[shark]

11.2-3 Average 157.1 down 0.8lbs on week before I went away

M. PM/Eve Travelling back from Albarracin

T.

W. Noon. Home warm up on FB. Did the hardest move on Oak2 first go and the hardest move on Oak3 on third go then repeated. Out to Gardoms. 8 degrees but a bit of breeze. Repeated goes on Marks Roof from standing. Felt tired. Felt like I made some micro progress. Fifth session though so time to move on. Impressed by a handy Grimer soundalike who flashed it along with Nigel’s Roof, Kidneystone and Soft on the G as well as ticking 8ball and the thing right of Kidneystone

Eve. Strength training class. Tired. Almost didn’t go but dragged my sorry arse down there. An ordeal

T. Took Tommy to Manchester Uni for an interview and checked in at BMC hq for a catch up

F.  Morning. Lovely day. Warm. Out to Tor with Steve Mac. Mike Lea dropped by. Intention was to tie in and go on Obscene Gesture but pretty much everything was wet and drippy except Bens Of course. Did some hangs. Felt strong. Then did THFML straight off. Felt easy. Then did kneebar rest to kick into pod and second kneebar rest straight off. Then started redpointing. Forgot my shorts so did it i my underpants. Almost got through kick move from start three times and then on the fourth time got it! Tips really hurting my this point. Got thru into THFML then suddenly faded on key lock. After tried to do laps on THFML to finish but so busted couldn’t do it once. Steve did Bens ten times although he dabbed on one of them Massively encouraging session especially after last week. Fairly certain this is the first time I’ve got thru to the kneebar rest four times in a session. Driving back it was like a balmy hazy summer afternoon. Nuts

S. PM/Eve Drive to Devon - Dad’s 80th

S. AM Assisted one armers and weighted deadhangs benchmarking session on an S7 campus rung in a barn. About 2.5kgs stronger on unstrict half crimps and drags compared to when I did it last 7 weeks ago. Best hangs +22.5kg for 8secs with half crimp and +25kg for 20secs dragging

Quite a few much-needed positives to take away this week after last week’s meltdown.

Had intended holding off going to Malham but weather is too good so will head up weds if I can find a partner. Not sure I’m ready for it just yet. Also got a new property project to tackle

[nai]

Week away in Wales:

M - Had a rough provisional plan to climb at either Dinbren or Pen Trwyn on Tuesday so headed to Tremerchion to try 36 Flags which I'd done all but the final match last summer. Reasoned it was in the middle and I could go either way from there.  Took my time warming up on Flag of Iron, final match was still proving tricky but eventually sussed the feet and got it, then did 36 straight away.  Cool, good start. As I left received a message, potential partner for tomorrow bailing. Balls, two hours of daylight left. The cave was closer but it was a lovely evening so gambled on the Pass. Was a bit cold and grey up there but dry. The biggest gap in my roadside ticklist is Cave Route but feeling like I'd be short of pads started trying **** KING LINE ALERT *****Chocolate Moose instead. Felt nails to start with, then did the 6C version then soon after linked the classic diagonal rail -> slopey pocket -> crozzly pocket ->ramp.  King of the King Lines, me.
.
T - woke up to rain in Nant Peris. Initial thought was Porth Ysgo but tide times we'ren't helpful so was resigned to plan Z, The Cave. Unfortunately it was a bit of a mess, the only things dry were Left Wall Traverse and Cave Right Hand. CRH is clearly log so set about warming up then trying sections of, then working links of LWT.  Couldn't do the start unfortunately so had to start at the shothole and even that felt like it was going to get away from me when I slipped off the match at the pillar twice, but got it third full attempt. Pretty pleased, that's 3 move and 23 (ish) move 7As back to back.

