[Will Hunt]

Tu - Depot 50 board. A good scene. Did the thing I struggled on last time. Turns out I needed to crimp. Then did the Foley Warm Up pretty quickly. Then did the Throw To Horn on Austrian Mock and linked the first bit again. Will try this properly on the next session. Jim said I was looking better on the 50 - the slimy sycophant. It did feel as though something clicked with how to use momentum to link through the holds. A good session.

Sa - just had the morning. Almscliff again 
Thin skin from last week's 'orrible tip flapper. Got about half warmed up and pulled onto Stu's Left to check out the start moves. Proceeded to piss the start, struggle through the stand and had my right hand not quite right on the good flake, left hand on the good crimp, right foot on the face crimp... but totally failed to get my left foot on, so ended up failing at the very very very last 4b hurdle. Split skin to blood. Force 6 strop ensued.
Taped up and looked for something not requiring sensitivity on the left hand. Did Virgin into Crusis sit first go. Ended up on Top Cat Traverse which was fun to try. Did all the moves but not sure if I'll come back for that one.

[Nibile]

Brilliant title Will, only a bit early for those of us who like to train on Sundays as well.
 

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Le C-o-C Sportif! 

Yes, great title. 

[tomtom]

Brilliant title Will, only a bit early for those of us who like to train on Sundays as well.
 

Will obvs woke up early on Sunday and his mind swiftly turned to CoC.

[Nibile]

 

[Will Hunt]

It's centre parcs with the in-laws and nephews and nieces for me, so expect an update next week of ritualistic badminton humiliation, swimming pool skin woes and ultimate victory in the gilet wearing contest.

[highrepute]

Mon - One hour window so went out in the mist to see if Voyager dry. It was dry (someone had done it earlier in the day!) but I was cold and didn't feel like i had enough time/couldn't face carrying 3 pads in. Remergence instead, was good. Like this wall now I can do something on it. Had a few goes on Blind Fig and made some progress, but it's grim repeatedly pulling on the pebble for my sequence so quickly lost psyche. Repeated Blind Date. Pulled on some other holds went home.




Wed - Voyager IV - terrible session. Top wet from snow melt. Group of teenagers being distracting on the easy slab nearby. Conditions or skin much worse than expected. Moves felt very hard. Split a tip after circa 5 goes! Felt like I was really having to squeeze the holds a lot more than other sessions so something wasn't quite right. But I did make it to crux throw once so there is a positive. Little bit demotivated after this session, my holiday last week came at at a time when I had some good momentum. That momentum has stalled a bit so feels like the week off has taken me back a step. Also feels like it's gone past the fun early stages into the long slog now. Need to stay positive and hopefully the next session is better. Did the Remergence lip traverse (sweaty!) and felt moves on Blind Ali after.   

Thu - Works - with Liam. Did some good blocs in the Elite sector! Rest til monday when get back on Voyager.

Good week on reflection. Need to get back on Voyager asap before enthusiasm wanes...

[shark]

11.4-5 Average 158.5lb down 0.6lb

Low volume/Easy week

M. AM Physio - left shoulder

T.

W. Morning. Out to Gardoms. Marks wet and whilst other stuff climbable looked to be a bit of an effort. Short of time so went home and worked on new Oak style problems for an hour
Evening. Strength class class. Gruelling needless to say. (Deadlifts, overhead walking lunges, medicine ball throw down, weighted pull-ups prone row, dumbbell flys bench press)

T.

F. Soggy weather so went on board to work the two new hard Oak #2 and #3 problems. Psyched to get both ticked - thought it would take another 2 or 3 sessions but obviously went on them recovered and fresh. Still didn’t go down without a fight though. After spent time setting and working Oak #4 - a hard Gaston traverse.

S.Systems Board. Tried AnCap but got pumped into 3rd rep agin so stopped. Worrying abysmal level of endurance to be addressed

S.

Stoked to have done #2 and #3. Both feel a grade or so harder than the actual moves on the Oak. Oak #3 mimics starting at undercut by third bolt then crossing with LH under to an awkwardly angled undercut with front3 getting an intermediate out right building feet up then with super tight core drive for the horn (3 hand moves, 4 foot moves). Oak #2 mimics the moves up to this out to sidepull with LH up to small undercut with RH build feet up Gaston with LH build feet up and up to hard to hold high undercut pinch feet up again with difficulty and keeping really tight over with RH to sidepull/pinch (5 hand moves, 8? foot moves). Like the last set I’ll work towards doing them back to back. Hard to get perspective on grade especially as bloc board problems aren’t my forte but I’m going to stick my neck out and say I’m hoping they are real world 7B. Open invitation to anyone who wants to come and check them out...

