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Esoteric ‘backwater’ lifetime grit tick list (Read 34828 times)

mark20

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This forum feels like an outlet for people who don’t like cliffs or climbers some days.  :shrug:
:lol:
Next ukb T-shirt?

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That sounds like a fantastic idea Andy, will definitely take a look. My only concern is that cleaning the lichen may contravene the ‘third law of robotics’ as devised here.

Mike it’s important to explore ones shadow self (in the jungian sense) here through copious ammounts of negativity aimed wildly at otherwise seemingly untouchable random subsets of climbers and climbing.

webbo

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Almscliff is one of the best crags on grit, it just doesn't suffer fools.

What does that mean JB? Can’t see what the climbing difficulty has to do with the general vibe of the place and not liking it. Over populated cow pat strewn wind tunnel it is 😉. Mass delusion propagated by hysterical Yorkshiremen and new wave sniffy hipsters.
Hysterical Yorkshiremen. Have you heard yourself, you sound like the fool JB’s referring too.

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Like in the Mr T sense? Have you heard yourself? Referring to*.... too

reeve

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I may actually have come up with a good suggestion - "Over the Moors" (E5 6b) at the Ravenstones. Looks like a blank grit slab - which it is - that just happens to have a perfect gear slot right where you want it, very unusual. Lovely place, other good routes to do and likely to be quiet. Only downside is that the route is also likely to be green after winter.

I didn't realise we were still allowed to make suggestions, but since you've bucked the trend with a moorland suggestion, how about The Ledge Shufflers at Kinder Downfall. It might be a bit busy with walkers over the top of the crag, but it's a cracking route, safe enough with cams 4, 5, and 6, plus RPs, some guile needed to keep it safe at the start (don't worry, I don't mean >2 pads), unlikely to be any other climbers at the crag, great moves, spectacular location. Actually one of my favourite grit experiences.

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Cheers Reeve! I was up on kinder on New Year’s Day with the little one on my back. It reminded me I’d like to get up there climbing at some point, and like mark20 mentioned shinning clough also. I’ve never done saucius digitalis which looks mega.

On the point of Almscliff mass hysteria (which isn’t entirely serious webbo) the phenomenon reminds me of the ‘Liverpool Leprechaun Hunt of 1964’ but instead of a mass of adults and school children hunting for little fellas with pots of gold, there’s a mass of simean postured, cross eyed jobsters in bright and fluorescent garb searching for metaphorical pots of gold under sanctified lumps of overhanging brown stuff. The only component shamefully missing being ‘a man with bushy eyebrows drinking piss weak ale’

http://www.strangehistory.net/2012/05/14/the-leprechauns-of-liverpool-and-the-bowling-green-from-hell/

spidermonkey09

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Cheers Reeve! I was up on kinder on New Year’s Day with the little one on my back. It reminded me I’d like to get up there climbing at some point, and like mark20 mentioned shinning clough also. I’ve never done saucius digitalis which looks mega.

On the point of Almscliff mass hysteria (which isn’t entirely serious webbo) the phenomenon reminds me of the ‘Liverpool Leprechaun Hunt of 1964’ but instead of a mass of adults and school children hunting for little fellas with pots of gold, there’s a mass of simean postured, cross eyed jobsters in bright and fluorescent garb searching for metaphorical pots of gold under sanctified lumps of overhanging brown stuff. The only component shamefully missing being ‘a man with bushy eyebrows drinking piss weak ale’

http://www.strangehistory.net/2012/05/14/the-leprechauns-of-liverpool-and-the-bowling-green-from-hell/

So actually your main problem with the crag is that its popular. If that isn't new wave sniffy hipster, I don't know what is...

tomtom

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Cheers Reeve! I was up on kinder on New Year’s Day with the little one on my back. It reminded me I’d like to get up there climbing at some point, and like mark20 mentioned shinning clough also. I’ve never done saucius digitalis which looks mega.

On the point of Almscliff mass hysteria (which isn’t entirely serious webbo) the phenomenon reminds me of the ‘Liverpool Leprechaun Hunt of 1964’ but instead of a mass of adults and school children hunting for little fellas with pots of gold, there’s a mass of simean postured, cross eyed jobsters in bright and fluorescent garb searching for metaphorical pots of gold under sanctified lumps of overhanging brown stuff. The only component shamefully missing being ‘a man with bushy eyebrows drinking piss weak ale’

http://www.strangehistory.net/2012/05/14/the-leprechauns-of-liverpool-and-the-bowling-green-from-hell/

So actually your main problem with the crag is that its popular. If that isn't new wave sniffy hipster, I don't know what is...

My experience of Almscliff from a chuffing point of view is that its only every busy on sunny summer/spring/autumn evenings.. If you go during decent grit connies the bouldering may have a few people out and about, but theres rarely anyone on the routes....

Fiend

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I've done routes in decent grit connies there....



