[measles23]

so took the 3 year old to minus 10 in the rain

Always plumbing the depths of child neglect in the interests of a quick tick - nice..

[Will Hunt]

So that's why his Royal Lankness wasn't at the normal Leeds Depot on Sunday....

Regarding 1:40 as a "mammoth drive" rather than a bare minimum is a nice reminder why I moved South of the Wall....

Where are you now? Should we expect to see the sexmagik dwarf at the Depot any time soon?

[Duma]

Lush day despite the lack of tick, happy to have a solid sequence now.

Sounds great. You'd need the tick to have qualified for the full Gert Lush?

Ha! I've been in Bristol a while!
Good to be reminded of dancing ledge, spent a lot of fun days there while at uni, think I was once within 2 routes if ticking the quarry..

[Smith42]

M - Gym Bike 5k/run 5k/bike 15k. (10/27/30)

T - Planned on Shafto after work but my meeting overran and didn’t get to the crag till 17:30.  Managed Viagra Plus SS more by will power than skill then walked out getting back to the car with just enough daylight.  Maybe bit soon in the year for after work sessions.  Got home and did Max Hangs 27/28/30/30/30kg which is up 2.5kg.  Fingers feeling very strong at the moment.

W - Sun Wall, Warmed up on 6a+ then had two working attempts at White 7a+.  Then further two goes up Red 6c+ which had done previously.  Forearms had nothing in them today but been training hard for two week and maxed out last night.

Th - Gym, Bike/Run/Bike 9/27/19.

F - Climb New. Pool, warmed up on purples then tried @ ten problems at on sight limit, flashed 7, did 2 more and completely shut down on the other.  Then tried some Max Hangs but underperformed, struggled at 25KG, don’t know if was tired or just normally do Max Hangs earlier in session.  Not too perturbed by dip in weight as had already scheduled a rest week for next week.

Sat - Went downhill biking with GF for first time.  Was a bit concerned that she had full body armour and I had elbow pads strapped on with tape but it was a right laugh and the bike I had borrowed was so good and forgiving of my lack of ability.  Flipping great fun but high chance of injury!

Sun - Hepburn.  Mint conditions, warmed and flashed some stuff and sent some stuff but got shut down on Rheumatology 7A.  Not sure why, landings not great but couldn’t work out what was going wrong. 
Got lost and in argument with GF over which way to walk to find the Berthele’s Stone (I let her decide even though I thought it was the wrong way and she then got fed up and walked off with one pad).  Found the Berthele’s Stone (exactly where I thought it was) and then realised I couldn’t try Daze Of The Weak with one pad.  Doh.  Consolation flash of Commando 7A which is a very appropriate name.

Overall another good week. 
Found my way round Hepburn now so have to go back for the classics and Rheumatology! 
Need to start working endurance into the plan as just booking Kalymnos for May. 
Also think I’ve found my rest day activity if I can minimise the risk of injury!

[Smith42]

In other news, the Troller's Gill material for the guidebook is ready to go to the pagesetter. This is the first of the limestone crags to reach this stage so feels like a big step, even if it should have happened ages ago. Will be trying to get another crag to a similar state before the week is out

Whats happening at Trollers?  New guide??

[Duma]

Good work on Ben's and oak shark, but only three more sessions this season? It's barely March!

Forgive me if this makes no sense (I don't have a good map of the route in my head) but do you ever try to do longer links to the top?

[nai]

As a shorter gent and my sequence on alpha was: right hand in the funny slotty undercut, lh pinch, right foot on obvious good bit, paste left foot high-ish and go for the lh crimp, left foot across, right heel on then right hand over the top to the sloper. I thought the move to the crimp was by far the hardest, once I stuck that it was in the bag for me. Don't think I'd have the reach to bump left hand again to the sloper off the pinch.

Thanks for all the input, folks.

This is from a stand yeah?  Been back today and trying to sit must bump it up again, and isn't actually very good.

Did similar, same hands, LF on a nubbin, RF in a scoopy thing pushing left (R of the obvious good bit). Static reach for the crimp. Right heel on an edge on the back wall, slap into the big sidepull. Move LF left of the flake, R Heel in flake, RH over for the shelf.  Oddly, the reach for the crimp is the easiest move.

[Duma]

First go was as hard as expected (very hard) with about 10 hangs on the rope, second got it down to 5 hangs, third 3 hangs then fourth and fifth hung just 2 times- on the fifth I had that “I could be better at this if I was fresh” feeling! 

Interestingly the contact between the rock and my hands and feet wasn’t that much of a problem. At first I felt like my hip flexibility and ability to pull my core in were stopping me but these became less of an issue when warmed up. It seemed to be mainly a case of remembering how I used to do the moves and coming up with new ways to do some of them to suit my new physical setup!

Mad week. Absolute quantum leap in my post-accident climbing to climb at Malham on Friday- still can’t believe how well I did. 

