[shark]

11.2-4 Average 157.3 down 0.1lb on last week

M

T Morning. Tor. Beautiful hot day again (hard to believe it now). Met Nige. Andy C and Olly H also rocked up. Did Bens from kneebar rest almost to top twice but both times little finger slid off last hold for left hand as reached off it. Third time it stayed put :-) and finished. Only done this link once before back last summer. Tried from start twice but tired and didn’t get thru to kneebar rest. Sore tips. Feeling keen went to the Foundry. Reworked black 7a in Furnace on autobelay then did it clean 3 or 4 times. Tried green 7A+ in middle but couldn’t even see how to do it.

W

T

F Noon. Malham with Paul, Cheque and Nige. Second session of the year. 8 degrees cloudy dry no wind good consistent connies throughout day. Warm up on Cons and F&EE. Five tie ins on Oak. 2 Warm up goes First on bottom section of Oak. Second up all of it working throw (need to concentrate on hanging out more on undercut) and linked from undercut at start of top traverse to top. Go 1 and 2 Climbed slickly Ground to touching horn - second go more solid Go 3 Back sore, tips screaming and tired but kept it together till shutdown on set up for throw. Climbed slickly and good improvement on first session. Nige did really well though had a hard time adjusting to stiff shoes - overlapping halves and good training links at end
S 4 hours carpet scrubbing/deep cleaning. Systems Board. AeroCap 20/10s 240 moves. Eve   

S 2+hours walk with dogs.

Tried to do a fingerboard session on weds but it was instantly clear I wasn't recovered enough. Intended doing one today but felt generally shattered. Lower back has been playing up this week again.   

This week up to Malham Tuesday and Friday.

[yetix]

Sounds like good sessions on two projects Shark! Nice one!

Lighter week for me this week, after 6 harder weeks on

M: rest
T: rest
W: went to try Roof of a Baby Buddha, managed the following links, moves 1-3, 2-4, 4-end multiple times each so a good project to start linking!
T: rest
F: rest
S: rest
S: Parisellas cave, tried Rock Atrocity from the wobbly block a few times, managed to do it to the pinch. Also repeated rock atrocity first go so some good overlapping links there. Di the end moves of Lou Ferrino from the crimpy rail to the end and did moves 1-3 together and 3-the lip

[monkoffunk]

STG - Climb Fighting Torque.
Weight ~75kg.
MTG - Plan Spring Font trip
LTG - 7C

M - 76.6kg Portland. Warm up on Another Notch in the Gun nice 6b. Clips in FT second warm up. One RP in sun, off at undercuts. Haute Cuisine 7a (techy, crimpy) in two goes whilst waiting for sun off FT. Second go in perfect conditions, reached high point and then powered down completely. Decided against another go. Fell of Shiver me Timbers 7a on-sight past crux when heel hook slipped off rest. Surprisingly good given book description: loose and painful.

Started the day with tender forearms. I think this whole week will need to be short sessions and recovery focused for another crack next week, need to be feeling strong!

T - Rest (slightly unwilling, but necessary)
W - Red spider. 30 mins warm up, 1 hour on the board. With a timer, stopped feeling strong.
T - Rest
F - Exact repeat of Wednesday.
S - Rest. Spent the evening in cocktail bars and a party and avoided booze!
S - Rest. No booze.

Portland tomorrow if weather holds out! Feel better than I have in weeks...

[Duma]

Power Club

Goals: Uninjured, 70kg, 8A in UK, Rocklands in June.

M - TCA eve, hardish bouldering, mainly trying one of the wood projects, think I should put a bit more time into this, see if it may be possible. 50 PU, 30 SU, 10 VSit.

T - Cheddar, Remnant. Back on Right Hand Man 8a. Go 1 b2b to warm up and work out sequence on lower section, felt hard and flailed around. Go 2 got lower bit sorted and really good link of all the hard climbing. Go 3 got past crux to 4th bolt but couldn't clip, tried to push on but nothing left. Go 4 should have been the one, pissed the lower section, then missed bumping RH before crux and thus failed. Go 5 messed up feet on initial hard moves but managed to get through, nothing left for crux though. Go 6 and 7 knackered, couldn't get through lower section. Roz made Empire Strikes Back (8a+) look about 6b in the meantime. Lush day despite the lack of tick, happy to have a solid sequence now. So nice to be out in the sunshine. 40 PU, 30 SU, 10 VSit. Knackered in eve.

W - Still knackered in morning, maybe didn't drink enough yesterday. am 30 min hilly run. Eve few circuits at TCA, meant just do v easy aerocap but ended up getting distracted by harder things so pe really. 40 PU,  30 SU, 10 VSit.

T - TCA comp, happy with how I climbed, topped 28/30, flashed 24/30. Should have flashed couple more but otherwise fair reflection. Arrived bit late though so no rest between finishing main set and finals, had nothing left really. 3rd in finals, won vets. 40 PU, 30 SU, 10 VSit.

F -  TCA pm, 10:10 easy circuits, just a bit recovery really. 40 PU,  30 SU, 10 VSit.

S - TCA pm, bit of easy bouldering, feeling pretty shattered from nights, had a brief dabble at the finals problems from Thurs but no progress. 40 PU,  30 SU, 10 VSit.