Grit conditions look good so out with Nick tomorrow and weds. Will resume fingerboarding then off to Albarracin on Sunday for 8 days with Paul Reeve and Karl B

[nai]

Where are you heading tomorrow, Simon? Planning to get out but struggling for ideas.

[shark]

Where are you heading tomorrow, Simon? Planning to get out but struggling for ideas.

Need to be local as I have to be away at 1.30pm latest for 2pm dental appointment so going to try Blind Date

[nai]

It couldn't have been half an hour later?
Good luck, not my bag so I'll probably head elsewhere.

[shark]

Nick doesn’t have to shoot off

[gollum]

M - Early morning push session. Benches for doubles up to 90k, decline for 8s up to 70 and Incline dumbbells up to 30s. Finished off with some shoulder presses and despite not pushing it too hard, shoulder seems to have benefited from a week off. Then my RED 5k. I do think this is good for the soul.
Lunchtime; some steady TRX work.
Evening at the Depot. Warm up with steady campusing working up to 1-4-7, so two weeks ago wasn’t a fluke. Then did Project session on a couple of problems. Good links on easiest Zoo York replica and solid progress on Mock.
Then back to Campus Board and 6 sets of 3 x 1-3-5-7. Finished off with 1 on 2 off, which felt tough by that stage.
A good first day back although reading it now looks like quite a big day.

T - Pull day. Rack pulls for 170 x4, rows, weighted pull ups. Feeling pretty good.
Lunchtime 5 on 3 off. Very cold on hands work at around 6b/6b+ and still feels tough.
RED run with Mrs B in the evening, slip on ice and then take it very steady all the way around, trying to avoid an anxiety attack.

W - laid up with a cold, decide discretion is the better part of valour and decide to do nothing at all.

T - feeling much better but avoid weights in the morning. RED 5k on the treadmill at lunch and sweat a lot for that level of effort.
Feel well enough to go to Depot in the evening. Manage 2 Pinks that I hadn’t done before and then do 3 problems for 3 sets. One hard, one steady and one really not hard enough for this routine. Play about on some other stuff having fun and then finish with 1 on 2 off on part of the circuit board.

F - Max Hangs. 100% felt good for first three sets then started to struggle dropping to 8 and then 6 seconds. 8 sets at maximum feels like an odd trining thing tottery to and not sure I get it. Have never come across anything quite like it in all my years of training. I certainly wouldn’t try to do my 1RM for 8 sets in any other exercise. Might have to research this.

S - Push day. Bench press triples up to 90k. Felt solid and getting back in the groove. Decline and incline benches followed by some TRX work, including heaviest I haver ever had on the bar for decline. Finished with shoulder DB presses getting back up to 28k which is only about 75% of max but progress on dodgy shoulder.
RED on the treadmill and then again with Mrs B in the wind and the rain. Felt tough and loved it.
Finished with 95% Max Hangs, felt strong on these today and went for twelve seconds solidly on a couple of sets.

S - Pull day. Deadlifts up to 160k trying to rip the bar from the floor as quick as I could. OAP, solid effort. RH getting up towards +12k and LH I think just about doing Bodyweight which is definite improvement in the  shoulder. Finish off with some shoulder activations and abs work.
RED on treadmill.

A steady return to training after a week off, despite losing a day to a cold. Felt like a steady amount of volume.

[Nibile]

Mon - ab wheel static pause. Strong. Dumbbell complex, snatch pulls, static/dynamic pull ups.
Tue - rest.
Wed - PE high 15/30 x10 x2. Skin not good on second set, otherwise brilliant. Forearms really well. Clean and press x5, pull ups x5, x6.
Thu - pull ups x5, clean and press x5, x15 EMOM;
Fri -  rest.
Sat - goblet squat x5, bicep curl x10, x5. Lateral raises, high pulls, x5 x5. Clean and press with 10" top pause, x6 x5. Abs.
Sun - boxing bag 2' x6. Hill sprints. So happy about the sprints, despite my bad knee now I know that I can keep doing them, it only takes to take it a bit easier than before, and shift the movement slightly more on the glutes without too much knee flexion.
Also very happy about the power endurance routine.

