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Hardest trad route in the world? (Read 1922 times)

remus

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Hardest trad route in the world?
March 25, 2019, 06:58:23 am
Jacopo Larcher has finished off his project in Caderese. Looks like an ace line, and of course he's a pretty strong chap with plenty of hard trad repeats under his belt.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BvZjURwgm4T/

jwi

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#1 Re: Hardest trad route in the world?
March 25, 2019, 07:10:45 am
He claims it is harder than any sport route he's done, and since he has done La Ramla which seems to be 9a+ this should be at least 9a?

Danny

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#2 Re: Hardest trad route in the world?
March 25, 2019, 08:29:56 am
What a load of falsely-modest horse shit. Give it a grade, rather than implying a grade by comparing it to other really hard graded things you've done. Amazing line and amazing effort, though.

Kermit

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#3 Re: Hardest trad route in the world?
March 25, 2019, 08:57:59 am
Agreed really. If everyone knows you've climbed 9a+ and you openly say you think this is harder give it a grade.

Even if it's a guess saying trad and sport never quite line up or something.

Does look an amazing route tho.

Oldmanmatt

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#4 Re: Hardest trad route in the world?
March 25, 2019, 11:14:48 am
What a load of falsely-modest horse shit. Give it a grade, rather than implying a grade by comparing it to other really hard graded things you've done. Amazing line and amazing effort, though.

Are you mad?

Do you know what happens to people who give things grades, without thirty supporting witness statements from equally able peers, who have examined each move and hold, 250 hrs of detailed unedited video footage in ultra HD of every single moment of effort and preparation, and of course detailed reporting of air temp, humidity, body weight  and choice of breakfast cereal...


Thatís a joke, by the way. He deserves to hang a grade on it.
But I can understand why heís reluctant to stick hisneck out:

jwi

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#5 Re: Hardest trad route in the world?
March 25, 2019, 11:53:26 am
Saying that something is the hardest thing you've done but then refuse to give it a grade usually means it is one grade below the hardest thing you've done? No?

Cf. Es Pontas, Recovery Drink, etc...

monkoffunk

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#6 Re: Hardest trad route in the world?
March 25, 2019, 12:19:14 pm
Why do we need a grade? I think he has given enough information to reasonably ball park it; he isnít under any obligation to do more than that unless he wants to. It might be nice, but I feel pretty neutral about it really. Iím sure others will be keen to try now anyway.

monkoffunk

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#7 Re: Hardest trad route in the world?
March 25, 2019, 12:22:18 pm
From the Valhalla thread:

Quote from: Grimper Magazine
Let's be clear, it is almost certain that these numbers have been inflated to increase the media effect of the ascent. If this is not the case, Edu Marin has unquestionably authored one of the greatest achievements in the history of climbing; only future repetitions of the route will allow us to know...

Damned if you do, damned if you donít.

Will Hunt

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#8 Re: Hardest trad route in the world?
March 25, 2019, 12:50:11 pm
What a load of falsely-modest horse shit. Give it a grade, rather than implying a grade by comparing it to other really hard graded things you've done. Amazing line and amazing effort, though.

Are you mad?

Do you know what happens to people who give things grades, without thirty supporting witness statements from equally able peers, who have examined each move and hold, 250 hrs of detailed unedited video footage in ultra HD of every single moment of effort and preparation, and of course detailed reporting of air temp, humidity, body weight  and choice of breakfast cereal...


Thatís a joke, by the way. He deserves to hang a grade on it.
But I can understand why heís reluctant to stick hisneck out:

 :agree: to a large extent. People are terrified to stick their neck out these days. It's hard to grade new stuff.
I know I bang on about this to illustrate the point but the crux of that project wall at Earl Seat that I tried quite a bit was, and still is, the hardest move I think I've ever done. Had I completed the climb I would have given it 7C based on it being demonstrably harder than similar 7B+s. Might have even thought "fuck it" and given it 7C+. Varian called it 7B+ so I would have looked like a right attention seeking punter  :shrug:

I once tried a shit "new" thing at Adel Crag with a sequence that might have been 7A+ or 7B or something. Certainly "harder than anything I'd done" at the time. Ben came along with an open mind and used the obvious beta. It went at 6B! People looking at new stuff inevitably and understandably get sucked into climbing something in the way that they want it to climb as opposed to how it ought to be climbed.

