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Dartmoor: pick me a problem
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Dartmoor: pick me a problem
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Herbert
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Posts: 50
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Dartmoor: pick me a problem
February 16, 2019, 10:38:41 am
Heading to the moor for the day on Monday. It’s been a while so very excited
! The Wave (tried before over 10yrs ago), Famous Grouse or Easdon aręte are all on my wish list. Any thoughts on which one is ‘easiest’ please? The grades all seem similar, all get solid 3* reviews and beta abounds online, but it could be a while before my next trip so I’d like to stack the odds in my favour...
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macca7
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#1 Re: Dartmoor: pick me a problem
February 16, 2019, 11:09:49 am
Hello
Three cracking problems there!
Most popular is probably the wave which is also the most straight forward not easy but fairly basic. Steep moves on small holds then a highish finish on good holds.
Famous grouse probably gets the least ascents. Highish on small holds and not great feet but easily accessible. It's the one of the three I've not done if that means anything!
Easdon arete for me is probably the best climbing very technical and feels impossible until it clicks then you can do it every go! But can be very time consuming to get to that point!
Not sure that answers your question but hopefully gives you some food for thought. It's also a bit damp here today but all three should be fairly quick drying!
Enjoy
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Herbert
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#2 Re: Dartmoor: pick me a problem
February 16, 2019, 01:35:12 pm
Thanks you! just what I was after. Sounds like the wave is my best bet.
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BrutusTheBear
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Certified socialist talking head of this world.
#3 Re: Dartmoor: pick me a problem
February 16, 2019, 02:06:03 pm
The wave is notoriously hard for the grade and the other two are notoriously tricky. They’re all very good though. Some find ‘the wave left hand’ easier than the wave, I guess if you get shut down you could try that instead. The ‘monkey paw’ hold on the wave bites not one for a siege.
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Ged
junky
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#4 Re: Dartmoor: pick me a problem
February 16, 2019, 08:11:25 pm
I'd go to easdon. The crack is an excellent warm up and the arete is one of the best.
The wave is OK, a bit nacky, and quite good at tearing your skin if you keep messing it up, or it's warm, which it will be.
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Duma
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#5 Re: Dartmoor: pick me a problem
February 17, 2019, 08:41:07 am
The wave is the worst, most accessible, and most popular.
Easdon is probably the best imo. FG was def the easiest for me, tho might feel a bit wiggy if you're on your own.
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shurt
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#6 Re: Dartmoor: pick me a problem
February 17, 2019, 12:09:19 pm
I've only done The Wave, got close on Easdon Arete and totally shut down on Famous Grouse!! I guess its a bit horses for courses. FG you need to be good at minging crimps with shit feet for the crux as far as I could work out and as Duma said it's a bit necky on your own. But then the Wave is high but low crux (feels hard until you've done it) and another thought provoking long move high up.
I think whatever you decide to try and as bad as this may sound, watch some videos if you are desperate for success and are not happy to get involved in trying to work out the beta on the day. A lot of Dartmoor problems are a lot easier when you know the knack. When a local walks up and says 'try putting your foot on that crystal and reach up with that hand' you often do the move first time.
Me and some friends tried EA for a while and one of the methods we were trying seemed really obscure and we dismissed it but after some time on YouTube when I got home it seemed to be one of the most popular ways. Typical!!!
Either way they are all super classic problems. Dartmoor is a great place for 3 star V7s / 7a+. Have good day tomorrow.
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macca7
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#7 Re: Dartmoor: pick me a problem
February 18, 2019, 10:48:57 pm
So how did it go?
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Herbert
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#8 Re: Dartmoor: pick me a problem
February 19, 2019, 07:25:10 am
I had a great day, thanks for the tips everyone! None of my personal 'big three' ticked, but some progress. I went to Easdon in the end, what a lovely spot. Classic Dartmoor: I sat under a boulder in the rain and sulked. Then it stopped, the sun came out and everything dried out. I got stuck into Easdon arete (slapping for the ball) then I... sliced a tip open after 20 mins. After more sulking I applied several yards of tape and headed to Bell Tor (via suspension flake). Dithered on the crimps on Famous Grouse, but far too lily livered to commit by myself (even without tapey tips). It looks great though, perhaps the one that suits me best. I love the Moor, it had been far too long.
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Ged
junky
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#9 Re: Dartmoor: pick me a problem
February 19, 2019, 05:12:35 pm
Glad you had a good one.
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macca7
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Posts: 156
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#10 Re: Dartmoor: pick me a problem
February 19, 2019, 06:12:04 pm
Glad you had a good day and managed to get on some granite!
It's an absolute shredder if you've had too much time away. I tried to climb in the woods on Saturday after a two week layoff and my tips were screaming!
Hope you manage to get back on them soon.
Cheers
Macca
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tomrainbow
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#11 Re: Dartmoor: pick me a problem
February 19, 2019, 10:36:04 pm
Too much jerk chicken mate!
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macca7
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#12 Re: Dartmoor: pick me a problem
February 20, 2019, 08:34:24 am
Not enough!
Time underwater is not good for Dartmoor crimps!
Hope to see you soon fella!
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tomrainbow
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#13 Re: Dartmoor: pick me a problem
February 20, 2019, 08:54:23 am
Maybe wear Marigolds next time?
You about in the next couple of afternoons (ie Thursday or Friday)?
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