[tomtom]

Looks like a great week Lore!

[cheque]

Rehab Diaries week Twenty-three

STG- leading HVS/ low 6s & carrying normal loads to the crag by the end of September

M- Ill

T- Fingerboard repeaters & pushups. Looked at last year's diary after- I did the same session just over a year ago and I'm stronger now. 

W- Should have been stair-treadmill day but, recovering from illness I decided that a total anaerobic thrashing wasn't a good idea. It was also the BMC Peak meet so I got some endurance training that way.

T- Filming/ location scouting. Carried my boom (~20kg) to the crag but needed help carrying it back. Ripped my down jacket ducking under a barbed wire fence in the afternoon- this is the sort of shit that happens when your back bulges out more than it used to. 

F- Rest.

S- Awesome Walls. Planned to do autobelays at the Foundry as usual but found that the place was packed out for a kid's comp (I made exactly the same mistake last year ) so relocated. I've never really liked AW- due to it being so big, when you're in the autobelay area any rock climbers present are miles away from you and your only company is kids and their non-climbing dads, foreign students with trainers on and lads from Rotherham in hire harnesses who call the holds "grabs". This has always meant that I'm grumpy, not psyched I don't rest enough between goes. 

However I'm not as grumpy and picky about things since my accident, it's good to not climb at the same wall all the time and the AW walls are all a little higher than their Foundry counterparts. I certainly found it quite hard and didn't do anything above 6b... They also have slacklines in the training area which I remembered were recommended by my physio- I used to be able to get across these OK but I see what he means as I now find it very hard to even do two steps in a row! Then I bumped into a partnerless friend and led an indoor route (grade 5 ) for the first time since my accident and then led another. Felt fine and another little milestone out of the way. So, all considered, I'll start going to AW more often.

S- AM- Weights day at the gym. Increased the kettlebell standing thing to 20kg (1/3 bodyweight) in each hand- interestingly the weak link in this seems to be my forearms! Also did wrist curls, lock off machine, chest press and leg press. Did >1/2 BW on my weak leg for the first time

PM- Passed up the chance to film due to going to a colleague's leaving do. Except what I was told was going to be something  "relaxed that people can drop into any time in the afternoon" was over by the time I showed up at 2:30. So I drove to Nottingham for nothing. 

Weird week. I'm past the point where everything is rehab now and I can do pretty much everything normally. This means that I really have to prioritise rehab stuff to regain strength/ give my nerve damage the best chance of recovering but it also means I'm distracted by other things- my girlfriend said "you're back in that mode where you only care about making your film" to me the other day which isn't exactly true but she has a point.

The other issue of being able to do normal stuff and feeling generally fine is that it emphasises how much my body has changed. Climbing in particular is so different from before now and getting out of my comfort zone on Saturday was a reminder that it won't be anything like "business as usual" when I hit the crags again no matter how well my training goes.

[tommytwotone]

As ever, effort Cheque - and nice one getting a lead done. Nowhere near the same thing but when I fractured by humerus years ago I remember my first problem back being a bit weird / not as much of a big deal as I'd thought it would be.


Goal - 3 x Font 7as outdoors by end of 2019


Nowt much this week.


M: Hip flexibility / mobility stretching
T: Hip felxibuility / mobility stretching
W: Works for Peak Pro session. My last one (now I've rehabbed my knacked shoulder), so was more of a coaching session. Climbed terribly, partly as I was rushing to get there so was a bit flustered.

Got put on something out of my comfort zone (the skips), and while attempting a high left heel rockover popped something in my hamstring / glute area. Tried to continue climbing on it after the coaching session but became clear it was pretty broken.

T: Nowt - Daughter in for a minor operation at LGI  F: Off work with daughter, nice day sitting about doing nowt and watching films together
S: Nowt
S: Nowt

Bit pissed about crocking myself - don't know whether the fact I'd been focusing on that exact area to try and improve flexibility, had I opened up some kind of weakness / introduced some post-stretching stiffness maybe?


Anyway, story of my life when it comes to training. One step forward, two back.

[duncan]

Mon - One hour window so went out in the mist to see if Voyager dry. It was dry (someone had done it earlier in the day!)

