With global warming and whatnot, I've heard that the North Face is dry atm. Crazy and scary [that it is dry], but when dry it has some of the best 7s in the gorge. Les Clowns (7c) is onsight friendly and one of the best of its grade I've done. Les sumos sont parmi nous is also great, even if the bolting isn't. Black Mamba (8a) is also quite fun and much easier than you'd think. The three side by side routes through the roof to the right: Les Rifougneurs (7c), Roland Culet (7b+) and Madam Cowboy (7b+) are all highly recommended.
The routes on the left side? Those are not good. Those I've mentioned are good and on good rock.
Quote from: jwi on March 06, 2019, 02:31:51 pmThe routes on the left side? Those are not good. Those I've mentioned are good and on good rock.I did an 8a on the left side called Quand le Blues l'Emporte sur la Raison that starts in that poor-looking flinty rock. Doesn't look much but it climbs really well on nice holds.
On a side note, JWI, when did you do Black Mamba? I tried it in June 2016...
Any idea if black mamba is still 8a? I did feel quite guilty, but was also quite hungover so didn't care too much.
The main routes on the north face are superb. Around the ones that JWI mentioned. The 7c+ (Les SUmos I think) in particular is exceptional. unless you think 30 metre tufa fests are shit. In which case don't go. On a side note, JWI, when did you do Black Mamba? I tried it in June 2016, thought I had it in the bag, and pulled a big sloper off the top bulge. That's right, pulled off a sloper. I was too nackered to try and figure out a new method, but it seemed like it may have got harder. If still doable, highly recomend it.Moby Dick is very soft at 7c. And good.Le Mythomane and the 7b's to the right are very good, and all quite tough I thought.What a great venue. I'm envious.
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