W - rest day

Th - All time classic Welsh weather.  Woke up next to Lllyn Ogwen to mint blue skies.
Headed up to Sheep Pen, bit of a false start not managing Klem's Arete but moved on to find his Bulge which I did about third attempt. Slightly disappointed as it clearly isn't the 7A the guide suggests. Tried the eliminate/original which is more like it. Both good problems though, proper basic burliness at an affordable grade.
Moved onto The Pinch, took a few attempts but once you work out the right footholds for you it's ok, a real classic pop.  Did a few 6B/C things mostly first or second go then did the link of Toe Dragon into Dog Shooter for a 3rd 7A+ of the day.  Great day, had walked up in thermals and down but ended up in a tee shirt and needing a sunhat.

Klem's Bulge original, unfortunately the only thing i filmed all week



Fri - woke up pre-dawn in Nant Peris and cursed my luck, wasn't getting back to sleep so decided I might as well get up and see if there was any wildlife about and as soon as I opened the van door was so glad I'd woken up as i saw the lovely light and epic sunrise up the pass, had a lovely peaceful walk but there was nothing out hunting.  Quite tired after Thursday so after a lengthy breakfast decided to check out Cwn Glas Bach.

Decided to warm up at roadside which proved it was going be hard going today.  A young lad turned up from Jerry's Roof and announced he was going to do The Edge problem as it was a right of passage, according to the guide, but that he usually only climbed "steep stuff" so wasn't very good using small holds. Was this it, he asked, pointing. Having spent a while reading the guide seeing out long dark nights in the van I was able to point to the high diagonal pocket and confirm that, yes, that was the hold mentioned by the guide so that was the line. He set about it but was struggling a bit, only making it to the pocket once.  He claimed he could probably "dyno" from the crimps in teh middle without using it but I assured him that was not the classic right of passage which he sought, it was merely covering the ground without actually doing the problem.  He didn't understand but his friend managed to confirm this to be correct. He tried another couple of times becoming increasingly frustrated before admitting defeat and slinking off.  Unfortunately this proved to be the highlight of my day, I climbed very badly and where there had been flow and footwork there was now just clunkiness.

I went to try a problem called The Hand Rails of Crib Goch but was making heavy weather of it and becoming quite frustrated myself. I'd worked out all the individual moves but hadn't done the second and couldn't link more than a couple, my skin was sore, there was no pull from my shoulders and my arse was sagging out.  Decided to try some of the easier stuff just by it but failed on 6C and 6B and when I couldn't get up the 5+ I knew I should probably call it a day.  After a rest mooching around looking at other boulders I came back and had a speculative pull on, made the crux second move (using a different foothold to setup it turned out) then fought and scraped through the rest.  Back to the van for coffee and flapjack and some serious decision making.  An hour later drove back up the pass for some reason and saw a team on Cave Route, couldn't resist giving it ago while there were pads under it but it turns out the traverse is piss, it only bumps the grade of the arete as you're then tired making the big move between the jugs.  Anyway, couldn't do that move so packed in and moved on again.  Came to the conclusion that there was no way I could climb on Saturday and with sunday forecast wet took the reluctant decision to bale

Sat rest

Sun - went to Wright's Rock, had never been and wanted to get somewhere beyond my normal day range.  Quite humid and drippy. so probably not the best call in the end. Tried Simple Simon Indirect but struggled on the middle move, tempted to play the morpho card but maybe it was me being a bit sub optimal. Struggled on Rainbow Ride so looked for beta and it's really quite easy once you know how. Tried the sloper problem on the right and nearly did it when a local showed me the way. I'd tried something similar earlier but didn't like slapping a slopey break with my foot upside down in a hole.  He also pointed out the undercut problem which I tried briefly and got closish but was blowing out of my arse by then. Final couple of attempts at the Sloper Problem to salvage the day but it wasn't to be.  Pretty sure I'd manage all three fresh and with better connies.

Decent Brilliant week, some unfinished business finished, new venues visited, classics ticked, five new species of bird sighted and a 2lb (or thereabouts) Perch landed.