S - 40 PU,  30 SU, 10 VSit.

Av 69.8kg.

[tomtom]

Good week Duma!! and sounds like a reasonable one Sharkus?

M: Work

Tu: Work - interviews all day.... figured I had enough time to make it to Church crag if they finished at 3, for some evening bouldering... last two candidates spoke alot. Looking out of the window watching the sun go down... Got to CC for about 5 meant I'd have an hour. Good to bump into one of the local climbers - had a rushed but pleasant session.. nothing new done..

We: Work - more things to do - more deadlines..

Th: Fragmented day with the lad.. went to the airport (he got bored after 40 min) so went to Quarry Bank (he fell asleep so went home) then after lunch went to look at trees in the garden centre - where he ran around lots (good) but then had a monster poo and wouldnt comply.. nearly messy but not.

Fri: Most of the day free - but a cloudy and slightly claggy forecast. Bah. Felt too condensy to risk lime so headed to Curbar. The 'errand' MrsTT asked me to do on the way ended up taking me a different route and I caught loads of traffic on the way there (seriously - how many temporary traffic lights do you need on the A6?) and it took me nearly two hours in the end...
Trackside was alright ish - pit was OK but sub primo. Went to the Pit - not too bad.. Set about Early Doors (that is a gap in my Curbar 7A's cv - and the best problem in the pit probably) and got the bottom half done fine - just didnt feel confident topping out with a slightly squirmy (not optimal) slopey rail... My RH has pinged off the first crimp over the top before (depositing me heavily in between mats) so in slightly off connies and on my own I wasnt really in the mood to give it 100%. Went back to trackside - usual smooth trackside dispatch - and worked on side track (it really wasnt the day for it) and went home a bit cup half empty.

Sa: Family day etc..

Su: Crap weather. Depot. Decent session - got stuck into a couple of purples which I enjoyed. Bumped into a fellow UKB'er sxrg who'd not met before (hello) and had a good catch up with Galpinos on the way out...

A bit of a hmm week. But keeping at it. Weight slowly creeping down. Now into the 11st3's....

[duncan]

Lush day despite the lack of tick, happy to have a solid sequence now.

Sounds great. You'd need the tick to have qualified for the full Gert Lush?

STG: Manage aches and pains. One session of bouldering a week. Build route fitness base.
MTG: Colorado bucket list routes in May, a classic E5 this summer.
LTG: 5.13 at 60; a LH&F BHAG.

M - Shoulder strength (Is, Ys and Ts on the rings; side planks; single arm push-ups; 4 pull-ups, not all at the same time obvs).
T - Westway ‘bouldering’ (3 Yellow ‘V2/3’), didn’t rush the session and felt good. Shoulder strength. Walked 13km in the sun.
W - Shoulder strength.
T - Westway autobelay Aerocap: 7.5 mins on, 7.7mins off for an hour and a half. 250m / ~500 hand movements so trivial compared to the Wiklund protocol but it’s a start. The primary aim of training is to keep training and climbing - not get injured - so easy does it. .
F - Shoulder strength. 10km brisk walking.
S - Dancing Ledge quarry - Dorset’s finest hole in the ground - with the Brexiteer and the retired super-alpinist. Didn’t sleep well, felt under-par, and struggled with the early start. Thankful others were driving. Had a nap in the morning sun, drank copious reviving cups of tea and enjoyed the sea air. Felt better for all of this and did 8 routes, mostly repeats but scratched up a greasy Perpetual State of Confusion with a ludicrous sequence. All good fun and felt great to be out, even if not quite as sublime as the Sierra del Prades.   
S - Shoulder strength.

Aches and pains all relatively good [/tempting fate], good training week and nice to keep the hand in on rock.

Plan: one bouldering/strength session, supportive exercises, aerocap/route fitness.

[shark]

Sounds like good sessions on two projects Shark! Nice one!

Thanks

and sounds like a reasonable one Sharkus?

With so many other things going on this week I hadn’t really reflected on it but yes, whilst not new links, encouragingly positive performances for the time of year.

I’ve given myself 3 more sessions to get through the horn move or back off till the autumn. Lacking the required stoic gnarl at social fixtures has got in the way of getting sub 11 stone which is typically what I’ve weighed getting past the horn previously so a little annoyed at myself for that as well as not maintaining fingerboarding.

[nai]

M - Chomping at the bit to get out but school INSET day so just some hip and leg mobility

T - Curbar with Plattsy and Dolly.  Too warm reallly, even in the shade. Tried to finish Humpin' at the cost of a few layers of skin and no progress.  Luckily had Dolly there to reason that it would feel so much easier on a cooler day and to walk away.
Went to Loafstone but was wilting in the heat and came down with a case of CBA.

Bar and floor Core

W - Nocturnal Steamroller had paid an overnight visit. Domestic chores, hips and legs mobility

Th  -
Anston - eventually worked a method of doing Alpha. Seems nails for 7B. Harder for the short?