Sam Prior? Another for remus' list of UK men who have climbed hard things, though he was modestly calling it 8A+/8B. An ex-student who didn’t listen me about exercise specificity but has since seen the light! (reported a great example open-hand training not transferring to crimp strength)

STG: rehab./aerocap. thrice weekly. One finger strength activity.
MTG: a proper 7b+ this winter (? not looking likely), Colorado bucket list routes in May, a classic E5 this summer.
LTG: 5.13 at 60; a LH&F BHAG.

M - Shoulder strength (side-planks and dynamic variations thereof, single arm push-ups, crawls, reverse flys on rings).
T - Westway autobelay routes. 125m to 6a.
W - Shoulder strength. Shoulder stretches.
T - Westway autobelay routes. 150m to 6a+. Shoulder stretches.
F - 10km brisk walking along the Thames. Mantegna and Bellini exhibition with seankenny. Very good.
S - Shoulder strength. Shoulder stretches. Drove to Somerset for Mum’s 85th. 10km brisk walk in the rain and wind, not really climbing connies but the definitive UK seaside experience.
S - Drove back from Somerset. Visited sister in posh hospital. Die Walkure with the lad. He sat out act 2 (even dedicated Wagnerphiles admit this goes on a bit) but thought the Valkyries were “amazing”. Which they were. Shoulder strength: rings etc.

Elbow and shoulder both continuing to improve. Would have liked to have climbed on real rock this weekend as I was out of London but weather not ideal and more important things to do. Packing two left shoes didn’t help either. Totally crushing the sharkathon, quite tempted to see if I can keep this up for 12 months. Weight creeping down: 3kg above good, 5kg above ideal. 3 weeks to Siurana.

Plan: continue to increase mileage. Bouldering, cautiously, or fingerboard pick-ups.

[Nibile]

Looks like a great week Lore!

Cheers, it was a good week indeed.
Unfortunately I've been suffering from some lower back pain in the last two weeks, after firing off the holds of my system board and landing on an empy spot of my board mattress and hitting the ground. Otherwise I could have pushed a bit more.
Also, in the last two weeks I've eaten out at least 10 times, and that's not good at all. Or very good, depending on the point of view.
I am horribly torn between ditching the weights for pure climbing training and ditching the climbing for pure weight training.
 

[spidermonkey09]

M - rest. Skin pretty ruined but no major splits fortunately

T - Depot. Went quite well on the board considering heavily taped fingers which meant I was sliding off the wooden crimps. More of a consolidation session as only repeated things but started having a look at Tom's harder alternate finish to Mock, which bears even less resemblance to the actual route but climbs really well. Will was definitely looking better on the board, credit where credits due.

W - did some core and pressups in the evening. Absolutely desperate after not doing since before Christmas. Rewarded myself with a Mars Bar and probably undid a lot of good work!

T - Depot. Back on the board. Best session since I started climbing on it probably. Did the Mock alternate finish, repeated everything and also surprisingly did 'Bat Route Easy,' which also bears no resemblance to the crux on the route but essentially links all the undercuts on the board. Been trying this since before Christmas so good to finish that off. Think 36C had already done it second go weeks previously or would claim the FA...

F - rest. Few beers in the evening.

S - Almscliff. Was supposed to rain at 1 so took no food. Typically it didn't rain and was quite good conditions. Baltic on the lower boulders, much better on DWR. Started working the Exorcist start again, did DWR LH again to keep my eye in on it and had a look at Stu's; really hard. More drinking in the evening.

S - mint conditions. Went to Shipley Glen and finally got around to doing Red Baron. Hoovered up a few classics around that area. Manson's Wall felt the hardest of the lot. Millstone Grit was fun but started to chew my skin so bailed.

Good week again. Slightly different routine this week but should still manage a few nights at the Depot. Core tonight; shit!

[Coops_13]

83.2KG -> 83.1kg (same routine of loss in the week and re-gain at the weekend)

M:

T: Arch. Warmed up then 6 sets of max hangs up to +20kg. Finger still feeling tweaky so stoppped then, didn't feel too hard so could definitely have gone heavier with a healthy finger. Moved onto campus partials, the usual 1-4, 4-7 etc. then tried 1-6 a few times on big rungs. Got quite close a couple of times so keen to keep trying this. Then moved onto the 50 board where I set a new one-legged problem that was really good, so good I put it on the stokt app, hope people follow the one-legged rule...