[Will Hunt]

Tuesday. Depot. Warmed up and on the board. Didn't feel very good and wasn't flowing very nicely on the start of Mock. Bradders pointed out some new foot beta which kind of worked and kind of didn't but stuck with it. When I was first shown the problem it used Alien Head after the Throw To Horn which makes the top a path. Last week someone pointed out that the problem originally went to top pink crimp instead. Got through the Throw To Horn from the start and dithered deciding whether to try to go to top pink and fall off gallantly in the process. Decided against it and did the easy finish to much derision
Let's call that Austrian Crock. I shall try the proper version some other time.
Wasn't really feeling on good form so nipped back out to do new purples for the rest of the sesh. A little bit of circuit boarding at the end but felt shot to pieces.

Saturday. Had an offer of going to Eastby for Dead Babies and then somewhere else but opted to go to Scout instead. Not been before and the call of a full day at a new crag was too hard to resist after what seems like months of little sessions at the Glen and cliff. Arrived early and warmed up on some techy arete stuff and then this nice little out of the way buttress with loads of easy wall climbs. Really absorbing climbing. Felt like the best half hour of climbing I've had in months. So refreshing to forget grades and difficulty and just do sweet move after sweet move.
Moved on and did Scout Crack and Turtles Head Sitter, which took a few goes but was surprisingly decent using this weird "boob" sloper. More people arrived and I trekked over to Boggy's roof. Met Coops coming the other way
Did Boggy's and thought about 7A for that. Also did the left and right hand, the right hand being more like 7B. Really good gritty grinding. Came away with forearms cut to ribbons.
Back to the main crag and mooched for a bit. Did a couple of easy things and a tricky 6C+ traverse. Watched 36C try this fun looking traverse then went off to do a much lauded 6C arete which turned out to be the climb that took the most effort of the day! Many goes to figure it out. Was quite broken at this point with the thinnest skin imaginable. Shot the shit for a bit and trundled on home. Really great day out. Not had a good scrap with a moorland grit crag in a while. Got totally fucked up 

[tomtom]

Strong week Nai - and nearly well done Shark...
Don’t you have to do it twice in a row now to get the full 7B+ tick for Bens?

Busy work week for me.

Tu: Went to check out Crag ‘C’ that has recently been talked about. Turns out its (a) 45 min from Hull - officially the closest bit of climbable rock (b) a lovely spot. Well done Carl for the development etc.. Had a great couple of hours, managed Glued on 7A with a nice static hips in reach up teeter move, then Shield RH 7A+ after a bit of a fight. Powered out on the pinch (7B+) but came desperately close to getting the Shield regular via a couple of different methods... next time. Apparently (according to Carl) people have been parking by the Church (which they shouldn’t) instead of 2 min walk down to the main road. Please don’t folks.

Fri: Burbage South. I always get intimidated / a bit lost when I go to south. Despite being lovely and warm up top it was nice and cold in the shade over the edge... I wanted to have a go on the Rib and explore some other parts - and started at the Rib - but it was a teeny bit condensed (wasn’t in the wind as much as other parts) so brushed it off and looked for other inspiration - that I didn’t find. So crack knuckles - and start warming up on the 7B+ then... typical. By then I was not doing very well - and in a filthy mood. I apologise to the chap with the spaniel ish dog who came up to try the problem that I probably looked really pissed off an gave off don’t come here vibes... Anyway - I good over my grump a bit - and then half arsed showing him how do some of the moves (I couldn’t do) I did really well...

Anyway. To make a long story short. I spent two hours on the problem and got much further than before. Final attempt got to holding the high arête hold with my left and started trying to move my RF onto the high smear before the dead point... so really really good progress (for session 2). Decided to call it a day as my right index finger was nearly split. Went to check out Pebble Mill (never done it) which looked like it was Uber knacky.

Sa: had to drive to Hull to help out at an open day. And drive back again. When it looked gorgeous outside.

Su: Having not had the chance to do any family stuff on Sa - felt compelled to do that instead of go climbing... steam railway fun with the boy etc... got back at 3:30 - so my (possible) window for a late afternoon session had shrunk. Went to the Depot about 6pm and moving about on plastic blobs blew away my funk.

