[teestub]

(and Keen Youth) with their no pads...

Didn’t he give up on this after realising how artificial it was as a position?

[monkoffunk]

I still reckon I read more of that article than most leave voters read about Europe prior to the referendum. A fine and noble tradition we have of strong debate in the absence of informed views.

[petejh]

I still reckon I read more of that article than most leave voters read about Europe prior to the referendum. A fine and noble tradition we have of strong debate in the absence of informed views.

Fixed that for you.

Perhaps we should have a practice go at leaving.

[user deactivated]

(and Keen Youth) with their no pads...

Didn’t he give up on this after realising how artificial it was as a position?

I like the two pads max approach and sometimes will put a pad off to the side if I think it detracts from the experience I want. Pad parties are like a nightmare from the 7th level of climbing hell.

[Muenchener]

I don’t like bouldering at night because the ‘view’ is an important part of being out.

But that wouldn’t really be an ethical consideration.

Bouldering at night in forests is a big no-no over here because it frightens the wildlife. Which strikes me as a pretty important & valid ethical consideration involving actual ethics, as opposed to arbitrary rules regarding how we climb rocks.

[teestub]

I like the two pads max approach and sometimes will put a pad off to the side if I think it detracts from the experience I want. Pad parties are like a nightmare from the 7th level of climbing hell.

Is the pad sized standardised to a large Pod pad, so that you’d only be allowed 1.5 large Organic pads for example?

[SA Chris]

I've not read the article

I didn't read the article... and I certainly will never read any replies to my comment on it

Read about half, but alternative was even more boring.

I haven't read the article and I doubt I'll get around to it.

I haven't read the rest of this thread.

I have neither read the article, nor headpointed anything

I haven't read the article.

 

I'd like to state publicly I've not read it either, nor do I intend to.

[user deactivated]

I like the two pads max approach and sometimes will put a pad off to the side if I think it detracts from the experience I want. Pad parties are like a nightmare from the 7th level of climbing hell.

Is the pad sized standardised to a large Pod pad, so that you’d only be allowed 1.5 large Organic pads for example?

Two franklin pads max. Only bell ends own organic pads

[36chambers]

Pad parties are like a nightmare from the 7th level of climbing hell.

Were you once not invited to a pad party?

You're more than welcome to come along to my next one

[user deactivated]

No way man, unless there’s only 2 franklin pads involved. I’d actively choose lowballing in Lancashire over a pad party. The climbing equivalent of team sports 

[monkoffunk]

Fixed that for you.

Oh yeah, my mistake.

[Coops_13]

Pad parties are like a nightmare from the 7th level of climbing hell.

Were you once not invited to a pad party?

You're more than welcome to come along to my next one

Only bell ends own organic pads

An invite from the bell-end himself 

[joel182]

I like the two pads max approach and sometimes will put a pad off to the side if I think it detracts from the experience I want.

[countyyoungin]

(and Keen Youth) with their no pads...

Didn’t he give up on this after realising how artificial it was as a position?

I like the two pads max approach and sometimes will put a pad off to the side if I think it detracts from the experience I want. Pad parties are like a nightmare from the 7th level of climbing hell.

how many pads are needed to party?

[user deactivated]

It’s the combination of pads and bellends that makes the party. But as a guesstimate more than 3 and less than 7. Usually involves platforms of some kind and the expression send train.

[spidermonkey09]

It’s the combination of pads and bellends that makes the party. But as a guesstimate more than 3 and less than 7. Usually involves platforms of some kind and the expression send train.

What's more than 7? A pad orgy?

[36chambers]

It’s the combination of pads and bellends that makes the party. But as a guesstimate more than 3 and less than 7. Usually involves platforms of some kind and the expression send train.

What's more than 7? A pad orgy?

indoor climbing?

[spidermonkey09]

Seven pads under the Great Flake does not an indoor problem make!

[countyyoungin]

Send train bellends is a phrase I’d like to see more

[tomtom]

Most send trains I’ve been involved with are decidedly more northern rail than orient express 😃

Anyhoo.. Outside of climbing vids I’ve never heard the phrase used non ironically..

[user deactivated]

It’s the combination of pads and bellends that makes the party. But as a guesstimate more than 3 and less than 7. Usually involves platforms of some kind and the expression send train.

What's more than 7? A pad orgy?

A sausage fest

[Fiend]

Maybe Fiend should have written an article about why he thinks headpointing is facile. I'd read it.

Actually my planned article was going to be a fairly dry and theoretically uncontroversial exposition of all the tactics available to facilitate onsighting (and by implication avoid headpointing).

I forgot to mention before that I am aware that sometimes I post things that will unfortunately get a hostile / hysterical response, almost always I am posting DESPITE that, NOT because of that. Something which has flown so far above Alan's head it's almost in orbit.

P.S. Also it's pretty obvious that you can read the article title and intro and discover that amazingly the article about headpointing is an article about headpointing and criticise it on that basis. Unless the rest of the mighty tome contains lots of progressive ethical pointers and using headpointing as a new route / early repeat last resort in which case I apologise to all concerned apart from whomever wrote the article title and intro.





Anyway, back to the real issue "send train bellends"....

Last March I went down tradding in the Peak on the most perfect crisp bone dry winter grit day imaginable - everything form Black Rocks to Wimbery would have been parched and arid. Doing routes above the Plantation, we had a grandstand  view of many roaming packs of send train bellends. Taking advantage of the immaculate weather and large teams with even larger numbers of pads, were they ground-upping Silk, highballing Fairy Groove, working the start of Unfamiliar?? Were they fuck.....instead carpetting the ground beneath Captain Hook and Zippies. More pads beneath those than actual moves on the problems.... Seven pads beneath Green Traverse does not a good use of large teams make.

Conversely I was trying some highball at Scout Hut the other month with 4 pads down and even though it wasn't hard we were both still too scared to go for the move and would have happily welcomed the extra 3 pads. Or in my case, a decent cam by my knees

P.S.: Dan I love your grumpiness about the pad parties btw.

P.P.S. Yeah James gave up the no pads approach in the end. Artificial?? I'm not sure. The whole transformation of micro-routes into highballs was still fairly new, it's been a while since we've have such a protection/equipment transformation (like cams, sticky rubber, RPs, chalk) so it might not have been clear to him that highballing really would take over as the default, and the old way of routes-as-routes made more sense at the time.

[Will Hunt]

Conversely I was trying some highball at Scout Hut the other month with 4 pads down

So you admit it. YOU'RE a send train-bellend too!?

And you went to Stanage on a day when you could have been at Wimberry or whatever counts as esoteric in the Peak? I'd thought more of you, Fiend.

[Fiend]

I would have been a send train bellend if there had been any sending or the train had more than two carriages! As it was, just a bellend....


Also, I went to Stanage because it's a 4.5 hour drive and needed something convenient and reliable. As my mate Duncan Disorderly said when he popped in to take the piss out of me later, it was like half The Works were at the Plantation - as people who lived 4.5 miles away the onus might be on them to be a bit more explorative (just as if someone had travelled from Sheff to Dumby on a perfect spring weekend and could rightly query why I was loitering there rather than exploring Trossachs esoterica....). Anyway the point was a bit less about venue and more about lowball carpetting. There wasn't even anyone on Honorary Caley which was drier than a nun's snatch and one of the best problems there.

[ferret]

Bellends not withstanding, carpets of pads help prevent erosion to both the rock and the ground around it