W: A couple of sets of Antagonists and core

T: Arch. Doc said I could use R leg for climbing - couldn't fall on it. Stayed on the 50 all session working my way through problems on the new Stokt app. Managed csl's project which was really good among others. Good session

F: Anniversary with gf so 

S:

S: Arch. Climbing with gf, climbed problems to half height - progressed well on a green. Finished with a few problems on the 50

Had SPECT CT scans on my knee last Thursday, just seen doc for results. Fortunately no further damage to knee, just the initial bone bruising which is taking ages to heal. 8 weeks in and still a fair amount of pain - could take up to 1 year to fully recover. Good news is I can climb and do normal activity, starting physio to strengthen leg to support knee on Friday.

Weight loss hindered by social activity with the gf before her visa expires at the end of this week and she moves home. Will hit it hard for the final month leading up to Macedonia in March.

[jamesturnbull97]

Think 36C had already done it second go weeks previously or would claim the FA...

I did it the day I set it for you!

M. Surfing again, S-land was super fun even though it was only about a foot big it still peels perfectly down the reef.
T. Van work. Depot evening, back on the board. Plenty of work to do my circuit of 'easy' problems from the spring now seem rather hard. Stopped a move or two below th top on most problems as it seemed a bit high still to be jumping/falling off.
W. Easy circuit round Caley crag just on some 5's & 6's still being careful of the ankle. Still nice to be out on beautiful crisp day again.
T. Mtb around the chevin, a bit slick in places but good fun smashing some ruts and loam. Built a landing up a big drop I'd spied in the past so can hopefully incorporate it into a good trail. Depot board session in the evening again, failed on some more of my old circuit problems and tried alternative mock finish (Austrian Joke) with Jim a bit. Felt pretty tired really but was able to give my ankle much more of a testing, could jump off from the top of the board if I made sure I was landing carefully and didn't notice it much when standing on front on board footholds.
F.
S. Leeds Urban Bike Park session
S.

[36chambers]

Think 36C had already done it second go weeks previously or would claim the FA...

I did it the day I set it for you!

But I've already named it "36C is a mf-ing G", such a good name voids any potential retro-claim.

[andy_e]

Griffs Club is so last year. It's become Depot Board Club now.

[jamesturnbull97]

Think 36C had already done it second go weeks previously or would claim the FA...

I did it the day I set it for you!

But I've already named it "36C is a mf-ing G", such a good name voids any potential retro-claim.

It was never named so that can be gratefully accepted as long as it goes on the board page as above.

[jamesturnbull97]

Griffs Club is so last year. It's become Depot Board Club now.

More like Austrian Mock Club

[nai]

M -
Anston with tt, checked out Woodys for the first time - continued to hoover up king lines
Core
Leg/hip mobility

T - 2x10mins LI AeroCap
Shoulder Mob

W -Leg and shoulder mobility

Th
Bodyweight Conditioning exercises, some sporting my new Aldi weight vest, so not strictly bodyweight.
Bit of Core
Leg and shoulder mobility

Fr -
Thought about heading out but faffed around too much, ended up doing a short board session for the first time since the shoulder tear. Felt ok.
Lot of Core
Leg and shoulder mobility

S
Leg and shoulder mobility

S - hangover - nowt.  First day of the year I'd not managed to do anything

[tomtom]

M: Anston with Nai on way to Hull. Checked out Woodies for the first time. Despite a knacked right hamstring managed to do The Unnamed. Nai did it too including an alternative finish. Pissed about on Soul Crusher for a bit laughing at the amount of oomph needed for the first move - until a text to shark revealed there was a sneaky heel to make it fractionally easier. The wrong heel for me..



T:

We: Stopped at Plantation on the way back to Manchester. Dusting of snow - and only myself, a couple of likely lads from the Works who were wondering why 6's outdoors were so hard, and a man in yellow trousers filming himself doing laps on Green traverse from a camera balanced in a shoe on a tree :D

Anyway, it was mint. Warmed up on some stuff then set about working a sequence for me on Zippys. Great little session - managed to get it done in overlapping sections and worked out what to do with my heel/body position etc.. Green-traverse man came over to do some laps on Jerrys and it turned out it was Steve Mac. Had a great chat with him for 30 min or so in between our respective attempts/laps. What a nice bloke.

Th: Cold I felt coming on on Weds got worse. 3 hours in soft play with the lad.