A REALLY good week tbh. New 7A and 7A+ In a session - nearly a 7B and the Rib feels like its going to go... Heal skin heal. Heal skin heal and I can get out again before it gets too warm!

[Duma]

Goals: Uninjured, 70kg, 8A in UK, Rocklands in June.

M - TCA, aero cap 3 x 5:3. Then TRX and a core session from crimpd app - hardly completed any of it and was miles off several of the exercises. Really shocked how bad I was at this, my core is appalling, def need to do more. 40 PU.

T -  TCA, half arsed bouldering but feeling bit burnt out. Managed OK max hangs sesh, then forced myself to do some more core stuff despite abs fucked from yesterday. 40 PU.

W - rest, core fucked. 40 PU.

T - core still knackered but last chance to get anything done before half term so headed to Huntsham before work. Thick fog on way didn't bode well but it burnt off OK and was decent enough nick. Sadly I was terrible, struggled on the warm ups and predictably no progress on Hunters Roof. Did manage from rh on the lip but matching the undercut in the roof and then going to the lip feels a million miles away. I live in hope that if I can sort out my terrible core, and spend a lot of time training undercuts, this would enter the realms of possibility... 40 PU.

F - 20 PU, 20 SU

S - 20 PU, 20 SU

S - 40 PU, 20 SU

Av 70.5 kg

Pretty crap week, feeling knackered and not getting much done, and chastening experience at Huntsham on Thursday. Now in Cornwall at my folks for half term so rest week, however given my discovery on Monday of the state of my core will try and fit some sit ups etc in.

[gollum]

 M - Push day. Bench for doubles, decline, incline etc. Triceps and shoulders followed by TRX. Running at lunchtime.
Strength Intervals in the evening. Struggling a bit. Strength off, core off and timing off. Tended to get the problem by third interval on each of the five. Felt tough.
Campus movies 1-3-5-7 x 3 x 6. Felt like a battle all the way. Should find this pretty easy but didn’t tonight.

T - Pull day. Rack pulls up to 150 but fail on 160 which was a surprise but do seem to have a minor tweak in back at top pf the movement, so taking out steady enough. Followed by rows, face pulls and pull ups. More solid on later exercises.
Running was hill work which felt really good and solid.
Evening at the Depot. Intervals for power which felt pretty good and a big improvement on last night. Did some 1on 2 off intervals which worked well. Finally tried a few of the new purples which felt nails hard......plenty to go at in the next few weeks.

W - Max Hangs 100%. One arm less 4k for 10 seconds 8 reps. Not done this for a while, but felt okay.

T - Push day again. Bench 10@60, 8@70, 6@75, 4@98, 2@90. Taxing session but all well within range. Decline, incline and TRX followed by triceps and shoulders. All followed by 30 minutes with Physio. Shoulder making some good progress but still a good way off being right.
Went to Depot with friends just to have a laugh. Made some good progress on the purples, several flashes, a couple of tumbles from the top, a real tech thing which took a fair few goes and reckon I can do the thing on the comp wall that I previously couldn’t do a move on and now have done in two halves. Finished off with circuits............... most importantly had a great time.

F - Car troubles which changed my plans completely and meant I took a day’s leave, so went toe Manchester Depot to get a score in the Winter League. Did okay, but not great. Reckon if I went more than once a month may get up a couple more problems but stick to my broad two goes and your out rule, unless I’m really close and then will keep trying. All done in about an hour.
Finished off with 5 on 3off for 3 sets on circuit board. Never managed this on a circuit board before and always had to resort to autobelays. Didn’t feel easy but wasn’t a real battle either.

S - Leeds Depot for fun. Have to be out of the house as we have an open day as we are trying to sell it. Seems like a pretty good excuse to go and do some random bouldering.
Started off with a quick set on Campus Board to warm up, followed by some testing hangs to measure progress. Pretty solid on BM2K central hold with 2k added, which is progress I reckon. Went on to get stuck into more of the purples. Ticked a few more that I had worked, flashed a couple and made some progress on others, although one through the back roof seems very improbable....may see if I can find a way to catch it unawares.