Signed up to go back to Malham tomorrow with the aim of giving it at least one lead attempt- can’t think of much else currently.

This sounds amazing cheque, nice one! Always inspired by your PC posts, the effort and perspective combined is great.

[Will Hunt]

In other news, the Troller's Gill material for the guidebook is ready to go to the pagesetter. This is the first of the limestone crags to reach this stage so feels like a big step, even if it should have happened ages ago. Will be trying to get another crag to a similar state before the week is out

Whats happening at Trollers?  New guide??

Working on a new select guide which will include Yorkshire limestone. To be published by Wired.
I've credited you with the FA of Moddey Dhoo based on the thread I started a while ago. If you've got a specific year or date of the FA I can slot it in.

[SA Chris]

Got lost and in argument with GF over which way to walk to find the Berthele’s Stone (I let her decide even though I thought it was the wrong way and she then got fed up and walked off with one pad).  Found the Berthele’s Stone (exactly where I thought it was) and then realised I couldn’t try Daze Of The Weak with one pad.

This sounds so familiar.

[gme]

Mon- Moonboard session doing benchmarks up to 6C+. Still have a few to tick off on my mission to do all the benchmark 6s before Spain. I doubt this will happen as a couple feel hard. Grades all over as usual, flashed 2 and failed to do all the moves on one of them.

Tues-Thurs 3 days eating, drinking and being cultural in edinburgh with my better half, lots of fun and chilled. Very nice food both nights in Kitchin and David Bann, i would recommend both of them.

Fri-  stretching am. Max hangs on micros. managed 3 x 7 secs on the 8mm at BW (82kg)then 3 on 10mm plus 5kg. Changed hold due to pain. Easy weights session with the youngest which was fun.

Sat - Stretching am. Valley 55 board session for 1 hr. Pretty strong and managed to re do my hardest problem. Then 6 in 6 session from the crimpd app. Did this on 6 12 move problems. This is a killer and really good high end ancap. For those without the app it is 6 problems done on the minute per set, three sets with 5 mins between sets. I was utterly wasted by the end and fell on the last three problems, in fact i could hardly pull on to the last.
Finished off with a rings session from the app. Hard day.

Sun - rest.

Bit of a mixed week due to wifey time but ended well. I had that throbbing forearm feeling that i have not felt in a long time all night on sat and everything hurt on Sunday. I know pushing your self to failure isn't the done thing these days but its fun. 2 weeks to spain so need more of it.

[jamesturnbull97]

Just plenty more board climbing around work last week.
Mon - Home Board. Good session repeating loads of previous problems, then managed to do one of my projects out of the blue having only done one of the moves on it it then just went with minimal fuss. God knows how hard it is went from feeling like the hardest thing on the board to not feeling that hard.
Tues - Depot Board. Unsuprisingly felt tired for Mondays session, managed to repeat my usual circuit and did both versions of PalmerSutra but nothing new.
Thurs - First day off after 14 days at work and typically was the first one that was a bit grim. Ended up going on a big walk in the moors from Great Ayton. Depot in the evening, expected to feel tired but actually felt surprisingly good. Again did both versions of PalmerSutra which I feel like I can do most goes now which feels like good progression as I couldn't even do the moves on it a couple of weeks ago. Managed to flash PalmerHam which was a surprise and then did it in a couple of goes on the other side. Again dropped the top move on The Austrian Joke.
Sun - Finished work earlier than expected so went back to the board. Again usual circuit inc PalmerSutra and PalmerHam, managed to finish Austrian Joke. Also did a problem Will Buck showed me a few weeks back which had been feeling pretty tough.

Really starting to feel like I'm getting back into shape after my injury, still not quite back to where I'd like to be but good to be feeling strong again. Another mini success was being able to get my proper tight shoes on my left foot again with pain for the first time!

[user deactivated]

Self worth club - hehe.

What about ‘searching for the pot of gold at the end of the proverbial rainbow club’

[shark]

Good work on Ben's and oak shark, but only three more sessions this season? It's barely March!

Forgive me if this makes no sense (I don't have a good map of the route in my head) but do you ever try to do longer links to the top?

Looking back at the time I got close I got through the throw move in about 5 sessions. Last Autumn I didnt get throught it once    To have a good chance of doing it I should be getting through the move 2 or 3 times in a session. I therefore figure that if I'm not getting through the move at least once in the first five sessions then I'm too far off gettng to the point of getting through it 2 or 3 times in a session and it would be better physically and mentally to back off and continue training whilst building a pyramid of routes and boulder problems over the Spring and Summer to set me up well for going back on it in the Autumn. 

Re longer links I have done it from the second bolt to the top on 2 or 3 occasions which is 4 hand moves and 6 foot moves from the ground. My more regular link is "throw to the top" which is 6 hand moves and 11 foot moves from the start. 