Pulled onto Tech Nine once and sacked it after my hand flew off the crimp - standard

Tired by now but worked out how to do Beta Blocker again then tried to link from Reservation. Close but no ticky tick tick tick

Core still feeling it from Tuesday and Plattsy had suggested I was maybe overdoing it so did half what I normally do (2 lever progressions, 2 assisted levers, 2 dragon flag reverse, 2x3x1 min floor circuit (ab wheel, leg raise/hollow body, mountain climbers))

F
AM - Leg Day - squats, hip thrust and lunges but I had a nag telling me I had to deadlift, so did 5x30kg, 5x50kg and 5x60kg.
Afternoon leg and hip mobility

Was planning to take nipper to mini works after school, around 2:30 made a decision to benchmark deadhang beforehand. Haven't done any hanging this year, last Max hangs session was 9th November and did a block of repeaters that ended in December.  After that I came up with a theory that it wasn't FS holding me back but shoulder strength, so I've been doing a lot of Scap shrugs and built up from needing an assistance band to do three sets of 10 to being able to add 10kg.

Anyway, warm up was going ok and it was only when I took a break pre main workout and checked previous scores that I realised I was close to PBs.

So decided to go all out on the main session:
Hang 1 - F3 low edge, PB+1kg. Success.
Hang 2 - 4f low edge PB+1kg, Success. 
hang 3 - M2 med pocket PB +1kg success
hang 4 - 4f 20mm edge PB + 2kg FAIL @4s
hang 5 - 4f 20mm edge =PB Success.

Not really conclusive but curious that I levelled out on the final grip when adding around 1/3rd BW.  Think it's worth continuing with this experiment, going to aim for scap pullups at 1.5x BW and retest.

S leg and hip mobility

S-
AM shoulder mobility

PM Nipper declined offer of a wall visit so:

3x hollow body hangs 30s +2kg
3x10 scap pullups +12kg,
6x10 various pressups,
3x10 dips,
TRX - row, reverse fly, Ys. Rev Ys.
1/2 Core. 3x Lsit; 3x lever progressions; 2x rev dragon; 2x3 min floor circuit

[tommytwotone]

Goal: 3 x new (to me) Font 7a outdoors


Self worth: low


M: Nowt
T: no exercise, long day in the office + home stress on arrival, ended up having a couple of beers in the evening
W: planned night out with company's new owners. Pleasant one, not too heavy and had a nice burger.
T: Nowt
F: Gym on lunch, first time in ages. Gymathlon: 5k bike, 3k run, 2k row. Approx 38 mins for whole thing (inc. rests and transitions)
S: Amazed to find nocturnal steamroller hadn't been. Took youngest (just 2) to The Lab - he had a good time, mainly running round pointing at all the holds and getting the colours 100% wrong on every one. He did pull on a couple of times, stand up on first foothold and grab next hold so that's a positive.
S: Day at Armouries with family. Shot a crossbow. Resisted a beer in the evening.

[sdm]

Anston - eventually worked a method of doing Alpha. Seems nails for 7B. Harder for the short?

Definitely. People who are ~5'11'' can bump to the sloper and even match it without moving their feet from the massive ledge at the bottom and may not have to use the right hand pinch at all.

Shorter people have to cut loose on the first move, sort their feet out, drop in to the pinch, go again for the sloper and then use the heel to match the sloper. I think it's a better problem this way, even if it did take longer than I thought it would to get it done.

Pulled onto Tech Nine once and sacked it after my hand flew off the crimp - standard

Was that long enough to work out a sequence?

I think I started right hand on a pinch right at the back, left on a crimp not quite at the back of the roof and was trying to slap with my left knee dropped a bit. Seemed hard.

[shark]

Self worth: low

 

[jwi]

Tue 26 feb
15 min hangboard

Wed 27 feb
Very light resistance training, pullups, pushups, some core

Ths 28 feb
6c warmup
Dogged No War (8b/+)
Attempt No war, climbed crazy bad, fell 3 moves from end of hard bit. Hung 30 s and climbed to the top
Attempt No war, highpoint! Climbed bad on first part, fell on last move of the hard bit.
Attempt No war, fell 3 moves from end. Could not link to top after short rest.

Fri 1 feb
Early flight to Fontainebleau to meet old friend.
Bouldering in Apremont in evening without guidebook. Did very little

Sat
Rain in the morning, went to Drei Zinnen at 4pm and potted around. Did a few easy slabs, some harder stuff up to 7B

Sun
Nothing

[Will Hunt]

I have a 6 foot 1 inch span (practically superhuman in the eyes of some) and I couldn't do alpha by bumping again to the sloper. The reach may have been there (not sure, can't really remember) but if you've not got a very very strong core then your feet will come off and it'll all go wrong. The swing you'd have to hold doing it like that would be massive.

It could well be harder for the significantly short, but the above sounds like classic Benism: ruling out the achievments of others on the basis of them being slightly taller. It might be that taller climbers use a different sequence in alpha, but holding the swing with their massive legs flailing about probably requires them to be 7B strong in a different way.

[remus]

As a shorter gent and my sequence on alpha was: right hand in the funny slotty undercut, lh pinch, right foot on obvious good bit, paste left foot high-ish and go for the lh crimp, left foot across, right heel on then right hand over the top to the sloper. I thought the move to the crimp was by far the hardest, once I stuck that it was in the bag for me. Don't think I'd have the reach to bump left hand again to the sloper off the pinch.