S - Big run with lots of hills with Mrs B in the morning, including three laps of Scammonden steps which made the legs burn a touch.
Max Hangs in the afternoon. 94% was pretty steady, 97% tough on reps 5 and 6 but felt locked in on 7 and 8.

A week with not so much lifting as work and life got in the way, but did get to do lots of climbing and it got progressively more positive as the week went by. The week ahead should be pretty good as try to get all my training in by Friday when I head to Tignes to ride my board for a week.

[Bradders]

a much lauded 6C arete

Flying Arete yes? It's brilliant isn't it, all-time classic.

[Murph]

Morning chaps. Some strong weeks going on there good stuff.

M-
T-hour at the works. Finally got the last of the yellow circuit (5-6A). Fingerboard session up to +32kg for 6 seconds on the BM smalls.
W-foundry session, first time in 10 years. Finally achieved something that would have been impossible in my previous life and clipped the highest up chains. It’s only 6a+ but in the old days I used to think that climbing on that wall was something other people did.
T-works. Ticked the whole yellow circuit. Not so bad.
F-visited Rabbit Warren and Hartland edge. Lovely venues with some quality low grade problems.
S-anston. Didn’t tick much. For some reason found the top moves of blind bat (which is supposedly 6A+) to be the crux of the 7A+ sit. My mate could just reach a decent hold that was too far for me but there must be other options.
S-trackside lap as the sun went down. Fingerboard up to +32kg on the small and the medium holds for the full 10 seconds. Boom. 2019 breakthrough session.

Just stepped on the scales. 69.x - a full stone over ideal. Whoops!

[nai]

S-anston. Didn’t tick much. For some reason found the top moves of blind bat (which is supposedly 6A+) to be the crux of the 7A+ sit. My mate could just reach a decent hold that was too far for me but there must be other options.

I struggled with that for a while too, think the key was not going left onto the better holds after the initial reach. We're similar size so this might work for you

[Murph]

Thanks Nai - I should always look for your beta videos before heading out!

Also...I never noticed that intermediate RH after the start. In fact your sequence is totally different to what I was trying (shuffling left then yarding up to the two finger mono). Cheers!

[tomtom]

Thanks Nai - I should always look for your beta videos before heading out!

Also...I never noticed that intermediate RH after the start. In fact your sequence is totally different to what I was trying (shuffling left then yarding up to the two finger mono). Cheers!

Another sequence... getting LF in little hold for move up from the break was important for me.



Anston focus this week. Makes a welcome change from the Depot board :D

[Coops_13]

82.3kg -> 81.6kg

M:

T: Arch. Poor session, feeling weak and heavy. Probably not recovered from the weekend so left after an hour

W:

T: Arch. Good session. Climbed a few more boulders on the new main overhang set including first go ascent of a 5 - 7 I tried twice yesterday. Moved on to moonboard due to the recent psyche on here. Managed to flash benchmark 7A+ then get close on some more. Finished with some easier benchmarks and some knee physio

F: Some light squats and romanian deadlifts at physio

S: Scout Crag. Went over to Boggy's Roof and did it quite quickly, probably 7A+ for someone of my height. A a quick go on the RH but would require more skin than I was willing to lose. Went back to main crag and pottered a bit before heading to Widdop.
Widdop. Spent a while going round and doing a load of really nice 6s including Pool Traverse. Bailed on Fight on Black due to tweaky finger. Went up to top and did Flake Charmer 7A 3rd go, really nice top move after a stiff start.

S: Earl Crag. Insanely hungover from a night in Skipton but this was just above our Airbnb. No idea why I've never been here, this place is amazing. Tried Desert Island Arete but kept coming off on the rock up. Did Grape Nut from the block 7A, managed to power my way past the horrid gaston. Tried a couple of other things but skin was thin so left for the long drive home.

