The young ground up would be very impressive. You can jump from the crux but the top bit at 9-10 m is still pretty tricky.
Quote from: gme on September 27, 2018, 11:13:34 amThe young ground up would be very impressive. You can jump from the crux but the top bit at 9-10 m is still pretty tricky.Franco did The Young ground-up today (well, yesterday since I'm posting after midnight).
Right, so he missed out the bottom of the route which he likens to West Side Story... and opted for the VS crack instead?
Quote from: mr chaz on March 25, 2019, 02:24:09 pmRight, so he missed out the bottom of the route which he likens to West Side Story... and opted for the VS crack instead? I think he used it to do the top without being boxed from the hard start,did most of the moves but then fell off. Armed with some for-knowledge of the moves and having confidence that you can fall from high and walk away he climbed the full line. Very impressive and an improvement in style though maybe not quite the same as doing the line ground up starting up the actual route everytime. True ground up still up for grabs for me.
Quote from: mr chaz on March 25, 2019, 02:24:09 pmRight, so he missed out the bottom of the route which he likens to West Side Story... and opted for the VS crack instead? I think he used it to do the top without being boxed from the hard start,did most of the moves but then fell off. Armed with some for-knowledge of the moves and having confidence that you can fall from high and walk away he climbed the full line.
Quote from: mr chaz on March 25, 2019, 02:24:09 pmRight, so he missed out the bottom of the route which he likens to West Side Story... and opted for the VS crack instead? if one were to traverse into the jug on WSS and then top it out do they get the full tick?? Asking for a friend.
This is great. 2 cap doffs in the 36 hours after I first posted. Within 1.5 hours of the first sighting of controversy there are 12 posts!
Christ! I thought I had out-manoeuvred the UKB sloops with my pre-emptive admissions.To make it clear: I have done the bottom boulder problem many times (20?), the middle boulder problem about 15, and the top one once. They're all quite hard for me, but easyish if you know how to do them, or you're good at bouldering. Will's 7b,7b,7b isn't miles off. The middle one is probably the hardest (and by far the coolest), the bottom one could be anywhere from font 7a- 7b+, the top one could be low font 7s, but is hard to figure out and scary - potentially on a rope it wouldn't be that bad. Physically, obviously, doing the initial boulder problem adds something. You get that skin-roughing, the odd cold finger and the mental aspect of feeling like you've already done some hard climbing, but I have no doubt that anyone who could do the individual bits could do the whole thing. I wasn't pumped at the top even when I'd done the first two boulder problems, just scared. It was basically a toss up between probably having more sessions on it and damaging it more, or just getting it done. As good as the start is, it gets really boring just climbing it over and over again. I think all the people at the crag agreed that the place is great, the wall one of the best in the country, the moves the best in the county, but the line slightly wack. I struggle to think of a comparison, but it's remarkable how similar in grade all three sections are and how easy it is to slink off at each point. If it wasn't escapble, it would be truly one of the best anywhere. I didn't want to kind of come out and criticise the route, because it is really beautiful, amazing and worth doing, but I think people repeating it in the future will see what I mean - it feels quite artificial. I think a boulderer's mindset gives a different view of things like this to a Trad climbers and allows for things to be slightly more squeezed, but for me I've unpicked all of the sequences of The Young and am dead happy with it. I've put time into being as accurate and honest about what I did as possible, so really am not looking for controversy. Like I said in my blog, I can see why you might say it's not the full tick etc, but let's keep it nice!
I've put time into being as accurate and honest about what I did as possible, so really am not looking for controversy