[cheque]

Rehab Diaries Week Twenty-eight

STG- Leading HVS/ low 6s by end of September.

M- Rest.

T- Rest. Still tired from The weekend!

W-  Fingerboard repeaters & pushups. After posting in this thread I decided to stick with repeaters but raise the time to 7 on, 3 off and add in some new holds for the new “cycle”, following Stu’s advice that anything that works is good. I’m at such a beginner stage that I don’t need to change it much! Felt tough which is good I suppose.

T- Rest.

F- Malham of all places- off work and with the offer of a lift up I thought that a day attempting to climb there on a toprope would be a far superior alternative to an autobelay session. Had five burns on Consenting Adults which I first did in June 2012 and I’ve climbed in various senses as a warm-up many times since.

First go was as hard as expected (very hard) with about 10 hangs on the rope, second got it down to 5 hangs, third 3 hangs then fourth and fifth hung just 2 times- on the fifth I had that “I could be better at this if I was fresh” feeling! 

Interestingly the contact between the rock and my hands and feet wasn’t that much of a problem. At first I felt like my hip flexibility and ability to pull my core in were stopping me but these became less of an issue when warmed up. It seemed to be mainly a case of remembering how I used to do the moves and coming up with new ways to do some of them to suit my new physical setup!

S- Rest. Oof.

S- Gym. Usual weights and machines. Up to 80kg deadlift now.

Mad week. Absolute quantum leap in my post-accident climbing to climb at Malham on Friday- still can’t believe how well I did. 

I was amazed that I wasn’t pumped on Consenting so much as out of breath- I suppose it’s unsurprising given that I was on a ventilator for 10 days with another tube draining the blood out of my lungs! Weird how quick you forget this stuff (even if you promise yourself you won’t)- in searching for the right term for ventilator I found a picture of one of these and remembered that for more than a week my life was based around trying to lift all three balls to the top. Looking at the picture brings so much back. Fucking hell.

Signed up to go back to Malham tomorrow with the aim of giving it at least one lead attempt- can’t think of much else currently.

[highrepute]

Not much again. Took all week to recover from the sickness. Did an hour at works on

Thursday Eve to be social. just on floro-yellow circuit.

Saturday
 got an hour and a half at the mighty Heeley boulders. Made and dispatched a nice problem through the roof on the original boulder. Then a crimpy rising traverse of the steep face of the new boulder which I was too tired to finish off.

Have a potential Tuesday morning window on Voyager, psyche!

[SA Chris]

M - hill reps 4 x 500m with 50 m up. iIn a pari of trainers I've not really worn before, probably a mistake, calves sore.
T - stressed - hard set of angry weights
W - light climbing session, low motivation, and limited time.
T - lunchtime yoga. DOMS from Tuesday.
F - ran home from work 21km - calf worse.
S - nothing, shopped for new trainers.
S - walk with family, 5 k run in evening, feeling a bit better.

[spidermonkey09]

Good week Shark. Conditions look pretty good this week, good luck. Also good work Cheque! That must have felt amazing.

M -  rest. Felt like I'd been run over by a truck after two days on, chips for dinner and a beer to finish to previous night. Not optimal recovery.

T - Depot. Felt very sore on the board; brachialis tendon playing up again, which is normally a symptom of too much undercutting. Did a session of FOC instead and completed two rounds of 60 on, 45 off x 8 with 10 mins rest inbetween. Wasn't overly strict on a move per second for the second set but will drop to 30 secs rest next time and be strict; a recipe for failure!

W - rest.

T - Depot. Much better on the board; knocked out a variant on the undercut problem I'd been trying before Christmas and repeated various things. Some circuits to finish but felt sore so bailed earlier than usual.

F - rest.

S - Malham. Tried the Bat Route boulder from the big sidepull and dropped it in the jug. Few minutes rest on the rope and did it to the kneebars  Felt like a big breakthrough. Had a brief tickle on the headwall but unsurprisingly powered out. Second go up refined some sequences on the headwall including doing the desperate section moving between two undercuts which was satisfying. Can definitely start trying good links up there now.

S - Malham again as weather was shit. Absolutely baltic but good friction once fingers were warm. Felt really sore in arms and bicep tendons; one go up on the headwall and refined foot sequence through to bird hole which feels really important; much more confident on this section now. Linked a good little section out of the hole after a rest too.

Breakthrough weekend doing the bulge and headwall crux in the same session; it definitely goes (shit!). On the downside, feeling very tweaky in arms so a trip to St Leger probably coming at a good time. Knee has also started hurting again as it did last summer indicating gluteal imbalance. Will do some rehab and stay off it for a few weekends, gain some fitness in France and then start trying to link the headwall once back.

[Murph]

Sounds like you’re putting the work in there Duma. Good stuff.