....and was moaning about the crag before it became cool:

Quote
Prior to this and prior to 2015 appearing out of nowhere, I did actually get down to the grit grit, including amongst other places Almscliff, the most overrated crag in Yorkshire that people only go to because it's the quickest drying crag in the entire UK. I have a love/hate relationship with it: Some of the routes and problems are pretty cool, but the relentless hordes and unforgivable sin of giving the distinctly medicore arbitrary link-up semi-route Great Western 3 stars leave a disinterested taste in my maw. I also seem to end up there in slightly iffy weather due to having been drizzled off elsewhere, thus making the bouldering feel even grimmer than usual. On the other hand this was not the case the other week, when the weather was truly magnificent and the inspiration to rattle off a few short and thuggy routes was high. I didn't do anything that hard (Whisky Wall turning out to be a steady E2 with bomber gear without the spurious side-runners, but fun and unusually positive pocket-pulling), but I did get cranking pretty readily despite having a week off with a tweaky shoulder over Christmas.

 :off: :off: :off: etc etc.



Back on topic I might start throwing in some at my lowly level. The Phantom @ Gradbach Hill, for starters.

andy popp

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mark20 mentioned shinning clough also. I’ve never done saucius digitalis which looks mega.

Saucius is great (and didn't need cleaning when I did it), as is the whole of Shining Clough. Bloodrush is incredible but doesn't really fit your original criteria. On Kinder T'Big Surrey is really good but again is bold-ish rather than bouldery.

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Cheers Reeve! I was up on kinder on New Year’s Day with the little one on my back. It reminded me I’d like to get up there climbing at some point, and like mark20 mentioned shinning clough also. I’ve never done saucius digitalis which looks mega.

On the point of Almscliff mass hysteria (which isn’t entirely serious webbo) the phenomenon reminds me of the ‘Liverpool Leprechaun Hunt of 1964’ but instead of a mass of adults and school children hunting for little fellas with pots of gold, there’s a mass of simean postured, cross eyed jobsters in bright and fluorescent garb searching for metaphorical pots of gold under sanctified lumps of overhanging brown stuff. The only component shamefully missing being ‘a man with bushy eyebrows drinking piss weak ale’

http://www.strangehistory.net/2012/05/14/the-leprechauns-of-liverpool-and-the-bowling-green-from-hell/

So actually your main problem with the crag is that its popular. If that isn't new wave sniffy hipster, I don't know what is...

Nah, I really can’t stand the place. The hipsters and jobsters just make it worse

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I think Mark20 mentioned bloodrush or was that the direct finish to Great Wall? Looks mega again... been meaning to try saucius after having a day up there in the late 90’s. Got seriously midged off.

mark20

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Cover me in Chocolate is the direct finish to Great Wall. Big, but safe enough fall. Wouldn't want to fall off Bloodrush! Great Wall also a mega route and well protected. 
Neil rated the bouldery 'Puzzle Weasel' route to the right but I just remember it being quite reachy/hard, though it would fit your short and safe criteria.

mark20

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I have just thought of another having scrolled through the gritlist - The Beast of Bauston, along the track from Black Rocks. Break to break mantels, lanks and a dyno, with bomber cams. I've not done it, but would be keen to try it.

Northern Comfort at the Roaches?

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Aye I’ve always looked up at northern comfort. Wondered if it was just for lanksters

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Yorick’s crack at running hill pits 😬

mrjonathanr

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Great Wall also a mega route and well protected. 


Top wall looks coated in white guano from ground - is it okay to do then? Quite fancied it till saw that...

mark20

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I seem to remember that bit isn't too hard, but a bird often nests in the cave towards the top (hence the muck). Big cams 3.5/4ish useful for the belay

Dan, have you ever looked at those routes on the right of the 2nd quarry at Running Hill Pits? "Liquor, Loose Women.." E5 6c and "Breakin' for a Bogey" E6 6c, off vertical walls with cruxes past pegs. Look good but will need de-greening

mrjonathanr

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Cheers.

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Hi Mark, not been to running hill pits in years. I hear the spanner has gone these days? Will definitely check out those routes as planning to go up there pretty soon. Although apparently the grit season is over for the year 😢

SA Chris

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Flame Arete at Hawkcliffe is very good. You're likely to be the only people at the crag. It's very safe and bouldery. There's other good stuff in similar style at the crag and there's some very bold routes that you could do a quick headpoint of too.

I went for a look once after removing all skin at Earl. The routes all looked amazing, but green and damp - possibly a small window when they are in condition? Late spring?

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A long vid of a short route! Yorick’s crack. Climbed after abseil inspection (just in case I need to explain myself 😉) I’d probably agree more with the original grade of e6 as opposed to the bmc guide grade of e5. A country mile harder than Sagittarius flake and better too.


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Turtle power - Stanage.

Holy crap. The first route I’ve been to look at in ages that I definitely won’t be going back to.

Desperate

teestub

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You probably just need to put in some energy systems work!  ;D

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Jesus Christ you’re like a bad rash. 😉

 

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