W: Parisellas Cave, finally finished off Rock Atrocity! First of the grade, and went first go of the session. Psyched!
Nothing to report. Fun first half of the week then we all got D&V and life seemed like one endless stream of shit.
Nai - I knew that was you I saw this evening on your way home. One of these days we should coincide a pass. Would love to session the gorilla block with you.
Nice work Dan! We all know you don't get the full tick unless you go round to Doylo's and sort him out afterwards though. That's what I had to do anyway. Seems legit?
Had a last orders pass, got out about 4pm. Still warm so eschewed a lovely evening of sunny classics and sought gloom at Gorilla block. Wanted to add Humpin' to my #kingline list. Worked it out quite quickly but was struggling to do the first move, thought I'd be in if I did that move.
... emphasis will be on enjoying climbing. It's probably what I need most of all. If it also counts as building a base in preparation for the trad. season then even better.
This was my 9th time in Siurana since 2004. It was much less busy than the last 5 years, as quiet as back in the 00s. Has the circus moved on? The place is still as gorgeous as 15 years ago and Dave Graham is still trying La Rambla.
It was absolutely rammed in November (my first visit) and I had pretty big concerns about the long term viability of the place with so many people vanning it and shitting in the woods. We counted 40 vans in the biy layby halfway up the hill one day. Glad to hear that might have been the exception rather than the norm.
Max Hangs and the 55 deg board seem to be paying off for me big time.
Felt off Y Front first time then flashed the direct version. That’s Northumberland Grades for you, fall off 6A then Flash neighbouring 7A. Went back to Born Lippy, repeated top, repeated crux and then did it first go despite feet cutting loose unexpectedly on the crux.
S - Portland - Battleship. First routes since September. Fluffed first attempt at 6b warmup, mainly because of inability to find footholds. Then tried short 7a (Flickhead goes boing boing) which I failed to onsight (crux involved bouldery section followed by blind reach for a pocket) but then figured out fairly quickly. Didn’t hang around to RP as we were pressed for time and partner wanted to get on easier things but, though unsuccessful, this episode convinced me that, though Portland is basically my sport climbing antistyle, I finally seem to have fingers that can pull on some of the smaller holds. And also, despite having done zero endurance training between last summer and this week, I could actually hang around for a short while. So, with some structured endurance / foot-on campus over the coming weeks, I’m quite confident I can finally make some inroads on the longer 7s, and pretty syked for routes in general.
Quote from: Smith42 on February 25, 2019, 05:13:57 pmFelt off Y Front first time then flashed the direct version. That’s Northumberland Grades for you, fall off 6A then Flash neighbouring 7A. Went back to Born Lippy, repeated top, repeated crux and then did it first go despite feet cutting loose unexpectedly on the crux. I had the exact same day as this last year! Y Front was an awful choice for a warm up.
Quote from: Yossarian on February 26, 2019, 10:04:10 amS - Portland - Battleship. First routes since September. Fluffed first attempt at 6b warmup, mainly because of inability to find footholds. Then tried short 7a (Flickhead goes boing boing) which I failed to onsight (crux involved bouldery section followed by blind reach for a pocket) but then figured out fairly quickly. Didn’t hang around to RP as we were pressed for time and partner wanted to get on easier things but, though unsuccessful, this episode convinced me that, though Portland is basically my sport climbing antistyle, I finally seem to have fingers that can pull on some of the smaller holds. And also, despite having done zero endurance training between last summer and this week, I could actually hang around for a short while. So, with some structured endurance / foot-on campus over the coming weeks, I’m quite confident I can finally make some inroads on the longer 7s, and pretty syked for routes in general.Although I am not Portland's biggest fan, the routes on Battleship back cliff are great. Pump Hitler is worth doing, as is Jurassic Shift and I am advised Zinc Oxide Mountain is superb.
Didn't use the first rail on the 7A. Fell off Y Front as the start is just a bit techy on that roll over. Rf wasn't on proper foot hold and pushed hips out of position on first attempt.
Quote from: Smith42 on February 26, 2019, 01:26:52 pmDidn't use the first rail on the 7A. Fell off Y Front as the start is just a bit techy on that roll over. Rf wasn't on proper foot hold and pushed hips out of position on first attempt.I wouldn’t expect anything else of you. Got to keep them young wippersnapper overgraders in there place though. No room for easy ticks in the county.
Might be the fact that I am closing in on the end of my PhD, but for the first time ever I have no interest in climbing anymore
Quote from: AMorris on February 27, 2019, 01:32:24 pmMight be the fact that I am closing in on the end of my PhD, but for the first time ever I have no interest in climbing anymore Its a stressful and demanding - not to mention important - time. If you're not feeling the climbing right now I wouldn't worry about. It just gives you more space to complete the thesis.
GME, Do I know you from back in the Berghaus days?