M-stretching
T-45 minutes at trackside in ?20 degree heat. Normal (sans sidetrack) circuit - it was too hot to be getting on that. Fingerboard max hangs completing 3 sets of 10s on both small and medium BM edges with +32. Best session of the year.
W-stretching
T-works pinkles (4?) circuit and some irn brus (5/6?). Back still not great but getting better. Truly I sometimes feel like the worst climber there, in a non judgemental way.
F-back physio
S-damp family session at Robin Hoods / cratcliffe. We watched The Princess Bride in the week and kids loved seeing the place I always take them was a film star. Recreated the scene a few times. Also had a few half hearted attempts on t crack but wasn’t really feeling it or warmed up at all (had basically done some laps of a 3+ slab in between showers). Some friendly types there though so I now have all the beta.
S-chicken pox at murph towers meant I sort of had a pass. Finding out someone had sent their griffs project (I won’t spray for him but I was made up) meant I really wanted to get out. But the winter weather was back and griffs apparently would take a lot of drying. Still wanted to climb on a rock though so took the 3 year old to minus 10 in the rain. I really am a selfless parent. He ran round blowing /chasing bubbles, spraying beta and encouragement and keeping me informed about how much he needed a poo. I had 12 (twelve) attempts at “easy dyno” 6A before it went down. Great feeling. Dynos are one of my many weaknesses and even though it was only 6A I found it really hard. Tops off for power hard. Would have loved to stay longer but it really was raining by then and someone apparently really needed a poo (he didn’t).
After, max hangs now up to +40kgs for 8s. Best session of the year. It’s getting there.

Not really sure what I’m after for my climbing at the minute - whether it’s just a nice thing to do or whether I want to push my standard a bit. A couple of injuries recently have set back performance goals so just enjoying a bit of movement on rock. I know that my future self would than me for disappearing into a training dungeon for a few months but my current self isn’t so psyched for that.

Gosh that was a long one and a bit introspective and Groundhog Day got anyone who’s read one of mine before but there it is.

68.2kgs down a bit but a lot higher than ideal.

[Fiend]

Well done Chequebeast. Get posting on the deadlifting thread now

[AMorris]

Great to see people are having strong weeks all round!

Still battling with dim psyche, but managed to do some training this week, all be it feeling extremely weak and unenthusiastic for the most part.

M - Traveling back from Prague. Took 14 hours from my hotel to my house, and after getting all the way to Machynlleth (2 stops away from home), the train broke down which meant a 40 minute wait for a 50 minute replacement bus journey 

T - Training at the wall. Very weak, no skin and no enthusiasm so I sacked it in after a couple of hours of falling off stuff I used to run laps on.

W - Rest.

T - Training. Still no power but I found out that I am okay with endurance stuff at the moment so went on a mission to find some pump-fests. This was a more enjoyable use of my time and inspired me to make a linkups sheet for the panel book.

F - Core. 5x10 rollouts. 3x20 windscreen wipers.

S - Rest

S - Fingerboard session (BM2), my first in weeks. Was feeling far from my best but not awful all things considered.:
2x8s hang single arm lower rung with BW -2kg.
2x6s hang single arm lower rung BW.
2x3s hang single arm lower rung BW.
Repeat for dragging front 3.
3x8s back 3 small edges 2 arms.
2x6s Back 2 thin pockets (felt dangerous and hard).
Then a weird pumpy routine of 15 second on 10 second off 35 slopers and edges alternating for 6 hangs while the app was telling me to warm down.
A bunch of front levers. Felt not too bad.

All in all, the mix of the enduro climbing and a not terrible hang session left me feeling a little more enthusiastic. Perhaps 30 move plods are my calling for now... 

[Will Hunt]

T - Fancied a change of scenery so went to the Big Depot to meet up with the LMC. Did some stuff to warm up and a set of 4 on a 6 something but wasn't really getting the required burn on the larger open handholds. Partner left and everyone else seemed paired up so used the autobelays. Had a good burn on a crimpy wall 6c and was very close to failure on the 4th burn. With no motivating partner I then gave up and went bouldering!
Lesson learned about self - boring endurance style training needs craic and probably somebody prepared to discipline me into it to be bearable.

Midweek sometime I was pondering my crapness with my heels. In part I think it's because I'm quite weak in the arms, so can't pull as easily into a position whereby I can get my heel in the right place. However, something I hadn't really considered before is the inflexibility of my legs being a factor in getting the heel to the right place and at the right angle. So maybe I should do some hip flexibility stretches? Or maybe just complain about being "tall" and leave it at that? It works for short people 

Su - Absolutely could not face another trip to Almscliff. All I've got to do there is Stu's Left, which on paper should go but I didn't think I could face the misery of not doing it. Bit the bullet and left early to go to Kentmere where I've never been before. On the face of it it seems like a mammoth drive but it's only an hour and 40 mins. So total home to crag time is comparable to Slipstones/Sypeland/Sigsworth etc. Felt really unusual to be on a half day hit but in a totally different cultural landscape. When I looked at the volcanic drystone walls it sent my brain all funny in a nice way. Warmed up on the Badger Stone which was OK. Badger Arete was nice. Then to Little Font and got immediately sucked into Karma of Trees. Much torn skin and a completely fucked right shoe later I moved onto Weasel stuff and was a bit disappointed. Was too far gone for Runs On Weasel and the other stuff was death or glory slaps to the top of the boulder if you've no spotter. The storm arrived and I popped home.