Fri: Cold getting worse. Conditions sketchy - wife feeling ill too - snuck off for a couple of hours to the Depot. Its really weird climbing with a crocked hammy... outdoors you can really choose your problems not to strain them (e.g. Zippys - all left foot) but indoors I'd never realised how much I use my heels or toe down on problems. Meant I had to thug up (front on pull hard) lots of things. Got tired fast.

Sa: Feeling crap with cold.

Su: Still feeling crap with cold - but Wife told me to go climbing as I was lookign miserable. Turns out Lagers wife had said something similar - so met him at a blustery plantation for about 3... good times playing on easier problems but was Pysched (despite running nose) to get Zippys done. It was wired on Weds - it should go fast. Of course it didnt.. couldnt get my LF to stick where it was on weds - it was blustery and hard work keeping muscles warm - tweaked hammy again and something in my right tricep. Came close on two attempts... GRRRRR...

Finding it hard managing injuries - hamstring and mild tennis elbow rule out quite alot of things!

[cheque]

Fri: Cold getting worse. Conditions sketchy - wife feeling ill too - snuck off for a couple of hours to the Depot.

Seriously Tom, I’ve said it before but what the fuck is wrong with you people who respond to getting ill by going to a popular climbing wall and spreading your germs all over the holds?! 

[Bradders]

M - rest

T - quick gym recovery session at lunch, stretching and hamstring work. Depot in the evening. Tired from two long days at work and could not for the life of me decide what to do for the session. Ended up just trying yellows and getting burned off by a cripple (Turnbull) on the barrel yellow which felt like a really hard link.

W - rest

T - Depot. Had meant to go to Caley but 36C kindly confirmed it was wet. Was slow to get going, felt really tired. After warming up I started struggling on the barrel yellow again and then Turnip commented that I am a baffling climber given the disparity between what I've done/am trying outside and what I manage indoors. I think this fired me up enough that I managed the problem. Did a couple other easier yellows then went on the board. Did the more difficult stand start (LH wood RH wood undercling start, going straight to the 2nd higher triangle) to my ZY replica first go; never done that before. Then tried from the sit and dropped the penultimate move, i.e. having done all the hard climbing. Tried Steady Intro and linked the first two moves into the stand for the first time ever and re-did the stand. Briefly tried Gourmand-ease and still can't do the crux. Then tried 6 more yellows and did 4 of them.

F - rest

S - 30 mins of yoga in the morning. Max hangs in the afternoon. Pretty much did a pyramid style session working up to 2x 10s half crimp on the low BM2K edge w/ 10kg assistance, then back down from there.

S - Crookrise. Very good cons but really windy so freezing cold and difficult to stay warm. Bit of a disappointing session; other things ran over in the morning so didn't get up there till 3pm or so. Got about an hour on Sole Fusion in the end. Made it to the move to the lip every go feeling really steady through the start moves but couldn't quite hold the swing.

[Dolly]

M Core stuff at gym, shoulder stabilisation and some kettlebells obvs
T Beastmaker
W
T Good hard shed/board session
F Core stuff at gym plus crimpd antagonist muscles workouts and a few cheeky kettlebells
S Shed power. Started slowly but finished strongly
S Kettlebells, goblet squats, swings. Also managed to walk 14k around London  (including visiting the British museum for the first time) where Wednesday outsang plastic Chelsea for 90 minutes despite being outclassed on the pitch. Great day out with my lad

[tomtom]

Fri: Cold getting worse. Conditions sketchy - wife feeling ill too - snuck off for a couple of hours to the Depot.

Seriously Tom, I’ve said it before but what the fuck is wrong with you people who respond to getting ill by going to a popular climbing wall and spreading your germs all over the holds?! 

Blimey!

[highrepute]

Hard to get perspective on grade especially as bloc board problems aren’t my forte but I’m going to stick my neck out and say I’m hoping they are real world 7B. Open invitation to anyone who wants to come and check them out...

Very tempting...Although, you might want to give up climbing when I flash all your projects

This is my Blind Date sequence as mentioned earlier. Hope you had a good session.

[Will Hunt]

I do think if we had a whip round we could pay a crew of people to go round to Shark's board, flash everything and downgrade it all to 6B+. Money could be recouped by selling the video of Shark's despair as snuff.

[user deactivated]

Maybe there should be a downgrade of blind date without the gnarly rock up off the jug. Or at least a name change - blind date version 1.1 ‘Let’s hear from Our Graham’ skidmore in parenthesis

[joel182]

This is my Blind Date sequence as mentioned earlier. Hope you had a good session.