Vid of Boggy's and Grape Nut below:

[Will Hunt]

a much lauded 6C arete

Flying Arete yes? It's brilliant isn't it, all-time classic.

That's the one.

Power Club truly works in mysterious ways 

managed to power my way past the horrid gaston.

He claimed he could probably "dyno" from the crimps in teh middle without using it but I assured him that was not the classic right of passage which he sought, it was merely covering the ground without actually doing the problem.  He didn't understand but his friend managed to confirm this to be correct.

Fair play though, Coops. Never seen Grape Nut done like that.

[Murph]

Tom - I am a foot shorter than you. There is no chance your beta can help here! It merely covers the ground without actually doing the problem

[Coops_13]

Tom - I am a foot shorter than you. There is no chance your beta can help here! It merely covers the ground without actually doing the problem

[shark]

Great week nai.

Particularly impressed you drspatched the Pinch quickly. Paul’s been up there twice at least and not ticked it. Blames the sun being on it but sounds like you did it on a bright day.

[nai]

It was very bright, sun full on it but probably only 12 degrees, fairly good conditions.  There's two footholds for the right foot and about four for the left, it's a matter of working out which works for you.  There were four other folk there on the day and I think we all used different combinations.

[jwi]

Maybe I should try this to keep me on the straight and narrow through the most problematic season (the pollen season, sniff...)

STG: Osmose, 8b
MTG: No War, 8b or other suitable route if Super Manjoc stays wet and I cannot find parters etc...
LTG: Troutherapie or other route of that calibre in good style.

This was supposed to be an easy week. But the weather was finally good and I had very light work load...

Tue 12 feb   
7a rp   
8a+ attempt (2013) fell just after belay of 7c+ pitch   
8a+ rp. yay! Did not have a clue what to do on the last 15 m so it took out a lot of me   
   
Wed 13 feb   
fingerboard   
20 mm edge 40s hang x 2 with 5 min rest between   
   
Thu 14 feb   
7a   
8b (Osmos, 8b/+, 18m) hd   
8b rp attempt + hd   
8b hd   
   
Sat 16 feb   
7a   
8b hd/   
8b attempt x4   
   
sun 17 feb   
mid-day>    
pullups, pushups, dips and v-ups. Yeezus I'm weak on pullups.
Fingerboard   
less 14kg x 10s both hands   
9kg x 10s left   11kg x 10s right
9kg x 10s left   11kg x 10s right
8kg x 10s lh   10 kg x 7s rh
eve>    
bouldering in gym, reasonably ok   
New 14 mv boulder (55s): 3 times with 4min rest between. Fell on top bit last try   
Rested 8min and did it once, tried 2 times more (4min rest) but fell pretty low both times   

[cheque]

Rehab Diaries Week Twenty-six: six months since I started climbing again edition!

STG- Leading HVS/ low 6s & carrying normal loads to the crag by end of September.

M- Stanage Popular. Soloed two DIffs, one of which I hadn't done before. So good to get out in the evening.

T- Fingerboard repeaters & pushups. 11th week running of this. Up to 35 pushups per set  now. 

W- Rest.

T- Burbage North. Soloed two Hard Diffs, neither of which I'd done before.

F- Rest.

S- Walk up Bleaklow from Glossop. Checked out crags I want to climb at when the weather improves as soon as possible. Wicked day. Carried some camera gear, back barely hurt at the end of the day . Missed what would have surely been an absolutely terrible road accident with an idiot overtaking four cars at high speed on the Snake Pass by fractions of a second on the way back.   

S- AM: Gym. Usual stuff, increased deadlift by 5kg to 65kg. PM:Walk along Burbage North taking photos.

Cool week. Fingers were tweaky at the end of last week so decided not to go to the climbing wall this week. As it happened the weather and light combined to allow some after-work soloing instead. Feels a bit mad to solo but very fun and my fingers feel fine again.

Six months since I started climbing again and I've come massively far in that time. In the last week or so I really feel like I've regained an important level of "oomph" in my left leg and I feel like my winter plan to focus on rehab and training has paid off better than I hoped- I look and feel strong again and in some ways I'm in better shape than I was this time last year!