In other news, the Troller's Gill material for the guidebook is ready to go to the pagesetter. This is the first of the limestone crags to reach this stage so feels like a big step, even if it should have happened ages ago. Will be trying to get another crag to a similar state before the week is out.

[spidermonkey09]

Lesson learned about self - boring endurance style training needs craic and probably somebody prepared to discipline me into it to be bearable.

I'll happily discipline you through some foot on campusing if you like...

[Fiend]

So that's why his Royal Lankness wasn't at the normal Leeds Depot on Sunday....

Regarding 1:40 as a "mammoth drive" rather than a bare minimum is a nice reminder why I moved South of the Wall....

[gollum]

 M-T Snowboarding in Tignes. Bluebird skies and the pistes were fabulous. Gave up looking for great off piste by Wednesday

F - A very different day. High winds and snow which all felt like a battle. Found some great powder under a lift on the very last run of the trip.

S- Travelling, now that really is tiring.

S - Run out with Mrs B in the pouring rain.

Looking forward to some upward movement again this week.

[measles23]

so took the 3 year old to minus 10 in the rain

Always plumbing the depths of child neglect in the interests of a quick tick - nice..

[Will Hunt]

So that's why his Royal Lankness wasn't at the normal Leeds Depot on Sunday....

Regarding 1:40 as a "mammoth drive" rather than a bare minimum is a nice reminder why I moved South of the Wall....

Where are you now? Should we expect to see the sexmagik dwarf at the Depot any time soon?

[Duma]

Lush day despite the lack of tick, happy to have a solid sequence now.

Sounds great. You'd need the tick to have qualified for the full Gert Lush?

Ha! I've been in Bristol a while!
Good to be reminded of dancing ledge, spent a lot of fun days there while at uni, think I was once within 2 routes if ticking the quarry..

[Smith42]

M - Gym Bike 5k/run 5k/bike 15k. (10/27/30)

T - Planned on Shafto after work but my meeting overran and didn’t get to the crag till 17:30.  Managed Viagra Plus SS more by will power than skill then walked out getting back to the car with just enough daylight.  Maybe bit soon in the year for after work sessions.  Got home and did Max Hangs 27/28/30/30/30kg which is up 2.5kg.  Fingers feeling very strong at the moment.

W - Sun Wall, Warmed up on 6a+ then had two working attempts at White 7a+.  Then further two goes up Red 6c+ which had done previously.  Forearms had nothing in them today but been training hard for two week and maxed out last night.

Th - Gym, Bike/Run/Bike 9/27/19.

F - Climb New. Pool, warmed up on purples then tried @ ten problems at on sight limit, flashed 7, did 2 more and completely shut down on the other.  Then tried some Max Hangs but underperformed, struggled at 25KG, don’t know if was tired or just normally do Max Hangs earlier in session.  Not too perturbed by dip in weight as had already scheduled a rest week for next week.

Sat - Went downhill biking with GF for first time.  Was a bit concerned that she had full body armour and I had elbow pads strapped on with tape but it was a right laugh and the bike I had borrowed was so good and forgiving of my lack of ability.  Flipping great fun but high chance of injury!

Sun - Hepburn.  Mint conditions, warmed and flashed some stuff and sent some stuff but got shut down on Rheumatology 7A.  Not sure why, landings not great but couldn’t work out what was going wrong. 
Got lost and in argument with GF over which way to walk to find the Berthele’s Stone (I let her decide even though I thought it was the wrong way and she then got fed up and walked off with one pad).  Found the Berthele’s Stone (exactly where I thought it was) and then realised I couldn’t try Daze Of The Weak with one pad.  Doh.  Consolation flash of Commando 7A which is a very appropriate name.

Overall another good week. 
Found my way round Hepburn now so have to go back for the classics and Rheumatology! 
Need to start working endurance into the plan as just booking Kalymnos for May. 
Also think I’ve found my rest day activity if I can minimise the risk of injury!

[Smith42]

In other news, the Troller's Gill material for the guidebook is ready to go to the pagesetter. This is the first of the limestone crags to reach this stage so feels like a big step, even if it should have happened ages ago. Will be trying to get another crag to a similar state before the week is out

Whats happening at Trollers?  New guide??

[Duma]

Good work on Ben's and oak shark, but only three more sessions this season? It's barely March!

Forgive me if this makes no sense (I don't have a good map of the route in my head) but do you ever try to do longer links to the top?

[nai]

As a shorter gent and my sequence on alpha was: right hand in the funny slotty undercut, lh pinch, right foot on obvious good bit, paste left foot high-ish and go for the lh crimp, left foot across, right heel on then right hand over the top to the sloper. I thought the move to the crimp was by far the hardest, once I stuck that it was in the bag for me. Don't think I'd have the reach to bump left hand again to the sloper off the pinch.

Thanks for all the input, folks.

This is from a stand yeah?  Been back today and trying to sit must bump it up again, and isn't actually very good.

Did similar, same hands, LF on a nubbin, RF in a scoopy thing pushing left (R of the obvious good bit). Static reach for the crimp. Right heel on an edge on the back wall, slap into the big sidepull. Move LF left of the flake, R Heel in flake, RH over for the shelf.  Oddly, the reach for the crimp is the easiest move.

