Quote from: jwi on March 11, 2019, 02:32:26 pmFor me and people with similar strength profiles 7s:3s repeaters at a load of 55% of MVC (about 60% of my 5s max-hang) is largely an aerobic exercise. I can do 7s:3s for more than five and a half minute at that load, and from an aborted experiment on my better half, I would suspect that she could do 7s:3s hangs @50% of MVC until she gets too hungry or too sleepy.This tells me that repeaters at 50% of MVC are mostly an aerobic exercise for me, and for my better half an almost entirely aerobic exercise. This is not too surprising as for 5*3=15s out of 57 seconds the energy contribution is 100% aerobic (mostly used to resynthesise phosphocreatine). For someone with a high proportion slow twitch fibres or strong aerobic metabolism most of the energy during the actual hangs will be either from stored creatine or aerobically created.Isn't the % MVC the important variable here? Repeaters used in, say, the Andersons brothers protocol, would be at a load of 70-80% or more, I think.
For me and people with similar strength profiles 7s:3s repeaters at a load of 55% of MVC (about 60% of my 5s max-hang) is largely an aerobic exercise. I can do 7s:3s for more than five and a half minute at that load, and from an aborted experiment on my better half, I would suspect that she could do 7s:3s hangs @50% of MVC until she gets too hungry or too sleepy.This tells me that repeaters at 50% of MVC are mostly an aerobic exercise for me, and for my better half an almost entirely aerobic exercise. This is not too surprising as for 5*3=15s out of 57 seconds the energy contribution is 100% aerobic (mostly used to resynthesise phosphocreatine). For someone with a high proportion slow twitch fibres or strong aerobic metabolism most of the energy during the actual hangs will be either from stored creatine or aerobically created.
How would you test MVC jwi? For me I relate everything to Max 7s load - and I do repeaters for PE at 80%
The crimpd app has a session at 40% Max 7s load, and refers to it as aerobic capacity, but I very much doubt that is what most UK climbers think of as "repeaters"
However, if I may speculate further, I think the answer lies somewhere else.For me and people with similar strength profiles 7s:3s repeaters at a load of 55% of MVC (about 60% of my 5s max-hang) is largely an aerobic exercise. I can do 7s:3s for more than five and a half minute at that load, and from an aborted experiment on my better half, I would suspect that she could do 7s:3s hangs @50% of MVC until she gets too hungry or too sleepy.This tells me that repeaters at 50% of MVC are mostly an aerobic exercise for me, and for my better half an almost entirely aerobic exercise. This is not too surprising as for 5*3=15s out of 57 seconds the energy contribution is 100% aerobic (mostly used to resynthesise phosphocreatine). For someone with a high proportion slow twitch fibres or strong aerobic metabolism most of the energy during the actual hangs will be either from stored creatine or aerobically created.(Looking in a table in a random sport physiology textbook for time to exhaustion agains anaerobic/aerobic contribution shows that if doing a bout of 6 7s:3s hangs – that is 57s to failure should be about half/half aerobic/anaerobic even assuming really bad recovery during the micro rests)The training adaptions to improve on repeaters should thus be largely aerobic in nature.