[shark]

Good to see what you get up to jwi

hd = hangdog?

[Fiend]

Which bit of the Snake was that one Cheque??

[jwi]

Good to see what you get up to jwi

hd = hangdog?

yes. Sorry for all the shorthand, cut and paste from my diary.

[monkoffunk]

STG - Climb Fighting Torque.
Weight ~75kg.
MTG - Plan Spring Font trip
LTG - 7C

M - Missed flight back from Amsterdam, delayed a few hours. Pre nights again. Rest.
T - Pre night session. Not fully recovered I think. Comp boulders for just over and hour, longer than planned. PE circuit on board, 4 laps felt super hard today, incomplete. Traversing after that, also felt really hard.
W -  Post nights. Rest, mostly sleep.
T - Not totally recovered. Attempted to work some weaknesses, vert techy, awkward problems. Short board session doing moves and reasonable link on hardish project. Traversing, few laps up to reasonably painful pump.
F - Rest, double rest day needed. Weight something around 79kg apparently.
S - Rest
S - Red spider. Few new comp problems. Nothing very hard, maybe more like active recovery, quite long session though. 77.3kg

Good week, felt like hard work. Will be more gentle this week, snappy recruitment on Tuesday, mostly rest and recovery, with as limited calorie intake as that will allow. Another shot at Fighting Torque Thursday.

[spidermonkey09]

Sounds like a pretty good week for most thus far. Amazing what a bit of sun does.

Coops; that beta on Grape Nut is madness. So much for the technical smearing I was doing...

M -  rest. Pint in the evening.

T - Depot. Brother visiting so showed him the ropes a bit. Really hot in the wall and felt dreadful on both board and circuits. Could no longer do Mock!  Gave it up as a bad job and went home.

W -  rest.

T - Depot. Much better. Some good volume on the board and some circuits to finish. Starting to feel a bit fitter.

F - rest. Few drinks in the evening.

S - Malham. Glorious day in the sunshine. Back on Bat Route and made good progress on the boulder problem, did a good link from the start of the hard climbing to the last undercut and then from halfway through to the jugs. Tried a few send kneepads and the kneebar felt a million times better. Worked the next section up to the hole with beta from Al; started to work the moves out on this but couldn't do the last bit to the hole. Blown away by how good the climbing is up there, can't wait to get back next weekend. So much for trying not to get psyched.

S - Afternoon at Stanage. Baltic in the wind, did a nice HVS. Good to be out on the grit again.

Feeling very motivated for a campaign now, although one poor session will ruin that no doubt! 4 weeks until a trip to St Leger so need to keep working on fitness. Hopefully a week there will mean I come back relatively fit and can start making some good links.

[yetix]

M: Rockover, flashed the majority of the comp problems during my warm up. Moonboard, 4 more benchmarks (1x7A, 3x6C+) Bench Press 3x8 @60kg, Shoulder press 3x8 @35kg, Weighted pull ups 3x8 @25kg, LSit Pull ups 3x8
T: Rest
W: Parisellas cave, RA, best goes were from the 2 pockets to the end comfortably and from the start to the slot. Was almost certainly fatigued from the last 5 weeks of a higher intensity and I'm feeling close, intensity should drop a little in a week or so. Psyched.  Flashed RWT at the end, probably should clear up ticking a few things on the right side really as I've not looked at much there.
T: Rest
F: Max hangs then got on the Moonboard and got 5 more benchmarks (1x7A, 1x6C+, 3x6C). Bench Press 3x8 @60kg, Shoulder press 3x8 @35kg, Weighted pull ups 3x8 @25kg, LSit Pull ups 3x8
S: Spectated at Plywood masters.
S: Planned to try some of the problems from the Youth Selection comp at Rockover but it was painfully busy so had a quick session on the Moonboard, 4 more benchmarks (2x7A+, 1x7A, 1x6C+)