[user deactivated]

Ah sorry you’re right. e2 6b it is or h3 in Franco-coin or just a wonderful world of fairy dust, hobbits and pixies all listening to van MorrisoN 

[Fiend]

Did you clean off the E4 arete (Don Juan or something) while you were there?? I expect despite being much easier and almost as good a line, it doesn't get nearly as much attention from the baggers and tickers and accumulaters?

[Johnny Brown]

It's never seen E6. Felt E4/ soft E5 to me, onsight without cleaning on a hot humid day in July. Who are these 'very good' climbers?

[user deactivated]

I don’t know who they are? Not me that’s for sure. Maybe u and mark. you guys have history of good form. e3 6b seemed pretty fair given the excellent conditions and tied off pegs. Certainly easier than King Kong on a sweaty day. It did bring to light the amazing difference between onsight climbing and having prior knowledge as we go into the summer. And also that e3 or whatever we call it is actually quite a high standard to o/s

[Johnny Brown]

I don't think 'E3' is but E4 6b certainly can be.

[user deactivated]

Barry Gibb on Radio Hate

https://thelifetimeesotericticklist.wordpress.com/2019/04/19/radio-hate/

[user deactivated]

While taking a break from Joe Rogans latest insightful podcast, I switched to Jack Johnson on my Spotify account and thought about all the things he sang about. Really truly emotional. Like Justin Bieber on acid on acid on acid.


https://thelifetimeesotericticklist.wordpress.com/2019/04/20/anti-anti-folk/

[user deactivated]

Matt said I was finding my own way home if I toproped it, and anyway he wouldn’t belay me. It was still a circus if I tried it on his preplaced gear, and ‘probably about e5 this way.’ He messaged Andy in America for the FA details and got a reply. I made a fair effort or so I thought, then slumped on the rope and thought about ‘the eniGma’.

https://thelifetimeesotericticklist.wordpress.com/2019/04/29/time-is-serious/

[dunnyg]

What route is this? I;m not cool enough to know

[user deactivated]

Ah sorry man, it’s one chromosome is missing at Harston rocks. Please, there’s definitely no cool going on here. 😂

[dunnyg]

Looks boss. Good effort

[andy popp]

He messaged Andy in America for the FA details and got a reply.

It tickled me to be sat in my living room in Pennsylvania relaying beta direct to Fiend at Harstons (by the way, I did the 2nd ascent, FA was Nick Dixon).

[Johnny Brown]

Props to Fiend. The Enigma is mostly fell-running nowadays...

[user deactivated]

Yes it was quite surreal Andy, I had a warm glow when Matt said ‘Andy says hi’.
Never mind props to Fiend. The eniGma never existed. We all go that way in the end.

[Fiend]

It's worth noting that despite putting his money/sliders where his mouth in by encouraging some "grey area" climbing style, Fiend is a bloody disgrace. Having relished the adventure of the exploratory climbing experience by spending more time on social media than actually climbing (admittedly chatting to Andy was the second highlight of the day after the lovely wriggly greeting that Pippin gave me at Chez Cheetham - Fiend seems distinctly better at dog cuddles than climbing), he proceeded to spend about an hour on DNA moaning about it being too sweaty and pumpy, before getting midway into the crux next to bomber gear and choosing to give in to the discomfort and doubt and let go, rather than fully attempting the move. Thence throwing the guidebook down the hill (with some justification, whoever wrong "gear doesn't inspire confidence" needs to be banned from writing anything about climbing ever again), and then forgetting it (free copy if anyone goes back), and sulking for the whole evening - before eating too late, going to bed still in a sulk and having a prolonged indigestion / queasiness bout that necessitated retreating to the sofa with plenty of early hours time to further worry about DNA before passing out "some time" after 3:30am. Oh and having tweaked his forearm doing a stupid pinkie mono move on an E1 5c warm-up that he had to escape off due to lichen anyway.

Grips need to be got.

[user deactivated]

Halcyon Days huh man.....

[SA Chris]

Thence throwing the guidebook down the hill (with some justification, whoever wrong "gear doesn't inspire confidence" needs to be banned from writing anything about climbing ever again), and then forgetting it (free copy if anyone goes back), and sulking for the whole evening

Plus ca change..

[Fiend]

Yeah being emotionally involved in climbing, and sometimes having negative emotions when it / I goes wrong, and not being particularly proud of that fact either.....is still the case.

That might not be the most interesting (I use that word very loosely) aspect of me writing about it tho.

[Fiend]

Dan.....thanks for coming out tho. Apart from my performance, it's been great, the exploration and chat is appreciated.

[user deactivated]

Of course Matt! A real pleasure to get out. Good psyche, good fun and intense emotions at times, it truly is halcyon days 👊

[user deactivated]

Forgive me for I have sinned, I held gritstone during several spots of rain on Sunday afternoon. I have disrespected the rock!

https://thelifetimeesotericticklist.wordpress.com/2019/05/06/ufck-united-flow-based-climbing-kranks/

[Will Hunt]

I liked this one a lot.

[tomtom]

Sometimes what you say is interesting Dan.

This wasnt.

[user deactivated]

Thanks Will, I’m just getting a feel for UFCK’s target audience Tomtom, how about an article on arse scraping lowballs or how to GET your first 7a+ The means tested guide for Achieving your LimiTs. Maybe Barrows could write a seminal essay?

[monkoffunk]

I think I’m leaning on the TT side of this, obv you can write what you want no bother, but I think people maybe engage more with the self effacing style of parody over the taking the piss out of people just trying to do something fun in a mostly harmless manner. Not that we are all above parody by any means, but yeah maybe given some of the other stuff you have said the blunt ‘macroaggressions’ fall a little flat.

But each to their own, I’m sure some will get a kick, more power to you!