Doylo

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#9 Re: Hardest trad route in the world?
March 25, 2019, 01:02:20 pm
Trad 9a = E13?

Danny

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#10 Re: Hardest trad route in the world?
March 25, 2019, 01:04:27 pm
IDK, this just seems like quite an important high water mark for trad that deserves an offered grade. Of course he's not obliged to give a grade, and this is hardly a hill to die on. But since he's heavily implied one anyway, the hand waving just seems like cake-and-eat-it tactics. Plus, who doesn't love grades? E12, shirley.

duncan

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DAVETHOMAS90

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#12 Re: Hardest trad route in the world?
March 25, 2019, 02:54:19 pm
"Iím thinking since two days what I should write about this journey. After so much effort, I was sure to have too many words to describe it, but the reality is that I canít find any.
Iím simply happy, very happy."

Would be nice if that was enough. Let him enjoy it for a while!

Danny

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#13 Re: Hardest trad route in the world?
March 25, 2019, 04:36:12 pm
But Dave, I see at least 3 pads were used on the FA  ;D

petekitso

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#14 Re: Hardest trad route in the world?
March 25, 2019, 04:55:31 pm
I think itís two pads and a rock. Naturally, I wouldnít even be reading the thread otherwise . . .

Danny

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#15 Re: Hardest trad route in the world?
March 25, 2019, 05:01:43 pm
I think itís two pads and a rock. Naturally, I wouldnít even be reading the thread otherwise . . .

Oh, my bad. He had three pads in earlier attempts by the looks of it. He must've read that UKB thread and thought he'd better up his game for the eventual FA.

petekitso

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#16 Re: Hardest trad route in the world?
March 25, 2019, 05:05:45 pm
Either that or he did it with three pads a while back but didnít want to publicise a void ascent . . .

Andy F

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#17 Re: Hardest trad route in the world?
March 25, 2019, 05:50:39 pm
Trad 9a = E13?
North York Moors H15?

Dan Cheetham

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#18 Re: Hardest trad route in the world?
March 25, 2019, 06:29:56 pm
What a load of falsely-modest horse shit. Give it a grade, rather than implying a grade by comparing it to other really hard graded things you've done. Amazing line and amazing effort, though.

Jeeeeez Danny why all the negativity and only half a shit sandwich 😂. You didnít get the memo that climbing had become a hive mind of middle management types talking in riddles? Get with the community and on board with the process for fucks sake

Danny

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#19 Re: Hardest trad route in the world?
March 25, 2019, 07:09:00 pm
What a load of falsely-modest horse shit. Give it a grade, rather than implying a grade by comparing it to other really hard graded things you've done. Amazing line and amazing effort, though.

Jeeeeez Danny why all the negativity and only half a shit sandwich 😂. You didnít get the memo that climbing had become a hive mind of middle management types talking in riddles? Get with the community and on board with the process for fucks sake

My inner curmudgeon is released. It's all about the rock (brah). And also the Insta story, of course.

Dan Cheetham

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#20 Re: Hardest trad route in the world?
March 25, 2019, 09:39:41 pm
Trad 9a = E13?
North York Moors H15?

Highball 7C with 20 pads on a cradle of pallets and moss, traversing off at the mid height break.

petejh

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#21 Re: Hardest trad route in the world?
March 26, 2019, 03:38:48 pm
Quote from: first ascentionist
"Iím thinking since two days what I should write about this journey. After so much effort, I was sure to have too many words to describe it, but the reality is that I canít find any.
Iím simply happy, very happy."

[curmudgeonly rose-tinted specs] A whole 2 days reflection on an ascent of a possible hardest route in its  style. Wow, contemplation on an almost zen monk level  :-\

I think Iím correct in saying there was a time when a climber may go weeks, even months, reflecting before penning a thought-through little article for a mag.. instead of feeling insta-pressure to say something.[/curmudgeonly rose-tinted specs]


Doylo

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#22 Re: Hardest trad route in the world?
March 26, 2019, 04:00:28 pm
Such a bunch of grumpy cunts on this site  :lol: (Iím one of them).