Ace - will have to go investigate what you're using for the right hand since I felt a bit short of reach only the normal sequence.

[shark]

Very tempting...Although, you might want to give up climbing when I flash all your projects

This is my Blind Date sequence as mentioned earlier. Hope you had a good session.

I’m used to it - I’ve been burnt off bouldering for over 30 years. You make your sequence look easy but I know it isn’t . I have got to the slots in the past the usual way but might have a dabble your way next time though using that pebble for anything more than an intermediate seems unlikely.

[jamesturnbull97]

Turnip commented that I am a baffling climber given the disparity between what I've done/am trying outside and what I manage indoors. 

Story of my life, much rather it be that way round though. Hard indoors is all relative for training anyway.
Just go and try Mock with Jim then you'll know what being burnt off is!

[Bradders]

Just go and try Mock with Jim then you'll know what being burnt off is!

Ah that's alright I burnt him off on one of his problems easily a couple of weeks ago. Although it sounds like he's improving 

[tim palmer]

Just go and try Mock with Jim then you'll know what being burnt off is!

Ah that's alright I burnt him off on one of his problems easily a couple of weeks ago. Although it sounds like he's improving 

Must have been reachy.

[tommytwotone]

Idea for next week's title - "Leeds Depot Woody Club"...

[andy_e]

Ahem...

Griffs Club is so last year. It's become Depot Board Club now.

More like Austrian Mock Club

[Bradders]

Ah that's alright I burnt him off on one of his problems easily a couple of weeks ago. Although it sounds like he's improving 

Must have been reachy.

I wouldn't know 

[highrepute]

Very tempting...Although, you might want to give up climbing when I flash all your projects

This is my Blind Date sequence as mentioned earlier. Hope you had a good session.

I’m used to it - I’ve been burnt off bouldering for over 30 years. You make your sequence look easy but I know it isn’t . I have got to the slots in the past the usual way but might have a dabble your way next time though using that pebble for anything more than an intermediate seems unlikely.

Don't get me wrong I'm not saying my way is easy - possibly after you're established on the sloper it is - pulling on that pebble is grim and best reserved for lightweight crimp lovers such as myself.

[gme]

Mon - rest
Tue- Small hold hangs from Crimpd. 6x 7 sec hangs on BM micro 10mms at BW 82kg. No thumbs half crimp. Changed tack from intending to do one arm hangs. The fact that i change locations a lot and the equipment on offer changes it wasnt practical. So changed to two hands on small holds. Also i think my shoulder stability holds back one arm hangs to a point where its not working fingers enough.
Stretching pm.
Wed- Limit bouldering at school. F**king freezing.
Thurs- Ancap triples 6 problems 3x each on Moonboard.
Fri - Rings/TRX tension and compression sessions from Crimpd app.
Sat - rest kids stuff. Stretching.Tired
Sun - was supposed to be a big day up at Eden but family drama got in the way and i ended up having a bit of a shit session in the garage. Lots of stretching and Small holds session on 10mms BW +5kg. plus a few weights but forced session due to day being ruined by family crap.

A really good week bar the sunday when it all went tits up. Spoke to the family at the beginning of the year about how i was going to be a bit of a selfish bastard for the next 6 months and they were cool with it. Had all gone to plan until now.

All sorted now so back to the plan. Need even more volume though, too much hanging and not enough moves.

Had three pints on saturday night as well for the 1st time this year. Pissed off with kids so went to the pub. Tasted nice though.

[shark]

Pissed off with kids so went to the pub.

Know how that feels         

[measles23]

M- nul
T- weather poo so went to new Macclesfield wall (substation) as recommended by some on here - enjoyed the setting and atmosphere-  ok session did 3 x V7/8s - Got Alison some Solutions for her birthday and now she’s started using her feet for a change..
W- nul
T- Strength Asylum: DL 8 sets inc 3 singles at 200, felt very solid. Core work - hyperextensions and side extensions, 3 sets single 1-armers
Stoke AW probs up to V7 then moonboard for a bit
F- nul
S- minus 10 in good connies - pleasant sociable session; close to repeating one of the 7C+ variants of zippy’s but took ages to remember how the moves work; did Lucien’s and Young American a few times, single catch and double.. I do love that place but struggled badly to find friction and kept dry-firing;  my knuckles are in tatters..
S- secondary fingerboard session 9 sets