[Duma]

First go was as hard as expected (very hard) with about 10 hangs on the rope, second got it down to 5 hangs, third 3 hangs then fourth and fifth hung just 2 times- on the fifth I had that “I could be better at this if I was fresh” feeling! 

Interestingly the contact between the rock and my hands and feet wasn’t that much of a problem. At first I felt like my hip flexibility and ability to pull my core in were stopping me but these became less of an issue when warmed up. It seemed to be mainly a case of remembering how I used to do the moves and coming up with new ways to do some of them to suit my new physical setup!

Mad week. Absolute quantum leap in my post-accident climbing to climb at Malham on Friday- still can’t believe how well I did. 

Signed up to go back to Malham tomorrow with the aim of giving it at least one lead attempt- can’t think of much else currently.

This sounds amazing cheque, nice one! Always inspired by your PC posts, the effort and perspective combined is great.

[Will Hunt]

In other news, the Troller's Gill material for the guidebook is ready to go to the pagesetter. This is the first of the limestone crags to reach this stage so feels like a big step, even if it should have happened ages ago. Will be trying to get another crag to a similar state before the week is out

Whats happening at Trollers?  New guide??

Working on a new select guide which will include Yorkshire limestone. To be published by Wired.
I've credited you with the FA of Moddey Dhoo based on the thread I started a while ago. If you've got a specific year or date of the FA I can slot it in.

[SA Chris]

Got lost and in argument with GF over which way to walk to find the Berthele’s Stone (I let her decide even though I thought it was the wrong way and she then got fed up and walked off with one pad).  Found the Berthele’s Stone (exactly where I thought it was) and then realised I couldn’t try Daze Of The Weak with one pad.

This sounds so familiar.

[gme]

Mon- Moonboard session doing benchmarks up to 6C+. Still have a few to tick off on my mission to do all the benchmark 6s before Spain. I doubt this will happen as a couple feel hard. Grades all over as usual, flashed 2 and failed to do all the moves on one of them.

Tues-Thurs 3 days eating, drinking and being cultural in edinburgh with my better half, lots of fun and chilled. Very nice food both nights in Kitchin and David Bann, i would recommend both of them.

Fri-  stretching am. Max hangs on micros. managed 3 x 7 secs on the 8mm at BW (82kg)then 3 on 10mm plus 5kg. Changed hold due to pain. Easy weights session with the youngest which was fun.

Sat - Stretching am. Valley 55 board session for 1 hr. Pretty strong and managed to re do my hardest problem. Then 6 in 6 session from the crimpd app. Did this on 6 12 move problems. This is a killer and really good high end ancap. For those without the app it is 6 problems done on the minute per set, three sets with 5 mins between sets. I was utterly wasted by the end and fell on the last three problems, in fact i could hardly pull on to the last.
Finished off with a rings session from the app. Hard day.

Sun - rest.

Bit of a mixed week due to wifey time but ended well. I had that throbbing forearm feeling that i have not felt in a long time all night on sat and everything hurt on Sunday. I know pushing your self to failure isn't the done thing these days but its fun. 2 weeks to spain so need more of it.

[jamesturnbull97]

Just plenty more board climbing around work last week.
Mon - Home Board. Good session repeating loads of previous problems, then managed to do one of my projects out of the blue having only done one of the moves on it it then just went with minimal fuss. God knows how hard it is went from feeling like the hardest thing on the board to not feeling that hard.
Tues - Depot Board. Unsuprisingly felt tired for Mondays session, managed to repeat my usual circuit and did both versions of PalmerSutra but nothing new.
Thurs - First day off after 14 days at work and typically was the first one that was a bit grim. Ended up going on a big walk in the moors from Great Ayton. Depot in the evening, expected to feel tired but actually felt surprisingly good. Again did both versions of PalmerSutra which I feel like I can do most goes now which feels like good progression as I couldn't even do the moves on it a couple of weeks ago. Managed to flash PalmerHam which was a surprise and then did it in a couple of goes on the other side. Again dropped the top move on The Austrian Joke.
Sun - Finished work earlier than expected so went back to the board. Again usual circuit inc PalmerSutra and PalmerHam, managed to finish Austrian Joke. Also did a problem Will Buck showed me a few weeks back which had been feeling pretty tough.

Really starting to feel like I'm getting back into shape after my injury, still not quite back to where I'd like to be but good to be feeling strong again. Another mini success was being able to get my proper tight shoes on my left foot again with pain for the first time!

[user deactivated]

Self worth club - hehe.

What about ‘searching for the pot of gold at the end of the proverbial rainbow club’

[shark]

Good work on Ben's and oak shark, but only three more sessions this season? It's barely March!

Forgive me if this makes no sense (I don't have a good map of the route in my head) but do you ever try to do longer links to the top?

Looking back at the time I got close I got through the throw move in about 5 sessions. Last Autumn I didnt get throught it once    To have a good chance of doing it I should be getting through the move 2 or 3 times in a session. I therefore figure that if I'm not getting through the move at least once in the first five sessions then I'm too far off gettng to the point of getting through it 2 or 3 times in a session and it would be better physically and mentally to back off and continue training whilst building a pyramid of routes and boulder problems over the Spring and Summer to set me up well for going back on it in the Autumn. 