[petejh]

I thought Ondra's maxim was '10 sessions maximum and then move on if you haven't done it'. But I guess he's never sieged anything for this long.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - decided to give fingers some rest. Power clean up to 90% (72 kg) x1x2, very happy. Failed 95%. Then a monster EMOM set at 60% (50 kg) 5x12. Brutal. 
Tue - rest.
Wed - power clean x5, ab wheel x10, pull ups x5 EMOM x45 (3x15).
Thu - boxing bag.
Fri - rest.
Sat - rest.
Sun - clean and press x5, ab wheel x10, pull ups x5 all x10. Harder than the EMOM.

[andy_e]

Austrian Joke

I've been away from the board for too long. What version is this?

[Yossarian]

M - Wall. 5th day on, tired and skin a bit thin. Did some good steeper problems before syke ran out, and then watched daughter and the kids squad.
T - 12km trail run and yoga / stretching - inc palms flat on floor for the first time.
W - Wall. Decent session. Felt good on their 45 board. Made progress on new problem and a couple of others. Bit of time on the circuit board - 3 goes on crimpy 7a, failing near the end and getting v pumped. Minute burns doing foot-on-campus, again pumped stupid. 3x 5mins aerocap - skin a bit trashed by the end.
T - 12km trail run. Started BM session but skin sore.
F - Wall. Lingering fatigue from W. Started on 45 board but no coordination. Circuit board - did 7a first go. 4 more laps, failing on the last 2. Bit of foot-on-campus.
S - Meant to go and do routes at White Spider, but admin issues meant that plan got delayed then cancelled. Did BM repeaters plus some max hangs.
S - Wall. Mainly harder steep problems. Was aiming for some longer AeroCap but my favoured bit of wall had been reset for YCS round the previous day and so gave up on that idea.

Weight - around 88kg, so previous weeks 86 was an anomaly.

Shoulder still hasn’t recovered completely, so trying to avoid stressing it too much. Finished 3rd book - YYFY - and would usually be heading out on some Dorset day trips at this point, but have 2 more overdue books to get on and finish asap, so the next few weeks are going to largely be spent inside. Got Cheddar guide (thanks Guy) and have been enjoying lining up southern sport routes for next round of excursions. Quite syked by endurance training, though combining that and continuing to make strength progress is going to take some planning.

[Bradders]

Austrian Joke

I've been away from the board for too long. What version is this?

Avoids the crux move by going to a wood sidepull, then undercut and top as normal (although I think James uses the right hand offset credit card, as opposed to the top pink crimp, which is surely easier?).

[jamesturnbull97]

Austrian Joke

I've been away from the board for too long. What version is this?

Just a harder finish to Mock, think it is a Tom Frost creation.
Same as Mock to the RH cheese. Then LH chewing gum packet, RH same undercut as mock, LH offset credit card, top. I'll stick some photos on the Facebook group of my current crop of powerclub problems.

[James Malloch]

Bit the bullet and left early to go to Kentmere where I've never been before. On the face of it it seems like a mammoth drive but it's only an hour and 40 mins.

If you can ever make a non-Tuesday evening and fancy some Big Depot sessions let me know!

Bit the bullet and left early to go to Kentmere where I've never been before. On the face of it it seems like a mammoth drive but it's only an hour and 40 mins.

I'm keen to get back up to Kentmere / Lakes in general so drop me a line if you plan to head up. Got quite a few free weekends coming up (except this week) and would quite fancy getting out. Can pick up en-route 

[dunnyg]

I heard Will's house is "on the way" to everywhere.

[Bradders]

M - Depot. Really feeling big day out at Dow Crag the day before. Flashed a couple of purples then max hangs mainly 5x 10s one arm on middle BM2k low slot w/ 10kg assistance. Did 6x 4r maximal TRX Is and Ts between sets.

T - lunch gym just doing yoga. Core DOMS from TRX

W - DOMS still going on

T - Depot Board, trying same 5 problems as before. Best session so far although still couldn't flipping do the middle move on Palmer Sutra through 4/5 tries. Did Palmer Ham first go and then second go on Steady Intro got a new high point setting up for the penultimate move (from which I ejected spectacularly!). First and only go up Zoo nearly held the last hard move to the wood triangle, then Austrian Mock first go. Lastly had one go at an old problem which I've never been able to do (Woodcock's Bastard Pink for those in the know); new high point going for the last move.

F - Church Crag. Perfect cons. Lovely spot, shame it's so close to the A1 but otherwise very nice and a perfect bouldering wall. Did Used for Glue and Shield RH both in a few goes (latter brilliant), then set about Gulliver's Travels. Struggled with the shapes at first but gradually warmed into it and did it eventually. Fantastic problem, as good as anything else I've done on lime. Flashed The Pockets and then had a few punts at The Shield and nearly held the move.

S / S - family visit