorry for them, being so obviously complete minnows but having to put in an appearance for the last two rounds - but they're speed climbers, so I don't.
Sorry, this is all new to me. How have speed climbers managed to progress to the final? In the women's and the men's it was tragic (and pretty boring) to have to watch the token speed bloke/bird paw uselessly at the holds throughout the bouldering. The male speed punter managed to redeem himself a bit in the lead, but had he stopped to clip at the point that the others did he would have been off before them.I would feel sorry for them, being so obviously complete minnows but having to put in an appearance for the last two rounds - but they're speed climbers, so I don't.
Quote from: Will Hunt on August 21, 2019, 02:04:09 pmSorry, this is all new to me. How have speed climbers managed to progress to the final? In the women's and the men's it was tragic (and pretty boring) to have to watch the token speed bloke/bird paw uselessly at the holds throughout the bouldering. The male speed punter managed to redeem himself a bit in the lead, but had he stopped to clip at the point that the others did he would have been off before them.I would feel sorry for them, being so obviously complete minnows but having to put in an appearance for the last two rounds - but they're speed climbers, so I don't.I disagree with you here in the case of the mens side of things. In qualification the top speed climber managed to top a boulder that some of the boulderers and lead climbers couldn't do. I thought it was interesting to see how well the speed climbers did in this.