Re longer links I have done it from the second bolt to the top on 2 or 3 occasions which is 4 hand moves and 6 foot moves from the ground. My more regular link is "throw to the top" which is 6 hand moves and 11 foot moves from the start. 

[petejh]

I thought Ondra's maxim was '10 sessions maximum and then move on if you haven't done it'. But I guess he's never sieged anything for this long.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - decided to give fingers some rest. Power clean up to 90% (72 kg) x1x2, very happy. Failed 95%. Then a monster EMOM set at 60% (50 kg) 5x12. Brutal. 
Tue - rest.
Wed - power clean x5, ab wheel x10, pull ups x5 EMOM x45 (3x15).
Thu - boxing bag.
Fri - rest.
Sat - rest.
Sun - clean and press x5, ab wheel x10, pull ups x5 all x10. Harder than the EMOM.

[andy_e]

Austrian Joke

I've been away from the board for too long. What version is this?

[Yossarian]

M - Wall. 5th day on, tired and skin a bit thin. Did some good steeper problems before syke ran out, and then watched daughter and the kids squad.
T - 12km trail run and yoga / stretching - inc palms flat on floor for the first time.
W - Wall. Decent session. Felt good on their 45 board. Made progress on new problem and a couple of others. Bit of time on the circuit board - 3 goes on crimpy 7a, failing near the end and getting v pumped. Minute burns doing foot-on-campus, again pumped stupid. 3x 5mins aerocap - skin a bit trashed by the end.
T - 12km trail run. Started BM session but skin sore.
F - Wall. Lingering fatigue from W. Started on 45 board but no coordination. Circuit board - did 7a first go. 4 more laps, failing on the last 2. Bit of foot-on-campus.
S - Meant to go and do routes at White Spider, but admin issues meant that plan got delayed then cancelled. Did BM repeaters plus some max hangs.
S - Wall. Mainly harder steep problems. Was aiming for some longer AeroCap but my favoured bit of wall had been reset for YCS round the previous day and so gave up on that idea.

Weight - around 88kg, so previous weeks 86 was an anomaly.

Shoulder still hasn’t recovered completely, so trying to avoid stressing it too much. Finished 3rd book - YYFY - and would usually be heading out on some Dorset day trips at this point, but have 2 more overdue books to get on and finish asap, so the next few weeks are going to largely be spent inside. Got Cheddar guide (thanks Guy) and have been enjoying lining up southern sport routes for next round of excursions. Quite syked by endurance training, though combining that and continuing to make strength progress is going to take some planning.

[Bradders]

Austrian Joke

I've been away from the board for too long. What version is this?

Avoids the crux move by going to a wood sidepull, then undercut and top as normal (although I think James uses the right hand offset credit card, as opposed to the top pink crimp, which is surely easier?).

[jamesturnbull97]

Austrian Joke

I've been away from the board for too long. What version is this?

Just a harder finish to Mock, think it is a Tom Frost creation.
Same as Mock to the RH cheese. Then LH chewing gum packet, RH same undercut as mock, LH offset credit card, top. I'll stick some photos on the Facebook group of my current crop of powerclub problems.

[James Malloch]

Bit the bullet and left early to go to Kentmere where I've never been before. On the face of it it seems like a mammoth drive but it's only an hour and 40 mins.

If you can ever make a non-Tuesday evening and fancy some Big Depot sessions let me know!

Bit the bullet and left early to go to Kentmere where I've never been before. On the face of it it seems like a mammoth drive but it's only an hour and 40 mins.

I'm keen to get back up to Kentmere / Lakes in general so drop me a line if you plan to head up. Got quite a few free weekends coming up (except this week) and would quite fancy getting out. Can pick up en-route 

[dunnyg]

I heard Will's house is "on the way" to everywhere.

[Bradders]

M - Depot. Really feeling big day out at Dow Crag the day before. Flashed a couple of purples then max hangs mainly 5x 10s one arm on middle BM2k low slot w/ 10kg assistance. Did 6x 4r maximal TRX Is and Ts between sets.

T - lunch gym just doing yoga. Core DOMS from TRX

W - DOMS still going on

T - Depot Board, trying same 5 problems as before. Best session so far although still couldn't flipping do the middle move on Palmer Sutra through 4/5 tries. Did Palmer Ham first go and then second go on Steady Intro got a new high point setting up for the penultimate move (from which I ejected spectacularly!). First and only go up Zoo nearly held the last hard move to the wood triangle, then Austrian Mock first go. Lastly had one go at an old problem which I've never been able to do (Woodcock's Bastard Pink for those in the know); new high point going for the last move.

F - Church Crag. Perfect cons. Lovely spot, shame it's so close to the A1 but otherwise very nice and a perfect bouldering wall. Did Used for Glue and Shield RH both in a few goes (latter brilliant), then set about Gulliver's Travels. Struggled with the shapes at first but gradually warmed into it and did it eventually. Fantastic problem, as good as anything else I've done on lime. Flashed The Pockets and then had a few punts at The Shield and nearly held the move.

S / S - family visit